Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

BCrocker said:

My room is at 50 all the time. I think i need a large dehumid. Only have two whirlpool 70 pint units. Bump on this question and any dehumid referrals?

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f your relative humidity stays at or near 50%, I'd say it's fine. I run my humidity just a bit higher at 60%, then drop it near the end of the run, seems to encourage a few more resin crystals that way.

I run a frigidaire 70 pint dehuey, and other than having to dump the res. twice a day it's fine. Thinkin' of hooking my spare pump switch up to a tub and a pump, so it will take care of things by itself...

that usually happens to me when my rh is out of wack(too low) and my plants get stressed. Especially when i xfer from veg room to flower. The curled parts will die off and turn yellow but the rest will be fine as long as your other variables arent out of wack.... I cut the curled parts off now.....

BCrocker said:

My room is at 50 all the time. I think i need a large dehumid. Only have two whirlpool 70 pint units. Bump on this question and any dehumid referrals?

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that would be a shame to lower your humidity, the stomata, they are the motor for the plant process Co2, at lower humidity levels they close up and don't run efficiently, higher is better 60%+

Strange growth

Plants are about 12" tall and were looking great up until a few days ago when they started to exhibit very serrated and contorted leaves. I've bumped the EC from .5 to .8 in an attempt to cure this deficiency. I'm not sure if I am better off lowering the EC to encourage water uptake or leaving it at .8 to ensure adequate nutrients.

Keep in mind that by encouraging water uptake (by lowering EC) you're increasing nutrient availability...as the plants more easily uptake the H2O they will speed up metabolically and in turn facilitate better nutrient absorption/uptake.

This will likely remedy your nutritional issues. Plants that size should likely be needing no more than 0.5 to produce healthy growth, assuming you're using a well balanced nutrient.

Week two of veg. EC 1.3. Advanced Sensi, H2O2, Dyna gro mag pro, Zone. Ran Bleach through at the beginning before refilling and dropping the plants in. Why am I getting brown slimy roots???? These are pics after cutting out the worst of it and running H202 for a few days.





Anybody have any bright ideas?

Onespark said:

Week two of veg. EC 1.3. Advanced Sensi, H2O2, Dyna gro mag pro, Zone. Ran Bleach through at the beginning before refilling and dropping the plants in. Why am I getting brown slimy roots???? These are pics after cutting out the worst of it and running H202 for a few days.

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Anybody have any bright ideas?

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Not to be a broken record but drop your EC...at 2 weeks into veg your plants would be doing well 0.5-0.7. Keeping roots of young plants emersed in solution that is too high equates to a slow burn of the root epidermis and reduced water uptake...as stated above. Also be careful during pH adjustments and nute add backs if you go that route.

We've also had numerous reports over the past years of AN Sensi being problematic in the UC. Of which, when nute was changed to something more compatible (DM, Canna Aqua, H&G, Ionic) plant/root health immediately improved. Though you'd still need to reduce the concentration even with those nutes.

Disclaimer....we've also had some report having good results with AN Sensi, just by far the minority. But of those that did experience success they ran the EC much lower, not approaching 1.3 until well into bloom.

UCHQ said:

Not to be a broken record but drop your EC...at 2 weeks into veg your plants would be doing well 0.5-0.7. Keeping roots of young plants emersed in solution that is too high equates to a slow burn of the root epidermis and reduced water uptake...as stated above. Also be careful during pH adjustments and nute add backs if you go that route.

We've also had numerous reports over the past years of AN Sensi being problematic in the UC. Of which, when nute was changed to something more compatible (DM, Canna Aqua, H&G, Ionic) plant/root health immediately improved. Though you'd still need to reduce the concentration even with those nutes.

Disclaimer....we've also had some report having good results with AN Sensi, just by far the minority. But of those that did experience success they ran the EC much lower, not approaching 1.3 until well into bloom.

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If the EC was too high the new roots would not be white and healthy right?
I think this is some brown algae. It's like snot. Roots are rotting out. Leaf health is fine, everything is green. No deficiencies.




The leaf centers are going a little light today but thats the extent of it up top.
Everything rootwise is slimy and it moved in fast. I have been careful to not overdo it with the EC. I was thinking it happened when the roots were exposed on the flood table.
Let me give you a little more info. They started on a flood table with top drip over a month ago. They have been in the UC for two weeks. When they hit 1.0 EC they almost doubled in size overnight. When I dropped them in they all had nice big white root systems. I am actually at 1.1 right now not 1.3 (my fault). I will change it out and back it off to see if that helps. AN has worked for me but I am ready to move on anyway so I will do that too. How do you feel about the tea? I am thinking of switching to a brew of Aqua shield/ZHO/EWC and molasses immediately. What you think about all of that jabber?

It's typically necessary to drop the EC when going from drip or E&F into a UC....I say this from countless conversations and experience over the years. Generally a drop of up to 50% is necessary to acct. for the prolonged exposure of the roots in the nute solution.

Though the roots emerge healthy, they are slowly burned (not unlike your skin when exposed to intense sun) and the damage will increase or persist if the exposure continues. Just trust in the lower EC and you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at how well the plants can do with less....it's why water culture works so well.

