24000 watt electrical question

[cheech]

I'm planning a (24) 1000 watt light grow. Because I want my ballasts running 24/7 it doesn't make sense to buy a light controller right? I figured I would rent out a light industrial building and before anything is set up have an electrical contractor install 24 240 volt outlets.

Then I'll plug my ballasts light cord into my flip flops and I'll be able to have two flowering rooms with (24) 1000 watt lights.

My question is regarding what I need to ask the electrician to do. I don't want to have to ask his advise which would let him know I'm running a grow(this is legal, but I still don't want anyone to know where it is but me).

Would I say, 'I'd like you to install 20 whatever amp 240 volt outlets.'? It should probably be set up like the cap 24x controller but without the timer right? Should I just buy one of those and plug the timer cord into a 120 volt outlet and ask the electrician to install the light timer?

Initially I'm only going to run (12) 1000 watt lights, but I know I will expand in a few months, so figured I would have the electrician set everything up in advance so no one but me is coming or going when the operation is running. Good idea right, or is there reason not to do this?

All advise appreciated.

edit: any advise regarding cooling two rooms that would both have 12 lights in them would also be appreciated. i'm thinking i could buy (2) 24000 btu window ac's for each room. i don't want to fuck with an excel air... way too much money. (4) 24000 btu window ac's would only cost me around 3500 and i will only have them up till october. i mean i guess the excel air and damper package would cost around 9 or 10, but i'd rather not buy one till next summer.

 

[sirsmokealot]

If your gonna use a flip flop to run two 12,000 watt rooms you would only need 12 240 volt outlets. If i was setting the room up instead of buying the fancy cap light controller i would just get two intermatic water heater timers from home depot for $50 each and that are rated for up to 40 amps and run 6 lights off each timer. So each timer will need its own 40 amp circuit run to it. You can also pick up a LG 24,000 btu window unit at home depot for $499. I would just buy 24 ballasts instead of running 12 24/7 on a flip flop. You should be able to get a Sun System Budget Grow 1000 watt ballast for $100 plus tax, just tell them thats what you can get them for online and most shops should price match it for you. Hope that helps...

 

[cheech]

i like your idea with the water heater timer... is this the one your talking about? how do i hook 240 volt outlets to it?


cheapest ballast i've been able to find is on ebay... sun system budget II for 160 including shipping. that's why i was going to put them on flip flops. flip flop costs me around 60 to make.

 

[Farmer Jon]

Thats the same timer i use to make my lighting controllers with. You can run 6 1000w lamps off each one, (30 amps safely) i wire it to a separate panal like a spa/a.c. quick disconect and hard wire all my lamps to that.
And as far as cooling the rooms i would definitely go with a real unit and not window units, it may cost more up front but the savings in the long run, as well as security make it the better choice. (4k btu per 1000w uncooled works well)

 

[sirsmokealot]

yup, that's the timer i was talking bout. Very easy to wire either a few 240 outlets to the load side of the timer, or what I do is just hard wire my 6 power cords together than run a pigtail from the power cords to the timer it self. I was told this is the proper way to do it as each 240 volt plug is only rated for say 15-20 amps per plugs and when you daisy chain 3 plugs in a row your running 30 plus amps threw each plug which COULD cause a fire. You should be able to get those budget gro II's for a lot less than $160. Do you have a local hydro store ? If you can make your own flip flops than I guess that will work. Still don't like the idea of a ballast never turning off.

 

[sirsmokealot]

Also the window unit ac's don't have to go in a window or thru a wall necessarily, just build a box closing off the very back of the unit, put in a 6 " flange and duct the hot air outside. You can even get a warranty from Home depot for extra $100 or so if it ever does break you get a new one. I would use the cheap window bangers until you get a round in then upgrade to a real AC.

 

[cheech]

alright cool i appreciate your advise man. i've gotta do some research on hard wiring power cords together and running a pigtail, because i don't know wtf that means. i'll figure it out though.. so thanks for pointing me in the right direction. i already know you saved me some big bucks.

that's exactly what i was planning on doing with the ac units. boxing the back up and venting out the heat.

yea there are 5 hydro stores in my area, but they are a HUGE rip off. even magnetic ballasts go for 300 at these stores. i think they assume people grow at their address and therefore are willing to pay for anonymity.

i don't know if leaving the ballast on all the time is good or bad.. the relays i made only cost 40 now that i think about it, and they have been working 100% since january.

thanks again.... if anyone else reading this has other ideas feel free to chime in.

