Advice for a good finish.

[AlexGrowns]

Second indoor, tips of bud leaves starting to turn purple, fan leaves starting to turn, only started to really smell maybe 3 days ago, 60-70% orange hairs, not a single brown trich yet homestly cat tell what % clear vs white maybe need to get a better eyepiece, flushed my output from 1800ppm to 740ppm 2 days ago...
So... stop feeding for sure? Keep flushing? Will it grow more or should i focus on finishing, would like them to get bigger but what seems best?
Seems like its not in a hurry to finish but Im not that experienced so let the colors change fully and keep an eye out for a few brown trichs? Or am I like maybe weeks away? Flipped on June 4th but it was pre flowering like it was a few weeks in at that point.
Was reading posts on this site for weeks and just made an account, you guys are a vast wealth of knowledge and would like to get some ideas of what to expect, any advice is appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[az2000]

I think you have more time left, but when you see amber trichomes, that would be what to base your decision on. If you do have 1-2 weeks left. You could give a "booster" ratio (1-3-2 NPK ratio). And/or, feed it some Pennington Alaska Pure Kelp. I think that stuff acts like a bud hardener. In veg it can cause stretch. It has growth hormones. I don't use it except in late'ish flower. I think at that time the plant is stritctly in bud-growth mode. The growth hormones cause bud growth, not stretch.

 

[AlexGrowns]

I think you have more time left, but when you see amber trichomes, that would be what to base your decision on. If you do have 1-2 weeks left. You could give a "booster" ratio (1-3-2 NPK ratio). And/or, feed it some Pennington Alaska Pure Kelp. I think that stuff acts like a bud hardener. In veg it can cause stretch. It has growth hormones. I don't use it except in late'ish flower. I think at that time the plant is stritctly in bud-growth mode. The growth hormones cause bud growth, not stretch.

Awesome, thanks. Yeah if it's looking more like 2 weeks maybe a little booster makes sense. I'm also going to look into kelping it, I've only heard good things.

 

[az2000]

Awesome, thanks. Yeah if it's looking more like 2 weeks maybe a little booster makes sense. I'm also going to look into kelping it, I've only heard good things.

What fertilizer product(s) are you using? Be careful of you "bloom boost." Typical boosters are 80% nutrient by weight (compared to the fertilizer fed through the grow, which might be 10-30% nutrients by weight). It's easy to burn plants. You can dial it in for the exact NPK ratio and strength. Or, just cut the ordinary fertilizer to 1/4 strength and use the same amount of "booster". That's relatively safe (if you don't want to dial it in exactly).

Some people believe molassses helps in soil. I haven't noticed it. They say it has trace nutrients. Or, feeds the soil microbes. The kelp has trace nutrient. You can add a pinch of sugar to feel the microbes. (I do that each feeding.).

 

[Dirtbag]

Something I was recommended and tried on my last grow was using pure blend pro "soil bloom" for the last 2-3 feedings as a ripener. My last run I did about 3 feedings with it in weeks 8 and 9, and then 3 feeds of plain water, and it really helped them finish up and get quite fat at the end with about 5-10% amber, the rest were super cloudy.

 

[Dirtbag]

Also, 1800ppm output!?! Whoaaa.... That's wild man. What media are you growing in?

 

[az2000]

Also, 1800ppm output!?! Whoaaa.... That's wild man. What media are you growing in?

FWIW: I tend to keep my runoff PPMs around 1800 in mid-/late-flower. I don't try to. It's just where it finds itself with the feeding I give. If it reaches 2500ppm, I get lockout. (I wound up at 1800 after fighting salt buildup, an reducing my nute strength. It seems to work well. Sometimes I'll pour more volume for more runoff, and it will go to 1600. Sometimes I feed more, and it goes to 2000.).

 

[Dirtbag]

FWIW: I tend to keep my runoff PPMs around 1800 in mid-/late-flower. I don't try to. It's just where it finds itself with the feeding I give. If it reaches 2500ppm, I get lockout. (I wound up at 1800 after fighting salt buildup, an reducing my nute strength. It seems to work well. Sometimes I'll pour more volume for more runoff, and it will go to 1600. Sometimes I feed more, and it goes to 2000.).

Interesting. I adjust my feed feed water cycle to feed water water if it starts to climb. Soetimes I'll just drop nute strength and water to more runoff to achieve the same effect. I'll usually feed 1.5ec/750ppm and expect runoff to be 1.7-1.8. When it creeps up to 1.9-2ec/900-1000ppm I usually add an extra water only cycle with 100-150ppm calcium carbonate ph'd to 6.5 to bring the runoff ppm back down and prevent the media from going acidic. I use Proterra/promix.

