Inbudwetrust
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Since your asking for the suggestion : I would get a par meter or if you can’t afford that get a candle meter meter and it will de show you where your light is and overlapping (+ make sure always wear suntan lotion , and wear some method seven glasses , UVA/UVB you cannot see and it will give you can but it sure makes your plants go wild )
( the temp/humidity hygrometer: step 2 ?
Then if it’s not PAR’s messing with your plants ( if meters showing average amounts and stable and even, but I always recommend having l to know where how powerful your conopy and not waste your lights , it’s heat overlapping , all you gotta do is have multiple humidity/temp with a probe and put it (1-2) on borders and (1-2) in middle separated do you can see if the temps are def being effected. Put all the probes on Best presented leaf that would be canopy level that would be your overall top trellis level. Yes you’ll need 4-6 of those Hygrometers but there only under 10 bucks a piece and you can know your whole rooms environment temp and humidity afterwards or multiple easily. ( I even Velcro mine to the wall )
Anyways good luck on your grow and subbed on it . Looking clean and plants happy ( keep it up )
I'd pull a few of those fan leaves it's looking pretty dense in there. Your overall quality will go up and you'll reduce chance of rot/pm. Looks healthy tho, nice workI’m in 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal pots. Currently in week 5 of flower and I feed 800 ppm twice daily. Pump on timer and runs for 3 minutes. That gives me about 20% run off. I NEVER let the coco dry out. I also flush weekly with SLF-100 and beneficial microbes. Your plants look great. I bet you could just keep on like you have and be fine. But as stated above, coco should be treated like hydro to get the most benefit. I suspect that if you dialed in daily feedings, you would get faster growth. I have just the smallest touch of nute burn on some of my leaf tips, so I know I’m right there with how much I can feed them. I’m using AN Sensi ph perfect line.
I’m in 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal pots. Currently in week 5 of flower and I feed 800 ppm twice daily. Pump on timer and runs for 3 minutes. That gives me about 20% run off. I NEVER let the coco dry out. I also flush weekly with SLF-100 and beneficial microbes. Your plants look great. I bet you could just keep on like you have and be fine. But as stated above, coco should be treated like hydro to get the most benefit. I suspect that if you dialed in daily feedings, you would get faster growth. I have just the smallest touch of nute burn on some of my leaf tips, so I know I’m right there with how much I can feed them. I’m using AN Sensi ph perfect line.
Yup, all true. Here's what I did to address those issues. Inside my res I have an air stone, air injected small circulation pump (to keep the water moving), aquarium heater to keep it at 69* (I'm in the garage so it's about 50* in there lately), and the main pump. Five days later my solution looks the same as the day I mixed it. Before adding the small pump I would have brown fluff sitting on the bottom after a few days. I just mix, check EC and ph, and forget about it until it's empty again. I don't use emitters. I have a loop made out of spaghetti tubing, with 4 T's spaced out evenly where the solution is pumped out. They are too big to clog, and I don't use organic nutes. If I do, for whatever reason, I direct feed them with a pump sprayer. I have the T's angled out towards the side of the pot so the solution is directed to the outer 1/3 of the medium. I pump to a manifold, then to the plants. I'm using a 633 gph main pump. The run off drains to a sump in the platform I built that he tent sits on, and is pumped to a catch res, which gets dumped during res changes. Everything is on a timer. I don't have to do shit. Works perfectly.thanks I always thought letting it dry out was a bad idea . Not only the salt build up but it’s hard to get them fully wet once they completely dry out , the water just goes down the sides of the pot . I have a pump it just is difficult to keep bits cool and mixed very well . When you let nutes sit in a reservoir for more than a few hours they separate a bit which is bad plus they get warm which is also bad . Lastly if you don’t alternate water and nutes the emitters clog up . A big mess I don’t want to deal with unless I plumb it right the first time .
Thanks man. I have pulled fan leaves that shaded buds and lower ones that were looking sickly. However, I’m not doing any major defoliating this run. The do or do not defoliate debate has intrigued me. I’m going to do minimal on this run and more aggressive defoliation next run. Then compare dry weights and see for myself which is better.I'd pull a few of those fan leaves it's looking pretty dense in there. Your overall quality will go up and you'll reduce chance of rot/pm. Looks healthy tho, nice work
Oh, and I forgot to mention that I also have a 2 or 4 micron (can’t remember which) in-line filter at the manifold. I just clean it out every so often.thanks I always thought letting it dry out was a bad idea . Not only the salt build up but it’s hard to get them fully wet once they completely dry out , the water just goes down the sides of the pot . I have a pump it just is difficult to keep bits cool and mixed very well . When you let nutes sit in a reservoir for more than a few hours they separate a bit which is bad plus they get warm which is also bad . Lastly if you don’t alternate water and nutes the emitters clog up . A big mess I don’t want to deal with unless I plumb it right the first time .
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