Mr.GreenthumbOG
Grow for life🌱
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Your getting it. Watering is the first and most important step!! Eventually the roots will spread, this week will be a big growth week. and the plants will take up more water.
Mr. G
Mr. G
What should I expect for a "big growth week"? I am just so stoked that they are alive!Your getting it. Watering is the first and most important step!! Eventually the roots will spread, this week will be a big growth week. and the plants will take up more water.
Mr. G
You would need to take a side view picture, a bit closer, in the pits/crotches of nodes. See below for example.Hi all!
Okay, today we made some good progress. I am going to put it in two posts.
First up is Large.... stat's. She is up to 8 1/2" so she grew 1 1/2" in 24 hours! Plus.... I think we might have some pre-flowers. I am including a close up of her top, since to be honest, I don't actually know since I have never seen the "hairs". lol So I am trusting you guys to set me straight!
You will need nutrients or amendments to get them to harvest. There are many options. Do you have any preconceived ideas about how you want to fertilize? Top dressing dry amendments (these will take time to break down in the soil to make nutrients available for the plants), or nutrients you feed when watering (immediately available to plants). Usually the first 4-6 weeks on FFOF has been fine with just watering, but after that, nutrients are needed.Today's update. They are all doing well, we got the additional CFL's added and had to increase the height of the ghetto set-up (lol). Ended up ordering a grow tent as there is no way we will be able to have all three (we really didn't think they would all survive) in this set-up. So it should be here early next week.
Confirmed Pre-flowering on the Large (bucket) girl. So excited. (Amekins - Thank you for the picture, that really helped) They all got water today again, PH 6.3.
Sprayed the soil last night ween the Neem Oil mixture to deal with the stupid gnats and have the yellow sticky cards coming early next week as well.
I am assuming no nutes for them since they are in organic soil, but will ya'll comment so I don't screw this up? We have the Fox Farms Trio that we can use if needed.
Yeah its kinda funny... the VPD haters all against it but they all use it without realizing it . Again its a guidline bit important to understand IMO. I also found the the indica like the higher KPA end of the scale (drier) and the sativas like the lower end of KPA (moist... lol just looking for a way to use that word... but really more humid)Aquaman read your post, very informative. I must say I didn't know about KPR and how it increases throughout the life cycle, but thought it was funny that you said people inadvertently follow it (through usage of domes, higher veg hum, lower hum in late bloom to prevent mold) because it was so applicable to me.
Going to snag up one of those guns too.
Yeah its kinda funny... the VPD haters all against it but they all use it without realizing it . Again its a guidline bit important to understand IMO. I also found the the indica like the higher KPA end of the scale (drier) and the sativas like the lower end of KPA (moist... lol just looking for a way to use that word... but really more humid)
It's a really good tool to have and use. Not only does it keep us closer to ideal it allows us to evaluate and see how changes to one variable affect others (like how increasing ir changing airflow will directly affect leaf temps) there are many many things you can tell by leaf temps that make an IR temp gun really important IMO.
Co2 needs drier warmer so yup makes sense. I always give non co2 numbers. With co2 transpiration slows because photosynthesis is more efficient so higher temls and lower humidity help increase transpiration and offset the loss of uptake.maybe they like it off the scale more than you are trying. Or maybe the scale doesnt matter like every humidity test i have read about marijuana. The plant is fully adaptable to humidity in a much wider range than the vpd chart.
if it was a real important thing (and i have only seen it in the marijuana industry after reading an awful lot for years about plants) wouldnt bruce bugby include it in his university grow lab guidelines? He does not. He feels keeping humidity around 50% is best. And he runs mid to high 80’s in temp with co2.
Co2 needs drier warmer so yup makes sense. I always give non co2 numbers. With co2 transpiration slows because photosynthesis is more efficient so higher temls and lower humidity help increase transpiration and offset the loss of uptake.
100% its a guide not a hard line and they can be grown well outside ranges and some strains will want to be outside. Always read the plants. Also knowing the VPD and leaf temps is greatly helpful in recreating the same conditions time and time again. Its the leaf temos that are really important not so much the room temps.
Temp is far more important than humidity.
But 100% agree plants grow outside those ranges and as I say we should go by the plants... VPD is a tool and a good guide to shoot for but by no means if you a bit out does it mean you plants will have issues. But it does regulate transpiration.
Like if he ran co2 in the 80s with 70% humidity that may cause an issue for him... not enough nutrient uptake or evaporative cooling for the leaves. He is using VPD but its been modified for higher co2 if he didn't care what the humidity was i dont think he would have listed it. I think its fair to say that VPD matters or we would not care about our RH at all.
Like anything its no unicorn or magic... just a tool. Sure its used just not outdoor. Im sure every single greenhouse tries to monitor and control humidity. The only think that changes was it was given a name and a method to calculate. But its just temp and humidity and taking leaf temps into account. Its pretty hard to deny those affect transpiration and stomata conductance to an extent.most growers following the chart say they run high humidity along with high temps with co2 and it magically fixed every problem. Pests, pm, tip burn
Magic!
It is not used in horticulture except for weed forums best i can tell. ;-)
Like anything its no unicorn or magic... just a tool. Sure its used just not outdoor. Im sure every single greenhouse tries to monitor and control humidity. The only think that changes was it was given a name and a method to calculate. But its just temp and humidity and taking leaf temps into account. Its pretty hard to deny those affect transition and stomata conductance to an extent.
The fact it has a name now and is measurable and more information on how it affects plants doesn't make some new magical unicorn
We can agree do disagree... so transpiration and leaf temp and humidity are of no importance? Yeah we can disagree... I can visibly see it in my grows when my humidity is out... pretty sure other can too. The science is there ya just need to find it i guess.i have only seen it mentioned in the new weed industry. I think it helps fuel unneeded humidifier and dehumidifier sales to new growers that will believe anything.
I dont see it in university info which likely means it is not peer reviewed as real science.
It actually bugs me you tell every new grower to follow it. Its silly. There is no magic pressure for the leaves. Plants adapt to humidity. And no benefit to adjusting humidity aside from mold protection has been recorded that i can find. Same yield at 35% as 75% in tests. For example. Even ed rosenthal and max Tested this way back in the 70’s. Nothing has changed.
We can agree do disagree... so transpiration and leaf temp and humidity are of no importance? Yeah we can disagree... I can visibly see it in my grows when my humidity is out... pretty sure other can too. The science is there ya just need to find it i guess.
Same as clones... why bother doing them right? They do just as well at 25% humidity.... I think not... sure they can root but thats far different than thrive.
And there is absolutely pressure in the leafs odk how you can say there isn't. That hkw a plant moves water... I really surprised you would say that