Just make sure u dont get light burn idk what kinda led ur running mine I can feel the heat at 6inches away a good way to test is use the under side of ur fore arm if it feels uncomfortable its probably uncomfortable for ur girls

Leelandgrow3 said:

Just make sure u dont get light burn idk what kinda led ur running mine I can feel the heat at 6inches away a good way to test is use the under side of ur fore arm if it feels uncomfortable its probably uncomfortable for ur girls

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Heat is not a problem

Leelandgrow3 said:

Just make sure u dont get light burn idk what kinda led ur running mine I can feel the heat at 6inches away a good way to test is use the under side of ur fore arm if it feels uncomfortable its probably uncomfortable for ur girls

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I am now running a 19 watt led and 6
10 watt led lightbulbs as suggested by az2000

How is that plant doing with the small bud sites

Leelandgrow3 said:

How is that plant doing with the small bud sites

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I will update pics in a bit i am now 5 days into using the household leds

I would say i see huge improvement

Looking better

Justinb19 said:

I dont qwant huge plants i want to keep them smaller and i think ill be ok with my new light setup

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I agree. Not everyone's a bigger-is-better person. It's a lot of fun to grow a plant from seedling to harvest. Keeping them small (less veg time) means you can grow more frequently, that's all. It's a great way to get experience. Instead of waiting 4-5 months for an outdoor plant to ripen, you can harvest a plant that vegged 2-3 weeks in half the time. (If you did grow outdoors, you can plant some autoflowers too. They're perfect (IMO) for growing outdoors. You can get 1-2 harvests while waiting for the photosensitive to ripen in the fall.).

I've always thought a great way to get years of experience in a short period of time would be to start a new autoflower (indoors) every 2 weeks. After about 12 weeks, you'll have 6 plants going -- and harvest one of them. Every two weeks, add a seedling -- harvest the holdest plant. (Rotating a new one for the oldest one). That would be a phenomenal way to experiment with things, apply what you learned "the last grow (two weeks ago), and the grow before that (4 weeks ago), etc." It would require tremendous organizational skills, record keeping, being able to glean what worked better, worse, together, separately, etc. If someone didn't work, sat at home for a year... that could be like 8 years of growing experience in 1 year. That would be wasteful running lights 18/6 for a year, growing smallish autos. But, the motivation would be something other than energy efficiency or size.

So, there's nothing wrong with growing smaller plants, stating new grows sooner. If it's just a hobby, it doesn't have to bigger is better, 63w/sq ft lighting, etc. As long as you're enjoying it, looking forward to the next grow, etc.

Yep also can see some crystal coming in some places now

az2000 said:

I agree. Not everyone's a bigger-is-better person. It's a lot of fun to grow a plant from seedling to harvest. Keeping them small (less veg time) means you can grow more frequently, that's all. It's a great way to get experience. Instead of waiting 4-5 months for an outdoor plant to ripen, you can harvest a plant that vegged 2-3 weeks in half the time. (If you did grow outdoors, you can plant some autoflowers too. They're perfect (IMO) for growing outdoors. You can get 1-2 harvests while waiting for the photosensitive to ripen in the fall.).

I've always thought a great way to get years of experience in a short period of time would be to start a new autoflower (indoors) every 2 weeks. After about 12 weeks, you'll have 6 plants going -- and harvest one of them. Every two weeks, add a seedling -- harvest the holdest plant. (Rotating a new one for the oldest one). That would be a phenomenal way to experiment with things, apply what you learned "the last grow (two weeks ago), and the grow before that (4 weeks ago), etc." It would require tremendous organizational skills, record keeping, being able to glean what worked better, worse, together, separately, etc. If someone didn't work, sat at home for a year... that could be like 8 years of growing experience in 1 year. That would be wasteful running lights 18/6 for a year, growing smallish autos. But, the motivation would be something other than energy efficiency or size.

So, there's nothing wrong with growing smaller plants, stating new grows sooner. If it's just a hobby, it doesn't have to bigger is better, 63w/sq ft lighting, etc. As long as you're enjoying it, looking forward to the next grow, etc.

