WankirA
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Most likely, none of them will autoflower. However, they will all carry the RECESSIVE gene for it. Key word is recessive. As far as I know, there are no plants that have a dominant gene for autoflowering. So, you have to breed the dominant PHOTOPERIOD gene out of it, so that the plant only has a homozygous pair of recessive autoflowering genes.
You would have to grow some of these new seeds of yours, select your best male and cross it with one or two of your best females. Neither will autoflower. I would select for fast growing, thick stems, and short bushy shape. Make seeds with those. This is the second generation.
Out of that batch of seeds, you should get about 25% automatic plants.
Keep crossing your best autoflower plants together, generation after generation, and you will get batches of seeds that are more and more auto flowering. Like this...
Accidental cross = 0% automatic seeds.
2nd generation = 25% auto
3rd generation = 50% auto
4th generation = 75% auto
5th generation = 87% auto
6th generation = 93% auto
7th generation = 97% auto
8th generation = 98% auto
9th generation = 99% auto
In theory, you could never get to 100%. Just keep crossing your best plants with each other and develop your own breed.
Good luck :)
Blue is fine during the early veg cycle, although it's not what you want when you start into flowering. Some of the newer LED lights are coming out full spectrum are probably the best way forward TBH. These look blue in the picture, but they have full spectrum also, I've currently got them running on flower now that they've started in that direction.Are blue lights the way to go using LED with that feature?
Reason I ask is I have some LEDs that are full spectrum and also have some 4-5 week old seedlings. My LED has 3 features 1 where its white light on what I'd call a medium brightness, then 2nd mode is brighter, then a 3rd which is blue. So wondering if the brightest or blue mode would be best. I take them outside for most the day but if it rains or looks nasty I bring then inside under the lights as to give them more then 12/12.
Reason I ask is I have some LEDs that are full spectrum and also have some 4-5 week old seedlings. My LED has 3 features 1 where its white light on what I'd call a medium brightness, then 2nd mode is brighter, then a 3rd which is blue. So wondering if the brightest or blue mode would be best. I take them outside for most the day but if it rains or looks nasty I bring then inside under the lights as to give them more then 12/12.
Bro I'm a new grower so you just went full nerd on me. Lol. In being a new grower I just want seeds that I know will be autos and no other worries.
I got some of this from ebay. I've got a Critical photoperiod (clones), and some FastBuds autoflower seeds I want to try with it. https://twenty20mendocino.com/stsI also thought I read somewhere in here that your feminizing the seed stock, If so, I would follow this recipe, as it is better than anything you can possibly purchase on the internet.
ITEMS YOU WILL NEED WHEN MAKING STS:
Mixing the A and B "Stock" Solutions
- Brown Glass Bottle and Sprayer Top (Pint)
- Trash Bag and Tape
- Digital or Other .xx Accurate Gram Scale
- Distilled or R/O Water
- (2)500ml500ml Brown Glass Bottles
- 2 Glass Mixing Containers (I used Pyrex 2-cup measures)
- Dawn Ultra Dish Soap or other plain soap/surfactant
- (2)60cc Syringes
- Silver Nitrate
- Sodium Thiosulfate (AnhydrousAnhydrous or Pentahydrate)
- Painter's Mask
- Gloves
STS is stored as two solutions, A & B. When kept sealed, cool and without exposure to light, they are very stable. Separately, they can be stored for months without issue. Once mixed their life span is about 1 month, but only if kept cool, sealed and in the dark. ;) This mix is diluted with r/o water before spraying on plants.
Stock Solution A
Stock Solution B
- Fill the pyrex 2-cup measure to the 500ml line with r/o water
- Measure .5 Grams of Silver Nitrate using the digital scale
- Slowly pour the silver nitrate crystals in to the 500ml of r/o water while stirring
- Stir until dissolved (15 seconds)
- Pour the solution in to the 500ml brown glass bottle and cap it tightly
- LABEL the bottle "STS PART A" in a clear and long lasting fashion
- Thoroughly wash and rinse the pyrex measuring cup
I store these solutions in the 500ml brown glass bottles and mix fresh before diluting for spraying. It is best to keep them in the fridge. ;)
- Fill the pyrex 2-cup measure to the 500ml mark with r/o water
- Measure 2.5 Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous OR 3.9Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate
- Add the Sodium Thiosulfate to the r/o water while stirring
- Stir until completely dissolved (30-45 seconds)
- Pour the Sodium Thiosulfate solution in to a 500ml brown glass bottle and cap it tightly
- LABEL the bottle "STS PART B" in a clear and long lasting fashion
- Throughly wash and rinse the pyrex measuring cup
Mixing and Diluting the Stock Solutions Before Spraying
ALWAYS Mix Part A in to Part B! This means putting part B in a container first and then adding part A while stirring. The measurements listed here make 1 quart, which fits the size of the sprayer and bottles I posted above. This amount provides plenty of solution for a 2' tall plant, sprayed every 5 days for 30 days.
When stored in a dark cool place, the mixed solution is effective for approximately 1 month. The A and B solutions will be effective for at least 6 months.
For 1 Quart of Solution: which will fit the sprayer listed:
REMEMBER it's IMPORTANT to DILUTE!
- Use a 60cc syringe and suck up 50ml of Part B solution
- Gently squirt the Part B solution in to the Pyrex measuring cup
- Completely rinse the syringe or use a second clean syringe
- Suck up 50cc of Part B Solution
- While stirring the stock solution in the measuring cup rapidly (I use a small Stainless Steel Whisk), gently squirt the 50cc's of Part A solution in to the measuring cup. Go slowly, yet quickly enough to completely mix them within 30 seconds.
