4x4 Auto Apple Fritter grow

[JIMKSI64]

Update
Ferted rear younger plants. Week 3 foop nutes at 6.33 pH
Rotated young guns
Last one to fert this cycle is rear older plant left side.
Seeing some color changes I did not expect being unable to cut 10 degrees off of daytime temps. I will need AC in the grow room to hit 65 in the lung room outside of winter when it hangs around 64-68 from November to April.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Update
Ferted last plant rear older 1.5 liters foop at week 7 strength pH adjusted to 6.24
Defoled. Litter pick up
Older getting close will check trics later.
Lights have not moved or changed in 6 days

 

[JIMKSI64]

Trics older plant.

Trics younger plants

 

[JIMKSI64]

Morning look rotated younger plants moved to 33k at tops.
Older tops at 37k.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Update
Fed both front plants week 7 and week 3 respectively. Both single adjust pH to 6.34 and 6.30. 1.8 liters and i.3 liters.
Top lights 37k and 31k
One of the younger plants has halted the yellow fade. The second younger plants is slowing.

Close to pulling the older plants. May be last feed.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Am check looks like rear older plant may have stopped drinking. Nothing other than the fade going on and still swelling Younger rear plant not ready yet.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Update
Fed younger rear with 1.4 liters foop at week 4 pH adjusted 6.28
Also put this plant on a 2 inch riser to help catch up light level with other plant.
Rear older plant continues to stack hard and getting clumpy on trics. Barely drinking. This did not happen in last grow as humidity forced me into more airflow than I wanted.
Really looking very nice.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Update.
Fed last plant older rear left side 1.3 liters foop at week 8 pH adjusted to 6.33
Lights at 33k all tops.
Pulled dead stuff.
Rotated younger.
Based on this.

I peeled back a bud at the middle of a run and got this.

Based on inside bud trics not ready yet.

 

[JIMKSI64]

System weekly data

 

[AKM]

Recently bought a PAR meter, how does "33K" correlate with what the PAR meter measures in PPFD (recommended to be in the 300-600 range)? I'm learning a lot from this thread! Thanks so much for keeping it going. This AF's looking tasty!

 

[JIMKSI64]

Recently bought a PAR meter, how does "33K" correlate with what the PAR meter measures in PPFD (recommended to be in the 300-600 range)? I'm learning a lot from this thread! Thanks so much for keeping it going. This AF's looking tasty!

I will check my converter.
Dude the Fritters are stacking like mad. I did not get to see this part my first grow as I had high humidity issues but every morning there is a new clump of calyxs's with hairs and then the next day it's gone cause a new batch launched on top.
I wound up with very airy buds last time but full of oil. These are tight like a ripe plum.

 

[JIMKSI64]

Ok the Par meter has a selection you have to make to match your light source. I am not sure what app you have so just click buttons and menus and scroll till you find it. It will say things like 3000k or 3500k or 720nm or some such. Sometimes the manufacturer will give you actual spec like 720 white 3000k 169 blue 4800k 445 red bla bla bla bla and from that you can math it out specifically but Again I use it to watch trends and write down limits for my lights.
Having said that if you have a led panel of between 100-400 watts just choose 3500k spectrum. It will be close enough for growing dope. Choosing say hps or daylight will be way wrong.
Once you choose the spectrum the tool is converting to ppfd. You will need to change the default settings for saturation levels ( what max you want for seedling, veg and flower ) then for the DLI part of the grow. This is important
Daily Light Interval on my app from default was 24 hours and I recently helped another grower with an app that did the same thing. Again scroll and push buttons until you find the menu to change DLI for how many hours of light you run per day. Change it to what you run like mine is 18 hours.
2 reasons to do this. The setting for max ppfd is what you want to push the lights too for power. Some call it saturation levels. Saturation levels damage plants quickly. A cannabis plant can take a shit ton of power but not for the whole day.
In a photo run I ran my lights at 65000k lux for 12 hours. Cannabis saturation is about 75000 lux or about 1100 ppfd
The math worked out to about 34 hours per day.
I ran the autos at 40k for 18 so the DLI was 35.
When I ran my autos at 50lk after 12-14 hours they showed negative presentation ( looked like shit ) with curls and tips pointing down.
That's when I looked at my DLI and I was like O SHIT. I just measured in lux and do not use the app. If I had done so the red ring around the measurement would have warned me but I did not trust the app. I just read the raw lux reading.

 

[AKM]

I could never get the apps to give consistent results, tried the three main ones, so bought this PAR meter, and it only measures PAR, but it replicates the Spider Farmer PAR map perfectly, so I like it, lol. I'm pairing it with advice from commercial autoflower breeder, Phylos, using their recommendations for PAR and DLI. Don't seem to be getting the bleached tips like I was before. I have my Spider Farmer SF2000 at 75% vs 100% based on PAR meter. Colas are 12" from light in 800PAR, but next level of colas is around 600, then 200-300 down inside canopy, so kinda a rough average for 300-600 PAR within top 12-15" of the canopy. And at a DLI of 35 with 18/6 lighting.

 

[AKM]

 

[JIMKSI64]

Par is what you are measuring. It is the light source. If your tool matches the published ppfd for that light it is right on.
The max values need to be changed for the tool to work properly for warnings and exceeding Daily limits.
Ppfd is the amount.
Glad to see an app worked properly as a lot of these apps I tried just fail.

 

[JIMKSI64]

View attachment 2473927

Compared to my graph I made it is nice to see verification of my math.
Verification I am off by 3%

 

[JIMKSI64]

Also according to the meter specs it will not read any IR bands as the spectrum is all visible wavelength 400-700 nm
This tool would fail using outside or high IR band lights like HPS and other type bulb lights. Fine for led.

 

[AKM]

Also according to the meter specs it will not read any IR bands as the spectrum is all visible wavelength 400-700 nm
This tool would fail using outside or high IR band lights like HPS and other type bulb lights. Fine for led.

It almost seems this PAR meter was purpose-designed for LED cannabis grow-ops. But, like what you are doing, gives a good starting point for dialing in the lights and then looking at plants for clues for fine-tuning.

 

[JIMKSI64]

I'm

It almost seems this PAR meter was purpose-designed for LED cannabis grow-ops. But, like what you are doing, gives a good starting point for dialing in the lights and then looking at plants for clues for fine-tuning.

The biggest value to me is being able to exploit the nature of an LED panels pattern to balance the canopy energy. This grow I have the tops at 36k on the outside of the panel pattern and 32k 10 inches down in the plant because that area is in the hot spot of the panel.
I cheat whenever I can.

Perhaps some day led manufacturers will build a light just for the way cannabis naturally grows. This would mean the center is 35% lower and the edges of the round led panel are where the highest energy is located.

 

[AKM]

I'm

The biggest value to me is being able to exploit the nature of an LED panels pattern to balance the canopy energy. This grow I have the tops at 36k on the outside of the panel pattern and 32k 10 inches down in the plant because that area is in the hot spot of the panel.
I cheat whenever I can.

Perhaps some day led manufacturers will build a light just for the way cannabis naturally grows. This would mean the center is 35% lower and the edges of the round led panel are where the highest energy is located.

Yes! My thoughts exactly. Most LED light patterns aren't even completely suitable for plants grown into a single canopy with SCROG or LST. I hate sacrificing my main cola to get PAR down into the plant. And using powerful lights way up high is such a waste of energy.