Also, EWC can work great....but will def work best at lower EC so as the minerals salts don't discourage beneficial microbial growth. Remember that pathogenic microbes are more likely to thrive in high EC than beneficial microbes which is another reason to error towards less.

UCHQ said:

It's typically necessary to drop the EC when going from drip or E&F into a UC....I say this from countless conversations and experience over the years. Generally a drop of up to 50% is necessary to acct. for the prolonged exposure of the roots in the nute solution.

Though the roots emerge healthy, they are slowly burned (not unlike your skin when exposed to intense sun) and the damage will increase or persist if the exposure continues. Just trust in the lower EC and you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at how well the plants can do with less....it's why water culture works so well.

Also, EWC can work great....but will def work best at lower EC so as the minerals salts don't discourage beneficial microbial growth. Remember that pathogenic microbes are more likely to thrive in high EC than beneficial microbes which is another reason to error towards less.

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So do you think 1.1 is too high right now? I want to flip these ASAP but the brown yucky is still growing.

Listen to UCHQ.

Yes, 1.1 is too high.

Even if the plants could take it, a root system that damaged will never be able to use it.

Much thanks guys. Trying lower EC. My EC 1.1 is about 600 PPM? Confused me. Looks like I got ahead of myself here. The tea is brewing and I will be rinsing all roots and soaking in H2O2 for a day...

I need to find a humidifier for my room, I have a 13 gal system now but I need at least twice that. Any suggestions would be helpful. I can buy another but space is valuable in the room.

woodsmaneh said:

I need to find a humidifier for my room, I have a 13 gal system now but I need at least twice that. Any suggestions would be helpful. I can buy another but space is valuable in the room.

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What worked best for me to keep humidity stable was to slow down the rate of air turnover. If air is cycling through the room too quickly, humidity never has a chance to build up.

I have a sealed room and it is 13 x 13 x 9 so 1500 cubic feet. Was no problem till I put another 4 1000w in the room for a total of 8.

I think one solution would be to seal the lighting system and run air or water cooling for the lights. The air would need to be separated from the grow room environment air so you end up with a sealed grow room with a sealed light system within the grow room.

Cheers!

FrostyTheGroMan said:

Hey UCHQ, I just want to start off by saying thank you to all the knowledge and support you provide your customers!! You guys make an awesome product n I just want you guys to know that I am one happy customer!!

With that said, my question has to do with the change in lighting recommendations y'all have for the Evo systems. When i first bought the 18 site Evo, the recommended lighting was 10 1000's, now it's changed to 10 600's.... Is there a reason for why you guys changed your recommendations from 1000's to 600's??

Been thinking about purchasing another 12 site Evo and was wondering what the optimum lighting conditions would be? 6 1000's? 4 1000's? or 6 600's?

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THE MORE LIGHT THE BETTER :sun AS MUCH AS YOU CAN AFORD MY FRIEND

I have a question about DM Zone strength. I'm in week 3 veg and going to bump up ppm's 20%. I was told to add 100% of the zone (1ml/gal) to pre-existing ppm's (no top-off rez), so in a 100 gal system I'm adding 100ml of zone this week.

1) Won't this up the ppm's well over the 20% a week?
2) Will this precipitate out as flakes in my system? Does this matter?

Ok guys. I rinsed all my roots down really good with H2O2. Then ran H2O2 in the system for a day. Things seem to be improving. I am replacing the res at .5 EC. New root growth looks pretty good today.


Adding my bennies today as well.

Brewed up tea for 48 hours. This will be my first adventures outside the sterile system. Thanks again for the help, I was forgetting the basics but I think I got it in time. Glad your all willing to address the same topic over and over without making me feel an stupider than I did already. :mmm

Question: Should I raise my chiller temp for the beasties? It's at 68 now but it seems the bennies may enjoy something in the low 70's.

Onespark said:

Ok guys. I rinsed all my roots down really good with H2O2. Then ran H2O2 in the system for a day. Things seem to be improving. I am replacing the res at .5 EC. New root growth looks pretty good today.

Adding my bennies today as well.

Brewed up tea for 48 hours. This will be my first adventures outside the sterile system. Thanks again for the help, I was forgetting the basics but I think I got it in time. Glad your all willing to address the same topic over and over without making me feel an stupider than I did already. :mmm

Question: Should I raise my chiller temp for the beasties? It's at 68 now but it seems the bennies may enjoy something in the low 70's.

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Things are definitely looking up. Looks like you caught the rot before it got too far, which is essential- and not easy to do, so props for that!

Start with a low EC and bring it up slowly, so your roots can handle it.

Be certain all the H2O2 is out of the system before addig any beneficial microbes, as the H2O2 will kill all microbes indiscriminately.

Remember that the colder your water is, the MORE dissolved oxygen it can hold in solution. This is good for beneficials and bad for rot, slime and pythium. Keep your res. temps where they are, or even a bit lower. Won't hurt a thing. I actually run mine at 64 with good results.

And one more thing; don't put the molasses or any other microbe food in the hydro water- it will feed everything in there, which could well include the nasty microbes you're trying to get rid of!