An easy treatment for spidermites.

Seamaiden · Jul 30, 2014

OD plants get hit by spider mites, and I would definitely not use it outside because it kills pollinators.

Just because something's used commonly in agriculture absolutely does not mean it's not toxic. You know that one of the ag chem companies (I think Monsanto, yay!) is trying to get a new cocktail approved, yes? Wanna know what it contains? Agent Orange. For ag use. No shit.

Prince Blanc · Jul 30, 2014

That does not come as a surprise. It is a proven defoliant after all. Never mind the proven risks! o_O

infocus · Jul 30, 2014

Honestly guys, you're much better off avoiding heavy pesticides. Ipm is a better approach. I understand that pesticides are not always avoidable, i have had to resort to them myself, but i have NEVER used systemics and don't plan to.

durian · Jul 30, 2014

Supercharge said:
Hate to say it, but smoking anything is going to increase your chances of getting cancer.

Yes, you shouldn’t have said that. i’d prefer to live in ignorant bliss.

infocus · Jul 30, 2014

Eat brownies instead. Lasts longer, stone’s stronger and don.t have to worry about smoking spider poo. or cancer.

Tuku · Jul 30, 2014

marz said:
I used them once and stopped after I watched the activity under the microscope. it takes a while for them to find all the spider mite, and all the time they do black poops all over the buds and leaves that you then have to smoke. Id rather take my chances with a spray .. but maybe not the heavy shit talked about in this thread.

How could you tell the predators from the mites? Did you actually see them eat each other?

Supercharge · Jul 30, 2014

Predators are colored different (clear to red, depending on variety), have longer legs, and a more rounded, streamlined appearance. Eggs are different, too - spider-mite eggs appear perfectly round, clear to amber in color (depending on how close it is to hatching), while predator eggs are at least twice as large, and colored slightly pink. Unlike spider mites, predators don't make any webbing, but they often lay their eggs right among the spider-mite webbing. Predators breed twice as fast as spider mites, so you should see a gradual increase in their population, and after a few weeks of increase, the spider-mites decline. Predators go from egg to adult in about 7 days, while spider-mites take about 14 days (depending on temperature).

carBon.14 · Jul 30, 2014

so what's a good natural alternative product? predator mites are expensive and only good in certain situations.

Purpz · Jul 31, 2014

Neem? It works for other pests, but I've never had mites. I've heard it's good.

goliath · Aug 1, 2014

neem doesnt work. tried it before and the little punks just come back

DarkSpark · Aug 1, 2014

if neem oil is not killing your spider mites it might be because you aren't applying it often enough or maybe you are applying it at the wrong time. Never apply neem oil when temperatures are above 90 degrees or when the plants are water stressed.

Rosenberg · Aug 3, 2014

Thanks for the info on abamectin. I have read various accounts of its effectiveness. If mixed with spinosad it is far more effective. Spinosad is not highly systemic but may transmit through the laminar of the leaf. Spinosad is supposed to have a relatively short half life.

goliath · Aug 3, 2014

whats relatively short?

Rosenberg · Aug 3, 2014

From a facts sheet online…“Under field conditions, spinosad dissipates rapidly from soil surfaces with observed half-lives of less than 1 day. Photolysis studies in the laboratory under artificial sunlight have revealed photodegradation half-lives of 9 to 10 days Spinosad present in deeper soil layers or shaded soil also degrades rapidly. Under laboratory conditions of darkness, spinosad degradation half-lives of 9 to 17 days (25 C) and 5 to 68 days (20 C)”

Plasma · Aug 3, 2014

So to recap; a combo of spinosad and abamectin as early into the flowering period as possible to allow for the half life.

salmon · Aug 3, 2014

Folks, I’d like to point something out about “half-life”. The “half-life” is the time required for half of the compound to break down. 1 half-life = 50% remaining, 2 half-lives = 25% remaining, 3 half-lives = 12% remaining, 4 half-lives = 6% remaining, 5 half-lives = 3% remaining etc etc..

~S

Plasma · Aug 3, 2014

So the half lives above mean that’s when 50% is left, not when it’s all gone?

salmon · Aug 3, 2014

Correct. That’s why it’s called a half life. It’s a curve.

~S

Plasma · Aug 3, 2014

I see. I always understood it that it was all gone by the end of the half life. I'm glad I've not used anything like this before. Thank you for enlightening me to this rather important fact.

salmon · Aug 3, 2014

Some more info from online:

Half-lives can vary widely based on environmental factors. The amount of chemical remaining after a half-life will always depend on the amount of the chemical originally applied. It should be noted that some chemicals may degrade into compounds of toxicological significance.

~S

An easy treatment for spidermites.

An easy treatment for spidermites.

Seamaiden

Living dead girl

Prince Blanc

infocus

durian

infocus

Tuku

Supercharge

carBon.14

Purpz

goliath

DarkSpark

Rosenberg

goliath

Rosenberg

Plasma

salmon

Plasma

salmon

Plasma

salmon

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