Autoflower pollinated by regular plant. Seeds?

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WankirA

WankirA

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Well I did as i said and got my Godberry (photo fem) pollen and shared the love over flowering clones: Krippleshock, Godberry n Hulkberry, but no idea if pollen even viable so guess its a wait now.
However, I didn't plan the timing very well, so doing another set in a more 'organized approach'..

So this time, I have a Hulkberry and a Godberry clone I've grown out to about a foot high.
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And am spraying them at lights on/off with CS and flipped last night, so need about 20 days to get Nanners growing and a week or two after that for the pollen to mature..
Last time I did one branch and I had to cut and remove In case it germed my flower tent (which left me puzzling should I treat as a plant or clone?!) - this time the whole plant (with roots) is being sprayed which should ensure pollen will more likely be viable. And with 2 sets of pollen I can go crazy..
(I still have Trainwreck/Zkittlez/JackH/ Diesel/Banana Tangie/GSC and a few others besides so Lott's of pollen chucking coming up...

Btw can anyone confirm: I have a 3 creme caramel auto beans but if I use pollen from one of them to pollinate another of same strain, will the seeds be autos too?!
I suspect they will be but confirmation would help.
Have a great day folks
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Most likely, none of them will autoflower. However, they will all carry the RECESSIVE gene for it. Key word is recessive. As far as I know, there are no plants that have a dominant gene for autoflowering. So, you have to breed the dominant PHOTOPERIOD gene out of it, so that the plant only has a homozygous pair of recessive autoflowering genes.

You would have to grow some of these new seeds of yours, select your best male and cross it with one or two of your best females. Neither will autoflower. I would select for fast growing, thick stems, and short bushy shape. Make seeds with those. This is the second generation.

Out of that batch of seeds, you should get about 25% automatic plants.

Keep crossing your best autoflower plants together, generation after generation, and you will get batches of seeds that are more and more auto flowering. Like this...

Accidental cross = 0% automatic seeds.
2nd generation = 25% auto
3rd generation = 50% auto
4th generation = 75% auto
5th generation = 87% auto
6th generation = 93% auto
7th generation = 97% auto
8th generation = 98% auto
9th generation = 99% auto

In theory, you could never get to 100%. Just keep crossing your best plants with each other and develop your own breed.

Good luck :)

I took the exact opposite approach. using photo-period pollen and autoflowering females (various different kinds) then added a huge kush as the male.
So far, I've got 8 males (all autoflowers) and 13 females. (I used a feminized photo-period, and ended up with 1/3 males) none are herm btw.

Jurys is still out on how many are auto's, but I think there might be 2 that are not, if squat looking plants mean anything, I should know by the end of the week, as a few females are starting to flower at the writing of this. This is about day 24
 
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Frankster

Frankster

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Are blue lights the way to go using LED with that feature?
Blue is fine during the early veg cycle, although it's not what you want when you start into flowering. Some of the newer LED lights are coming out full spectrum are probably the best way forward TBH. These look blue in the picture, but they have full spectrum also, I've currently got them running on flower now that they've started in that direction.

It's not representative of the true light, it's more of a pink, actually. At least with the flowering side on, they do look blue when I've only got the veg side on only.
 
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B0ssD0ss

B0ssD0ss

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Reason I ask is I have some LEDs that are full spectrum and also have some 4-5 week old seedlings. My LED has 3 features 1 where its white light on what I'd call a medium brightness, then 2nd mode is brighter, then a 3rd which is blue. So wondering if the brightest or blue mode would be best. I take them outside for most the day but if it rains or looks nasty I bring then inside under the lights as to give them more then 12/12.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Reason I ask is I have some LEDs that are full spectrum and also have some 4-5 week old seedlings. My LED has 3 features 1 where its white light on what I'd call a medium brightness, then 2nd mode is brighter, then a 3rd which is blue. So wondering if the brightest or blue mode would be best. I take them outside for most the day but if it rains or looks nasty I bring then inside under the lights as to give them more then 12/12.

If you in veg, blue is fine, if your in flower hit them with everything you've got, especially the full spectrum and red diodes.
 
B0ssD0ss

B0ssD0ss

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Yeah I'm 4-5 weeks in. They are mainly outside day to day but where I'm at the afternoon thunderstorms are real. So outside from about 6am to 3 or 4pm then bring them in and under light tol about 9 to 930.
 