 

[az2000]

Interesting. I adjust my feed feed water to feed water water if it starts to climb. I'll usually feed 1.5ec/750ppm and expect runoff to be 1.7-1.8. When it creeps up to 1.9-2ec/900-1000ppm I add an extra water only cycle with 100-150ppm calcium carbonate ph'd to 6.5 to bring the runoff ppm back down and prevent the media from going acidic.
FWIW I use Proterra/promix.

That could be better. I came at it from a different angle after growing in soilless with hydro nutrients (GH Flora 3-part). I fed very strong with that. Then I wanted to have a more soil grow, using nutrients made for soil. I didn't know soil nutients should be fed lighter. So... I had salt buildup, lockout. As I said, I worked my way down from that and found a strength which seems to hold the runoff around 1600-2000 ppm (with my customary 10-20% runoff).

I hardly ever reduce nutrient strength or feed water only. I just increase the volume of my regular strength and get more runoff. I always have the feel the increased salts in the soil aren't balanced in the way that I pour in. Maybe the plant ate more N, and there's excess PK. So, if I feed lighter (expecting the plant to "finish its plate"), maybe that's not ideal.

I may be way off base with that. But, I do more runoff than most soil growers do. That keeps the salt buildup cleared out. And, I think of it more as giving the plant a fresh plate each feeding. (But, that could just be my own superstition.).

My soil is very light. Because I came from soilless, I treat my soil as soilless in many ways (like the high runoff, and force-feeding strengths.).

I have reduced the strength and runoff to try to conserve nutrients, and let the plant grow however it will. But, it doesn't seem to work as well as the stronger nutrients and mini-flush volume of runoff each feeding. If my soil was heavier, more like soil (than soilless), maybe it would work.

Anyway, I didn't mean to interrupt the OP answering your question about the soil he uses.

 

[AlexGrowns]

What fertilizer product(s) are you using? Be careful of you "bloom boost." Typical boosters are 80% nutrient by weight (compared to the fertilizer fed through the grow, which might be 10-30% nutrients by weight). It's easy to burn plants. You can dial it in for the exact NPK ratio and strength. Or, just cut the ordinary fertilizer to 1/4 strength and use the same amount of "booster". That's relatively safe (if you don't want to dial it in exactly).

Some people believe molassses helps in soil. I haven't noticed it. They say it has trace nutrients. Or, feeds the soil microbes. The kelp has trace nutrient. You can add a pinch of sugar to feel the microbes. (I do that each feeding.).

I've been using hydro nutes 3 part, trying 10% strength 50-100% strength alternatively... rally not sure of how to feed soil hydro nutes, just trying things out lol My first grow I think I burned them pretty bad so every second grow I give it less or none. "Or, just cut the ordinary fertilizer to 1/4 strength and use the same amount of "booster"" <- This is what I probably needed to hear.

 

[AlexGrowns]

Also, 1800ppm output!?! Whoaaa.... That's wild man. What media are you growing in?

That was my reaction also haha Im growing in peat based potting soil. Still trying to guage what's what for PPM.

 

[AlexGrowns]

Second indoor, tips of bud leaves starting to turn purple, fan leaves starting to turn, only started to really smell maybe 3 days ago, 60-70% orange hairs, not a single brown trich yet homestly cat tell what % clear vs white maybe need to get a better eyepiece, flushed my output from 1800ppm to 740ppm 2 days ago...
So... stop feeding for sure? Keep flushing? Will it grow more or should i focus on finishing, would like them to get bigger but what seems best?
Seems like its not in a hurry to finish but Im not that experienced so let the colors change fully and keep an eye out for a few brown trichs? Or am I like maybe weeks away? Flipped on June 4th but it was pre flowering like it was a few weeks in at that point.
Was reading posts on this site for weeks and just made an account, you guys are a vast wealth of knowledge and would like to get some ideas of what to expect, any advice is appreciated.
Thanks!

GUYS! Almost right after I posted my original post I noticed 2 of the plants starting to grow "nanners"... I freaked and cut them down and left the other non nanners one in dark for 48 hrs and then cut it... not sure if best thing to do, there weren't many... I really didn't want to crop early and in retrospect I maybe could have let them go and I should have posted here first and got some advice but I did what I did, I def don't think it was in it's prime but I'm going to try to dial it all in better next one. I'll post some pics of the yield later today.

 

[xPeacePipex]

Wow, that was short and not so sweet. Rodelization can be a bitch, especially when you have invested time with breeding and have nothing more than birdseed when all is said and done. Next time perhaps pluck the anthers first and watch diligently if this happens again, they just might have been duds anyway.

 

[BigCube]

Those plants you posted pics of? I hope you didn't crop them already.

