Aqua Man
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it means that from the beginning of vegetation to the end of flowering I can use NPK 20-20-20 or NPK 10-30-20 is betterExactly this ^^^ we are told by ppl who have interest in profits that that’s the case but it is untrue
You can use what you like. Im not sure why your posting this question or statement in this thread. Are you trying to say thats a better option? Im confused.it means that from the beginning of vegetation to the end of flowering I can use NPK 20-20-20 or NPK 10-30-20 is better
maybe you didn't understand me at the beginning of the thread where I ask if I can use Jacks 3g per 1 gallon when my Jacks is in a different concentration of NPK 20-20-20 thxYou can use what you like. Im not sure why your posting this question or statement in this thread. Are you trying to say thats a better option? Im confused.
I was simply trying to get you to realize that you cant just blindly accept statements made by these companies as fact. In answering you question i explained why i felt that way based on actual science not claims made for profit. It was not meant to be argumentative but rather educational
No you need to follow the directions on the bucket or better keep using the 321 you already have.maybe you didn't understand me at the beginning of the thread where I ask if I can use Jacks 3g per 1 gallon when my Jacks is in a different concentration of NPK 20-20-20 thx
godbless the wikiI love fertilizer. I work with big grows down to friends that have a single 400w light. I recommend the same thing to each and every one of them. It is used start to finish, so there's no following confusing feed schedules. A buddy of mine started calling this "The Recipe" because it is cheap, simple and gives some amazing quality flower.
It consists of:
1) Silica- I always recommend soluble silica like PowerSi or Grow Genius. If you are in a pinch, you can use potassium silicate, but you have to keep an eye on the pH.
2) Jacks Classic Hydro, Calcium Nitrate and epsom salt- This is your base fertilizer. It is 3 grams Jack's, 2 grams calcium nitrate, 1 gram epsom salt per gallon
3) Fulvic Acid- This helps prevent pH problems and plant stress and gives organic taste and smell. There's lots of watered down additives out there, but I recommend Mr. Fulvic because it is a concentrate and has fulvic, amino and organic acids.
The quality and yields are phenomenal. Depending on what quantities you buy, it can be $0.06-$0.10/gallon.
View attachment 1129079
Fulvic or Silica?Here's a quick summary of this thread.
Jack's 5-12-26 / CalNit / Epsom salt run at 3g/2g/1g per gallon will grow weed pretty damn good on it's own
The 321 measurement is 80% strength of Jack's recommended feed schedule of 3.78g/2.52g/1.2g per gallon
Is Jack's on it's own perfect? No but it's still really good and will take you to harvest. I've done it many of times.
Jack's 321 weakness (if you can call it that) is Calcium. You can run PureCal to increase your Calcium a bit. Full strength would be 3.8g/2.9g/1g (2.9g of Purcal Calnit instead of 2.5g when running Jack's CalNit). 80% would be 3g/2.3g/1g
The amount of Epsom salt is not set in stone, Jack's 5-12-26 already has quite a bit of Mg. Depending on your environment and lighting you may not need the entire 1g per gallon. In some situations, you may not even need the additional epsom at all, especially if running HPS. If running LED you can probably adjust the amount of epsom in between .5 and 1g per gallon depending on your environment.
When i ran Jack's I felt that my leaves were on the darker side of green. I always attributed this to there being too much N in my mix. Turns out, it was actually too much Mg. Again, this is environment dependent. Experiment a bit and find what works for you.
Not entirely necessary but you can add a K boost to your mix around week 3 through 6 of flower. Be careful, as you can over do this.. If you notice the tips of your leaves starting to burn or get a bit yellow, back off a bit. I'd get a few runs of 321 on it's own before adding stuff to the mix.
Last but not least, Fulvic acid.. Bill is correct, it's a great additive. The guy sells the stuff, so there's that.. That said, the addition of fulvic definitely helps with plant vigor and overall health. Completely optional but I'll always run it from here on out, it's a no brainer.
Fulvic all the way! HahahaFulvic or Silica?
Thanks JHere's a quick summary of this thread.
Jack's 5-12-26 / CalNit / Epsom salt run at 3g/2g/1g per gallon will grow weed pretty damn good on it's own
The 321 measurement is 80% strength of Jack's recommended feed schedule of 3.78g/2.52g/1.2g per gallon
Is Jack's on it's own perfect? No but it's still really good and will take you to harvest. I've done it many of times.
Jack's 321 weakness (if you can call it that) is Calcium. You can run PureCal to increase your Calcium a bit. Full strength would be 3.8g/2.9g/1g (2.9g of Purcal Calnit instead of 2.5g when running Jack's CalNit). 80% would be 3g/2.3g/1g
The amount of Epsom salt is not set in stone, Jack's 5-12-26 already has quite a bit of Mg. Depending on your environment and lighting you may not need the entire 1g per gallon. In some situations, you may not even need the additional epsom at all, especially if running HPS. If running LED you can probably adjust the amount of epsom in between .5 and 1g per gallon depending on your environment.
When i ran Jack's I felt that my leaves were on the darker side of green. I always attributed this to there being too much N in my mix. Turns out, it was actually too much Mg. Again, this is environment dependent. Experiment a bit and find what works for you.
Not entirely necessary but you can add a K boost to your mix around week 3 through 6 of flower. Be careful, as you can over do this.. If you notice the tips of your leaves starting to burn or get a bit yellow, back off a bit. I'd get a few runs of 321 on it's own before adding stuff to the mix.