Frankster

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Reason I ask is I have some LEDs that are full spectrum and also have some 4-5 week old seedlings. My LED has 3 features 1 where its white light on what I'd call a medium brightness, then 2nd mode is brighter, then a 3rd which is blue. So wondering if the brightest or blue mode would be best. I take them outside for most the day but if it rains or looks nasty I bring then inside under the lights as to give them more then 12/12.

Yes, some will be auto's other not. From what I'm reading the best methods including using male (autoflowering pollen) on photosensitive females produce the best rates. But the one's I've done this round (photoperiod) pollen on autofemales has produced all autoflowers for me, from what I've seen at least, so far, since I've grown them out.

I'm reversing the process this time to try and stabilize them at this point (using both male autoflowering pollen and autoflowering females) this time around. ie. mating brother to sister. (best specimens of each)

All my progeny seems much thicker and larger this time around (like their photoperiod parent) but appear to be 100% autoflowers, so maybe I just got lucky, or perhaps I've simply not selected (among the seed stock) any of them that didn't take. I've literally got thousands of seeds, so it's hard to tell exactly what's happened with all of them so far. Plus, I had several different female strains that I was starting with. (only the male pollen was the same).
 
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B0ssD0ss

B0ssD0ss

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Bro I'm a new grower so you just went full nerd on me. Lol. In being a new grower I just want seeds that I know will be autos and no other worries.
 
Frankster

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Bro I'm a new grower so you just went full nerd on me. Lol. In being a new grower I just want seeds that I know will be autos and no other worries.

In the end you'll simply have to grow them out to see exactly which ones get the gene. I don't think it's been isolated in the genome, to my knowledge, so it's mostly by guesswork and accident at this point. Most of the research behind this (and all cannabis genetics) has only fired up in the last year or two, while the information might certainly be out there, it's probably being closely guarded by a select few people doing the research (for proprietary reasons).

Some plants are going to be a certain % of auto/photoperiod, so your basically trying to cram as much "photoperiod" genetics into your ruderalis without removing it's autoflowering gene component. That particular part of the gene sequence is likely only a few strings long (I'm really interested in knowing this, actually, as it's the million dollar question to me). It's probably only a very small expressive part of the overall genetic sequence.

There are 560,000+ single-nucleotide polymorphisms in Cannabis, and there are more than 10k strains of cannabis (all with some differing and varying degress of polymorphims). Genes encoding proteins involved in cannabinoid and precursor pathways are more highly expressed (ie. more genes) in some species than others. ie. Purple Kush vs ordinary Finola hemp.

Creating true autoflowering seed from two quality, true breeding autoflowering parent plants is easy for most. Breeding new autoflowering strains becomes more difficult when attempting to make a hybrid with a non-autoflowering strain. Some photoperiod/short-day cannabis strains are heterogeneous - containing the recessive day-neutral or autoflowering genetics along with the dominant short-day genetics. However a proper list of such strains is not yet available so most breeders treat all short- day plants as homozygous dominant.

A true autoflower is homozygous recessive for the day neutral genetics. Therefore, most crosses between classical photoperiod/short-day strains and autoflowers produce few or no autoflower progeny in the F1 generation. Regardless of whether the F1 generation produces autoflowering plants, the higher performing and similar plants need to be recrossed. This F2 generation will contain approximately 25% of homozygous recessive plants which are autoflowering. Still the few autoflowers produced are not always stable and may require further stabilization.

***Further complexities with stabilizing autoflowers has previously led to non autoflowering and low quality strains making it into the market.

Typically, heavy indicas like Northern lights finish flowering fastest, sativas slowest, and indica-sativa hybrids somewhere in the middle. Personally, I would suggest (as I do) and stick to breeding INDICAS into autoflowers, as they're going to be the most successful strains overall...

Stay away from trying to integrate Sativas, unless they are some sort of short day hybrids.

What I've been using (personally) is an Purple Afghan/Bubba/Hindu Kush of mine that's a known massive, potent prolific producer, and breeding it with as many varieties of autoflower I can lay my hands on. (especially with anything currently coming out of Europe) ie. Auto Ultimate, Ultimate X Auto Mazar strains, as those look like the most promising genetics, IMO.
 
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Frankster

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My best luck so far has been with all indicas. Here's my auto blueberry.
 
