L
LONGLINER
- 10
- 0
thanks for all the info,as im a new grower this will help alot,if i can find some seeds.
An Amazing OG Recipe I Want To Share With Everyone
S
surfguy1936
- 93
- 16
Do you also use the Super Veg when u veg
H
headband707
Guest
I see your saying use Cal Mag everyother week? I would have thought with all these nutes you would use it for every watering? I'm I wrong? peace out Headband707
The Kind Man
- 92
- 18
Surfguy1936:
Yes I use SVA & SVB during Veg starting off at a 1/4 strength and it goes up from there (usually caping out at 3/4 strength), as well as Vitamax at 5 mL per gallon, Hygrozyme at 5 mL per gallon, Protetk at .5 mL per gallon, Piranha & Tarantula @ full strength (I'll do Voodoo Juice once at full strength during the Veg, and more closer towards the end), & Cal Mag when needed.
Headband707:
You have to look at your plants, they will tell you if they need more or less Cal Mag. Generally speaking if your leaves are curling up they need more & if they're curling down its too much. And every other weeks watering of Cal Mag might only be once for the whole week or it might every watering, it all depends on what they're telling me. That being said it could be every week too, it just all depends, but generally speaking I only have use it usually two times every other week once in the beginning and once in the end.
And no HB707 you are not wrong at all, some strains need it more than others, you just gotta see what your plant is telling you :)
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
Yes I use SVA & SVB during Veg starting off at a 1/4 strength and it goes up from there (usually caping out at 3/4 strength), as well as Vitamax at 5 mL per gallon, Hygrozyme at 5 mL per gallon, Protetk at .5 mL per gallon, Piranha & Tarantula @ full strength (I'll do Voodoo Juice once at full strength during the Veg, and more closer towards the end), & Cal Mag when needed.
Headband707:
You have to look at your plants, they will tell you if they need more or less Cal Mag. Generally speaking if your leaves are curling up they need more & if they're curling down its too much. And every other weeks watering of Cal Mag might only be once for the whole week or it might every watering, it all depends on what they're telling me. That being said it could be every week too, it just all depends, but generally speaking I only have use it usually two times every other week once in the beginning and once in the end.
And no HB707 you are not wrong at all, some strains need it more than others, you just gotta see what your plant is telling you :)
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
K
KUSHIEKUSH
Guest
Co2 is not suppose to go over 1600 since even proffesionals recommend never to go over that ammount. I don't even think its safe to go and do 2200 on your plants.
S
serato
- 8
- 0
Kind Man, if I'm reading your formula correctly, and I'd like to think I am, you're suggesting 54grams of Tarantula for week 1 (?). Advanced Nutrients has, on their official website, 50 grams of Tarantula costing around $32. Buying in bulk would, obviously, be cheaper no matter what product you're purchasing, but considering the variety of products you're using - many of which serve the same purpose - I'm afraid to tally up the total cost of the nutrients being used.
I'm wondering, would it be more cost effective and higher yielding to simply add another grow light and use a basic 3 part formula. Personally, I'd rather cut costs on feeding and use the extra money on secondary UV lighting.
Does 50grams of Tarantula really cost $30-34? And, are you really feeding a 4x4 grow 54 grams per week? I've yet to price out Piranah, but if I recall correctly, its purpose is the same as Tarantula (cloning/root enhancer) P.S - I just priced Piranah and it's the same cost as Tarantula ($32/50g).
To sum this up, I'd like to quote a line from the movie " Girl Next Door " : Is the juice worth the squeeze?
Lastly, the concept of ph drift is new to me. Just to clarify, your suggestion to help nutrients dissolve more efficiently, is to ph the water prior to adding nutes and then feed regardless of where the ph ends up? Example: I ph my water to 5.8, which is my target ph balance, but after adding the nutes, my ph is 6.2. In the past, I've always ph'ed my water, on average to 5.8, but only after adding nutrients.
Being an avid aeroponic user, who prefers to use very fine misters over the more reliable, higher micron misters, your concept of ph drift interests me.
Serato
I'm wondering, would it be more cost effective and higher yielding to simply add another grow light and use a basic 3 part formula. Personally, I'd rather cut costs on feeding and use the extra money on secondary UV lighting.
