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Aquaman gets dirty

You do love a puzzle MIM. lol I want true facts posted if they are out there. The post i am trying to confirm is right out of 30 year old grow books but heavily challanged by extensive testing today. And I think the nute companies know but dont want...
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Aquaman gets dirty

by Aqua Man · Started May 4, 2020
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MIMedGrower

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#821
chemistry said:
You do love a puzzle MIM. lol
Click to expand...


I want true facts posted if they are out there. The post i am trying to confirm is right out of 30 year old grow books but heavily challanged by extensive testing today.

And I think the nute companies know but dont want to stop selling bloom nutes as it is half or more of their cannabis business.

The interview with dyna grow i have posted says no need for higher p after their tests yet the owner now is still recomending bloom nutes but now its to “signal” the plant.

So I want to know the real science here.
 
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Dirtbag

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#822
I'm curious to know the science as well. But at the same time, I'm extremely confident that increasing P before flower and the first couple weeks of stretch caused the plants to initiate flowering much faster than usual. I'm on DrGreens side on this one just based on my observations of how my well established strains reacted to it.

@MIMedGrower I know you have experimented with bloom nutes in the past but have you ever tried preloading K before flower and then going back to the grow ratio after stretch? or were your bloom nute experiments only using P during flower or just after stretch? Because that's what I have seen recommended a lot in forums is increasing P only after the stretch, and at that point it's kinda too late and can even be detrimental.
 
Last edited: Jul 10, 2020
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MIMedGrower

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#823
Dirtbag said:
I'm curious to know the science as well. But at the same time, I'm extremely confident that increasing P before flower and the first couple weeks of stretch caused the plants to initiate flowering much faster than usual. I'm on DrGreens side on this one just based on my observations of how my well established strains reacted to it.

@MIMedGrower I know you have experimented with bloom nutes in the past but have you ever tried preloading K before flower and then going back to the grow ratio after stretch? or were your bloom nute experiments only using P during flower or just after stretch? Because that's what I have seen recommended a lot in forums is increasing P only after the stretch, and at that point it's kinda too late and can even be detrimental.
Click to expand...


Sort of. Originally when i started to grow more successfully i just gave the bottle i felt they needed. So in stretch i might see the need for p or k more than nitrogen so i would give that. Same if i was low on pk at peak bloom. But always went back to the grow bottle cause there would be yellowing if i stayed with bloom.

However (and of course this is all in ocean forest) when i decided to try only the grow bottle regardless of what i saw it worked even better and faster. And thats when i started noticing the plants staying healthy and green longer and bloom times got a bit longer but with higher and higher yields as i learned to taper down strength properly. And to my surprise there were no negatives to the product when continuing grow nutes.

So i never bought another bloom bottle.


And here we are. :-)
 
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Greenjourneyman

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#824
So I’m a still working out the kinks of my on the fly mix in nutrients, these plants got a little too much of a P blast. I use a powdered product called pK boost for flowering cycle. Next time around I will have to try this pre-12/12 P fortification.
I was a tad heavy handed, one strain in particular is really showing the yellow purple burn colors.
 

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Dirtbag

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#825
MIMedGrower said:
Sort of. Originally when i started to grow more successfully i just gave the bottle i felt they needed. So in stretch i might see the need for p or k more than nitrogen so i would give that. Same if i was low on pk at peak bloom. But always went back to the grow bottle cause there would be yellowing if i stayed with bloom.

However (and of course this is all in ocean forest) when i decided to try only the grow bottle regardless of what i saw it worked even better and faster. And thats when i started noticing the plants staying healthy and green longer and bloom times got a bit longer but with higher and higher yields as i learned to taper down strength properly. And to my surprise there were no negatives to the product when continuing grow nutes.

So i never bought another bloom bottle.


And here we are. :-)
Click to expand...

I totally agree that N needs to stay up through flower, I dont dispute that one bit. And I acknowledge that all the plant really needs is balanced grow ratio start to finish. But none of that takes away from the fact that an increase in P can be used as a trigger to make bloom get going faster, and like Dr.Green pointed out the entourage effect of using P along with a photoperiod lag and temperature drop hardening has a greater effect than any of those tricks on their own. And the effect is even more pronounced when you grow in a fast growing system like Hydro compared to promix.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#826
Dirtbag said:
I totally agree that N needs to stay up through flower, I dont dispute that one bit. And I acknowledge that all the plant really needs is balanced grow ratio start to finish. But none of that takes away from the fact that an increase in P can be used as a trigger to make bloom get going faster, and like Dr.Green pointed out the entourage effect of using P along with a photoperiod lag and temperature drop hardening has a greater effect than any of those tricks on their own. And the effect is even more pronounced when you grow in a fast growing system like Hydro compared to promix.
Click to expand...


The plants i have grown flowered between 9 days and three weeks. Every time i have a slow flowerer it tends to take 11 or 12 weeks to truly finish. And are usually the best flowers in potency and complexity as well as yield.

Why is it better to trick the plant into blooming faster? My experience tells me that faster plants are never better. Just faster.

So I still think the only benefit is faster turnover. And i think longer slower plants develop more diverse cannabanoid profile.

