Basics of Crop Steering/High Frequency Fertigation?

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Northdank67

Northdank67

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Yeah I've previously not had a meter for the media water content/EC so I've just tested runoff EC, during flower I feed around 3EC and after wk3 of flower I'm around 7-8EC (runoff). different stages of growth = different nutrient ratios = Feed EC fluctuates but I run high EC no problem, 3EC is the lowest I'll go before flush.
 
PlumberSoCal2

PlumberSoCal2

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Once you understand you can't over fertigate the plants the easier it will be for you.
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Fertigate those plants and you won't believe the growth but auto is the way to go😉
 
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N

newbeegrower

55
8
Couple things from experience, when the plant is trellised or scrogged in a net you can't lift the pot, so do yourself an eventual favor and learn to tell by sight touch and instinct. Most generic soil sensors are ineffective in coco and the ones made specifically for coco are expensive. Also, traditional "slow-drip" systems work fine with pure water but with nutrients it will have a tendency to gunk and clog. You can get a hydro halo and build a really simple pump/reservoir system for pretty cheap.
Where can i find supplies for a diy setup? I also havent determined my res size yet so is it true that if my gph of the water pump is too low that it will have trouble pushing water out of the reservoir? Also what should i be using to aerate the water if its a res bigger then 10 gallons and is maintaining a water temp in the res important? If so what is that ideal range? Im doing research before i make a purchase but i want to make a drip irrigation system for 2 5gal coco/perlite plants the strain is fast northern lights, potentially 4 plants for a future grow so id definitely rather have 2 extra extentions with shutoff valves then have to completely redo the tubing, or could i just add extra extentions for drippers in the future? Im assuming the most id be feeding a day in the future is like a gallon max but i havent really experienced it yet and im just going off of what ive read. Also not sure if this helps but i want to do high frequency fertigation.
 
Northdank67

Northdank67

51
18
Where can i find supplies for a diy setup? I also havent determined my res size yet so is it true that if my gph of the water pump is too low that it will have trouble pushing water out of the reservoir? Also what should i be using to aerate the water if its a res bigger then 10 gallons and is maintaining a water temp in the res important? If so what is that ideal range? Im doing research before i make a purchase but i want to make a drip irrigation system for 2 5gal coco/perlite plants the strain is fast northern lights, potentially 4 plants for a future grow so id definitely rather have 2 extra extentions with shutoff valves then have to completely redo the tubing, or could i just add extra extentions for drippers in the future? Im assuming the most id be feeding a day in the future is like a gallon max but i havent really experienced it yet and im just going off of what ive read. Also not sure if this helps but i want to do high frequency fertigation.
-yes maintaining water temp is very important if you dont want root rot. keep the water at 64.5f
-yes if the pump is weak it will have trouble pushing solution out of the res and into the drip lines
-use a air pump and air stone to aerate the solution
-a hydro store should carry everything you need to build the diy setup
-remember, no organics in coco grow. allso dont mix too much solution at once, you can have problems if the mixed solution sits for more than 4 days.
 
B

benjones

368
93
Yeah I've previously not had a meter for the media water content/EC so I've just tested runoff EC, during flower I feed around 3EC and after wk3 of flower I'm around 7-8EC (runoff). different stages of growth = different nutrient ratios = Feed EC fluctuates but I run high EC no problem, 3EC is the lowest I'll go before flush.
thanks for the reply @Northdank67

apologies for the late response
 
O

OrganikJedi

5
3
I been treating my first 3 gallon coco plant like soil. Watering when the pot is light. So I see I been doin it all wrong! Plant looks decent though, its producing. I guess I need to be watering s lot more if I want it to finish quickly? I just dont want to burn it using nutrients every watering.
 
_B_

_B_

58
18
I been treating my first 3 gallon coco plant like soil. Watering when the pot is light. So I see I been doin it all wrong! Plant looks decent though, its producing. I guess I need to be watering s lot more if I want it to finish quickly? I just dont want to burn it using nutrients every watering.
This is my first time trying daily watering and as long as the roots are established I think the plant benefits. Runoff helps keep EC down
 
N

newbeegrower

55
8
I rigged something up to water once daily until i can get drip rings and an actual setup. Ill probably order halos then considering my nutrients don’t fully dissolve (megacrop). I also thought about just running the 1/4” hose open ended.
You can make diy hydro halos, all you need is your tubing and a t barbed connector. Definitely cheaper and easier considering youll already have the tubing and connectors
 
PlumberSoCal2

PlumberSoCal2

1,416
263
I been treating my first 3 gallon coco plant like soil. Watering when the pot is light. So I see I been doin it all wrong! Plant looks decent though, its producing. I guess I need to be watering s lot more if I want it to finish quickly? I just dont want to burn it using nutrients every watering.
Start with 1/4 strength every "fertigation." Slowly up it every week until full, unless it's a auto then work up to half strength.