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I am absolutely looking forward to my next grow once i harvest this one i can start a new as we r only aloud to have 4plants per household here in canada

BTW: I made this household LED lightbulb mount yesterday:



That's basically the same folding arm used in my "flexible" top-light fixture. And, my tent-leg mount (of which you see one below the folding arm). The only difference: 1) The folding arm operates on the horizontal plane. 2) I added an addition joint for the "hand" at the end (where the light's mounted). 3) I used a 3/4" PVC "T" fitting instead of a coupler.

That's a 10w GE Brightstick. A reflector can be threaded onto the end of that socket (i.e, the socket came from a clamp-on reflector sold at Lowes or Home Depot).

The reason I made this is because the tent-leg mounts aren't great for when you need the light closer to a smaller/younger plant. (They're good for when the plant fills the tent.). These folding arms will nest/collapse and the bulb will be near the tent leg. But, not as snug/close to the tent leg as the original tent-leg mount (which the clamp-on swivel mounts to directly). So, the folding arm isn't meant to replace that tent-leg mount. But, I'm thinking it may be possible to install the clamp-on pivot part into this "T", and use the T for both purposes. Extend the light when it's beneficial. Or, mount the light to the PVC when maximum clearance is needed.

One thing I don't like about these is: It's not easy to add/remove them when the tent's set up. A tall 7' tent, you can unzip the floor a little, and separate the two-pole leg. That's not too bad. But, in this 4' tall tent, it's not as easy. You have to peel the roof back a little and separate the pole from the 3-way corner joint. I'm trying to think of a way these can be "halves" and clamped onto the leg.

BTW: That's a seedling in Kellogg Palm & Cactus potting mix. I saw a bag of that torn open at Lowes about 5 years ago. I *immediately* thought it look like the right consistency for cannabis. I've always wanted to try it, but never did because my soil (56% Pro-Mix HP, 22% Kellogg Patio Plus, 22% Perlite) works fine. Lately I've been thinking I should give it a try because it's much simpler to acquire and start growing. It could be good for the new grower who wants to try growing, without getting into fine-tuning things.

The seedling is stretched more than I like. I recently got a PAR meter, and read that seedlings like 100-300ppfd (something else said 200-400). So, I started at 130ppfd. That was one globeless & reflected 8.5w (60w-equiv) 5000k GE "basic" bulb from Lowes, with the lip of the reflector about 12" above the plant (the LED suface would be about 3" deeper into the reflector). I think that's why it stretched. Those 5000k bulbs probably aren't as blue as they should be. 6500k would probably be better. No stores carry those. I might buy some on Amazon for next time.[1] I'd like to see if 130ppfd (the low end of what a seedling needs) would work better with cooler/bluer light.

Normally I use a globed 5000k bulb (in a reflector), closer. The globed light is more diffuse. I just cut some globes off new bulbs, so I reached for one of those. And then, I just got the PAR meter, so I thought I should use that to "do it by the book." If I had done it the way I normally do, I don't think it would have stretched that much. It stretched a lot that first day.

Anyway, so far it seems like a good soil last Thursday 7pm. I planted directly in the soil (didn't soak the seeds; didn't use a fine peat seedling bed like I do in my soil, which can be too chunky for seeds). One seed was breaking ground Sunday 7pm. The other Monday 7am. So, 3-3.5 days was pretty good.

The soil seems a little heavy by my standards. I wanted to add 20-30% perlite. (It already has a fair amount out of the bag. Much more than any other bagged potting mix I've seen.). The heavy appearance may be misleading because it's sand & pumice. Drains fast. Very frangible. It's not like moisture-holding peat clumped together. So, I decided to grow in it without adding perlite. See how it works. If it work well, that would be useful for new growers, keep it simpler.

[1] Viribright 13w ASIN: B07BGBTR4X
I don't know anything about those bulbs. But, when I found then, I saw this lamp holder:


I like that! Those joints are flexible (you can aim the sockets a little). It's made in a 3-socket version, and a 5-socket (same as the 4-, but has a straight-down socket in the center).

