BHO Purging Method

  • Thread starter Default 501x
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None

How do you purge?

  • HmK method - 30 mins-1hr in a hot water bath

    Votes: 54 33.3%
  • low heat overnight purge

    Votes: 14 8.6%
  • hot water purge then vacuum purge

    Votes: 66 40.7%
  • other

    Votes: 28 17.3%

  • Total voters
    162
D

Default 501x

25
0
Hello fellow farmers! I have been reading these forums for a couple years now, and they have taught me an immeasurable wealth of information in every possible part of cultivating/smoking/processing the marijuana plant, so i have to start off by just saying thank you to all the people on these forums. I have been on many, many MJ forums like gc, tc, etc, and i have to say this one seems to be filled with the most knowledgeable and helpful people that don't hesitate to help everyone out. Thanks for everything~

Ok, now that i've got that out of the way, I have a question for all you errl lovers. What is your preferred method of purging your BHO? i've watched countless videos and read waaayyy too many posts on the topic, but i can't seem to get a consistant, clear answer as to the best way to purge your BHO.

But i've narrowed it down to 3 techniques that seem to be used the most, and i've personally tried 2 of them many times (i'm going out to buy a mityvac today to try the 3rd) and i just want to see what this community thinks is the best method.

The first is the standard, HmK's amazing tutorial method, after the initial hot water bath purge, bring the dish inside and double boil it with a lid loosely covering it on about half heat on the stove, use a torch to pop big bubbles as long as they flame up when they pop, about 30 minutes-1hr of this for 1-2 grams of oil. The only question i have about this is, would it be safe at this point to put the double boil on a stove without a flameless heating element? or am i gonna blow myself up?

The second is another highly recommended method, which is to spread the bho evenly across the bottom of the dish and put the dish on a flameless heat source on low to medium heat for 4+ hours/overnight and check to see that the bubbles stop rising. I am just curious as to whether all the extra time is necessary, and i feel like this method destroys a lot of the terpenes.

The third is to first do an initial purge via the Hashmasta-Kut tutorial, then scrape your oil onto parchment paper, put it in vacuum chamber on some sort of low heat source to force viscosity, and get it to -25hg for about 10 minutes, re-pressurize and repeat. I'm going to buy a mityvac later today to try this one out.

if you have another method, please, post it! i'm all ears.
 
T

the_mad_hatter

32
8
ok,
well,
first off,
my purging method starts during the blasting..
while im am blasting into my pyrex, my pyrex is setting on fresh off the stove boiling water.

right after the blast is over, i take it off the water, go inside, whip it up for a couple minutes, scrape it up together, n throw it in my GLASS jar.

now this next part has a lot to do with strain dependency(how long it may take to fully purge out).

sometimes i will wait 6 hours, sometimes ill wait over night, n sometimes ill even start right after my blast because im impatient.
now you will want to get a pot on the stove with about of inch or two of water (enough to have the bottom half of your GLASS jar in the water) and turn the heat on super low.
i use a thermometer for this part. i get my water to between 135-142 degrees Fahrenheit and then set my glass jar in the pot.
now this temperature is very important because it is hot enough to get the butane to rise to the top of your concentrate and evaporate out, but not so hot to where you burn your concentrate and turn it an unwanted green color and loose its good taste.

now while you are watching this, you will start to see bubbles rise to the top and slowly pop. depending on the strain, you could see huge bubbles, or small bubbles. also, while doing this, you might start to see the opacity start to go transparent, which i dont personally like, so i would stick my tool in the concentrate and mix it up a little to bring back its opacity.

now as i said earlier, this whole part is strain dependent when it comes to how long it takes. ive had some strains take only 15 minutes to finish accelerating, then ive had some strains take over a hour.

what you are looking for is for it to ether crater up (when the bubbles stop reforming after they pop), or for it to look like its drying up. depending on the strain, it can turn waxy, or it can turn it to a dried up budder..

another way you can check to see if it is done (or almost done) is by messing with it with your tool..
you will notice that before u start to accelerate your concentrate, it will be very stringy when u dip your tool into it and go to take it out. after you are done accelerating it (or when it is almost done), you will notice that you can dip your tool into it and take out a nice hit, or chunk, with out it stringing out on you. if that makes any sense.

sorry i couldn't compose this better, in a smarter, well written way. but i am very sick right now, so i don't have much patients to fix all this up and do a final draft type thing.
but i have been creating high grade concentrates for the past few years and just perfected this purging method this last year, and found that it works very well.
i hope this literature can help you and any one else in their BHO creations.
 
mittenmedgrow

mittenmedgrow

3,546
263
Your cool after the bubbling stops doesn't take long. I pretty much use the same method. Just don't burn it kinda glaze it with the torch. I use a little butane pencil torch. Takes me about a half hour to make a batch. And its so good I've only used bud not leaf.
 
