Been Using The Wrong Fertilizer.

[Purpletrain]

See this is the problem i see today with tru living LOS or no Till soil should complete veg and bloom stage ,, there are a few growers that achieve this
What ironic people tend to forget are not just to feed the micro life it also is immediate food for the plant
Also when you look at NPK people think its chemical based or how you suggest made up from fert companies
its a term like EWC earth worm casting a abbreviation when we get soil tests done what are they testing for ??
15 years ago i was making teas and getting laughed at today its a craze and must have in any grow room growers usually copy or add amendments such as kelp , but have little understanding on what kelp is really doing , See it can take months before its available as in plant food and also do not realize it releases very low nutrient Value its a amendment that helps over time in the building process
the real goal in organic is having the right ratio in the carbon cycle and making humus which is organic matter that has competed its decomposition process .. it an no longer be broken down this is the rich micro life and nutrient content plants want
like i said with all these growers using amendments little do they really know break down times i stay away from kelp, rice hauls etc it takes for ever to break down lets look at rice rice takes in the most silicon out of any specie of plants but with high content they break down really slow Rice hauls tend to increase ph in soil and perform poorly before there broken down i want the microlife to adjust my ph not my self effect ph as to slowing down the actual process
So where does it end ??
And this is why so many soils never complete a full season hurt plants in the beginning and cannot complete the flowering cycle at the end ..
being def and ph issues people using amendments not related to there geological area
organics is fun keep it simple use what is in your area get rid of guano , rice hauls , kelp its a dam gimmic
My soil i build goes like this and will grow a plant 7 months water only maintain 670 - 700 ppm nutrient levels maintain ph cause its a true living soil and why i see 6 - 7 " of growth daily on plants there going nuts over it and in 6 months time i will test soil and it will still be 670 - 700 ppm available i top dress organic matter as is grass clippings , which break down by only insects and slowly releases due to rain and leaching into soil No teas no ferts or boosters i let mother nature take care of my plant and soil way its suppose to be with less interference as possible this is true LOS
i do both no till and till grows Dam cannot find pictures of ph and ppm value from letting that pile sit for 3 weeks prior to using the soil to transplant
Would of showed inital humus and top soil ph which was low and 3 weeks later when micro life establishes in mixture near bang on 7.0 with soil ppm of 680 perfect i will wait another 2 weeks and take soil samples just to see if soil food web is keeping up to 680 - 700 ppm release rate :)

 

[Purpletrain]

with soil bioligy yes i do,i dont feed nothing but water in veg,when im ready to flip,i start feeding compost tea 2 weeks before flip,all thes were grown with water and tea every other week

interesting i would back off on your fert feeding it appears the crows claw is becoming dominant curious what other feed are you feeding your plants that you are not telling everyone about :)
And how true is your living soil ?? i mean i have never seen leaf tip curl as in crows claw i suggest stop chasing it with Nitrogen ..
some may see it when they first transplant into hotter soil but your in flower now ??? what 2 weeks so we can easily say that didn't cause it and teas will not cause that
Just curious ?? here some autumn colors and LOS soil doing her thing the plant was 12 feet tall and same wide rain water fed no nutrients or teas she is about 6 months old from germinating seedling notice now claw all natural

 

[Srenots]

Cmon dude Contrary to popular belief once seedlings have true set of leaves and root structure nutrients is essential for proper growth
here 6 week old seedling she is a beast standing already @ 3 feet tall with organic soil ..
You think plant would be this size in a medium with out any nutrients and only given water ?? View attachment 607572

I'm not saying don't use nutes, I'm saying it can be done without a lot of nutes, dig?