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Frankster

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Here's some of the problems I've encountered with mophology. Both of the following are the same seed stock, notice how one is correctly short and stout, while the other is lanky (too far spread out) with long internodes. (but it does appear to be budding ok). These are my purple afgan kush (auto)

So, obviously, I've got my work cut out for stabilizing the genetics (while retaining the good part's of what I've created) I'm probably 2 weeks or maybe a bit longer into flower.
 
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Frankster

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I also thought I read somewhere in here that your feminizing the seed stock, If so, I would follow this recipe, as it is better than anything you can possibly purchase on the internet.

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED WHEN MAKING STS:
Mixing the A and B "Stock" Solutions
STS is stored as two solutions, A & B. When kept sealed, cool and without exposure to light, they are very stable. Separately, they can be stored for months without issue. Once mixed their life span is about 1 month, but only if kept cool, sealed and in the dark. ;) This mix is diluted with r/o water before spraying on plants.



Stock Solution A
  • Fill the pyrex 2-cup measure to the 500ml line with r/o water
  • Measure .5 Grams of Silver Nitrate using the digital scale
  • Slowly pour the silver nitrate crystals in to the 500ml of r/o water while stirring
  • Stir until dissolved (15 seconds)
  • Pour the solution in to the 500ml brown glass bottle and cap it tightly
  • LABEL the bottle "STS PART A" in a clear and long lasting fashion
  • Thoroughly wash and rinse the pyrex measuring cup
Stock Solution B
  • Fill the pyrex 2-cup measure to the 500ml mark with r/o water
  • Measure 2.5 Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous OR 3.9Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate
  • Add the Sodium Thiosulfate to the r/o water while stirring
  • Stir until completely dissolved (30-45 seconds)
  • Pour the Sodium Thiosulfate solution in to a 500ml brown glass bottle and cap it tightly
  • LABEL the bottle "STS PART B" in a clear and long lasting fashion
  • Throughly wash and rinse the pyrex measuring cup
I store these solutions in the 500ml brown glass bottles and mix fresh before diluting for spraying. It is best to keep them in the fridge. ;)

Mixing and Diluting the Stock Solutions Before Spraying
ALWAYS Mix Part A in to Part B! This means putting part B in a container first and then adding part A while stirring. The measurements listed here make 1 quart, which fits the size of the sprayer and bottles I posted above. This amount provides plenty of solution for a 2' tall plant, sprayed every 5 days for 30 days.

When stored in a dark cool place, the mixed solution is effective for approximately 1 month. The A and B solutions will be effective for at least 6 months.

For 1 Quart of Solution: which will fit the sprayer listed:
  • Use a 60cc syringe and suck up 50ml of Part B solution
  • Gently squirt the Part B solution in to the Pyrex measuring cup
  • Completely rinse the syringe or use a second clean syringe
  • Suck up 50cc of Part B Solution
  • While stirring the stock solution in the measuring cup rapidly (I use a small Stainless Steel Whisk), gently squirt the 50cc's of Part A solution in to the measuring cup. Go slowly, yet quickly enough to completely mix them within 30 seconds.
REMEMBER it's IMPORTANT to DILUTE!
Without dilution this solution will burn plants When the above directions are followed you will have 100ml of mixed stock solution in a pyrex measuring cup. Pour this solution into the 1 quart, brown glass bottle with the sprayer top and then fill the bottle the rest of the way with r/o or distilled water. (800+ml)

This dilution rate is very close to a 1:9, stock:water mixture. Add 6-10 drops of Dawn Ultra dish soap (or other soap/surfactant, some people use yucca extract), shake gently and spray until the soap mixture is being sprayed. Test it on a leaf. The mixture should stick to the leaf without beading up and rolling off.

If necessary, add additional drops of soap until the solution sticks/spreads well. You can also use Yucca extract as a spreader/surfactant, instead of the dish soap. (I cannot reccomend Tween-80 even though other have said it works. I personally cannot use it without having serious memory, mood and logic problems when exposed to the Polysorbate in Tween-80.)

Light Proof the Sprayer Bottle!
I know it's a brown glass bottle and a black plastic top, I still covered it further. Since I keep it in the fridge, there is definitely strong light when the door is open. ;) I put the sprayer in a black plastic trash bag and folded it in a few layers around the bottle, then taped it in place. It's not sexy, but it works. :) You can see it in the photo of the chemicals and bottles above.