Shame we only test for a few canabanoids since the entourage effect with canabanoids is obvioisly real.
 
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dire wolf

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#827
Is there going to be a quiz on all this stuff at weed camp ? , because I'm pretty fried and I just want to splash around and eat , if there is going to be academic stuff , I'm gonna start studying now .........
 
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newh

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#828
dire wolf said:
Is there going to be a quiz on all this stuff at weed camp ? , because I'm pretty fried and I just want to splash around and eat , if there is going to be academic stuff , I'm gonna start studying now .........
Click to expand...
I will share my footnotes with ya lol
 
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Aqua Man

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#829
newh said:
I will share my footnotes with ya lol
Click to expand...
Ok your in charge of notes. We will need a recap in about 6-12 months time
 
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Dirtbag

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#830
Most cannabinoids and terpenes are created in the last 2/3 of flower. We agree on how to feed cannabis during that period. The P spike, darkness period and temperature tweak are geared toward getting flower started faster, shortening internode spacing and just overall increasing the vigor during stretch. I definitely did not see any negatives, and saw a noticable improvement in flower onset.

I've seen people use this technique under 1000DE have flowers forming in literally 4-5 days.

Honestly try it sometime. Starting 5 days before flower till 2 weeks flower use 30% dyna grow bloom and 70% foliage pro, then go back to foliage pro. When you flip give them a full 24-36hrs dark and drop temps into the low 60's for a few days. You can do a few days temp drop at the end of stretch too to harden them.

Try that sometime and tell me it doesnt work.
 
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Aqua Man

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#831
Dirtbag said:
Most cannabinoids and terpenes are created in the last 2/3 of flower. We agree on how to feed cannabis during that period. The P spike, darkness period and temperature tweak are geared toward getting flower started faster, shortening internode spacing and just overall increasing the vigor during stretch. I definitely did not see any negatives, and saw a noticable improvement in flower onset.

I've seen people use this technique under 1000DE have flowers forming in literally 4-5 days.

Honestly try it sometime. Starting 5 days before flower till 2 weeks flower use 30% dyna grow bloom and 70% foliage pro, then go back to foliage pro. When you flip give them a full 24-36hrs dark and drop temps into the low 60's for a few days. You can do a few days temp drop at the end of stretch too to harden them.

Try that sometime and tell me it doesnt work.
Click to expand...
Doh!!!! I missed the temp drop... I even thought about it.
 
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Aqua Man

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#832
12 hrs of driving today... Forgot my back pills and couldn't smoke and drive... Get to wake up and do it all over again. Hope everyone else is doing well
 
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MIMedGrower

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#833
dire wolf said:
Is there going to be a quiz on all this stuff at weed camp ? , because I'm pretty fried and I just want to splash around and eat , if there is going to be academic stuff , I'm gonna start studying now .........
Click to expand...


Yes!
 
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Dirtbag

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#834
Aqua Man said:
Doh!!!! I missed the temp drop... I even thought about it.
Click to expand...
Always somethin...
 
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Aqua Man

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#835
For note sake I had buds I think 7 or 8 days after flip. No temp drop in the 60's.

Got that @newh ?
 
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MIMedGrower

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#836
Dirtbag said:
Most cannabinoids and terpenes are created in the last 2/3 of flower. We agree on how to feed cannabis during that period. The P spike, darkness period and temperature tweak are geared toward getting flower started faster, shortening internode spacing and just overall increasing the vigor during stretch. I definitely did not see any negatives, and saw a noticable improvement in flower onset.

I've seen people use this technique under 1000DE have flowers forming in literally 4-5 days.

Honestly try it sometime. Starting 5 days before flower till 2 weeks flower use 30% dyna grow bloom and 70% foliage pro, then go back to foliage pro. When you flip give them a full 24-36hrs dark and drop temps into the low 60's for a few days. You can do a few days temp drop at the end of stretch too to harden them.

Try that sometime and tell me it doesnt work.
Click to expand...


Ok. But after i do a run and get a harvest. Im going to stick with what has worked for me to get back going. Maybe even with ocean forest and pbpg and blue lemon thai seeds.


And botaniguard. Lol
 
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newh

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#837
Aqua Man said:
Ok your in charge of notes. We will need a recap in about 6-12 months time
Click to expand...
Im not in charge of nothin,sorry lol.
 
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Dirtbag

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#838
MIMedGrower said:
Ok. But after i do a run and get a harvest. Im going to stick with what has worked for me to get back going. Maybe even with ocean forest and pbpg and blue lemon thai seeds.


And botaniguard. Lol
Click to expand...

Fair deal. BUT... It might not be quite as pronounced an effect in turtle speed promix... You really need to turn things up to rabbit to see what does what with your own eyes.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#839
newh said:
Im not in charge of nothin,sorry lol.
Click to expand...


The new Mod says you are. :-)
 
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MIMedGrower

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#840
Dirtbag said:
Fair deal. BUT... It might not be quite as pronounced an effect in turtle speed promix... You really need to turn things up to rabbit to see what does what with your own eyes.
Click to expand...


i knew you were going to say something like that.
 
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