Does 50grams of Tarantula really cost $30-34? And, are you really feeding a 4x4 grow 54 grams per week? I've yet to price out Piranah, but if I recall correctly, its purpose is the same as Tarantula (cloning/root enhancer) P.S - I just priced Piranah and it's the same cost as Tarantula ($32/50g).
To sum this up, I'd like to quote a line from the movie " Girl Next Door " : Is the juice worth the squeeze?
Lastly, the concept of ph drift is new to me. Just to clarify, your suggestion to help nutrients dissolve more efficiently, is to ph the water prior to adding nutes and then feed regardless of where the ph ends up? Example: I ph my water to 5.8, which is my target ph balance, but after adding the nutes, my ph is 6.2. In the past, I've always ph'ed my water, on average to 5.8, but only after adding nutrients.
Being an avid aeroponic user, who prefers to use very fine misters over the more reliable, higher micron misters, your concept of ph drift interests me.
Serato
S
snowkitty
- 173
- 0
Piranha is Mycorrhizal fungi and Tarantula is beneficial bacteria. They are both benes meant by the manufacturer to be run together. They are certainly not substitutes for one another.
The Kind Man
- 92
- 18
Kushie Kush:
It definitely works amazing if you have a high light environment (i.e. over 80 watts a square foot), if you do not feel comfortable running it at that ppm then that is totally cool :)
Serato:
Yes it is about $35 for 50 grams and $54 for 130 grams.
Honestly it would not be more cost effective to add another light and use a 3 part base nutrient because another light and those nutrients are not making a symbiotic relationship with those roots, thus you are losing at least 700% of root growth not using Piranha.
And The Girl Next Door being one of, if not my most favorite movie of all time, hell yes the juice is worth the squeeze. When this nutrient program, electricity, and overhead only constitute maybe 15 - 20% of the total output, using this nutrient program doesn't seem all that bad.
But what it boils down to in the end is it takes money to make money, regardless of what business you're in. But if cost is a factor, which I totally understand, then you can run GH's Sub Culture M, pretty much the same just cheaper.
But honestly, if you're running aeroponics I would not recommend using these products since your root zone will get profuse enough without the use of PGPR's (Plan Growth Promothing Rhizobacteria).
And yes, pH drift is a must, since phosphorus is not readily bio available until at least 6.1 and over, as well as most of the other nutrients, so that drift is a must. Plus, that is what happens in nature, and isn't that what we are trying to recreate?
Snowkitty:
Good looking out, you're very true.
It definitely works amazing if you have a high light environment (i.e. over 80 watts a square foot), if you do not feel comfortable running it at that ppm then that is totally cool :)
Serato:
Yes it is about $35 for 50 grams and $54 for 130 grams.
Honestly it would not be more cost effective to add another light and use a 3 part base nutrient because another light and those nutrients are not making a symbiotic relationship with those roots, thus you are losing at least 700% of root growth not using Piranha.
And The Girl Next Door being one of, if not my most favorite movie of all time, hell yes the juice is worth the squeeze. When this nutrient program, electricity, and overhead only constitute maybe 15 - 20% of the total output, using this nutrient program doesn't seem all that bad.
But what it boils down to in the end is it takes money to make money, regardless of what business you're in. But if cost is a factor, which I totally understand, then you can run GH's Sub Culture M, pretty much the same just cheaper.
But honestly, if you're running aeroponics I would not recommend using these products since your root zone will get profuse enough without the use of PGPR's (Plan Growth Promothing Rhizobacteria).
And yes, pH drift is a must, since phosphorus is not readily bio available until at least 6.1 and over, as well as most of the other nutrients, so that drift is a must. Plus, that is what happens in nature, and isn't that what we are trying to recreate?
Snowkitty:
Good looking out, you're very true.
N
NuNRG
- 18
- 0
dam kind man ur the man !! hehe :) . just 1 question . u mix up all those nutes ph ur solution . then add the piranha , tarantula . usually when i use these 2 products , i mix it in a cup of water first to disolve then dump it in my 200 L barrel . can i mix it in my tap water like i usually do which is at 7.0 ph defualt , or should i ph that water to like 6.5 before mixing it in then dump it in my barrel. im growing in Soil . plz reply :)
The Kind Man
- 92
- 18
NunRG:
What's Happenin. I would not add Piranha and Tarantula to straight tap water without letting the tap water sit out for a minimum of 36 - 48 hours to let the chlorine evaporate off. If there is any chlorine present in solution, they will kill the beneficial bacteria's.