 

[cheech]

farmer john do you run a real ac? do you think it would save me money? i only have 23k to spend, and the excel air with the diffuser is like 9k alone. that's why i want to use the window ac's. i figure it's only 3k and it will get me through this summer.. next year i'll upgrade. idk

 

[Farmer Jon]

I have a 1.5 ton mini split in one room and just installed a 3 ton in a room im putting together now.
In the long run it will save you tons. they are much cheaper month to month to run than window units and will do a better job at keeping your grow cool, but i know how it is being on a budget too. Maybe check out some used units on craigslist or ebay maybe even the local paper you may find a good deal on one.
I have used window units many times because i couldnt afford a central system. The main problems with window units are they cycle air from your room and dump it outside, some can be set to recirculate air inside the room only but they still are not closed off like the split units are, and you have issues to deal with. One being smell escaping the grow room, two being wasting co2 not to metion how much heat they put out the rear end which can become a problem in itself if you plan to keep them inside attached through a wall or the like.
I would have to say that being able to effectively cool the enviroment of a grow room is most important followed by dehumidification and co2 enrichment.
You can have all the light in the world and still not meet your goals if you dont have the rest of the requirements met.
1: seal the room (NO IN OR OUT VENTS AT ALL)
2: get an ac unit that will meet your needs (or long term goals)
3: buy a water cooled co2 generator (85% cooler than standard generators) and a co2 controller
4: buy a dehumidifier (hook it up to drain on its own)
5: buy a water chiller (@ 65deg f. your nute solution will hold huge amounts of oxygen)
6: Air movement is very important so you will need fans! LOTS of fans!
7: get a good carbon scrubber setup and run it continuously (it will help with odours and kill any funky stuff you dont want in the area)
8: spend the money for good genetics (all the love in the world wont turn crap to dank)
9: get a good meter for ph and ec and calibrate in regularly (ppm meters work too but an ec meter is best)
10: after you have covered this stuff you can start thinking about the rest. lights and timers and aerators and hoods and such. (a house will not last unless it is built on a solid foundation) Its better to start off with fewer lights and get more as you grow.
And dont forget to keep your room clean! (yourself as well, you are transport for many undesirables. Bugs, mold and such)
This is all just my opinion based on my experience but i hope i have helped you in at least some small manner.
Farmer Jon

 

[sirsmokealot]

this place has the budget gro's for $125 each plus shipping. http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/budget-gro-ii-remote-ballast-c-357_655.html

 

[RMCG]

Hit up Olyver for a loadcenter/subpanel and/or flip flop based on what you want, type of lights (dig or mag), lighting pattern, etc.

Then just have a sparky run the appropriate sub-feed from your main to where you want your sub panel installed. Easier than having to explain a whole mess of 240 outlets to them.

 

[stillsmokin]

Hit up Olyver for a loadcenter/subpanel and/or flip flop based on what you want, type of lights (dig or mag), lighting pattern, etc.

Then just have a sparky run the appropriate sub-feed from your main to where you want your sub panel installed. Easier than having to explain a whole mess of 240 outlets to them.

Can you explain this a bit?



I'm having some issues over there and count certainly use a wise word or two. :cake

 

[strawD]

Thats the same timer i use to make my lighting controllers with. You can run 6 1000w lamps off each one, (30 amps safely) i wire it to a separate panal like a spa/a.c. quick disconect and hard wire all my lamps to that.
And as far as cooling the rooms i would definitely go with a real unit and not window units, it may cost more up front but the savings in the long run, as well as security make it the better choice. (4k btu per 1000w uncooled works well)

NOBODY LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! if you're running "continuous" loads then you should only be using 80% of your circuits rating. that means a 30A circuit should run no more than 24A continuously. a 40A circuit could run 32A safely, meaning 7k total (4.5Ax7k=31.5A). If you want to run 12 lights, I'd run 2 40A circuits with 6 receptacles each. make sure you use thick enough wire (if its an electrician he will)

If you're using a flip flop, you dont need a timer on these outlets at all, just make them straight from the panel or subpanel. Then attach your lamp cord from your ballast to your flipflop, and go from there.

 

[Farmer Jon]

Heya strawd,
nice to see you drop in and take a moment to bash my statement. If you would have been paying attn. you'd have noticed i was refering to a 40 amp timer running 6 k @ 240v the (30 amps safely) 9.6 amps*6/2=28.8 amps thats better than an 80% cushion.
Take the time to read the whole thread next time, before you decide that someone is handing out bad info.
Farmer Jon