Clyde4210
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Thank you. I have 25ml micro and 48ml of bloom in 3 gallons of water, 1000ppm. Roots are still dropping though. I seen a small pile getting ready to exit pot. There's only 6 roots in the water the rest are still in the basket. It would be nice to get 3 weeks more grow before it switches to flowering. I did cut ppm down to 800 and immediately noticed some leaf growth at a node.What you are looking at is new growth tips and they look bright yellow because they are hungry. You will see first signs of flowering at the nodes.
Get your numbers down to 500-600 ppm and see if you get positive results, my DWC experience was 650 ppm was as high as I could go. Also make sure to locate your air pump in a cool location if you can to keep your reservior temps downThank you. I have 25ml micro and 48ml of bloom in 3 gallons of water, 1000ppm. Roots are still dropping though. I seen a small pile getting ready to exit pot. There's only 6 roots in the water the rest are still in the basket. It would be nice to get 3 weeks more grow before it switches to flowering. I did cut ppm down to 800 and immediately noticed some leaf growth at a node.
I know I won't make all these same mistakes again.
Some color came back dropping ppm down to 642. I'll give it some time and see. Might have to drop it again I'm willing to go 400 if I have.Get your numbers down to 500-600 ppm and see if you get positive results, my DWC experience was 650 ppm was as high as I could go. Also make sure to locate your air pump in a cool location if you can to keep your reservior temps down
You gotta find the sweet spot for your specific grow, I like to wait a few days after any changes, 3 days always seemed to be when changes were noticeable, also when problems or mistakes became noticeable. If I saw problems I look back 3 days to see what I did and that seemed to usually coincide. If you can, find a way to get the res temps down around 65fSome color came back dropping ppm down to 642. I'll give it some time and see. Might have to drop it again I'm willing to go 400 if I have.
Thanks for the help
You gotta find the sweet spot for your specific grow, I like to wait a few days after any changes, 3 days always seemed to be when changes were noticeable, also when problems or mistakes became noticeable. If I saw problems I look back 3 days to see what I did and that seemed to usually coincide. If you can, find a way to get the res temps down around 65f
See some color came in. At the nodes I didn't have stems now I do.You gotta find the sweet spot for your specific grow, I like to wait a few days after any changes, 3 days always seemed to be when changes were noticeable, also when problems or mistakes became noticeable. If I saw problems I look back 3 days to see what I did and that seemed to usually coincide. If you can, find a way to get the res temps down around 65f
Glad you dropped the trio, lookin much better are you usin root guard? If not you shouldSee some color came in. At the nodes I didn't have stems now I do.
Thanks for the help.
Yeah I use 2ml pg of Hydrogaurd and 1ml pg of Calmag using ro water. Right now 550 ppm seems to be working but we'll see in a couple days.Glad you dropped the trio, lookin much better are you usin root guard? If not you should
Botanicare Hydroguard Bacillus Root Inoculant, Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGFH25...abc_EN3MRVSFE31HJ6D1BKS4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks, today I'm going to start fresh again but leave the Calmag out and cut the nutes in half which puts me at 500 ppm. I woke up to some pretty good growth, roots too. I started messing with it and got some more color after flushing the hydroton with ro. I read calcium salt will get in the root zone and lock it up. It'll eventually wash away but I wanted a jump start. Right now it looks like I got over watered and calcium buildup in the hydroton. Tomorrow we'll see how the flush worked. So far flushing the hydroton looked like it helped.Another fyi autos can stay at 18/6 light cycle for the duration of the grow there is no need to change it and bein a newer grower disregard any mention of flushing the timing has to be right and most newbies myself included tend to start the final flush too soon and the plant suffers
Keep usin the cal/mag especially since you are usin ro water, you want to bring the ppm up to 200 with cal/mag then the balance with nutes to get you to your desired ppm. You need to do this to make up for the missing minerals in the ro water this was explained to me by a guy at advanced nutes and echoed by another at General Hydroponics. You will regret leavin out the cal/mag it has saved me my spring water averages 20 ppm and I had a hell of a time till I corrected itThanks, today I'm going to start fresh again but leave the Calmag out and cut the nutes in half which puts me at 500 ppm. I woke up to some pretty good growth, roots too. I started messing with it and got some more color after flushing the hydroton with ro. I read calcium salt will get in the root zone and lock it up. It'll eventually wash away but I wanted a jump start. Right now it looks like I got over watered and calcium buildup in the hydroton. Tomorrow we'll see how the flush worked. So far flushing the hydroton looked like it helped.
Keep usin the cal/mag especially since you are usin ro water, you want to bring the ppm up to 200 with cal/mag then the balance with nutes to get you to your desired ppm. You need to do this to make up for the missing minerals in the ro water this was explained to me by a guy at advanced nutes and echoed by another at General Hydroponics. You will regret leavin out the cal/mag it has saved me my spring water averages 20 ppm and I had a hell of a time till I corrected it.
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