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Breeding for whorls

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sativied
  • Start date Start date May 30, 2014
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Breeding for whorls

Sativied May 30, 2014 1,013 Replies 178,862 Views
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Toaster79

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#161
FlyinJStable said:
Its a great Thread
Peace FlyJ
Click to expand...

Indeed!!!

+++++Vibes

Keep it green
 
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Sativied

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#162
The swan (i.e. the one I called ugly earlier...)





She grew on me. :)

AAO:




One in hempy:


'nother one:


And last but not least:
 
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Sativied

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#163
Things are going fast now, noticing improvement in both size and frostiness daily. Couple of the plants in hempy:





Still about 5 weeks to go (4 weeks since flip for most plants) but I'm pretty sure the F2 is turning out to be better than the F1. The second one above, as well as AAO and several others are very much like the CH but with a more skunky tropical piney-pineapple smell. The chunk didn't have a lot of trichs on the sugar leaves and smaller fans, while the CH trim was very suitable for hash or bho.

I hope the bud structure will be good as well (preferably a little bit foxtail structure but with chunk-size calyxes).

AAO is no less frosty, looks like I won't be able to dismiss her from the selection based on that either.


As you may be able to see on the pic above, I messed up a bit... Not surprisingly (since it's F2) there's more variation in nutrient use amongst the plants in the tubes than I usually have. I got two tall ones that took longer to transition hence still vegged and needed more N than for example AAO and the Swan, which are now too dark green. AAO has a bit of clawing going on on some smaller leaves, which was probably the main downside of the original chunk parent (clawed sugar leaves in the bud). I ran 650ppm back then, much lower now but even though it's my own fault, it seems AAO is more sensitive than the Swan in this context. From a more positive perspective, it's easy to keep and get it green :) (goes for the F1 and almost all of the other F2 too though).

To follow up this grow with another one asap I would need to have some plants ready for the next run. To create F4 I obviously need the F3 seeds from this run. Since the Late Night is so fast (barely 8 weeks flowering) and looks so ridiculous frosty, I might do a round of that one first. It would only set me back 5 weeks or so (I'd need to germ and veg the F3 after this run is finished while I can veg the Late Night upfront). I think the Late Night needs a lot of work because it's both stretchy and not a great yielder. The one I currently got is 2.5feet tall at the moment, it may become nearly a single cola like the one I had last round (although this one is more pollinated) but it'll probably be skinny. If I do a round of Late Night first I can run a bunch of'm (all single cola plants) and see if I can find a more bulky one, and then next year check if the taste of the L8N8 (female parent of Late Night) taste will be in the next gen again. It currently smells and tastes exactly like the CH, if the sweet haze taste from the female won't appear again in the next gen and that's all like CH too I'm not going to put any more work in it.

Late Night:
 
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FlyinJStable

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#164
I need to get up and stretch for that one, Ooooo, thats WoW
I think I will start a score card set 1 to 9
and mark the 10 for @Sativied. As always bro Looking Killer
P6-f2-5 and 22 Rule That is a 10
FlyJ
 
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Sativied

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#165
Please let me introduce to you P6-F2-4:






Why stop at calyxes and sugar leaves if you can have frosty fans too :D
 
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caveman4.20

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#166
Sativied said:
Please let me introduce to you P6-F2-4:

View attachment 453062

View attachment 453057

View attachment 453056
Why stop at calyxes and sugar leaves if you can have frosty fans too :D
Click to expand...
Yikes, and they still have another month? Regardless those fans are already greezy, what kind of.smells
 
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Sativied

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#167
It's roughly a month since the flip, I expect it'll need about 4 weeks more. Especially since this one is clearly more like the shorter flowering and faster transitioning CH than the chunk. Which goes for smell too, which is not what I want in the end result, I want a mix of the piney chunk and the ch (grapefruit-ish) or the piney chunk taste alone but most other traits from the CH.

Doesn't necessarily mean this one is excluded from the selection though, the main male I used is a strong piney-pineapple dominant plant like the chunk was, so I don't necessarily have to stabilize the smell/taste in F3. The smell is intense on all of them though and just one of the smaller ones stinks up a room in no time.
 
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Sativied

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#168
Seed in AAO preflower. Right side looked the same.



Many seeds on the AAO and the swan are this far already, also on the buds I pollinated. Since I need the flower room to dry a week or so after this round. I also expect some of the taller plants to take a week longer than AAO and the swan for example, so that gives me plenty of time to pop those seeds for the next round. Not sure what I'm going to do. Not something that involves manual watering...
 
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curious2garden

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#169
Sativied said:
The swan (i.e. the one I called ugly earlier...)
View attachment 451566
Click to expand...
Hey handsome good to see you :) So riddle me this, do you remember my Rodan who fell through my NFT tube and killed her upstream sister? I bitched for a very long time over that. How do you keep that size plant from not falling through.

