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Hello farmers,
New to the indoor grow. Have a 4x4 tent with some home built- cob full spectrum lights. Results have been low power. Need a little more info.
end of cycle
Can you take photos of the plant under natural light? Without seeing that, it looks overfed, maybe the soil kept too wet too.

What is the soil? What are you feeding (how much). What water (tap, ro? if tap, do you know the TDS/ppm?). Be as detailed as possible.
Looks overfed to me. At that stage of growth, salt-buildup in the soil is common, which acidifies the soil and makes overfeeding worse (locking out the nutrients, causing them to buildup faster).

If you can provide more details about the 1) soil, 2) what you've been feeding, how much of each bottle, 3) the water (ro or tap, if tap what the TDS/ppm is), 4) how you water (do you get substantial runoff? 10% or more. That can reduce the risk of overfeeding turning into salt-buildup and lockout -- which you might have going on). 5) Do you have a PPM meter? If so, can you measure the runoff next time?
8 oz of water every other day. Quarter teaspoon per gal of nutrients
(I assume that's 8oz per container). That doesn't sound like enough water to produce runoff.

Is that 1/4 tsp/gal from just the MaxiBloom? The feed chart calls for 3/4 tsp/gal. So, you're probably not overfeeding. But, that NPK ratio (1-3-2.9) cuts N quite a bit. That's almost "bloom booster" by my standards. I only do reduce N (as a proportion) to ratio 1-2-1.8 around the end of flower. But, your plant doesn't look N-deficient. Just overfed (to me).

Have you been feeding that amount for awhile? Because, that's pretty low PPM (without knowing how much 1/4 tsp weighs). I assume it's about 0.875g. That's 100ppm

Does the soil have a name? Maybe that's the problem. Maybe it was too hot, and feeding on top of it. (And, if you're not getting runoff, that could contribute to a problem.).
You know your stuff. soil is Organic potting mix. I never have any runoff. I only give 1 8 oz glass of water in a 3 gal. Pot. Every other day.
I did mess up the chems. I used 1 teaspoon per gal. In veg. For a while. I switched to bloom 2 weeks after I started to flower. Had 8 plants every 1 reacted different.
soil is Organic potting mix. I never have any runoff. I only give 1 8 oz glass of water in a 3 gal. Pot. Every other day.
I did mess up the chems. I used 1 teaspoon per gal. In veg. For a while. I switched to bloom 2 weeks after I started to flower. Had 8 plants every 1 reacted different.
Is that MiracleGro? They make 2-3 different "Organic" potting mixes. If you could be very specific, a link to the actual product, the specific name on the bag. (Their "Organic Choice", gold and white bag, isn't too hot at 0.10-0.5-0.05. I don't think that would be a problem. I've seen people who say it's what they use for every grow. But, there's a OC "potting soil" which is different. And a "performance organic." So, if you could be specific, it would help.

If you used 1 tsp/gal of MaxiGrow through the entire veg, that could be the problem. That's still not very strong (if 1 tsp = 3.5g). But, maybe the way you watered contributed to it.

1 cup of water for a 3gal container doesn't sound right. It sounds like you've been treating it like a houseplant, giving it sips of water every day (or, as you said, every other day). You could have dry parts of the soil, and kept other parts too constantly wet. You should pour (slowly) enough volume to get 10% runoff (as a percentage of what you pour in). Pour around the perimeter, and into the stalk. Even coverage. Even do it in two stages to allow for maximum saturation. Pour for slight runoff. Wait a couple minutes, pour the rest for 10%. In a 3gal container, that should be a quart (or two) of solution poured in.

So, you might continue feeding 1/4tsp/gal (which is pretty weak), and pour enough for 20% runoff for awhile, flush it out a little at a time. You could even do 100% runoff once, then each watering after should be 10-20% runoff.