Justinb19 said:

View attachment 887958View attachment 887959View attachment 887960View attachment 887961View attachment 887962View attachment 887963

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Dude, massive improvement. This way you will actually get some smoke

Also can someone post a. How to harvest instructions

Justinb19 said:

Heat is not a problem

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FYI: LEDs can bleach cannabis if too intense. Sometimes people call that burn. I've never had a problem with leaves 2-3" from a globeless 8-10w 60w-equiv bulb. (That's about 1000ppfd, well within what people do in flower.) The distance is a tradeoff between coverage and light-loss (the inverse square, 25% of the light, every time you double the distance.). 3-4" should be good.

Sometimes I use glass PAR-38 19w 40-degree floodlights. Those would worry me about bleaching. I keep those 8" away. But, now the many floodlights are plastic. You can cut (or pry) the front lens off. There's probably a lens over the LED diode. Remove that. The result is like a 19w lightbulb (the chips surface mounted, facing the same direction) with a built-in reflector (which makes it a little more directional; puts more light where you want it, without being intense like the lensed version.).

az2000 said:

I just started looking at these recently. Cree makes one.

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I did this with 3 Cree floodlights, took out the reflector and mounted them in a cheap 3 bulb fixture, looks good but haven't tried it through a grow yet. I would have gone with 4 or 5 bulbs but they are too big in diameter and would have hit each other.
https://www.amazon.com/8T8-Standard...ight+fixture&qid=1565961137&s=gateway&sr=8-28

GrnMtnGrowR said:

I did this with 3 Cree floodlights, took out the reflector and mounted them in a cheap 3 bulb fixture, looks good but haven't tried it through a grow yet. I would have gone with 4 or 5 bulbs but they are too big in diameter and would have hit each other. https://www.amazon.com/8T8-Standard...ight+fixture&qid=1565961137&s=gateway&sr=8-28

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I really like the idea of these 3 bulb to one socket i may have to pickup a couple of theese for my next set of seedlings

GrnMtnGrowR said:

I did this with 3 Cree floodlights, took out the reflector and mounted them in a cheap 3 bulb fixture, looks good but haven't tried it through a grow yet. I would have gone with 4 or 5 bulbs but they are too big in diameter and would have hit each other.

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The available mounting options are amazing. I saw this light bar on Amazon (ASIN: B076S6927J):


Also this single-bulb (B077R9JYLB) could be useful:



You could use that single-socket with this 7-socket (B07BFNW1JD):


That one has a center socket. There's so many things out there like this. It's like Legos. It can be overwhelming figuring out where to start.

FYI: I started a grow journal for an LED lightbulb grow. (<<link). The seeds sprouted 4 days ago. I'm doing that grow to test Kellogg Palm & Cactus potting mix. If the potting mix works out, I'll be doing lightbulbs all the way through.

One thing I'm already noticing: one of the seedlings likes the 4-5 years old Philips LED lightbulb (Home Depot) more than the newer GE "basic" sold at Lowes. I'm going to replace it with a new Philips bulb to see if it's the same. There may be something about that spectrum (even through the GE is 5000k too.).

Something else: I think 6000-6500k bulbs would be better. They're sold on Amazon (B07BGBTR4X). The 4000k daylight bulbs work, but I bet 6000-6500k would work better in veg. I had some stretch with the seedlings because I tried to use the minimum amount of ppfd for cannabis. I want to try that again with cooler/bluer light.

Justinb19 said:

I dont qwant huge plants i want to keep them smaller and i think ill be ok with my new light setup

Click to expand...

OK, everybody has their own tricks & licks for growing...looks good though.

Justinb19 said:

I really like the idea of these 3 bulb to one socket i may have to pickup a couple of theese for my next set of seedlings

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Is it powerful enough for flowering? Some plain floresent bulbs are sufficient for growing in the vegetative state, but it'll grow slower than it would with high watt LED systems or high pressure sodium or metal halide set-ups. If you can use it for both veg. & flower that'd by a nice set-up.