Last but not least, Fulvic acid.. Bill is correct, it's a great additive. The guy sells the stuff, so there's that.. That said, the addition of fulvic definitely helps with plant vigor and overall health. Completely optional but I'll always run it from here on out, it's a no brainer.
PowerSi is too rich ($$$) for my blood and AgSil 16H just fucks with my pH too much. I might experiment some more with silica at some point but I've got my pH nice and stable with my current custom blend.Fulvic all the way! Hahaha
I will say this good mono will do more to improve the overall plant health and production than Fulvic in my opinion. But I have to be clear I have to foliar Fulvic so that could be part of the difference.PowerSi is too rich ($$$) for my blood and AgSil 16H just fucks with my pH too much. I might experiment some more with silica at some point but I've got my pH nice and stable with my current custom blend.
Mono goes into the water much faster than potassium silicate. Here is my normal routine. Drain Rez, start filling and immediately add Mono to the rez. It will foam only a little and as the concentration goes down the foaming stops, usually about 3/4 full. At this point I feel I can start to add the additional nutrients, base, Magnesium sulfate, Calcium nitrate, that hypo acid and PH. I usually check the PH 2 times a week and top off once.Not sure my lazy ass would want to foliar feed anything. haha. Are you foliar feeding fulvic with something else in the mix? I'm not sure it'd make much sense to foliar feed fulvic on it's own. I could be talking out of my ass but i thought the benefit of adding fulvic (foliar or root) would be in nutrient uptake/absorption.
Honestly.. Fulvic and silica are optional, IMHO. Might as well give kelp a here mention as well. That's another additive I'd like to play around with but never got around to yet.
I used up a bottle of Protekt a few years back and it did seem toughen up stems and help overall growth but managing pH was a challenge in my situation. I bought a bag of Agsil 16 a few months back to experiment with and the pH stuff was just as i remembered. I'm sure it can be remedied but i'm a bit lazy. I would like to try mono at some point since I read it doesnt fuck with pH like potassium silicate. Maybe use it in veg to toughen up stems before they pack on weight, if anything. How is it in your res?
With fulvic, I've tried using it both as a weekly drench and also in my res. Both approaches seem to work great, no fuss. No EC or pH penalties.
I wish @BillFarthing would jump back into the thread because I would like a ya or nay to this one. I believe Fulvic Acid acts like a bio stimulant and it does not require adding additional nutrients at the same time. I believe you can foliar feed and expect more uptake of nutrients as a result.Not sure my lazy ass would want to foliar feed anything. haha. Are you foliar feeding fulvic with something else in the mix? I'm not sure it'd make much sense to foliar feed fulvic on it's own. I could be talking out of my ass but i thought the benefit of adding fulvic (foliar or root) would be in nutrient uptake/absorption.
Honestly.. Fulvic and silica are optional, IMHO. Might as well give kelp a here mention as well. That's another additive I'd like to play around with but never got around to yet.
I used up a bottle of Protekt a few years back and it did seem toughen up stems and help overall growth but managing pH was a challenge in my situation. I bought a bag of Agsil 16 a few months back to experiment with and the pH stuff was just as i remembered. I'm sure it can be remedied but i'm a bit lazy. I would like to try mono at some point since I read it doesnt fuck with pH like potassium silicate. Maybe use it in veg to toughen up stems before they pack on weight, if anything. How is it in your res?
With fulvic, I've tried using it both as a weekly drench and also in my res. Both approaches seem to work great, no fuss. No EC or pH penalties.
My knowledge is limited on fulvic and humic acids. I believe in soil both are beneficial but in hydro you would only really use fulvic.I wish @BillFarthing would jump back into the thread because I would like a ya or nay to this one. I believe Fulvic Acid acts like a bio stimulant and it does not require adding additional nutrients at the same time. I believe you can foliar feed and expect more uptake of nutrients as a result.
@Aqua Man you know anything about this?
I know that you really only want to use humic in soil, because it helps the microbes break down materials faster, but than look at Dirtbag, he swore by that darn pond water in hydro. But I do remember @BillFarthing saying this exactly somewhere. I would not go against anything he has to say!My knowledge is limited on fulvic and humic acids. I believe in soil both are beneficial but in hydro you would only really use fulvic.
However i do recall reading something about fulvic being effective as a foliar but dont hold me to that.
Definitely an area i need to do sum of dat der learning in
The kelp is a source of tria…. For that i use massive by green planet. Its a natural PGR and trust ne you only want tobuse it in flower…. Ask me how i know lolNot sure my lazy ass would want to foliar feed anything. haha. Are you foliar feeding fulvic with something else in the mix? I'm not sure it'd make much sense to foliar feed fulvic on it's own. I could be talking out of my ass but i thought the benefit of adding fulvic (foliar or root) would be in nutrient uptake/absorption.
Honestly.. Fulvic and silica are optional, IMHO. Might as well give kelp a here mention as well. That's another additive I'd like to play around with but never got around to yet.
I used up a bottle of Protekt a few years back and it did seem toughen up stems and help overall growth but managing pH was a challenge in my situation. I bought a bag of Agsil 16 a few months back to experiment with and the pH stuff was just as i remembered. I'm sure it can be remedied but i'm a bit lazy. I would like to try mono at some point since I read it doesnt fuck with pH like potassium silicate. Maybe use it in veg to toughen up stems before they pack on weight, if anything. How is it in your res?
With fulvic, I've tried using it both as a weekly drench and also in my res. Both approaches seem to work great, no fuss. No EC or pH penalties.
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