I would go back to the MaxiGro, or mix 1/8tsp of each to get a more moderate 1-1.33-1.87 NPK ratio.
It's really not hard to grow. Typically the problems are self-inflicted (not watering with enough volume; watering too frequently, keeping the soil too wet all the time; overfeeding; cutting N too soon with "bloom" nutrients, which really aren't necessary. It would be better to grow entirely with a ratio 1-1-1 all the way through, see how it works. Like a 16-16-16 product, or 20-20-20. Anything balanced that way. Another mistake is using soil that's too dense/heavy, takes too long to dry. Or, a soil that's too nutrient loaded -- with time-release nutrients that become slow torture for the entire grow, instead of gentle composted nutrients.).

If you can find the soil you used, that would help figure out what might have happened. You probably overfed in veg, and didn't water properly (leading to salt buildup, maybe mixed-message symptoms from the root being in both dry and too-constantly wet soil.
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You people have done this before. I made every possible mistake. Bad water, to much fertilizer. Butt they still look good.
I WILL TRY AGAIN l have learned a lot. The lights are custom made. There are 5 75 watt cob chips, with glass lens, heat sinks and fans. The chips run on 110 directly. They are full spectrum
I WILL TRY AGAIN l have learned a lot.
Have you thought about what you'll do next?

It would be interesting to see a grow in Kellogg "Raised Bed" soil. I love keeping things simple that way, using stuff anyone can get from the local hardware store.[1] Based upon your photo, I would add 30-50% perlite. (Kellogg has a video on the product page which shows the texture. The texture looks good. Better than the Patio Plus I use to turn soilless into a light soil. But, I like fast-drying soil. I'm pretty sure it would benefit from at least 25% perlite. I would probably go higher.).

I think one of the simplest ways to grow is "soilless" using Pro-Mix HP (contains 35% perlite) with 25% more perlite added. Use GH Flora Series 3-part and the "useless" schedule.[2] Soilless is between hydro and soil. (No hydro setup, and no biologically-active soil -- it's more sterile like hydro, just you feeding the roots like hydro.). The only thing not simple about that is: you need a ph pen to ph the nutrients each feeding (which means you need calibration fluids, probe cleaning fluid, storage fluid. It adds up. You also need ph-up.). In soil (with it's ph buffers), you shouldn't need that stuff. (After dialing in my nutrient strength, I haven't used my ph pen in 5 years. If you start in soil, you might not be able to get away with that. But, soils shouldn't need that much ph attention. I think when they do, it's due to overfeeding.).

If you want to use a light, airy soil with a nutrient schedule already dialed in: I documented my soil (<<link) and nutrients. (<<link). That definitely works. (I've been using it 6 years and afraid to change anything because it just works the way it is.). The bottles I mix aren't necessary. You can just use Grow More - Sea Grow all the way through. If you wanted to substitute your "Raised Bed" for "Patio Plus," I'm sure that should work. It's just 22% of the entire soil mix. As I said, I think the resulting texture would be better. I've never been thrilled with Patio Plus's woody texture. But, it has worked very, very well for me (mixed with Pro-Mix HP and more perlite).

[1] I'm growing two tests in Kellogg Cactus potting mix with MiracleGro fertilizer (<<link) right now. Had a rough start with too little light day 1, too strong light days 2-5, and the soil has no nutrients. It was hungry the first 10 days, especially for nitrogen. I had a gut feeling that was the problem. But, overfeeding/burning seedlings is a common new-grower mistake. So, my mind kept telling me to wait before feeding too much.

[2] Google for "GH 3 part - Useless' formula." It's on the growkind forum. I worked out the NPK ratios and PPM strengths (<<link) for each week's feedings. If I grew that way again, I would reduce the strength 10%. Maybe 20%.
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I prefer using a lot less nutrients than most but still have great outcomes from a grow. I use Promix with about 20% of compost/manure. The compost provides a ton of micronutrients and some macro nutrients, while I use Jack's 20-20-20 every few weeks to supply the majority of the nutrients. Promix has very little additives other than buffering compounds to keep the Ph stable. I find that it is much easier to add my own nutrients to the Promix than to rely on a pre packaged soil that might be too hot for some plants and cause issues that are hard to fix. I have used this recipe for over 30 years and have had no problems during that time and still got big plants. It is simple and damn near foolproof... I'm a fool and I haven't been able to screw it up yet! :)