A Forum Breeding Project (in more than 5 words)

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Frankster

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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I think I've got the same or similar issue here, actually... Just a bit bigger plant. Was fine in it's prior pot, looked good, but was approaching maximum density, but when I transplanted, it stressed, instead of digging into the new medium.

She's going to stay out for a few days until it recovers.
 
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amekins

amekins

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I've got plants that have done the same thing actually. Ones with dense root balls, and they were getting far too root bound. It takes some time before there able to rebound from having the roots locked in a cage.

Yea, I try and do that days in advance if I remember.
This poor clone deserved to be uppotted long before it was.
 
Frankster

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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This poor clone deserved to be uppotted long before it was.
It's likely certain to be the issue than, I think. Just make sure your getting your fluid into that center zone. Sometimes mine are so root bound, I've got to pour it into the plant very, very slowly, so it gets saturated into that tight root ball, and there's no dry spots inside....
 
Frankster

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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I certainly have increased my game in the last year or so, no doubt. When I begin to think I know this stuff well, I'm always humbled somehow, and end up learning even more.

This is the most extreme example I have at the moment in that respect. I grow out the root balls, then paint some coco on them with some water, then stuff them back into the cups, and the roots grow farther into the new medium, adding, adding to the root ball. I just try and find novel ways of refining the techniques.
 
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One drop

One drop

Bush Doctor
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I certainly have increased my game in the last year or so, no doubt. When I begin to think I know this stuff well, I'm always humbled somehow, and end up learning even more.

This is the most extreme example I have at the moment in that respect.
Yes more roots more fruit to toot on after harvest ... Od I'm using Root Roids it's the bomb 2 applications and I'm ready to pot up with no delay n no light dep anymore transplant to room in one go . That's Root Roids ..... 🙄👌☮️
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amekins

amekins

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I certainly have increased my game in the last year or so, no doubt. When I begin to think I know this stuff well, I'm always humbled somehow, and end up learning even more.

This is the most extreme example I have at the moment in that respect. I grow out the root balls, then paint some coco on them with some water, then stuff them back into the cups, and the roots grow farther into the new medium, adding, adding to the root ball. I just try and find novel ways of refining the techniques.
Going to a solo cup first might have been a better option. Live and learn. She’s inside for the evening with me in the AC.
 
Frankster

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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Yes more roots more fruit to toot on after harvest ... Od I'm using Root Roids it's the bomb 2 applications and I'm ready to pot up with no delay n no light dep anymore transplant to room in one go . That's Root Roids ..... 🙄👌☮️View attachment 1138114
Never tried, but it sounds like very similar to what I use, actually.... I use the micro brew, which is the more concentrated version in the foxfarm line.

Been considering creating my own, actually...
Blood agar anyone?🤠 frankensteins porcine blood agar even.
Although for the fungi probably dextrose agar and potato-dextrose agar

Need to learn how to grow these things... I certainly cannot ever get enough microorganisms, I am in love with all of them.
always goes back to that balance thing I talk about... Symbiosis creates balance, and leverages advantage. Cultivating arbuscular Mycorrhizal fungi looks challenging, and probably not much efforts have been put into scaling it. It's a wide open field of Ag ripe for more development. Bet that place up in the mountains in the middle of the Cascades of mine would grow this kinda shit like gangbusters, by the pound. I've got lichens and mushrooms growing everywhere up there. Rains 150+ days per year... And this is expensive high dollar stuff, used for many Ag applications...

Scarlet elf cap cadnant dingle
 
Root roids
Microbrew
Microbrew2
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amekins

amekins

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AB105M spurted a little pollen. I did my best to pick it off the leaves with an eyeliner brush and gently brushed all the pistils of AB108F with it. I have no idea if I was successful but will continue to check for pollen and use it when I find it. Not sure how long before I will know if I’ve impregnated AB108F.
B207DDE6 16B6 41F0 9147 C3A2DCD81487


AB105M with pollen (zoom in).
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AB105M after collecting the pollen on the brush and painting on the pistils of AB108F.
1F324299 3B5B 41E0 9CC2 09687C6C34F1
 
amekins

amekins

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That little flowering plant is cute, I had a zkittles like that once. You'll be surprised by how much it spreads out by the end.

To my mind silicon dioxide is not going to harm the pollen, but I don't generally mix it into it, I use it for my seeds, to keep them dry once they've been stratified.

The silicon dioxide should help a plant, overall, especially to establish roots. But pollens? It's an unknown for me, but I would think it should be safe, if the ph range is correct. It should only be a weak acid, which I would think, should be fine.

Silicon dioxide has no basic properties - it doesn't contain oxide ions and it doesn't react with acids. Instead, it is very weakly acidic, reacting with strong bases. Silicon dioxide doesn't react with water, (it absorbs it) because of the difficulty of breaking up the giant covalent structure.

It could however, make the pollens too dry, but extracting every tiny bit of moisure of it. I would think there's probably a balance in there somewhere, and pollens contain around 10-20% moisture, when fresh, ideallly about 4% dried.

I would just keep the silica in it's container and store it with the pollen, not mix it together. If need be, wrap it in a tiny peice of coffee filter, then put them side by side, sealed, then freeze. But let the pollen dehydrate first, stratify. This is key. I'm pretty sure this will work, and others here probably have more experience than I on this subject.
Thank you!
 
amekins

amekins

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Congratulations, babies are on their way !
So if I leave her outside now to reveg and finish seed development, how long before the seeds will be mature and will the plant die before the natural light cycle reverts it to flower? Does that make sense?
 
Dr.Green55

Dr.Green55

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I never did it outside, but I can tell you in my seed rooms after pollination I then go to 18-6 lights on, depending on strain you can save up to 3 weeks that being max, on average i'd say maybe 14 days early they would be done, outside could be a bit different but I still think you should save a fair bit of time.
 
growsince79

growsince79

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So if I leave her outside now to reveg and finish seed development, how long before the seeds will be mature and will the plant die before the natural light cycle reverts it to flower? Does that make sense?
Good question. IDK if longer days will hamper seed ripening or not. Mine are normally 5-6 weeks indoors.
 
Dr.Green55

Dr.Green55

577
143
Good question. IDK if longer days will hamper seed ripening or not. Mine are normally 5-6 weeks indoors.
After pollination switch back to 18-6 , you'll make the best seeds you ever had, and I can guarantee you if you been popping seeds from any of the bigger commercials guys you already grew seeds grown that way. However only use this method if growing just for seeds, because everything else will go to compost
 
amekins

amekins

2,684
263
I never did it outside, but I can tell you in my seed rooms after pollination I then go to 18-6 lights on, depending on strain you can save up to 3 weeks that being max, on average i'd say maybe 14 days early they would be done, outside could be a bit different but I still think you should save a fair bit of time.
I just don’t want to be waiting until September.
 

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