Aquaman goes COCO. (Mother hunt)

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Aqua Man

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Is the PPM breakdown something like this?


View attachment 1079481
No like this. It shows the individual nutrient break down. If you go to the 2 part one you can see exactly how changing the ratios affects each individual nutrient. When you add it to hydro buddy you can plug in your water report and know exactly where you sit using your tap water. I always need to add magnesium to bring my calcium to magnesium ratio to where I want

 
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gorillaglueaaron

gorillaglueaaron

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Anyone has any opinions on square vs round pots?
Sorry if this is the wrong place but I just didn't think it was important enough to start a thread about.

We need a quick question thread.
 
Milson

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That doesn't answer my question nor does that even mean anything.
In terms of root structure, does the shape of the pot matter?
Square pots have corners. Roots are all wtf.

I think. If someone is like "no you're wrong i explain" then cool but i thought that was why bonsai pots are rounded at the bottom or maybe I'm dumb.
 
Anthem

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Square pots have corners. Roots are all wtf.

I think. If someone is like "no you're wrong i explain" then cool but i thought that was why bonsai pots are rounded at the bottom or maybe I'm dumb.
I thought I had seen square in karate kid
 
Anthem

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That doesn't answer my question nor does that even mean anything.
In terms of root structure, does the shape of the pot matter?
I have never had a problem with square pots or the plants roots navigating the pot. If you take a close look at most square pots they have a radius in the corners so they are not really square. More roots is associated with a better overall harvest, or that is at least what some seem to think. YMMV.
 
gorillaglueaaron

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I have never had a problem with square pots or the plants roots navigating the pot. If you take a close look at most square pots they have a radius in the corners so they are not really square. More roots is associated with a better overall harvest, or that is at least what some seem to think. YMMV.
Thank you, that's what I was looking for.
 
Greenthumbskunk

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Ah ha! I was wondering why part B of front row ag developed a "wet" texture to it. I wasn't sure what was causing it to be hygroscopic. Once I put it in an air tight tote, it seemed to stop pulling moisture. Luckily it didn't get rock hard or anything, but it certainly picked up some moisture while living in the original bag.

Do you follow manufacturer recommendations for making concentrated solutions or do you throw n parts salts into h parts water, then determine the volume you need to use from that concentration? If the latter, have you noticed any issues with more water soluble varieties hitting a field capacity (maximum concentrated level by volume) at a certain ratio?

I spoke with front row ag, asking how I could make concentrates and the numbers they said to use for salts-per-gallon seemed way too high. Something like 880 grams part A to one gallon and 900 grams part B to one gallon. What are your thoughts?

Like you, I'm sick of dumping little bits of salts here and there whenever I weigh out, which is weekly and soon to be every few days. Having a liquid concentrate would be much more time and resource efficient.


I make my own but what you can do is take exactly one gal of water and put 1 nute you use and the dose you normally use dry. Check the ppm and write down what it is. If you use another nute do the same thing if a third do it as well. Each one in their own separate 1 gal solution not together. Write down the ppm of each one.

Normally you mix 1 lb of dry ferts per gal for a concentrated solution, I use 5 gal so 5 lbs. Then you take your mix after everything is dissolved and measure out a few ML at a time and put it in a gal of water of course. Add up the ML you use to achieve the exact same PPM level you measured when it was dry.
Now you have you mix.
You now know if you need 10 ml per gal or 12 or whatever it is per gal to achieve your desired ppm level.
 
Dirtbag

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Imo if it holds media it works.
Shape is far less important than height vs diameter. Every media has slightly different water column properties and different water tables or saturated zones. In most cases pots that are slightly taller than they are wide is preferred unless using root pruning smart pots or fabrics in which case Id prefer about equal height and width, or for larger pots slightly wider than they are tall. Round, square, triangle, doesnt matter. Just dont plant them in a spherical container 🤣
 
Aqua Man

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Shape is far less important than height vs diameter. Every media has slightly different water column properties and different water tables or saturated zones. In most cases pots that are slightly taller than they are wide is preferred unless using root pruning smart pots or fabrics in which case Id prefer about equal height and width, or for larger pots slightly wider than they are tall. Round, square, triangle, doesnt matter. Just dont plant them in a spherical container 🤣
Makes perfect sense.
 
Dirtbag

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Should also point out that with media that uses smaller containers like wool and coco that has excellent air holding capacity even in the saturated zone, and gets fed multiple times a day, it makes very little difference at all.
The only thing you really dont want to do, is use very shallow and wide pots with something like promix or soil because the roots will stay in the lower O2 saturated zone for too long. Not an issue with coco or wool, hence the use of slabs in hydro.

Otherwise @gorillaglueaaron, i dont really think the shape of the rootball makes all that much difference with the moderate differences in pot shapes and styles.
 
gorillaglueaaron

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Should also point out that with media that uses smaller containers like wool and coco that has excellent air holding capacity even in the saturated zone, and gets fed multiple times a day, it makes very little difference at all.
The only thing you really dont want to do, is use very shallow and wide pots with something like promix or soil because the roots will stay in the lower O2 saturated zone for too long. Not an issue with coco or wool, hence the use of slabs in hydro.

Otherwise @gorillaglueaaron, i dont really think the shape of the rootball makes all that much difference with the moderate differences in pot shapes and styles.
I'm planning a micro grow and I was planning to use a pretty shallow container. Can I not use soil in it?
 
Dirtbag

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I'm planning a micro grow and I was planning to use a pretty shallow container. Can I not use soil in it?

With soil Id just be careful not to go too shallow. If it takes the plant 3-5 days to use up the water the roots will be O2 starved if 80% of the root mass is in the saturated zone.

This video explains in a roundabout way why a shallow rootzone isnt good for soil grown plants. Its about rocks in pots and perched water tables but i think if you watch this you will understand better what im getting at.

 
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