 

[AlexGrowns]

Wow, that was short and not so sweet. Rodelization can be a bitch, especially when you have invested time with breeding and have nothing more than birdseed when all is said and done. Next time perhaps pluck the anthers first and watch diligently if this happens again, they just might have been duds anyway.

Yeah I rushed it but was having some light leak issues and heat issues that were room related and need to be addressed before next gorw (heard light f*ckery can cause this also stress) I'll know not to spaz next time.

 

[Dirtbag]

overfeeding probably stressed them into throwing nanners. Probably dont want to hear this, but they're usually not a huge deal. They arent likely to pollinate the whole crop, they usually just make a couple seeds, no big deal. Sometimes when they emerge late in flower they dont produce any viable pollen at all. I would not have chopped..

 

[AlexGrowns]

overfeeding probably stressed them into throwing nanners. Probably dont want to hear this, but they're usually not a huge deal. They arent likely to pollinate the whole crop, they usually just make a couple seeds, no big deal. Sometimes when they emerge late in flower they dont produce any viable pollen at all. I would not have chopped..

Thanks for the advice seems to be the prevailing opinion to have let it go, I'll know for next time (will try to improve conditions so it won't even happen) but next time I'll post and wait.

 

[BigCube]

Thanks for the advice seems to be the prevailing opinion to have let it go, I'll know for next time (will try to improve conditions so it won't even happen) but next time I'll post and wait.

Just another step in the process of getting your own "system" down flawlessly.

Rome wasn't built in a day and you can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs, and all that

 

[Dirtbag]

Just another step in the process of getting your own "system" down flawlessly.

Rome wasn't built in a day and you can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs, and all that

Facts.

 

[az2000]

I've been using hydro nutes 3 part, trying 10% strength 50-100% strength alternatively... really not sure of how to feed soil hydro nutes, just trying things out lol My first grow I think I burned them pretty bad

They didn't look bad/stressed. I wouldn't have guessed you were struggling with anything. I used Gen Hydro's 3-part nutes when I began growing. But, I was in soilless (Pro-Mix HP without any amendments... just 25% more perlite; so it was organically inactive). I didn't monitor runoff ppms then. It grew well. I had some burn. I followed the "useless" schedule (it's on the growkind forum, if you google for it. It's halfway between the label strength vs the customary half strength people do.).

If you're in soil (not soilless), I'd recommend that you switch to a fertilizer for soil, promoting microbial activity, etc.). I never fed the hydro 3-part in soil. But, I believe (and from what I've read from others) it's far from optimal for soil. It's purely synthetic, chelated, doesn't require soil microbes to participate with the roots. (Just like hydro growers don't put soil fertilizers in their systems.). Soil is supposed to be *dirty*. ("I soiled myself."). The words (soil and dirt) mean something. You want to promote that kind of life. It will interact with the roots. I think hydro nutrients are the wrong direction in that regard. They're not healthy for the microbes. You might not be able to get entirely away from synthetic nutrients (all-in-one, direct-feed vs amended into the soil) probably have some. But, much of the nutrients can be organically source (urea for N, guano for P. K's always a tough one for me. People use wood ashes. But, I like to be more direct-feed and aware of the NPK ratio I'm giving. I use a Silica Blast product in veg for K. And, potassium sulfate in flower. Langbeinite in flower some times if I need more magnesium.).

Anyway, I think you'd be happy (if you're in soil) using Jack's Classic. Many people use that. (JR Peters makes a citrus ratio and bloom ratio. You can mix those with Classic's 1-1-1 ratio to get custom veg/bloom ratios. (I have a spreadsheet that makes it easy to figure out. I can give that to you.). I use Grow More - Sea Grow. It's more organically-sourced than Jacks (it has blood meal, kelp, yucca). I mix my Sea Grow with various things to create my own NPK ratios for veg/flower. I can give you my "schedule." It's more like a menu. I can use various things to reach the desired ratio.

Be prepared to feed less in soil. I was feeding 900-1200ppm in soilless. When I switched to soil (and Sea Grow), I mixed my nutrients about that strong. I didn't see leaf burn, so I assumed it was correct. (Synthetic/chelated nutrients are instantly available. I think you get feedback from the leaves in that case. Soil nutrients depend on the microbes.). But, early flower I had salt buildup & lockout (acid soil). The unused nutrients were building up in the soil. It took awhile to figure that out. (That's when I discovered runoff ppm tracks that. I found the strength which doesn't spin out of control. Runoff volume is an important part of this too. I think I have more runoff than most people. I can go a little weaker & lower runoff. Or, stronger & higher runoff.).

Anyway, you don't need proprietary multi-bottle "lineups." You can supplement a not-so-sexy fertilizer product with various things to improve it. (The spreadsheet I mentioned lets you unwind those "lineups" to see the NPK ratio they produce each week. Recreate that with generic things found locally.).