Best Humidifier for Larger Rooms

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dirk d

dirk d

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So i need to replace my humidifier. it is an ultrasonic one i got from costco. just doesnt cut it really. things i NEED to have are :

1) large reservoir so i dont have to refill every other day
2) must be able to set RH % to a specified % so it doesnt overshoot during lights off
3) quiet! im thinking an ultra sonic version
4) thats about it. appreciate the help guys.
5) thats not it lol would like it be be around $200 or less. thanks.

I need to humidifiy a 15' x 15' room with 4600w. current RH is low to mid 20's need to be 40-60% Range
 
Capulator

Capulator

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bro I just bought this one (the MHS):

http://www.mainlandmart.com/humidify.html

and it kicks ass!

Plus I picked it up at the warehouse. Its in El Monte.

Get all four discs and the humidity controller. You are set. Plumb that fucker with some 4" drain pipe and you can drop a nice mist wherever you want. My RH was mid 20's and not its rockin mid 50's to mid 60's... depends on how hard the AC is working.Plus it comes with an autofill.

OOPS... just saw the 200 dollar or less figure. No way. this thing ran me about a grand. I looked at other models that were upward of 3k though doing the same shit.
 
dirk d

dirk d

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thanks cap, appreciate it bro. i would "like" to keep it under $200 but im a realist lol been looking for humidifiers in that range and haven't really found what ive been looking for. I definitely need a Kick Ass humidifier. didnt realize how important RH is. always trying to get it down and now i need to get it UP!!! lol
 
dirk d

dirk d

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thanks deacon thats not a bad unit at all. is it pretty loud though?? Also can you set the desired RH that you want??thanks.
 
Capulator

Capulator

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That one looks tight. I think the one I picked up is like 4 gallons per hour, instead of 0.4. Its Chinese, and cheap. The quality is actually prettygood though, and it is whisper quiet (literally as loud as a computer fan).

My AC is 5 ton and sucks all the moisture out of my room. My plants are stunted for a couple weeks when they get transferred in there because of this. Since I hooked up the humidifier, the plants are looking way better and lots of new growth. I know it was the RH because I put half of them in, and they looked like shit for 3 days @28% RH... that's when I manned up and installed the humidifier. Then I put the other half of the plants in and those ones didn't skip a beat @ 55% RH.

After a couple weeks I wont need it anymore, because the plants will be big enough that they will offset the AC through continuous transpiration... by week 4 Ive got 2 70 pint dehueys running at night to keep at 60%.

Oh yeah the best part is the fact that you can direct the fog anywhere you want. Im gonna eventually hook it up so it is dropping fog right on each plant site. Ill post a pic of it in my room here later tonight if I get a chance.
 
deacon1503

deacon1503

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thanks deacon thats not a bad unit at all. is it pretty loud though?? Also can you set the desired RH that you want??thanks.

its not that loud. its got a directional lid on it thats removable. for a dryer mist (and quieter operation), add the lid, for a wetter mist, remove it. Without the lid and with the unit on the floor the mist will go up 4-5ft easy. i have a small pump in my RO rez that supplies it. you need a humidistat to run it, i use this one:

if your needs exceed this unit, or multiple of these unit, farmtek has a good one too:http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplie...1&langId=-1&division=FarmTek&productId=109761
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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The best thing to humidify a growroom with is plants! I hate to sound contrary, but if you're trying to cover for an overactive AC or trying to replace humidity because you're pushing cooling air through the room too fast, those are the problems to address. Low humidity is best thought of as a symptom of inefficient air managment.

Slowing down air turnover will significantly increase humidity, the trick is to balance this against adequate cooling. Increasing airspeed through an AC coil will also reduce its ability to condense water out of the air, by warming the coil above dewpoint.

In general, finding strategies to get the heat out of your growroom without changing out the air in it is the best path to higher humidity values. Here's two tips to get you started; first, seal and vent your hoods. Pull air from outside the growroom and through them by mounting the fan downstream of the hoods, as close as possible to where the air exits the room. Second, use swamp coolers, as they will still work even in a sealed room and are better designed to use water's natural cooling ability to lower temperature. Win-win, right?

Unless of course you live in San Fransisco. :p

How do you know your room is sealed well enough? When you need a DE-humidifier. In the desert, lol.
 
dirk d

dirk d

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thanks ttystikk, you are correct in that i have too much air turnover. i have too many plants and not enough AC so im trying to compensate for the high temps. unfortunately i dont have hoods anymore i run all vertical lighting. 4600w vertical in my main 15' x 15' room and 1800w vertical in my secondary 10' x 10' flower room. not much i can do till i can upgrade my current 14k portable AC unit to a 24k mini split.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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thanks ttystikk, you are correct in that i have too much air turnover. i have too many plants and not enough AC so im trying to compensate for the high temps. unfortunately i dont have hoods anymore i run all vertical lighting. 4600w vertical in my main 15' x 15' room and 1800w vertical in my secondary 10' x 10' flower room. not much i can do till i can upgrade my current 14k portable AC unit to a 24k mini split.

Add some swamp coolers. These will help humidity and lower temps, and the increased air mass of humid air will also slow down temperature swings.

And there's always cooltubes, I've seen plenty of vertical installations with one or two bulbs inside each cooltube standing on end in a roomfull of 6' tall frosty trees. So there are options.

Now listen, please, for the love of money in your wallet, investigate water chilling as a means of reducing temps in your growroom! It's no coincidence that larger buildings are designed this way, it's because it's more efficient; space efficient, energy efficient (about twice that of AC) and versatile. If you buy a larger chiller unit you can use it to cool multiple growspaces in addition to your hydro systems. Now you're potentially replacing many cooling units of varying types with just one, and this is definitely the way to better reliability and lower cost of operation, to say nothing of peace of mind!