I would keep the pH of your tap water the same because within like 6 or 8 hours of brewing the beneficials will naturally lower your pH. Since you're in soil you would be in the perfect range without having to use pH down.
I put the Piranha and Tarantula in a ladies nylon and let it steep in the reservoir all week so it is essentially "brewing" all week exponentially multiplying. I have found even if I dissolve it first in water that when they multiply they still form a gunk if they are not in a nylon.
Hope that helps.
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsume Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
What's Happenin. I would not add Piranha and Tarantula to straight tap water without letting the tap water sit out for a minimum of 36 - 48 hours to let the chlorine evaporate off. If there is any chlorine present in solution, they will kill the beneficial bacteria's.
I would keep the pH of your tap water the same because within like 6 or 8 hours of brewing the beneficials will naturally lower your pH. Since you're in soil you would be in the perfect range without having to use pH down.
I put the Piranha and Tarantula in a ladies nylon and let it steep in the reservoir all week so it is essentially "brewing" all week exponentially multiplying. I have found even if I dissolve it first in water that when they multiply they still form a gunk if they are not in a nylon.
Hope that helps.
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsume Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
Crysmatic
- 529
- 43
Veg:
AN carboload 2-3 ml/gal
AN Revive 1 ml/gal
Botanicare Calmag+ 5-10 ml/gal
Botanicare silica blast 2.5-5 ml/gal
GH floranova grow 1.5-2 ml/gal 600-800 ppm
GH Floralicious+ 10 ml/gal
Oregonism XL 2 Tbsp/plant week 1
Roots excelerator 1 ml/gal
Superthrive 1 drop/gal
Foliar:
Every other day through veg, and week 1-2 bloom
AN VHO 2-8 ml/gal 200-800 ppm (veg only)
AN wet betty 4-8 ml/gal
AN Revive 4 ml/gal
Bill's perfect fertilizer as recommended (no instructions on web site)
GH Floralicious+ 10 ml/gal
Superthrive 1 drop/gal
Bloom:
AN Big bud 200-250ppm week 2-7
AN Overdrive 200ppm week 8
AN Revive 1ml/gallon week 1-8
AN Carboload 2-3 ml/gallon week 1-2
Botanicare Silica Blast 2.5-5 ml/gal week ?
Botanicare Calmag+ 5-10 ml/gal 200-250 ppm
Epsom salt pinch week 1-8
GH Floranova bloom 2.5 ml/gal or 800-1000 ppm (10 ml?)
GH Floralicious+ 10 ml/gal week 1-8
GH Diamond Nectar 5-10 ml/gal week 1-8
Hygrozyme 8 ml/gal week 1-8
Superthrive 1 drop/ gallon week 1-8
Vermicrop compost teas recommended dose week 3-7
Flush:
week 9:
AN Carboload 2-3 ml/gal
GH Floralicious 5 ml/gal
Hygrozyme 2 ml/gal
week 10:
straight water pH 6.0
I'm trying to make a spreadsheet and I'm finding the recipe confusing. Apart from inconsistent units, dates, products, and comments, some directions are contradictory, and some need research. Is this 'clarified' version accurate? In some cases I've added dates.
Why don't you use flushing solution?
AN carboload 2-3 ml/gal
AN Revive 1 ml/gal
Botanicare Calmag+ 5-10 ml/gal
Botanicare silica blast 2.5-5 ml/gal
GH floranova grow 1.5-2 ml/gal 600-800 ppm
GH Floralicious+ 10 ml/gal
Oregonism XL 2 Tbsp/plant week 1
Roots excelerator 1 ml/gal
Superthrive 1 drop/gal
Foliar:
Every other day through veg, and week 1-2 bloom
AN VHO 2-8 ml/gal 200-800 ppm (veg only)
AN wet betty 4-8 ml/gal
AN Revive 4 ml/gal
Bill's perfect fertilizer as recommended (no instructions on web site)
GH Floralicious+ 10 ml/gal
Superthrive 1 drop/gal
Bloom:
AN Big bud 200-250ppm week 2-7
AN Overdrive 200ppm week 8
AN Revive 1ml/gallon week 1-8
AN Carboload 2-3 ml/gallon week 1-2
Botanicare Silica Blast 2.5-5 ml/gal week ?