 

[Srenots]

MDMazing, I'm sorry your thread got messed up, Purpletrain you can start your own thread for everyone...yall have a good one ~

 

[mdmazing]

Honestly i am not following anymore, too technical for me, but its good that this things happen :) discussion is good

 

[oldskol4evr]

Honestly i am not following anymore, too technical for me, but its good that this things happen :) discussion is good

bro stick with it,they always come and jack threads,just hang in there and you will learn what your looking for without all the argument,most folks dont understand,that after the smoke clears,soil is what you come from and go right back to in the end,we can get as detailed as we want,but you keep this in mind,plants can and do grow in all types of media to include rock,ph of soil is from 5.0 to 11.0 difrent species will trive if the plant is in the right soil,this dude jacked your thread,my intentions for you,without all his hype he probally read on the internet,but keep this in mind that soil will mend itself,it will adjust,to,and it will produce without nutrients,the plants i grew anyone that knows me went threw that whole grow and watched everything i did with them with water only,it is done on a regular basic,here you go,WHO THE FUCK IT FEEDING ALL THEM FOREST TREES AND SRUBS AND UNDER GROWTH WITH NUTRIENT,you guess it,i came prepackage from the sky,and there isnt enough man power or sprayer big enough to feed them nutrient this ole boy braggs about,he called me out and called me a liar on my water only grow,but i have about 30 folk that stayed with me on the grow and some of them have answered this thread,so like me dont sweat that folk that want recognition of being the next fruad or god,scroll right on by there remarks and learned how hardened vetrans do it,piece them all together and your outcome will be your own method that works for you,sorry about the jacking,but happens exactually when you find someone that is helping you understand.
ps keep this in mind,them experts that jack these threads have a motive,they dont want you to suceed so you will continue to go to there little grow shops and buy that little bag of who the fuck no's what they gonna call it that day,keep that in mind

 

[Ecompost]

I add some pics.
Notice how the 2 small plants are not looking great. But its probably my fault, messing and moving them around.
(In the pictures they are inside because its raining right now)

have they been out in the wet rain for long bro? Is the soil cool to touch? If the answer is they have been well soaked, and the media is cool to touch, you may be losing N and S, P also but primarily your N and S will suffer, both will result in an overall yellowing of your plant. S can be fixed in most instances by simply warming and drying the media, at which time your plant will begin to green up again. If its an N issue, the plant will not likely recover, although cold damp conditions are not great for many of the less mobile nutrients and so my advice would be check the environmental first, warm the media if cool, dry the pots but dont over dry soils. Aim for between 40-60% moisture levels in the soil and try to maintain an even temp, warm but not hot, you will lose many elements above certain temps also since the microbes in soils tend to stall above 32C but will work up to 36C is other variables are in check..
Feeding plants in low light and cold damp conditions is no beuno buddy esp feeding N is typically a waste of time imo as this cant get processed due to light not being sufficient to stimutlate the plant to do more. You are organic, so this requires microbes to process your elements from organic state to inorganic ions, microbes slow down when its cold, wet, or dry and hot. Leaching N is also a problem for microbes whom require biological N in order to mineralise your organic inputs, so when we consider N in soils, and organics, we must remember to feed the biology N and the plant N, most MJ works on about 250ppms N so if you only have 230 and your biology takes 8,% then you will not have enough for the plant and suffer a def, alternatively, if the carbon to nitrogen ratio falls out of balance, your microbes will not process organic N at a rate suited to your plants needs and so lock your plant out of accessing enough, this does not mean you dont have enough, it just means the rate of mineralisation is too slow or fast for the plants needs.
Over wet media depletes Oxygen, no Oxygen means no bueno, this can lead to bad actors taking hold in your media and this wont end well
Bloom feeds work if you have existing N in your potting media and not too much organic P, so dont stress too much as the other guys have said.
Basics first, eg check soil moisture, pick them up, are they heavy, if yes they are wet, stick a finger in, if it comes out with soil on it, its wet, if its clean then its ok, you will know if its too dry... How cold is it to touch, if its cool warm it up, if its cool and wet, warm and dry it.
If its a really hot day, just use water mate, dont add nutes if its dark and cold and wet, or hot and dry. Hope this helps

 

[Ecompost]

