NATURAL, HOT, LIQUID, DEATH!

[ttystikk]

I read some shit when I was reading all about RAs that the grape people were doing that exact same thing, dunking the rootball in 120something degree water, may have stated 125 degrees. They claimed a remarkable degree of effectiveness too.

Thanks for the data-rich observations Cap.

I'll second that; data rich observations are far more useful than mere anecdotal kind.

 

[sox]

Yo Cap, mad respect that u answered downwithdirts question honestly and swiftly. Alot of peeps would have lied or dodged the question jus to save face. I salute u dude! U seem to be bout the truth not the image.
Ive been following this thread now with great intrest due to the fact i have had RAs a few times now. I go ape shit on them with merit 75 but b4 that i go contact killer with spectrizide as a long 12 hr dunk, and i spry them down with a foliar of spec aswell. I was really liking the hot water bath as a contact killer idea, sucks it didnt pan out. The other thing i havent metioned is after i treat with spectricide soak ( contact killer) then Merit75(systemic) i follow up with excit-r (pyrythium) with my feeds,works nice in the rez.
U might be wondering why i havent used ur bennies with a regime like that, so heres why; its actually a question for u. I also pretreat plants with eagle 20 (a systemic fungicide) and as we all kno shit is strong. If i mix ur bennies(fungus based) it would wipe them out with the eagle20 thus negating their effectiveness correct?

Confu...

Hey,
Have you or anyone else using eagle 20 noticed the hash that is made from those plants treated tastes like burnt rubber?
About 3 years ago i was making a shit ton of water hash, like an lb a day, sometimes way more when we were doing multiple runs... And we noticed that some of the trim would make hash that would taste like burnt tires, it would be full melt fire fire, it would just taste like complete shit...we THOUGHT we tracked it down and THOUGHT it was because of the use of eagle 20 but couldnt ever really get to the bottom of it. i guess alot of old school growers use the shit..

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
-Sox

 

[Confuten1]

Hey,
Have you or anyone else using eagle 20 noticed the hash that is made from those plants treated tastes like burnt rubber?
About 3 years ago i was making a shit ton of water hash, like an lb a day, sometimes way more when we were doing multiple runs... And we noticed that some of the trim would make hash that would taste like burnt tires, it would be full melt fire fire, it would just taste like complete shit...we THOUGHT we tracked it down and THOUGHT it was because of the use of eagle 20 but couldnt ever really get to the bottom of it. i guess alot of old school growers use the shit..

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
-Sox

Wow, Only with bubble not bho though. I always thought it was the bubble bags leaching some fibers from the bag( not the screens but the bags themselves) now im curious. And its not all the time, but then again i dont every round with eagle 20 either.
Confu..???

 

[Capulator]

Yo Cap, mad respect that u answered downwithdirts question honestly and swiftly. Alot of peeps would have lied or dodged the question jus to save face. I salute u dude! U seem to be bout the truth not the image.
Ive been following this thread now with great intrest due to the fact i have had RAs a few times now. I go ape shit on them with merit 75 but b4 that i go contact killer with spectrizide as a long 12 hr dunk, and i spry them down with a foliar of spec aswell. I was really liking the hot water bath as a contact killer idea, sucks it didnt pan out. The other thing i havent metioned is after i treat with spectricide soak ( contact killer) then Merit75(systemic) i follow up with excit-r (pyrythium) with my feeds,works nice in the rez.
U might be wondering why i havent used ur bennies with a regime like that, so heres why; its actually a question for u. I also pretreat plants with eagle 20 (a systemic fungicide) and as we all kno shit is strong. If i mix ur bennies(fungus based) it would wipe them out with the eagle20 thus negating their effectiveness correct?

Confu...

I don't know for sure if the e20 would kill the specific fungi in my packs, since it is fungi specific. However, I do not recommend using both together. Perhaps using the bennies at week 3 or so of flower to finish the girls off as the e20 wears off. I really don't have the scientific means to study the correlation.

 

[Confuten1]

^^^ since i treat them with e 20 when i go from starter cubes to solo cups(very early on) i was thinkin of adding ur bennies into the chow mix the next time i size up in containers. But becuzz its systemic, im wondering if it would kill them. i thought e20 killed all fungus , i guess i got some reading to do. thnx cap!

Confu

 

[sox]

Wow, Only with bubble not bho though. I always thought it was the bubble bags leaching some fibers from the bag( not the screens but the bags themselves) now im curious. And its not all the time, but then again i dont every round with eagle 20 either.
Confu..???

Holy Crap! no way!! dude we have been trying to figure this out for so long...so its the eagle20 then?!?