D

Default 501x

25
0
i use a thermometer for this part. i get my water to between 135-142 degrees Fahrenheit and then set my glass jar in the pot.
now this temperature is very important because it is hot enough to get the butane to rise to the top of your concentrate and evaporate out, but not so hot to where you burn your concentrate and turn it an unwanted green color and loose its good taste.
.

i had everything down except this! its exactly the piece of information i was looking for. thank you for this incredibly useful post mad hatter!

I am going to try your technique minus the whipping part, as i am going for that clear opacity, and i'm going to run it through a few vac purges when i'm done. can' wait to see how it turns out!
 
D

Default 501x

25
0
so, did u do it?
got any pictures?

ah unfortunately I left my case of vector at my buddy's house and he is currently in San Fran so I'm waiting for him to get back from the city to do my next run of pure high grade bubba kush nugs but i will definitely post pics when i'm finished!
 
R

ridankulous805

3
3
ok,
well,
first off,
my purging method starts during the blasting..
while im am blasting into my pyrex, my pyrex is setting on fresh off the stove boiling water.

right after the blast is over, i take it off the water, go inside, whip it up for a couple minutes, scrape it up together, n throw it in my GLASS jar.

now this next part has a lot to do with strain dependency(how long it may take to fully purge out).

sometimes i will wait 6 hours, sometimes ill wait over night, n sometimes ill even start right after my blast because im impatient.
now you will want to get a pot on the stove with about of inch or two of water (enough to have the bottom half of your GLASS jar in the water) and turn the heat on super low.
i use a thermometer for this part. i get my water to between 135-142 degrees Fahrenheit and then set my glass jar in the pot.
now this temperature is very important because it is hot enough to get the butane to rise to the top of your concentrate and evaporate out, but not so hot to where you burn your concentrate and turn it an unwanted green color and loose its good taste.

now while you are watching this, you will start to see bubbles rise to the top and slowly pop. depending on the strain, you could see huge bubbles, or small bubbles. also, while doing this, you might start to see the opacity start to go transparent, which i dont personally like, so i would stick my tool in the concentrate and mix it up a little to bring back its opacity.

now as i said earlier, this whole part is strain dependent when it comes to how long it takes. ive had some strains take only 15 minutes to finish accelerating, then ive had some strains take over a hour.

what you are looking for is for it to ether crater up (when the bubbles stop reforming after they pop), or for it to look like its drying up. depending on the strain, it can turn waxy, or it can turn it to a dried up budder..

another way you can check to see if it is done (or almost done) is by messing with it with your tool..
you will notice that before u start to accelerate your concentrate, it will be very stringy when u dip your tool into it and go to take it out. after you are done accelerating it (or when it is almost done), you will notice that you can dip your tool into it and take out a nice hit, or chunk, with out it stringing out on you. if that makes any sense.

sorry i couldn't compose this better, in a smarter, well written way. but i am very sick right now, so i don't have much patients to fix all this up and do a final draft type thing.
but i have been creating high grade concentrates for the past few years and just perfected this purging method this last year, and found that it works very well.
i hope this literature can help you and any one else in their BHO creations.
i use this same method and have always turned up some good budder/wax. some of the most potent stuff ive had.
 
D

Default 501x

25
0
a little teaser of things to come, running it thru the vac once more first thing tomorrow morning
 
Photo 3
R

ridankulous805

3
3
hey man that stuff looks good nice golden color. How much flower did you use to get that? looks to be about a gram or two. And what purging method have you used? it still looks very underpurged.
 
D

DUBSteppin

17
3
I blast into a pyrex dish sitting in a boiling pot of water, using a hot pad outside, there is a decent amount of water in the pyrex dish too, this makes the oil purge from the second it hits the water until the second i scrape it out with a metal card. then I let it sit under a light for an hour or two and it bubbles up really big and i pop the bubbles and then using a butter knife flatten the oil around the dish im keeping it in releasing much more of the butane and getting some of the water that is collected from the pyrex dish out and then i put it back under the light for 2-10 days depending on how much i get.
This always gives me a wax that is any range of gold to yellow to brown and breaks easier than candle wax when played with.
 
D

DUBSteppin

17
3
I'll post a Pic of my latest run later on when its ready, it looks really nice, made with some nightshade i just chopped down
 
D

DUBSteppin

17
3
a little teaser of things to come, running it thru the vac once more first thing tomorrow morning

Not to hate at all it looks like some bomb errl but its my understanding that any bubbles you see in your oil is butane. That's just what I've been told and after making it numerous times thats the conclusion i've come upon and it looks like your errl is a little bubbly, i would try using a razor blade or butter knife and whip or knead it and the butane will bubble out.
The other night I was doing some kneading and watched the butane bubble out of it and could smell it in my room, nasty stuff when inhaled.
 