You want to fertigate at least 3 x's a day and it doesn't matter if the coco is still moist/wet it should be.

I use a 3 part nutrient called Master Blend designed for growing tomatoes. The basic nutrient MB plus epsom salts and calcium.

There are several different mixes for weed but I stick with what is the simplest and for me I make a 1 gallon concentrate of each: 80 gms of both MB and calcium and 40gms of epsom, each in their own gallon bottles. To mix fill a 1 gallon container (I use 1 gal milk, juice, water bottles) remove 1 1/2 cup and add 1/2 cup MB, 1/2 cup epsom and 1/2 cup calcium - IN THAT ORDER which gives you 1 gallon of nutrient water at FULL STRENGTH. So 1/4 of each would be half strength, 1/8 cup quarter strength etc.

Regular seedlings get water fist week
Wks 1-3 quarter strength
Wks 3-5 half strength
Wk 5-flip full strength
Flip fill MB & epsom, no calcium

For autos I half these amounts.

When fertigating your plants 3 x's a day you'll want to add enough water every time that you have at least 10% run-off (out the bottom of the pot).

If you want to grow trees in small containers and fill your storage containers with bud learn how to do this😉
20200405 073320

The above plants are in 1 gallon fiber pots.

The only drawback of this type of growing is the waste water. If you have a lawn or garden beds or trees it's easier to deal with but if the sewer is the only option it's still worth it.
 
PlumberSoCal2

PlumberSoCal2

1,416
263
Do you start feeding those seeds daily off the rip?
Water only first week. Seedlings don't need anything right away. And first fertigation should be very mild 1/8 strength at most.
 
PlumberSoCal2

PlumberSoCal2

1,416
263
I guess I should’ve worded that better. Do you water daily from the jump or let those roots fill first
Water the first week, just water. I'm using tap @ 220ppm and 7.0pH. When I add in the nutrients it becomes 5.8pH and 850ppm but I up it gradually.
 
N

newbeegrower

55
8
And drill holes in it

Start with 1/4 strength every "fertigation." Slowly up it every week until full, unless it's a auto then work up to half strength.

You want to fertigate at least 3 x's a day and it doesn't matter if the coco is still moist/wet it should be.

I use a 3 part nutrient called Master Blend designed for growing tomatoes. The basic nutrient MB plus epsom salts and calcium.

There are several different mixes for weed but I stick with what is the simplest and for me I make a 1 gallon concentrate of each: 80 gms of both MB and calcium and 40gms of epsom, each in their own gallon bottles. To mix fill a 1 gallon container (I use 1 gal milk, juice, water bottles) remove 1 1/2 cup and add 1/2 cup MB, 1/2 cup epsom and 1/2 cup calcium - IN THAT ORDER which gives you 1 gallon of nutrient water at FULL STRENGTH. So 1/4 of each would be half strength, 1/8 cup quarter strength etc.

Regular seedlings get water fist week
Wks 1-3 quarter strength
Wks 3-5 half strength
Wk 5-flip full strength
Flip fill MB & epsom, no calcium

For autos I half these amounts.

When fertigating your plants 3 x's a day you'll want to add enough water every time that you have at least 10% run-off (out the bottom of the pot).

If you want to grow trees in small containers and fill your storage containers with bud learn how to do this😉
View attachment 2185702
The above plants are in 1 gallon fiber pots.

The only drawback of this type of growing is the waste water. If you have a lawn or garden beds or trees it's easier to deal with but if the sewer is the only option it's still worth it.
Won't they get root bound??
 
N

newbeegrower

55
8
-yes maintaining water temp is very important if you dont want root rot. keep the water at 64.5f
-yes if the pump is weak it will have trouble pushing solution out of the res and into the drip lines
-use a air pump and air stone to aerate the solution
-a hydro store should carry everything you need to build the diy setup
-remember, no organics in coco grow. allso dont mix too much solution at once, you can have problems if the mixed solution sits for more than 4 days.
My basements temp is between 18 and 22 c usually so it shouldnt be hard to maintain that temp. I got an air pump and 400gph water pump , just waiting for the tubing and everything else to come in. Thanks again for all the advice @Northdank67
 

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