Its the only thing we could connect it to, cuz we had 3 different trim sources that all the water hash was coming out burnt rubber tasting...the other people we got trim from it was normal tasting...and so we figured it had to be some kind of chem on the plants...the only thing they were all using that was the same was eagle20.

 

[Confuten1]

Holy Crap! no way!! dude we have been trying to figure this out for so long...so its the eagle20 then?!?

Its the only thing we could connect it to, cuz we had 3 different trim sources that all the water hash was coming out burnt rubber tasting...the other people we got trim from it was normal tasting...and so we figured it had to be some kind of chem on the plants...the only thing they were all using that was the same was eagle20.

???, its deff worth lookin into further, wow!!

Confu...

 

[sox]

its a beautiful day.
thats been buggin me for 3 years...

 

[Capulator]

^^^ since i treat them with e 20 when i go from starter cubes to solo cups(very early on) i was thinkin of adding ur bennies into the chow mix the next time i size up in containers. But becuzz its systemic, im wondering if it would kill them. i thought e20 killed all fungus , i guess i got some reading to do. thnx cap!

Confu

I would wait until like week 2 or 3 of flower. Are you in soil?

 

[Confuten1]

Good idea, im in coco/ chow mix
Confu..

 

[urbanite420]

For the heads interested hit up google scholar with" plant heatshock proteins"

 

[Freek1]

Have a strain of root aphids/phyloxerra that has laughed at every treatment...Met 52, Caps imidacloprid I could go on. Used the hot water treatment over the stove with tempetures from 125-130 submerging the whole pot. Results not a single crawler left . Lost 2 out of 7 plants the rest are still recovering..no bugs but the temps were a bit high for the plants.
Treated my clone area yesterday after purchasing a Sous Vide to regulate temps better...all plants look a little shocked but not nearly as bad. Dropped the water temp to 120 and used a cold water bath after treatment (75 degrees).
Don't forget the cold water bath because the plants are still cooking after the dip unless you lower the tempeture.
Stay tuned I will update the results as far as survival of plants in a week.
From what I have researched they only need to be bought up to 115 degrees for 60 seconds to kill all stages.

 

[Freek1]

Have a strain of root aphids/phyloxerra that has laughed at every treatment...Met 52, Caps imidacloprid I could go on. Used the hot water treatment over the stove with tempetures from 125-130 submerging the whole pot. Results not a single crawler left . Lost 2 out of 7 plants the rest are still recovering..no bugs but the temps were a bit high for the plants.
Treated my clone area yesterday after purchasing a Sous Vide to regulate temps better...all plants look a little shocked but not nearly as bad. Dropped the water temp to 120 and used a cold water bath after treatment (75 degrees).
Don't forget the cold water bath because the plants are still cooking after the dip unless you lower the tempeture.
Stay tuned I will update the results as far as survival of plants in a week.
From what I have researched they only need to be bought up to 115 degrees for 60 seconds to kill all stages.

Day 2, the clones are recovering. No leaf loss but a bit of shock. We are finding that cannabis roots are very heat sensitive as other plants seem to deal with tempetures better.
I treated these with a 3 minute exposure at 120 I think the exposure time could be shorter with smaller pots such as these as they all reached 115 at the rootball in a minute . If I have to repeat this I think I will drop 1 minute of heat exposure .
It seems that the most infested plants exhibit the most shock, which means look for the clues before the infestation is severe. The biggest clue my plants give me is purple stalks on new growth.

 

[Freek1]

Day 2, the clones are recovering. No leaf loss but a bit of shock. We are finding that cannabis roots are very heat sensitive as other plants seem to deal with tempetures better.
I treated these with a 3 minute exposure at 120 I think the exposure time could be shorter with smaller pots such as these as they all reached 115 at the rootball in a minute . If I have to repeat this I think I will drop 1 minute of heat exposure .
It seems that the most infested plants exhibit the most shock, which means look for the clues before the infestation is severe. The biggest clue my plants give me is purple stalks on new growth.

 

[Freek1]

Update, the plants were recovering nicely...however due to me being an idiot I had to redo the process! I mistakenly thought it would be ok to put some spent plant in my worm compost bin, my thinking was if there are aphids they wouldn't live where there are no roots...absolutely fucking wrong , they populated an produced flyers and I am sure you can figure the rest out. Everything is being treated again!

 

[Freek1]

Update, the plants were recovering nicely...however due to me being an idiot I had to redo the process! I mistakenly thought it would be ok to put some spent plant in my worm compost bin, my thinking was if there are aphids they wouldn't live where there are no roots...absolutely fucking wrong , they populated an produced flyers and I am sure you can figure the rest out. Everything is being treated again!