Staying Safe!
WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTION GEAR, including gloves, mask and goggles/glasses. You'll want to keep this off your skin and out of your mouth/lungs. Sodium Thiosulfate has no listed toxicity but it is an irritant with repeated exposure. Silver nitrate will stain surfaces brown, only light stains when mixed with sodium thiosulfate and diluted.

I sprayed my hand once, it felt 'cold' for days. Not a good sign, so I'm careful to protect myself from spray and inhalation. The solution rinses off of gloves and surfaces just fine, change out of any clothing you accidentally spill it on.

Spraying Methods and Schedule
That being said, the process of treating your plants with STS is very straightforward. There's debate about spraying each node or using an eye-dropper on each node. I use the spray method and I know it works.

  • Spray Every 5 Days After Lights Out
    Silver Thiosulfate stops the production of ethylene. This effect only lasts a few days in cannabis and spraying every 5 days keeps ethylene production the lowest. Turn off the main lights and spray before the night cycle. Silver thiosulfate is sensitive to light, so low lighting and then dark works well.
  • Dilute Further if Burning/Yellowing Develops
    Some strains/phenotypes of cannabis are more sensitive than others. Should yellowing or burning develop, pour out some of the solution in the sprayer (with lots of rinse water down the drain) and add distilled or r/o water.
  • Keep STS Out of the Root Zone
    Cover the base area of the plant with newspapers before spraying. Make sure the plant has completely stopped dripping before removing the newspapers or other barriers.
  • Saturate Each Node With Spray
    The nodes are located at each spot where a leaf joins a branch. During vegetative growth, each node will eventually produce another branch. During flowering, each node produces flowers.
  • Turn Off Fans Before Pollen Begins Dropping
    Pollen is insidious and will float in to every crack and corner of your house. HEPA filtered ventilation (even HEPA rated furnace filters work) will significantly reduce the spread of pollen. Spray down all pollen covered areas with clean water to deactivate pollen.
  • Dilute Solution if Plants Show Burning
    A slight reaction is fine, while severe reactions require diluting with additional distilled or r/o water. Open up the spray bottle and top it off with about 1/3rd of a cup of distilled or r/o water. Pour a bit out first, if there won't be room.
 
Jermamma420

Jermamma420

83
18
I also thought I read somewhere in here that your feminizing the seed stock, If so, I would follow this recipe, as it is better than anything you can possibly purchase on the internet.

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED WHEN MAKING STS:
Mixing the A and B "Stock" Solutions
STS is stored as two solutions, A & B. When kept sealed, cool and without exposure to light, they are very stable. Separately, they can be stored for months without issue. Once mixed their life span is about 1 month, but only if kept cool, sealed and in the dark. ;) This mix is diluted with r/o water before spraying on plants.



Stock Solution A
  • Fill the pyrex 2-cup measure to the 500ml line with r/o water
  • Measure .5 Grams of Silver Nitrate using the digital scale
  • Slowly pour the silver nitrate crystals in to the 500ml of r/o water while stirring
  • Stir until dissolved (15 seconds)
  • Pour the solution in to the 500ml brown glass bottle and cap it tightly
  • LABEL the bottle "STS PART A" in a clear and long lasting fashion
  • Thoroughly wash and rinse the pyrex measuring cup
Stock Solution B
  • Fill the pyrex 2-cup measure to the 500ml mark with r/o water
  • Measure 2.5 Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous OR 3.9Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate
  • Add the Sodium Thiosulfate to the r/o water while stirring
  • Stir until completely dissolved (30-45 seconds)
  • Pour the Sodium Thiosulfate solution in to a 500ml brown glass bottle and cap it tightly
  • LABEL the bottle "STS PART B" in a clear and long lasting fashion
  • Throughly wash and rinse the pyrex measuring cup
I store these solutions in the 500ml brown glass bottles and mix fresh before diluting for spraying. It is best to keep them in the fridge. ;)

Mixing and Diluting the Stock Solutions Before Spraying
ALWAYS Mix Part A in to Part B! This means putting part B in a container first and then adding part A while stirring. The measurements listed here make 1 quart, which fits the size of the sprayer and bottles I posted above. This amount provides plenty of solution for a 2' tall plant, sprayed every 5 days for 30 days.