See this is the problem i see today with tru living LOS or no Till soil should complete veg and bloom stage ,, there are a few growers that achieve this
What ironic people tend to forget are not just to feed the micro life it also is immediate food for the plant
Also when you look at NPK people think its chemical based or how you suggest made up from fert companies
its a term like EWC earth worm casting a abbreviation when we get soil tests done what are they testing for ??
15 years ago i was making teas and getting laughed at today its a craze and must have in any grow room growers usually copy or add amendments such as kelp , but have little understanding on what kelp is really doing , See it can take months before its available as in plant food and also do not realize it releases very low nutrient Value its a amendment that helps over time in the building process
the real goal in organic is having the right ratio in the carbon cycle and making humus which is organic matter that has competed its decomposition process .. it an no longer be broken down this is the rich micro life and nutrient content plants want
like i said with all these growers using amendments little do they really know break down times i stay away from kelp, rice hauls etc it takes for ever to break down lets look at rice rice takes in the most silicon out of any specie of plants but with high content they break down really slow Rice hauls tend to increase ph in soil and perform poorly before there broken down i want the microlife to adjust my ph not my self effect ph as to slowing down the actual process
So where does it end ??
And this is why so many soils never complete a full season hurt plants in the beginning and cannot complete the flowering cycle at the end ..
being def and ph issues people using amendments not related to there geological area
organics is fun keep it simple use what is in your area get rid of guano , rice hauls , kelp its a dam gimmic
My soil i build goes like this and will grow a plant 7 months water only maintain 670 - 700 ppm nutrient levels maintain ph cause its a true living soil and why i see 6 - 7 " of growth daily on plants there going nuts over it and in 6 months time i will test soil and it will still be 670 - 700 ppm available i top dress organic matter as is grass clippings , which break down by only insects and slowly releases due to rain and leaching into soil No teas no ferts or boosters i let mother nature take care of my plant and soil way its suppose to be with less interference as possible this is true LOS
i do both no till and till grows Dam cannot find pictures of ph and ppm value from letting that pile sit for 3 weeks prior to using the soil to transplant
Would of showed inital humus and top soil ph which was low and 3 weeks later when micro life establishes in mixture near bang on 7.0 with soil ppm of 680 perfect i will wait another 2 weeks and take soil samples just to see if soil food web is keeping up to 680 - 700 ppm release rate :)

in 7 months I have had 3 harvests, growing your way is clearly not practical for indoor users and does not help the user answer his question about N and reasons for yellowing/ slow growth rates but good on you.
Availability of organics is far more complex than saying kelp takes months to be available, which is just bollocks if you use liquid kelp and not true if you have good active biology and a decent C/N ratio with in range environmentals and a decent particle size.
Rice hulls are not used for feed as a rule, more texture and aeration imo but to each his own, of course they have a C/N like anything carbon based. If you are hoping to feed plants with Rice Hulls I would say go ahead, I wont old my breath.
Solutions for the user, or its pointless man, use your skills to spread love

 

[Ecompost]

You might be right, i've been watering them a lot and the soil is not the best. But the transplant was today and i added a bunch of perlite and going to do the same with the others when my pot arrives from the internet.
So they should be better :)

thats the spirit dude, we all live and learn anyway

 

[Ecompost]

a good thing to go by, is when you transplant into another pot, recognize how heavy that pot is with new dirt( without watering)....keep that weight in your mind, so later when u are picking up pots to check how wet they are, you can go by that weight ....ur good..obviously if you are getting ready to water, if the pot is real heavy then just wait....they don't need a sht load of watering, I'm coco and that's what I do, just sayin....hope this helps..

good advice this

 

[oldskol4evr]

in 7 months I have had 3 harvests, growing your way is clearly not practical for indoor users and does not help the user answer his question about N and reasons for yellowing/ slow growth rates but good on you.
Availability of organics is far more complex than saying kelp takes months to be available, which is just bollocks if you use liquid kelp and not true if you have good active biology and a decent C/N ratio with in range environmentals and a decent particle size.
Rice hulls are not used for feed as a rule, more texture and aeration imo but to each his own, of course they have a C/N like anything carbon based. If you are hoping to feed plants with Rice Hulls I would say go ahead, I wont old my breath.
Solutions for the user, or its pointless man, use your skills to spread love

i dig the shit out of this,passion for a plant,bringing in new gardeners,to build are forces of doing anything we want when it comes to are bodies,need more folk like you around my brother