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Bleached spots on new growth, flowering auto 8 weeks, organic

  • Thread starter Thread starter DudeMcDoodleStein
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Bleached spots on new growth, flowering auto 8 weeks, organic

DudeMcDoodleStein 68 Replies 8,097 Views
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 69
#21
Aqua Man said:
Looks like a lockout.

Nutrient imbalance is probably the cause. Don't add molasses to the soil only teas and you have way to much PK going on.

Reduce the lights flush the crap out of the plant with ph and temp adjusted water... with recharge. 3x the pot volume

then mix up bud bread at 50% the recommended dose and feed. Add cal mag if using RO. Feed 1x the pot volume. Reduce light intensity for 3-5 days by 25-50%.

Drop the molasses, mammoth and Neptune.
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Thank you so much. I'll do this ASAP. Can you explain what you meant by feeding 1X the pot volume?
 
#22
ComfortablyNumb said:
We don't foiliar feed because we don't open the tent after lights out, and we don't spray them when the light is on.
It takes 2 minutes to burn your leaves under high power grow lights. Why risk it? We just feed the roots and let them do the uptake.
It's more of a personal preference I guess.
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I avoid it at all costs too... no need if you can get it to em through the roots.
 
#23
Aqua Man said:
They also look very dense if you are getting condensate on leaves over night or anytime when the lights come on it will act as a magnifying glass and burn the leaves so if getting condensate or spraying the plants then stop spraying and you may need some defoliation and better airflow.

The condensate will happen where leaves are touching eachother.

Not sure if this is part of it but figured I'd throw it out there for you to look at.
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They are very dense, I did a lot of defoliation this week because I couldn't even see through it and the leaves are stacked on top of each other. Do you think the defoliation could have shocked them a little bit as well?
 
#24
Aqua Man said:
Looks like a lockout.

Nutrient imbalance is probably the cause. Don't add molasses to the soil only teas and you have way to much PK going on.

Reduce the lights flush the crap out of the plant with ph and temp adjusted water... with recharge. 3x the pot volume

then mix up bud bread at 50% the recommended dose and feed. Add cal mag if using RO. Feed 1x the pot volume. Reduce light intensity for 3-5 days by 25-50%.

Drop the molasses, mammoth and Neptune.
Click to expand...
Is it okay to do this a couple hours before lights-out or should I wait until the morning?
 
#25
DudeMcDoodleStein said:
Thank you so much. I'll do this ASAP. Can you explain what you meant by feeding 1X the pot volume?
Click to expand...
Flush 3x volume then feed right after 1x volume.

So 3 gal pot flush each with 3 gal of temp and ph adjusted water with recharge.

Then feed with 1 gal of temp and PH adjusted nutrient solution of bud bread at 50% of the recommended dose.

I know it's alot of work and waste and they may look a little over watered if in peat or soil for a day or so but they should bounce right back.

Nutrient ratios are the single most important thing with nutrients.... concentration is actually number 2 imo.

What type of light, temp and humidity are you running?
 
#26
DudeMcDoodleStein said:
They are very dense, I did a lot of defoliation this week because I couldn't even see through it and the leaves are stacked on top of each other. Do you think the defoliation could have shocked them a little bit as well?
Click to expand...
No if anything it helped... you may want to look at a bit more. Leaves resting on eachother are a haven and vector for infections... both fungal and bacterial.
 
#27
DudeMcDoodleStein said:
They are very dense, I did a lot of defoliation this week because I couldn't even see through it and the leaves are stacked on top of each other. Do you think the defoliation could have shocked them a little bit as well?
Click to expand...
A leaf = solar panel. Every leaf you take removes some of the energy the plant is collecting. However, when you remove a leaf, it redirects the energy it took to grow that leaf to the rest of the plant. The plant needs airflow.

Why are the leaves so close to each other? Normally a nodal distance (space between branches) is best around an inch to 1.5
If the light is too close to the plant, it won't stretch upward. What kind of light and how high above the plant top is it?
 
#29
Aqua Man said:
Flush 3x volume then feed right after 1x volume.

So 3 gal pot flush each with 3 gal of temp and ph adjusted water with recharge.

Then feed with 1 gal of temp and PH adjusted nutrient solution of bud bread at 50% of the recommended dose.

I know it's alot of work and waste and they may look a little over watered if in peat or soil for a day or so but they should bounce right back.

Nutrient ratios are the single most important thing with nutrients.... concentration is actually number 2 imo.

What type of light, temp and humidity are you running?
Click to expand...
HLG 135, temp around 81 but humidity has spiked here and even with a dehumidifier its at maybe 53-58rh. Light height I gauge with lux ... currently at 35k.
 
#30
When defoliating take the largest oldest leaves. But try not to remove leaves that will allow the light to penetrate to the ground.

New leaves are more efficient at photosynthesis so like I say... the largest older, shaded, damaged leaves can go
 
#32
DudeMcDoodleStein said:
HLG 135, temp around 81 but humidity has spiked here and even with a dehumidifier its at maybe 53-58rh.
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with that... also get the plants up off the floor and get some airflow through the canopy.... doesn't need to be crazy just a bit.

Leaves transpire from the underside so it's far more important to have good airflow under and through the canopy than above.
 
#33
Take leaves from the bottom up. I have a plastic circle I put over the pot with a hole for the stem to keep light off the soil. We save water that way. That is an important consideration when planting 5 acres.
 
#35
Aqua Man said:
Nothing wrong with that... also get the plants up off the floor and get some airflow through the canopy.... doesn't need to be crazy just a bit.

Leaves transpire from the underside so it's far more important to have good airflow under and through the canopy than above.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I should be good here I have a fan blowing down from the top and I have another fan at the level of the pots themselves pushing across under the canopy.
 
#37
The roots and soil do not really need the light. It just dries them out faster. If you go to the dollar store and buy some cheap reflective car window shades, you can cut them into shape and glues them to a plastic cutout the same size. Think Foam picnic plates.... Frisbees...
 
#38
Aqua Man said:
Yeah lollipoping is a good idea. Usually done just before or at flip... in his case I'm thinking better now than never.... whacha think bro?
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Sounds like a good idea. I also wanted to add that I used the Nature's living soil flower Amendment with a worm casting tea about 2 weeks ago and perhaps that was too hot?
 
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