Without dilution this solution will burn plants When the above directions are followed you will have 100ml of mixed stock solution in a pyrex measuring cup. Pour this solution into the 1 quart, brown glass bottle with the sprayer top and then fill the bottle the rest of the way with r/o or distilled water. (800+ml)
This dilution rate is very close to a 1:9, stock:water mixture. Add 6-10 drops of Dawn Ultra dish soap (or other soap/surfactant, some people use yucca extract), shake gently and spray until the soap mixture is being sprayed. Test it on a leaf. The mixture should stick to the leaf without beading up and rolling off.
If necessary, add additional drops of soap until the solution sticks/spreads well. You can also use Yucca extract as a spreader/surfactant, instead of the dish soap. (I cannot reccomend Tween-80 even though other have said it works. I personally cannot use it without having serious memory, mood and logic problems when exposed to the Polysorbate in Tween-80.)
Light Proof the Sprayer Bottle!
I know it's a brown glass bottle and a black plastic top, I still covered it further. Since I keep it in the fridge, there is definitely strong light when the door is open. ;) I put the sprayer in a black plastic trash bag and folded it in a few layers around the bottle, then taped it in place. It's not sexy, but it works. :) You can see it in the photo of the chemicals and bottles above.
Staying Safe!
WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTION GEAR, including gloves, mask and goggles/glasses. You'll want to keep this off your skin and out of your mouth/lungs. Sodium Thiosulfate has no listed toxicity but it is an irritant with repeated exposure. Silver nitrate will stain surfaces brown, only light stains when mixed with sodium thiosulfate and diluted.
I sprayed my hand once, it felt 'cold' for days. Not a good sign, so I'm careful to protect myself from spray and inhalation. The solution rinses off of gloves and surfaces just fine, change out of any clothing you accidentally spill it on.
Spraying Methods and Schedule
That being said, the process of treating your plants with STS is very straightforward. There's debate about spraying each node or using an eye-dropper on each node. I use the spray method and I know it works.
- Spray Every 5 Days After Lights Out
Silver Thiosulfate stops the production of ethylene. This effect only lasts a few days in cannabis and spraying every 5 days keeps ethylene production the lowest. Turn off the main lights and spray before the night cycle. Silver thiosulfate is sensitive to light, so low lighting and then dark works well.- Dilute Further if Burning/Yellowing Develops
Some strains/phenotypes of cannabis are more sensitive than others. Should yellowing or burning develop, pour out some of the solution in the sprayer (with lots of rinse water down the drain) and add distilled or r/o water.- Keep STS Out of the Root Zone
Cover the base area of the plant with newspapers before spraying. Make sure the plant has completely stopped dripping before removing the newspapers or other barriers.- Saturate Each Node With Spray
The nodes are located at each spot where a leaf joins a branch. During vegetative growth, each node will eventually produce another branch. During flowering, each node produces flowers.- Turn Off Fans Before Pollen Begins Dropping
Pollen is insidious and will float in to every crack and corner of your house. HEPA filtered ventilation (even HEPA rated furnace filters work) will significantly reduce the spread of pollen. Spray down all pollen covered areas with clean water to deactivate pollen.- Dilute Solution if Plants Show Burning
A slight reaction is fine, while severe reactions require diluting with additional distilled or r/o water. Open up the spray bottle and top it off with about 1/3rd of a cup of distilled or r/o water. Pour a bit out first, if there won't be room.
I got some of this from ebay. I've got a Critical photoperiod (clones), and some FastBuds autoflower seeds I want to try with it. https://twenty20mendocino.com/sts
Gonna start spraying bottom branches after 2 weeks, and hope those bloom male flowers when the rest of the plant is flowering.
I did look those ingredients in your post up, and its pretty cheap to make a lot. I may make some of my own in the future.
A lot of time has passed but I just wanted to note that while everything said is true regarding improbability of having auto-like seeds right out of the gate; I have had that occur. A few years ago I was running a shiva skunk that got really stressed out and pollinated EVERYTHING. I tried a few for fun in a side project, all well labeled. The intriguing part is that it pollinated a Blue Widow dinafem brand. The seeds from that I did shortly later one of which ended up being a male not too bad considering just 1 of the 5 I did though. I had an auto zkittlez and an auto BlackBerry pollinated by the Shiva Skunk x Blue Widow male. Every seed related to either plant of which there were many, flowered immediately.So.. I've been growing outside for a while now (off and on for 30 years. more lately), and propagating my own seeds every year for next years batch. This year I bought and planted 4 feminized autoflower seeds of various strains and kept them with my regular grow. All my regular plants are mutt hybrids and I didn't know what strain they were when i got the seeds and they really are a mixed bag at this point lol, more like "bush" weed now.
So I had a male plant for seeding that I thought was far enough away doing its job with my "seed" plants for next year, but some pollen made its way to my autoflowers and after trimming my four plants last night, it looks like about 125 nice fat seeds were produced.
I've done some searching but can't find a definitive answer.
Will any of these new seeds be autoflowers as well?
Yeah, I had my eye on him for awhile, but I'm pretty happy with my current experiments, and they are mostly now in regular form, so I can keep breeding them.You can polinate autos, in fact you can buy un feminized auto seeds for breeding. 420 seed guy sells several strains of un feminized autoflowers including sour 60 by Mdanzig and durban poison however after time goes by and you grow a few generations you may lose the feminization.
I never did update. The stuff from Mendicino worked great!Yea, actually the type you bought needs to be used in a few months, if you've got them in separate bottles in a "premix' solution you can store if for longer. Those are in dark bottles, so that's good, but keep it out of sunlight, as that will inactivate it faster.
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