
pelodendron
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What are the best lights on the market for a 2x4 or 4x4 tent right now?
Veg or FlowerWhat are the best lights on the market for a 2x4 or 4x4 tent right now?
Bright)What are the best lights on the market for a 2x4 or 4x4 tent right now?
Well there's alot to unpack. While you want a true epar full spectrum (including uv and far Red (infrared/IR) because IR does infact drive photosynthesis, as well as raising the plants metabolism to assimilate nutrients similar to good Old HPS/MH/CMH abd the Sun, you don't want the ir chips in the same fixture because of life span vs the White and deep red (600-660nm) because the lifespan of the IR are around 10,000 hours vs 50,000-60,000 of the Samsung lm301h, 301b . So thst means at some point your IR chip's will crap out 5x earlier than the rest.What are the best lights on the market for a 2x4 or 4x4 tent right now?
Did you see they changed the SE4500?Another vote for the spider farmer SE4500. Have 2 in my 2× 4 tents and have never had to crank them up past 60/70%. The only thing to consider is to be careful if you use them for seedlings, very easy to roast them if you don't pay close attention. I still have my SF1000 I use for seedlings.
No I didn't see that. Wonder why the hell they did that. Spider Farmer is active on this site, maybe we will get an explanation?Did you see they changed the SE4500?
After I made the same recommendation, I looked it up and it's now only 320 watts, 10 inches narrower, and 1 less bar (3 instead of 4).![]()
I called them out on it is the thread I linked below.No I didn't see that. Wonder why the hell they did that. Spider Farmer is active on this site, maybe we will get an explanation?
Because there literally no difference, its just a marketing designation. H shoved into horticultural specific market, b being general light Market. As fsr as spectrum and output, but the H has a special coating to prevent sulfurization in higher humidity environments.Did you see they changed the SE4500?
After I made the same recommendation, I looked it up and it's now only 320 watts, 10 inches narrower, and 1 less bar (3 instead of 4).
It has LM301H EVO Diodes now but for what they took away (wattage and amount of diodes), don't think it's better then our model with the LM301B.
Most growers would never tell a difference in their grow with LM301H vs LM301B.
Uf it's a 0-10v dimmer it will be compatible with any drivers that use that dimming method and not resistive dimming.I called them out on it is the thread I linked below.
Post in thread 'Spider Farmer LED Grow' https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/spider-farmer-led-grow.114948/post-3195491
I do like the new dimmer they offer with it, I wonder if it's compatible with the older versions since it uses an RJ connection.
I use a Controller 69 so doesn't matter but would be good information for others to know.
If the new dimmer is compatible with other models, it might work with any light brand that has a RJ connection on the driver.
Not at all, "our older style" just meant the light we both own. I quoted a post of someone who owns the same light, that's why I said "our"When you said "our older Spyder farmer" , are you affiliated or work for spider farmer?
I run all my lights with the RJ adapter on my Controller 69'sUf it's a 0-10v dimmer it will be compatible with any drivers that use that dimming method and not resistive dimming.
Also you can use adapters for controller 69 to dim any style LED driver, type b for 0-10v, type a for resistive
Any issues at all with light's acting weird or anything?I run all my lights with the RJ adapter on my Controller 69's
I like that it gives me 10 levels of dimming vs 4 or 5 if I was to use the lights I have without the Controller 69.
I only have 1 AC Infinity light and the rest I'm running are Spider Farmer, Vivosun, and HLG lights on the Controller 69's with no issues at all.Any issues at all with light's acting weird or anything?
I planned on doing This with my medic grow smart 8 plus, but Read people had light's acting up when any non aci light's are used? According to Reddit...so i don't have much faith in those posts there
Fsr Red is all the way right on spectral charts, 700nm and beyond, most peaking at 730-760nm infrared/IRFar red vs far blue... What's the difference?
Appreciate the info, thanks.Fsr Red is all the way right on spectral charts, 700nm and beyond, most peaking at 730-760nm infrared/IR
Far blue is all the Way left on chart, 405 and below 345nm-405nm ultraviolet/UV
Uv doesn't drive photosynthesis, but stimulates secondary mechanisms. Resin, disease resistance, etc. far red does in fact drive photosynthesis a good bit while also stimulating others secondary mechanisms, like metabolism, shade avoidance, Emerson effect, etc
With implementing far red you can extend flowering lights on to around 13.5 hours,. You give it far Red 20 minutes before light's off and let it's run 5-15 minutes after light's off and the plant immediately starts producing florigen instead of the normal 2 hours or so after light's off. So the plant reaches trigger and maintenance levels of flowering hormones much sooner in lights off cycle.