T
turboz
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Here is a little pic update. The roots are finally developing well into the buckets and the growth has really been picking up.
looking good it doesnt look like those have a lot of stretch on them. why do you have those bare bulbs hanging horizontally? Those are really short and stout plants. I was getting a lot of nutrient lock out with the ionic for some reason.
No not yet, they're definitely stout short guys for sure! Saw a couple threads and was also somewhat advised to also run horizontal lights during veg in the system, so we just flipped 2 lights up. Might place them directly overtop horizontally to try and get them to stretch a little, tallest is 21" and shortest is about 18". Going to flip at the median height of 24".
Can you give me a little rundown on your experience with Ionic if ya don't mind... What time in the cycle, what were the plants doing or showing, ppm level, other additives, regular or hard water ionic, RO or tap water? I read a couple places that Heath Robinson ran at 1.2EC throughout with base and then also ran some PK13/14 and got killer results. Not sure what scale he was using
though... Were planning on 1100-1200ppm max since our tap water is about 170-180ppm.
-ALLegal420
Just had my computer crash in the middle of replying, so I hope I remember everything I was trying to say!
First, I'm thinking you're on the right track with the horizontal bulbs, I'm watching to see how that experiement turns out.
Problems with 'nutrient lockout' often occur when people add nutrients in the wrong order. For instance, you ALWAYS add anything with calcium in it well diluted and LAST. Why? Because it's the most frequent bad actor in lockout situations. For instance, if you add magnesium sulfate- epsom salt- after adding calcium, you're likely to get a 'flocculation' reaction, where the calcium and the sulfur bind up and become 97% INsoluble and drop out of solution. What's left is... gypsum, yep the same stuff your wallboards are made of. So add your cal-mag, or anything else with calcium in it last to avoid this problem.
On to EC; think of EC as a basic measurement- like a torque measurement of engine power. PPMs, on the other hand, are a mthematical calculation based on this direct measurement- like horsepower- and are thus a lot less clear. For example, an EC of 1.2 is 600ppm@500, but 840ppm@700. Several of us who are looking into alternative nutrients are switching to the EC standard for clarity and simplicity.
EC.
No not yet, they're definitely stout short guys for sure! Saw a couple threads and was also somewhat advised to also run horizontal lights during veg in the system, so we just flipped 2 lights up. Might place them directly overtop horizontally to try and get them to stretch a little, tallest is 21" and shortest is about 18". Going to flip at the median height of 24".
Can you give me a little rundown on your experience with Ionic if ya don't mind... What time in the cycle, what were the plants doing or showing, ppm level, other additives, regular or hard water ionic, RO or tap water? I read a couple places that Heath Robinson ran at 1.2EC throughout with base and then also ran some PK13/14 and got killer results. Not sure what scale he was using
though... Were planning on 1100-1200ppm max since our tap water is about 170-180ppm.
-ALLegal420
Just had my computer crash in the middle of replying, so I hope I remember everything I was trying to say!
First, I'm thinking you're on the right track with the horizontal bulbs, I'm watching to see how that experiement turns out.
Problems with 'nutrient lockout' often occur when people add nutrients in the wrong order. For instance, you ALWAYS add anything with calcium in it well diluted and LAST. Why? Because it's the most frequent bad actor in lockout situations. For instance, if you add magnesium sulfate- epsom salt- after adding calcium, you're likely to get a 'flocculation' reaction, where the calcium and the sulfur bind up and become 97% INsoluble and drop out of solution. What's left is... gypsum, yep the same stuff your wallboards are made of. So add your cal-mag, or anything else with calcium in it last to avoid this problem.
On to EC; think of EC as a basic measurement- like a torque measurement of engine power. PPMs, on the other hand, are a mthematical calculation based on this direct measurement- like horsepower- and are thus a lot less clear. For example, an EC of 1.2 is 600ppm@500, but 840ppm@700. Several of us who are looking into alternative nutrients are switching to the EC standard for clarity and simplicity.
This thread was started so that people could discuss their nutrients and find less expensive alternatives. One thing that quickly became necessary was to make sure we were all on the same page as far as measurements, so we are trying to pass the word around the Farm to encourage the use of EC.
crossouttheiis - Thanks for the tip on going 30" tall, I believe we are going to flip around that median size now. Reflectors would reduce light loss but don't wanna fork out the cash for only another week or less, going to flip all to vertical here soon and add the 5th light.
How often are you adding cal-mag and how much ppm/EC are you adding total? What brand of nutrients are you running and how stable is your PH? We're going to watch them and see how they do with the 740ppm/1.4-1.5EC (560ppm of it is nutes and 180ppm is from the tap water).
ttystikk - Do you think the way we mixed is going to cause issues/lockout? I hate the thought of flushing fresh nutrients down the drain but will if it is going to be an issue. Any idea/guess on when we might start seeing issues, if at all? Thanks for all the info and help.
socalsfinestmmj- Thanks for the props! The room is a room within a room (room in a garage with about 4ft of walk around space outside the room on 2 sides and 1-1/2' on the 3rd side). We are finishing insulating the outer room where the compressor side of the A/C's sit and going to have an intake and outake fan setup here quick to keep it cooler. It can get pretty damn hot in the outer room when the A/C's are working hard so gotta get more air movement and cool fresh air in there. We will have a charcoal filter on the outake for extra precaution. Good luck on your build, looking forward to pics.
If our PH keeps creeping up from day to day what does it mean? Like from 5.8 to 6.4? Were going to let it swing but this time we dropped it back down (PH down) to 5.8 and see how long it takes to creep back up. Hopefully it will just swing up and then swing back down within range. Gotta do a little more research on this and see what happens over the next couple days.
-ALLegal420