When stored in a dark cool place, the mixed solution is effective for approximately 1 month. The A and B solutions will be effective for at least 6 months.

For 1 Quart of Solution: which will fit the sprayer listed:
  • Use a 60cc syringe and suck up 50ml of Part B solution
  • Gently squirt the Part B solution in to the Pyrex measuring cup
  • Completely rinse the syringe or use a second clean syringe
  • Suck up 50cc of Part B Solution
  • While stirring the stock solution in the measuring cup rapidly (I use a small Stainless Steel Whisk), gently squirt the 50cc's of Part A solution in to the measuring cup. Go slowly, yet quickly enough to completely mix them within 30 seconds.
REMEMBER it's IMPORTANT to DILUTE!
Without dilution this solution will burn plants When the above directions are followed you will have 100ml of mixed stock solution in a pyrex measuring cup. Pour this solution into the 1 quart, brown glass bottle with the sprayer top and then fill the bottle the rest of the way with r/o or distilled water. (800+ml)

This dilution rate is very close to a 1:9, stock:water mixture. Add 6-10 drops of Dawn Ultra dish soap (or other soap/surfactant, some people use yucca extract), shake gently and spray until the soap mixture is being sprayed. Test it on a leaf. The mixture should stick to the leaf without beading up and rolling off.

If necessary, add additional drops of soap until the solution sticks/spreads well. You can also use Yucca extract as a spreader/surfactant, instead of the dish soap. (I cannot reccomend Tween-80 even though other have said it works. I personally cannot use it without having serious memory, mood and logic problems when exposed to the Polysorbate in Tween-80.)

Light Proof the Sprayer Bottle!
I know it's a brown glass bottle and a black plastic top, I still covered it further. Since I keep it in the fridge, there is definitely strong light when the door is open. ;) I put the sprayer in a black plastic trash bag and folded it in a few layers around the bottle, then taped it in place. It's not sexy, but it works. :) You can see it in the photo of the chemicals and bottles above.

Staying Safe!
WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTION GEAR, including gloves, mask and goggles/glasses. You'll want to keep this off your skin and out of your mouth/lungs. Sodium Thiosulfate has no listed toxicity but it is an irritant with repeated exposure. Silver nitrate will stain surfaces brown, only light stains when mixed with sodium thiosulfate and diluted.

I sprayed my hand once, it felt 'cold' for days. Not a good sign, so I'm careful to protect myself from spray and inhalation. The solution rinses off of gloves and surfaces just fine, change out of any clothing you accidentally spill it on.

Spraying Methods and Schedule
That being said, the process of treating your plants with STS is very straightforward. There's debate about spraying each node or using an eye-dropper on each node. I use the spray method and I know it works.

  • Spray Every 5 Days After Lights Out
    Silver Thiosulfate stops the production of ethylene. This effect only lasts a few days in cannabis and spraying every 5 days keeps ethylene production the lowest. Turn off the main lights and spray before the night cycle. Silver thiosulfate is sensitive to light, so low lighting and then dark works well.
  • Dilute Further if Burning/Yellowing Develops
    Some strains/phenotypes of cannabis are more sensitive than others. Should yellowing or burning develop, pour out some of the solution in the sprayer (with lots of rinse water down the drain) and add distilled or r/o water.
  • Keep STS Out of the Root Zone
    Cover the base area of the plant with newspapers before spraying. Make sure the plant has completely stopped dripping before removing the newspapers or other barriers.
  • Saturate Each Node With Spray
    The nodes are located at each spot where a leaf joins a branch. During vegetative growth, each node will eventually produce another branch. During flowering, each node produces flowers.
  • Turn Off Fans Before Pollen Begins Dropping
    Pollen is insidious and will float in to every crack and corner of your house. HEPA filtered ventilation (even HEPA rated furnace filters work) will significantly reduce the spread of pollen. Spray down all pollen covered areas with clean water to deactivate pollen.
  • Dilute Solution if Plants Show Burning
    A slight reaction is fine, while severe reactions require diluting with additional distilled or r/o water. Open up the spray bottle and top it off with about 1/3rd of a cup of distilled or r/o water. Pour a bit out first, if there won't be room.
I got some of this from ebay. I've got a Critical photoperiod (clones), and some FastBuds autoflower seeds I want to try with it. https://twenty20mendocino.com/sts
Gonna start spraying bottom branches after 2 weeks, and hope those bloom male flowers when the rest of the plant is flowering.
I did look those ingredients in your post up, and its pretty cheap to make a lot. I may make some of my own in the future.
 
