Graywolf said:

The non decarboxylated oil has slightly more head effect when vaporized or smoked and less sedative effect when over done. It also has more turpenoid flavors.

The oil also has less viscosity once decarboxylated and seems to produce slightly less cough.

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DUBSteppin said:

I blast into a pyrex dish sitting in a boiling pot of water, using a hot pad outside, there is a decent amount of water in the pyrex dish too, this makes the oil purge from the second it hits the water until the second i scrape it out with a metal card. then I let it sit under a light for an hour or two and it bubbles up really big and i pop the bubbles and then using a butter knife flatten the oil around the dish im keeping it in releasing much more of the butane and getting some of the water that is collected from the pyrex dish out and then i put it back under the light for 2-10 days depending on how much i get.
This always gives me a wax that is any range of gold to yellow to brown and breaks easier than candle wax when played with.

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fuzzb3 said:

Awesome thread everyone. I love the scientific breakdowns, especially the use of ether as a further purging/cleaning step. Hands down the best BHO i've ever had was made with this process. True amber glass that did not shatter, maliable, easy to handle, yet was almost completely transparent. Like stated though, availability is definitly a problem

I am looking to improve quality using a vacuum purge at the end of my process.

Anyone recommend a specific type of vac system?

Cheaper hand style brake bleeder pump with homeade vacuum tube?

Or is it worth going all out and getting a naglene vacuum plate, powered vac pump?

Could this vac be done on the pyrex glass collection plates I use, right after hot water purge? Avoiding the painstaking step of scraping product onto parchment paper to put into vacuum?

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Graywolf said:

We do thin film purging in a vacuum, with and without heat, by using a spark=less lab hotplate in a vacuum desiccator.

A water faucet vacuum aspirator is the cheapest to evaporate off the bulk of the solvent, and we use a AC vacuum pump for a hard finish.

You can check out more details at: http://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-extraction/

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bongstar said:

First instead of using a pyrex container or foil or a class cup, use a small metal cup, like a metal measuring cup or something they have many sizez to suit your needs. now when shooting it out place this metal cup inside a glass of hot water then place that in a pot of hot water using the double boiler method. this is for when your shooting. now is what you have is your oil in the same container that your going to purge it it in and store it in there is no transfer no scraping, no razorblades or any other mess. once your done shooting let it sit in the metal cup in the hot water to get rid of the first round of butane. Second when that has happend i place the metal cup on an upsidedown iron at meadium heat. for my iron this 230 degrees, wich is about where you want it considering thc dosent burn untill aroun 355 to 392. once its on the iron it will eventualy break down into a liquid just keep stirring it with a metal poker untill most of the bubbles are gone.

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bongstar said:

First image is boviously the product and container second is the double boiler method i use while shooting and 3rd is the iron, these are examples not the actual process. again same container for shoot purge and storage ill give a more updated and better acount when i do an actual run.

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