D

Default 501x

25
0
Not to hate at all it looks like some bomb errl but its my understanding that any bubbles you see in your oil is butane. That's just what I've been told and after making it numerous times thats the conclusion i've come upon and it looks like your errl is a little bubbly, i would try using a razor blade or butter knife and whip or knead it and the butane will bubble out.
The other night I was doing some kneading and watched the butane bubble out of it and could smell it in my room, nasty stuff when inhaled.

no worries! that was one of my earlier runs i have much improved my technique by now. But that is partially true. many of the bubbles are trapped butane, however when the concentrate is in this kind of consistency many of the smaller bubbles are actually terpenes, which to the best of my understanding play a major role in the taste and the effect of the oil to some extent. good tips though, I did recently start whipping my oil, check out this thread for a more recent result:
 
JH420

JH420

1,353
48
Not to hate at all it looks like some bomb errl but its my understanding that any bubbles you see in your oil is butane. That's just what I've been told and after making it numerous times thats the conclusion i've come upon and it looks like your errl is a little bubbly, i would try using a razor blade or butter knife and whip or knead it and the butane will bubble out.
The other night I was doing some kneading and watched the butane bubble out of it and could smell it in my room, nasty stuff when inhaled.

I disagree that "any bubbles you see in your oil is butane". Although it takes experience to know which ones are butane bubbles...
 
sdog

sdog

136
18
Looking good default, but bubbles are trouble! Try whiping that stuff in low temps with a strong paper untill you see no bubbles. it will have the best taste this way
Keep it growing!
 
D

Default 501x

25
0
k i dont want to type out the same thing again so ill just leave this here... ;)

http://img269.invalid.com/img269/6311/imag0152et.jpg
 
N

Nui

2
0
ok,
well,
first off,
my purging method starts during the blasting..
while im am blasting into my pyrex, my pyrex is setting on fresh off the stove boiling water.

right after the blast is over, i take it off the water, go inside, whip it up for a couple minutes, scrape it up together, n throw it in my GLASS jar.

now this next part has a lot to do with strain dependency(how long it may take to fully purge out).

sometimes i will wait 6 hours, sometimes ill wait over night, n sometimes ill even start right after my blast because im impatient.
now you will want to get a pot on the stove with about of inch or two of water (enough to have the bottom half of your GLASS jar in the water) and turn the heat on super low.
i use a thermometer for this part. i get my water to between 135-142 degrees Fahrenheit and then set my glass jar in the pot.
now this temperature is very important because it is hot enough to get the butane to rise to the top of your concentrate and evaporate out, but not so hot to where you burn your concentrate and turn it an unwanted green color and loose its good taste.

now while you are watching this, you will start to see bubbles rise to the top and slowly pop. depending on the strain, you could see huge bubbles, or small bubbles. also, while doing this, you might start to see the opacity start to go transparent, which i dont personally like, so i would stick my tool in the concentrate and mix it up a little to bring back its opacity.

now as i said earlier, this whole part is strain dependent when it comes to how long it takes. ive had some strains take only 15 minutes to finish accelerating, then ive had some strains take over a hour.

what you are looking for is for it to ether crater up (when the bubbles stop reforming after they pop), or for it to look like its drying up. depending on the strain, it can turn waxy, or it can turn it to a dried up budder..

another way you can check to see if it is done (or almost done) is by messing with it with your tool..
you will notice that before u start to accelerate your concentrate, it will be very stringy when u dip your tool into it and go to take it out. after you are done accelerating it (or when it is almost done), you will notice that you can dip your tool into it and take out a nice hit, or chunk, with out it stringing out on you. if that makes any sense.

sorry i couldn't compose this better, in a smarter, well written way. but i am very sick right now, so i don't have much patients to fix all this up and do a final draft type thing.
but i have been creating high grade concentrates for the past few years and just perfected this purging method this last year, and found that it works very well.
i hope this literature can help you and any one else in their BHO creations.

Great info.....thanks....:)

I have been doing pretty much the same thing but getting clarification that it's correct is awesome....

I understand your description of the texture difference of accelerating concentrate...:)

Nui
 
bloads

bloads

454
28
I've got a modified HMK method.

I have it in the bath as it's dripping out of my tube, all the way till disolve, making sure that it disolves evenly (as few 'puddles' as possible in my dish).

I then continue to let it sit in a hot bath, changing the water every 5-10 mins.

Then I take a scraper, and sort of smooth it out, smearing it more uniformly across the dish.

Now I let it cool down. To me it seems cooling it down allows the gas bubbles to be viewable in the product. When I cool it, I see how many bubbles are left, then I heat it up again and let it sit for another while (15 mins-hour).

Now i scrape it all up, put it in the center, and smear/spread it all out again. One more 10-30 minute sit in hot water, and I'm done.
 
true grit

true grit

6,269
313
Bubbles don't mean trouble, some are air bubbles and wax/budder just means oxidized. Wax does not mean any less butane. The worst butane trapped oil i ever had was whipped into wax and was horrible.

Its a balance of heat and other things. And frankly after a certain temp you are changing the cannabinoid complex...ie low enough temps to cause viscosity without degrading THC. The strongest cannabinoid content we tested, was inactive but higher levels because it wasn't degraded in the process- which it becomes active when heated/vaped.
 
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