 

[Freek1]

My observations , this is a great knockdown method. However the same problem with this or any approach is the failure to realize how the colonize.
This method works perfectly on lightly infected plants with almost no recovery time however when plants are heavily infected....colonized the situation with the root is that all the dead dying roots are covered with aphid "wax" ... Just imagine it raining on a thatch hut. Yes these fuckers have built a shelter around your root ball.
With this in mind I think the first approach should be an insecticidal soap soak PHd ....definitely PHd otherwise it will cook the roots and then completely flushed after a good soak, it is the only method that removes the wax thatch hut root habitat that they have created.

 

[Freek1]

My observations , this is a great knockdown method. However the same problem with this or any approach is the failure to realize how the colonize.
This method works perfectly on lightly infected plants with almost no recovery time however when plants are heavily infected....colonized the situation with the root is that all the dead dying roots are covered with aphid "wax" ... Just imagine it raining on a thatch hut. Yes these fuckers have built a shelter around your root ball.
With this in mind I think the first approach should be an insecticidal soap soak PHd ....definitely PHd otherwise it will cook the roots and then completely flushed after a good soak, it is the only method that removes the wax thatch hut root habitat that they have created.

 

[Freek1]

So finally got rid of them all I think, the hot water method works well for lightly infested plants, however the problem with the rootball dome makes it hard to eradicate them with a high population.
Eventually I hit them with a Acephate dunk didn't see even on moving . If you do use acephate I highly recommend you leach your soil after a few days because your leaves will fry.
I wasn't 100 percent confident so on top of that i gave them a 30 min soak in a ph balance orange oil insectidal soap which I leached from the soil immediately . This was followed up by a Acephate spray of all my growing areas along with a steam treatment from on of those clothing steamers.
It has been a week and i have taken core samples from all surviving plants (lost like 4 of 14) everything is slowly recovering and anything that was in early flower I put back in veg due to leaf loss.
Time will only tell but so far so good, no sign of those fuckers anywhere.

 

[Freek1]

So finally got rid of them all I think, the hot water method works well for lightly infested plants, however the problem with the rootball dome makes it hard to eradicate them with a high population.
Eventually I hit them with a Acephate dunk didn't see even on moving . If you do use acephate I highly recommend you leach your soil after a few days because your leaves will fry.
I wasn't 100 percent confident so on top of that i gave them a 30 min soak in a ph balance orange oil insectidal soap which I leached from the soil immediately . This was followed up by a Acephate spray of all my growing areas along with a steam treatment from on of those clothing steamers.
It has been a week and i have taken core samples from all surviving plants (lost like 4 of 14) everything is slowly recovering and anything that was in early flower I put back in veg due to leaf loss.
Time will only tell but so far so good, no sign of those fuckers anywhere.

Ok, looks like I have reached or am very near the point of erradication. The hot water treatment was not a complete success because of the waxed root ball issue. If you use this method I recommend manually penetrating the root ball for heat penetration and or a insecticidal soap to help dissolve the aphid wax (rinse the soap out after a 30 minute soak or lose the plant) . I had my water tempeture to 125 and after 5 minutes I could only get the center root ball to about 105 degrees and at this temepeture you are damaging the roots on the perimeter...not good.

Recommended procedure

1) Start with a orange oil insecticidal soap soak for 30 min , for heavily infested plants it's probably better to take clones and through them out or at the minimum manually penetrate root ball before any treatment.

2)3 days later Acephate dunk 1 teaspoon per gallon , this is a contact killer let them sit in it for at least 30 min...Flush this stuff out after 3 hours, the roots do not like it.

3)3 Days later apply a earthworm casting tea with caps and bennies I brew mine for 3 days to enhance the chinitase enzyme which eats away at there outer shell , also this is taken up by the plant and increase it's chitinase content 5 fold. If there are survivors which will be likely they will start making flyers and wander to the outside of the plant shortly after this. They definitely won't like the soil or your plants as much.
4) 3 Days later Imid root drench

5) 3 days later Imid root drench

6) 3 days later earthworm casting tea with caps and bennies.

So far only one formerly heavily infested plant had a crawler , took it out and gave it another Acephate dunk, out of 12 plants thats not bad....

One more bit of advice...use drip catch trays perferably black to make it more difficult for the slow moving fucker to go from plant to plant ...also you will be able to spot wanderers a lot easier. Inspect , inspect , inspect the roots...if you have any suspicion about root or leaf growth never give the benefit of the doubt...treat the plant!



Good luck, everything is in bloom again, I will update this towards the end of this grow...