Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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This poor clone deserved to be uppotted long before it was.I've got plants that have done the same thing actually. Ones with dense root balls, and they were getting far too root bound. It takes some time before there able to rebound from having the roots locked in a cage.
Yea, I try and do that days in advance if I remember.
It will come good I bet it's a good challenge to have Any .This poor clone deserved to be uppotted long before it was.
Learning all the time.It will come good I bet it's a good challenge to have Any .
It's likely certain to be the issue than, I think. Just make sure your getting your fluid into that center zone. Sometimes mine are so root bound, I've got to pour it into the plant very, very slowly, so it gets saturated into that tight root ball, and there's no dry spots inside....This poor clone deserved to be uppotted long before it was.
Good that's the best option you got Chook . You have come a long way in the year or so you have been growing just time n grows under your belt now to get your confidence up with the knowledge you are seeking . Regards OD .Learning all the time.
Yes more roots more fruit to toot on after harvest ... Od I'm using Root Roids it's the bomb 2 applications and I'm ready to pot up with no delay n no light dep anymore transplant to room in one go . That's Root Roids .....I certainly have increased my game in the last year or so, no doubt. When I begin to think I know this stuff well, I'm always humbled somehow, and end up learning even more.
This is the most extreme example I have at the moment in that respect.
Going to a solo cup first might have been a better option. Live and learn. She’s inside for the evening with me in the AC.I certainly have increased my game in the last year or so, no doubt. When I begin to think I know this stuff well, I'm always humbled somehow, and end up learning even more.
This is the most extreme example I have at the moment in that respect. I grow out the root balls, then paint some coco on them with some water, then stuff them back into the cups, and the roots grow farther into the new medium, adding, adding to the root ball. I just try and find novel ways of refining the techniques.
Never tried, but it sounds like very similar to what I use, actually.... I use the micro brew, which is the more concentrated version in the foxfarm line.Yes more roots more fruit to toot on after harvest ... Od I'm using Root Roids it's the bomb 2 applications and I'm ready to pot up with no delay n no light dep anymore transplant to room in one go . That's Root Roids .....View attachment 1138114
Thank you!That little flowering plant is cute, I had a zkittles like that once. You'll be surprised by how much it spreads out by the end.
To my mind silicon dioxide is not going to harm the pollen, but I don't generally mix it into it, I use it for my seeds, to keep them dry once they've been stratified.
The silicon dioxide should help a plant, overall, especially to establish roots. But pollens? It's an unknown for me, but I would think it should be safe, if the ph range is correct. It should only be a weak acid, which I would think, should be fine.
Silicon dioxide has no basic properties - it doesn't contain oxide ions and it doesn't react with acids. Instead, it is very weakly acidic, reacting with strong bases. Silicon dioxide doesn't react with water, (it absorbs it) because of the difficulty of breaking up the giant covalent structure.
It could however, make the pollens too dry, but extracting every tiny bit of moisure of it. I would think there's probably a balance in there somewhere, and pollens contain around 10-20% moisture, when fresh, ideallly about 4% dried.
I would just keep the silica in it's container and store it with the pollen, not mix it together. If need be, wrap it in a tiny peice of coffee filter, then put them side by side, sealed, then freeze. But let the pollen dehydrate first, stratify. This is key. I'm pretty sure this will work, and others here probably have more experience than I on this subject.
Congratulations, babies are on their way !I’m pretty sure AB108F is preggers. View attachment 1140886View attachment 1140887
So if I leave her outside now to reveg and finish seed development, how long before the seeds will be mature and will the plant die before the natural light cycle reverts it to flower? Does that make sense?Congratulations, babies are on their way !
Good question. IDK if longer days will hamper seed ripening or not. Mine are normally 5-6 weeks indoors.So if I leave her outside now to reveg and finish seed development, how long before the seeds will be mature and will the plant die before the natural light cycle reverts it to flower? Does that make sense?
After pollination switch back to 18-6 , you'll make the best seeds you ever had, and I can guarantee you if you been popping seeds from any of the bigger commercials guys you already grew seeds grown that way. However only use this method if growing just for seeds, because everything else will go to compostGood question. IDK if longer days will hamper seed ripening or not. Mine are normally 5-6 weeks indoors.
I just don’t want to be waiting until September.I never did it outside, but I can tell you in my seed rooms after pollination I then go to 18-6 lights on, depending on strain you can save up to 3 weeks that being max, on average i'd say maybe 14 days early they would be done, outside could be a bit different but I still think you should save a fair bit of time.
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