Frankster

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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I got some of this from ebay. I've got a Critical photoperiod (clones), and some FastBuds autoflower seeds I want to try with it. https://twenty20mendocino.com/sts
Gonna start spraying bottom branches after 2 weeks, and hope those bloom male flowers when the rest of the plant is flowering.
I did look those ingredients in your post up, and its pretty cheap to make a lot. I may make some of my own in the future.

Yea, actually the type you bought needs to be used in a few months, if you've got them in separate bottles in a "premix' solution you can store if for longer. Those are in dark bottles, so that's good, but keep it out of sunlight, as that will inactivate it faster.
 
DutchKills

DutchKills

4
3
So.. I've been growing outside for a while now (off and on for 30 years. more lately), and propagating my own seeds every year for next years batch. This year I bought and planted 4 feminized autoflower seeds of various strains and kept them with my regular grow. All my regular plants are mutt hybrids and I didn't know what strain they were when i got the seeds and they really are a mixed bag at this point lol, more like "bush" weed now.

So I had a male plant for seeding that I thought was far enough away doing its job with my "seed" plants for next year, but some pollen made its way to my autoflowers and after trimming my four plants last night, it looks like about 125 nice fat seeds were produced.

I've done some searching but can't find a definitive answer.

Will any of these new seeds be autoflowers as well?
A lot of time has passed but I just wanted to note that while everything said is true regarding improbability of having auto-like seeds right out of the gate; I have had that occur. A few years ago I was running a shiva skunk that got really stressed out and pollinated EVERYTHING. I tried a few for fun in a side project, all well labeled. The intriguing part is that it pollinated a Blue Widow dinafem brand. The seeds from that I did shortly later one of which ended up being a male not too bad considering just 1 of the 5 I did though. I had an auto zkittlez and an auto BlackBerry pollinated by the Shiva Skunk x Blue Widow male. Every seed related to either plant of which there were many, flowered immediately.
Like immediately immediately.
I germed 20 or so and put them in solo cups. A week or two later I transferred into larger pots not actually expecting them to be autos but knowing if any were; that pot transfer could* be enough on its own to trigger flowering and then I’d know right away. But within another week every single one of them no exceptions was starting to flower all under 24 hours of light reduced to 18/6.
I still have some of these seeds kicking around and it was a fun project though in the end I got about 5-12 grams dry per plant with like I said 18-22 plants under 3000 watt hps 12/12/8 foot room approximately.
So in other words, yes you can in theory make autos yourself without going 5-10+ generations out, but I wouldn’t expect any reasonable yield worth the effort. Sure they were done in like 65-75 days but not something I could ever consider devoting the resources to again.
It was just my last shiva last blue widow genetic remnants and I thought it could be cool combined with the ever popular zkittlez.
I would also note despite good nutes and lighting the quality was not as good as the original Zkittlez auto, which also wasn’t that great in my book.
My advice to anyone scrolling by this down the line is to put in the extra time avoiding autos and definitely not to waste your efforts trying to breed it out make your own autos et cetera. It would be cool if you could grab 2-3 zips each but the only way that’s happening is if you buy autos that are specifically meant to be strong yielders and you really do a great job training them, perfect nutrient regimen; indoor. I would never recommend autos outdoor unless you live somewhere that is going to be 70-90 degrees F for 6 straight months throwing them in the center of that idea span. Anywhere even slightly cooler Northern America Northern Europe you're going to get garbage out of the best mass yield autos when they are outdoor even under ideal conditions expect 30-60grams maximum.
Indoor on the other hand with a solid 1000 watts per 4-5 autos, you can see 80-120 grams per plant assuming they get a full 35-40 days of veg in and are the right strain meant to be larger than average yielders. I’ve seen many of the 2017-2020 autos meant for big yields only pull 20-35grams outdoor under ideal climate conditions for the given region, and not much better indoors with anything less than a couple thousand watts across say 8-10 plants.
Also note, all fastbudz advertising is way over-estimated weight wise. People say “it’s not like 10 years ago” when most autos yielded 14-28g, but truly it’s not all that much better.
There are many strains that flower quickly 7-8 weeks versus 9-11 and can get pretty large with less than 7-10 weeks of veg, I would argue it’s always going to be more worth while to take that extra time. Even two full runs on autos 70-90 days each with top tier seeds will be unable to contend with 1 run under the same conditions across that longer duration devoting the 120-180 days to a single crop of normal plants versus 2 rounds of auto flowering. The only time I suggest it is if you want to experiment and really really want something in 70-90 days to hold you over whilst waiting for your other stuff to wrap up.
Best of luck hope this helps someone down the line from wasting a ton of time and effort!
 