I use 8" maxfans blowing through 8" Ice Boxes, you can find them on the hydro innovations website, and this combo is extremely effective at removing heat from an airspace- and here's the best part- without removing the air! This is key to a sealed room approach, and your interest in a minisplit tells me that's where you're headed. If you use chillers to cool a DWC system, then I strongly recommend you go this route so you can cool everything.
 
Capulator

Capulator

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The best thing to humidify a growroom with is plants! I hate to sound contrary, but if you're trying to cover for an overactive AC or trying to replace humidity because you're pushing cooling air through the room too fast, those are the problems to address. Low humidity is best thought of as a symptom of inefficient air managment.

Slowing down air turnover will significantly increase humidity, the trick is to balance this against adequate cooling. Increasing airspeed through an AC coil will also reduce its ability to condense water out of the air, by warming the coil above dewpoint.

In general, finding strategies to get the heat out of your growroom without changing out the air in it is the best path to higher humidity values. Here's two tips to get you started; first, seal and vent your hoods. Pull air from outside the growroom and through them by mounting the fan downstream of the hoods, as close as possible to where the air exits the room. Second, use swamp coolers, as they will still work even in a sealed room and are better designed to use water's natural cooling ability to lower temperature. Win-win, right?

Unless of course you live in San Fransisco. :p

How do you know your room is sealed well enough? When you need a DE-humidifier. In the desert, lol.

Sorry bro but in my situation, I have a sealed room. You run air cooled lights. I run a 5 ton AC with separate intake and exhaust. That thing when it is on sucks all the moisture out of the air. AC's are glorified dehueys.

9, 18" tall plants are no match for 9 1k's and the 5 ton. After 2-3 weeks they are, but I need the humidifier to ease the transition.

Maybe if I had to do it again I would do aircooled, but at this point I am locked in to what I have (like a lot of other people I am sure).
 
Capulator

Capulator

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P1017108
P1017109
P1017110
 
Mississip Hip

Mississip Hip

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Damn Cap....lol...

WTF is all that?

It looks like it might take flight....

Thats cool shit homie. I would kill those girls faster than Ted Bundy at college night. Props
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Sorry bro but in my situation, I have a sealed room. You run air cooled lights. I run a 5 ton AC with separate intake and exhaust. That thing when it is on sucks all the moisture out of the air. AC's are glorified dehueys.

9, 18" tall plants are no match for 9 1k's and the 5 ton. After 2-3 weeks they are, but I need the humidifier to ease the transition.

Maybe if I had to do it again I would do aircooled, but at this point I am locked in to what I have (like a lot of other people I am sure).

Aircooled lights are very compatible with a sealed room approach. For example; my lights are aircooled, but the air comes from outside the growroom, it's ducted in, pulled through sealed hoods, and then vented out again, all without ever mixing with room air. This doesn't get rid of ALL the heat a bulb generates, but it does get most of it. And it doesn't interfere with the sealed room environment.

To cool the air in the room, I use maxfans blowing through Ice Boxes, just like the ones in the hydro innovations website. In this way, I put the excess heat left over (from hoods, CO2 burner, hehuey, fans, etc) in the room into water, which then passes through my chiller. So does the water that's carrying excess heat from my RDWC systems. One cooling unit now cools everything, in several rooms. Best of all, that chiller unit can now be a long distance from where the cooling is needed, simplifying installation, improving use of space options, and helping keep things cool.

While it's certainly possible to install vertical cooltubes in a room like yours, it's a major pain and to get outside air to the bottom of each one involves some serious engineering if you're going to have any room left to walk in there! Definitely not a quick weekend project in the middle of a run. And of course you're losing the lighting efficiency of bare bulbs.

Agreed that an AC unit is basically a glorified dehuey. If you can, it may help your situation to blow more air through the AC chiller section, and run the AC itself at a lower cool setting. The idea is to push the air past the coils so fast the cooling coils warm up enough to quit condening so much water. Not all AC is tunable is such a way, but it's worth a look. Fortunately, your problem is temporary- once the plants get big enough, they'll do the job by themselves without intervention.

Believe me, I understand about running what you have, and there's no question your system is killin' it. I don't mean to criticize- it's all in the spirit of discussion. God knows I've learned plenty from you so far!

Just make certain you run RO or distilled water through your mister, or you'll end up with whitish calcium deposits all over everything in that room; plants, gear, the walls, everything! Another option is to use a 'swamp cooler', which keeps that from happening by only emitting fully evaporated water so the dissolved solids stay behind.
 
Capulator

Capulator

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its hooked in to the RO my friend!

I like the idea of a water cooled room. Like I said though, one you set everything up, and you are on a perpetual cycle there is no point. There are a few patients who depend on these plants, and so making drastic changes when things work so well is not really a good idea. This humidifier was the last piece of the puzzle for me for the most part (there will always be things to tinker with). From here on out I just get to play with my girls.


CAP what kind of system are you running with those tan totes?

MPB in the middle, coco on the edges. The coco is my "hedge" bet (hahah no pun intended), in case the MPB shits the bed.

Damn Cap....lol...

WTF is all that?

It looks like it might take flight....

Thats cool shit homie. I would kill those girls faster than Ted Bundy at college night. Props


I dont think so bro. Ive seen your skiilllzzz.
 
daliwarpaint

daliwarpaint

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I know this was a lil but ago but I have the same question about a smaller room any suggestions
 
Confuten1

Confuten1

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^^^ dude get a portable swamp cooler, it will cool and add humidity an its more than cost effective aswell!
Confu.
 
daliwarpaint

daliwarpaint

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thanks man i already have a portable ac but it is not a swamp cooler im trying to figure out what to do my shit is like 15% 20%
 
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