Botanicare Calmag+ 5-10 ml/gal 200-250 ppm
Epsom salt pinch week 1-8
GH Floranova bloom 2.5 ml/gal or 800-1000 ppm (10 ml?)
GH Floralicious+ 10 ml/gal week 1-8
GH Diamond Nectar 5-10 ml/gal week 1-8
Hygrozyme 8 ml/gal week 1-8
Superthrive 1 drop/ gallon week 1-8
Vermicrop compost teas recommended dose week 3-7
Flush:
week 9:
AN Carboload 2-3 ml/gal
GH Floralicious 5 ml/gal
Hygrozyme 2 ml/gal
week 10:
straight water pH 6.0
I'm trying to make a spreadsheet and I'm finding the recipe confusing. Apart from inconsistent units, dates, products, and comments, some directions are contradictory, and some need research. Is this 'clarified' version accurate? In some cases I've added dates.
Why don't you use flushing solution?
The Kind Man
- 92
- 18
Crysmatic:
That is SoCalKushTech's recipe. Maybe he can chime in and clear things up :)
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
That is SoCalKushTech's recipe. Maybe he can chime in and clear things up :)
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
Venom818
- 3,303
- 263
and i thought i used alot of nute's.
C
CAPO
- 1,322
- 38
That looks pretty good to me. Except I agree with SoCalKushTech on the flora nova bloom, you would be better off with bloom and micro separate. As for the flora nova grow I think the PBP grow does a little better.
As far as the superthrive and revive, I think subjective to each. I also think that the bloom enhancers could be changed from AN's to kool bloom or atami's bloombastic.
OG's are definitely hungry when they get goin and have special needs. The recipe SoCalKushTech so kindly laid out for us answers to this and makes for a reliable place to start. If one thinks that you can copy some one's recipe and have the same success they do you're a newbie!
Better to adapt it to your specific needs. Using the 'recipe as a guidline would be your best bet; as everybody's environment is different from one to the next.
Learn from your plants and you will never fail.
Peace, CAPO
As far as the superthrive and revive, I think subjective to each. I also think that the bloom enhancers could be changed from AN's to kool bloom or atami's bloombastic.
OG's are definitely hungry when they get goin and have special needs. The recipe SoCalKushTech so kindly laid out for us answers to this and makes for a reliable place to start. If one thinks that you can copy some one's recipe and have the same success they do you're a newbie!
Better to adapt it to your specific needs. Using the 'recipe as a guidline would be your best bet; as everybody's environment is different from one to the next.
Learn from your plants and you will never fail.
Peace, CAPO
R
robeartobrenton
- 99
- 0
what about light spectrum? do you run mixed spectrum ?
C
CAPO
- 1,322
- 38
Great question : I planned on doin a lamp bulb survey and just haven't gotten to one yet. Feel free to start a thread.
Some like mh to veg and hps to flower.Then there is some that try to use 'full spectrumk if you will. Such as conversion bulbs and super blue halides.
I use mh to veg and eye hortilux super hps to flower.
There's a lot of bulbs out there so the list would be big.
Crysmatic
- 529
- 43
i didn't mean to hijack your thread. your recipe was just so darned clear and organized that i didn't have any questions. not that i'm running ogx, it's just interesting to see completely different formulae produce similar results (in the hands of a skilled grower). most people want top quality, while minimizing overhead (and i don't mean compromising quality or yield for rock bottom cost).
thanks!
The Kind Man
- 92
- 18
Crysmatic:
Hey what's going happenin. Not a problem at all you didn't hijack the thread at all.
Check it out, this is not strictly an OG recipe, I just happen to get amazing results with running OG's with it.
I personally know people who run Bubba, Green Crack, Blue Dream, Chemdog D, Chemdog #4, Romulan, XXL Big Fatty, Odyssey, Dumpster, L.A. Confidential and a few others with this exact recipe additive wise with the only exception that they change the base nutrient values to get to their desired ppm's.