Jermamma420

Jermamma420

83
18
My F1 cross between RQS Critcal photo and Fastbuds Gorilla Cookies came out awesome looking, fat buds for solo cups, LOL.
I'm planting the F2's now.
I hope they don't come out as crappy as you predict. The first generation looked great, although in miniature form.
All my Fastbuds plants (dry) weighed between 65g and 120g each, under 600-1000w HPS light. I turned em up and down cuase of heat sometimes.
None got done when they said tho. All were done from 10-12 wks.
I agree, they don't do worth crap outside, unless it's the most prime time of the year, warm, and long hours of light.
I would maybe start planting nowish outdoors, like beans.
 
Edinburgh

Edinburgh

2,692
263
You can polinate autos, in fact you can buy un feminized auto seeds for breeding. 420 seed guy sells several strains of un feminized autoflowers including sour 60 by Mdanzig and durban poison however after time goes by and you grow a few generations you may lose the feminization.
 
Jermamma420

Jermamma420

83
18
You can polinate autos, in fact you can buy un feminized auto seeds for breeding. 420 seed guy sells several strains of un feminized autoflowers including sour 60 by Mdanzig and durban poison however after time goes by and you grow a few generations you may lose the feminization.
Yeah, I had my eye on him for awhile, but I'm pretty happy with my current experiments, and they are mostly now in regular form, so I can keep breeding them.
I haven't been growing autos very long, though.
I'm trying to make my own autos.
I have regular autos too.
Thats what the criticals are pollinate with. Half are Fems, the other half are regular auto x with fem.
I mainly use reg seeds for breeding, and I just buy fem seeds to cross with my reg seeds, and going from there.
 
Jermamma420

Jermamma420

83
18
Yea, actually the type you bought needs to be used in a few months, if you've got them in separate bottles in a "premix' solution you can store if for longer. Those are in dark bottles, so that's good, but keep it out of sunlight, as that will inactivate it faster.
I never did update. The stuff from Mendicino worked great!
I did further research however, and found some good info.
https://journals.ashs.org/horttech/view/journals/horttech/28/6/article-p743.xml These are testing Sativas. Most agree they turn easier.
But I didn't know what a mole was, much less how to adjust it, and confirm this recipe.
So I learned what a mole was (the combined molecular weight of an element), and how to add those together. Good, I reckon,
Then I found a couple of chemical supply houses that show the recipe for a 20mM solution.- https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/technical-documents/protocols/biology/silver-thiosulfate.html
Getting better, BUT THEN I found a
Solution Dilution Calculator!- https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/chemis...cal-library/solution-dilution-calculator.html
And this is my adjusted 20mM formula without using more silver than needed, like the above directions from Sigma Aldrich, for the 20mM solution.
I'm getting much better, consistant results using the 3mM and above.
I'm using 10 at the moment, and heard of people using straight 20mM.

Here's my recipe to make smaller amounts:
Concentrated STS solution of .02M or 20mM-

Use only Distilled water!

To make 100ml of concentrated STS:
1) Measure, and dissolve 1.264g Sodium Thiosulfate anhydrous in 80ml water,

2) and in a seperate container, mix .34g Silver Nitrate in 20ml water.

3)Add the Silver Nitrate to the Sodium while stirring rapidly within 30 seconds.
This is concentrated to 20mM. We want 3mM.

Making the 3mM(millimolar) plant spray:

400ml (16oz bottle)
Add 60 ml of concentrated stock to 340ml of distilled water.

200ml (8oz bottle)
Add 30 ml concentrate to 170ml water.

100ml
Add 15 ml concentrate to 85ml water.

The STS can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month.
However, preparation of the STS is best just prior to use.

Thanks to you and others for all the time, and experiences you share to help the rest of us!
 

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