And boy let me tell you they do screaming good with it.
Of course you can get similar results, or even better, using different products.
If you really break it down there are only a handful of companies that supply the raw materials to make nutrients, which every single nutrient company goes to to get their raw materials. The only thing that distinguishes nutrient companies from one another is the ratio's they bottle their specific nutrients, not by what base ingredients they put in, as they are all the same, just in different proportions.
With pH's & Lucas's premix spreadsheet (it can be found by googling it) you can determine elemental values of your nutrients. When you download it read the Read Me, it is extremely helpful and it tells you everything you need to know on how to use the tool. When you find out how to use it, it will be one of your most indispensable tools you will have in your arsenal. You will be able to determine exact ratios of the NPK as well as Micros using any product you input into the calculator. If you have any problems with your mix such as a deficiency or toxicity you can easily determine what the elemental values are of the NPK's and adjust them accordingly in the calculator without having to guess and waste money mixing an actual solution and hoping it solves the problem. Amazing little tool :) And the best thing about it is you can input any product you want in it and it will give you it's elemental NPK value, which reallymatters.
In all actuality you could use General Hydroponics Flora Micro, Flora Bloom, along with Botanicare's Cal Mag and mix them in different proportions to achieve similar NPK values as you would with a base nutrient program with bloom boosters.
Example: Using 16 mL of General Hydroponics will give you an elemental value of N- 0, P- 106, K-161, Mg- 73, S- 49 which gives you a 389 elemental ppm value. Liquid Kool Bloom at full strength (10 mL/gal) has N- 0, P- 136, K- 260 which gives you a 396 elemental ppm value. See the values, they're slightly different but still in proportion.
Food for thought ladies and gentlemen :)
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
Hey what's going happenin. Not a problem at all you didn't hijack the thread at all.
Check it out, this is not strictly an OG recipe, I just happen to get amazing results with running OG's with it.
I personally know people who run Bubba, Green Crack, Blue Dream, Chemdog D, Chemdog #4, Romulan, XXL Big Fatty, Odyssey, Dumpster, L.A. Confidential and a few others with this exact recipe additive wise with the only exception that they change the base nutrient values to get to their desired ppm's.
And boy let me tell you they do screaming good with it.
Of course you can get similar results, or even better, using different products.
If you really break it down there are only a handful of companies that supply the raw materials to make nutrients, which every single nutrient company goes to to get their raw materials. The only thing that distinguishes nutrient companies from one another is the ratio's they bottle their specific nutrients, not by what base ingredients they put in, as they are all the same, just in different proportions.
With pH's & Lucas's premix spreadsheet (it can be found by googling it) you can determine elemental values of your nutrients. When you download it read the Read Me, it is extremely helpful and it tells you everything you need to know on how to use the tool. When you find out how to use it, it will be one of your most indispensable tools you will have in your arsenal. You will be able to determine exact ratios of the NPK as well as Micros using any product you input into the calculator. If you have any problems with your mix such as a deficiency or toxicity you can easily determine what the elemental values are of the NPK's and adjust them accordingly in the calculator without having to guess and waste money mixing an actual solution and hoping it solves the problem. Amazing little tool :) And the best thing about it is you can input any product you want in it and it will give you it's elemental NPK value, which reallymatters.
In all actuality you could use General Hydroponics Flora Micro, Flora Bloom, along with Botanicare's Cal Mag and mix them in different proportions to achieve similar NPK values as you would with a base nutrient program with bloom boosters.
Example: Using 16 mL of General Hydroponics will give you an elemental value of N- 0, P- 106, K-161, Mg- 73, S- 49 which gives you a 389 elemental ppm value. Liquid Kool Bloom at full strength (10 mL/gal) has N- 0, P- 136, K- 260 which gives you a 396 elemental ppm value. See the values, they're slightly different but still in proportion.
Food for thought ladies and gentlemen :)
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
The Kind Man
- 92
- 18
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,
Here is the link to pH's and Lucas's spreadsheet I was talking about in the previous post:
http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/premixppm3b.zip
Enjoy!
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
Here is the link to pH's and Lucas's spreadsheet I was talking about in the previous post:
http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/premixppm3b.zip
Enjoy!
The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
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