Good memories and 8" tubes,
 
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Sativied

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#170
Hey Annie :)

I'm not even sure I could push a cup through even it if it's empty so my first guess would be that the holes are a couple of mm to wide but looking at those other two cups (not leaning on the very edge like mine) that doesn't seem to be the case. Maybe it's partly because of the 8" tube, which is nearly twice as wide as mine in which the plants end up leaning on their root mass in addition to the net cup, while in your setup it has more space below the cup to actually fall through. Perhaps larger hole +larger cups can spread the weight enough to prevent it?

It's a known issue with nft though, the lack of mechanical support. I do need to keep them straight up sometimes, to prevent them from leaning over, but that's just one string of wire.
 
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caveman4.20

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#171
I gotta noob hydro question. What is different about aero ponics then NFT?
 
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Sativied

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#172
caveman4.20 said:
I gotta noob hydro question. What is different about aero ponics then NFT?
Click to expand...
The pictures on the following page show the basic difference:
http://www.simplyhydro.com/system.htm

Aeroponics comes in two main variations, high pressure and low pressure. The first is also sometimes referred to as true aero. The goal is to shoot water+nutrients in very small particles on and into the roots. It's designed to be used in space stations, in deserts, and on other planets, as in places where water isn't as easily available as for most of us.

The system I use is not a true NFT setup, because I dammed the end of my tubes, making it more like DFT (deep flow technique instead of NFT, which is about having a shallow flow) or as sometimes called in cannabis forums: "flooded tubes".

As you probably noticed, many of the NFT setups still have sprayers, like the AeroFlo created by GH, which essentially makes it a hybrid of NFT with low pressure aero. In practice however, the purpose of those sprayers isn't really to mimic aeroponics, but to keep the fl0w aerated (and frankly makes it look more advanced that it really is). I don't use sprayers any more cause they end up clogging.

So in short, with NFT you simply pump water in one of the tray/tube and let it drain back in the reservoir at the end. The flow and waterfall keep it aerated. To do aeroponics properly, you need an aero root "chamber", as in enough space to let the roots hang freely, and than use a accumulator to periodically spray the roots with high end nozzles instead of the plastic thingies I use.
 
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curious2garden

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#173
caveman4.20 said:
I gotta noob hydro question. What is different about aero ponics then NFT?
Click to expand...

My understanding is Aeroponics is a mist filled chamber vs Nutrient Film technology which runs liquid down the tube. So you'd need misters and pressure. At the rate my top lines in NFT plugged off I never seriously considered it.

Also I have so many basic grow skills to learn it seemed way over my head too. MUCH better answer Sativied!
 
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Sativied

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#174
Here's another page that depicts the difference nicely (haven't even read the text though) :

curious2garden said:
Also I have so many basic grow skills to learn it seemed way over my head too.
Click to expand...
Yeah especially a high-pressure setup is like a whole new hobby by itself, which is almost a requirement too as that at least would make it worth the time and equipment. Surely it can be fun but it's not for me. I like to spend as little time as possible on my grow system.
 
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curious2garden

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#175
Sativied said:
.....snip.... like to spend as little time as possible on my grow system.
Click to expand...

Precisely, it's why for the moment I'm in soilless. It allows for unthinking flexibility until I've figured this out better. I am getting better I'm just not 'there' yet.
 
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Sativied

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#176
I'm considering going back to soil for a few runs. I just can't fit enough plants and tubes in my closet to both grow males and females and still be able to do a somewhat decent selection within the remaining females. I got 6 in hempy now in addition to the ones in the tubes and they are like individual hydro systems to maintain (water, check drain, adjust ph). Obviously automatic watering like a drip system would make that easier but I'd still have to check individual plants.

The main thing is that with soil I can dump all the nutrients in the pot at the start of the run, no measuring of ph and ppm. I can remove individual plants easily, and I can easily move and transplant those when needed (like when on half contains more females than the other side of the closet).

Still have about a month to figure out what I'll do next...
 
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alligator

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#177
The frost on the Swan's fan leaves is a thing of beauty, truly!
Good stuff sativied!
Just dropped my big whorled hazmat og's into flower, can't wait to see her dance.
She turned into the biggest, most vigorious of all the phenos. Interesting thing... She throws 2 main tap roots rather than one.
Pics to come
 
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alligator

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#178
@curious2garden i used to have that problem in dwc, plants would literally bust through the net pots.
Try the retractable yo-yo supports you hang from the ceiling, they worked wonders for me. Plan on at least 5-6 per plant tho.
 
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curious2garden

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#179
Sativied said:
I'm considering going back to soil for a few runs. I just can't fit enough plants and tubes in my closet to both grow males and females and still be able to do a somewhat decent selection within the remaining females. I got 6 in hempy now in addition to the ones in the tubes and they are like individual hydro systems to maintain (water, check drain, adjust ph). Obviously automatic watering like a drip system would make that easier but I'd still have to check individual plants.

The main thing is that with soil I can dump all the nutrients in the pot at the start of the run, no measuring of ph and ppm. I can remove individual plants easily, and I can easily move and transplant those when needed (like when on half contains more females than the other side of the closet).

Still have about a month to figure out what I'll do next...
Click to expand...

Have you tried soilless? I'd like to try soil sometime but I just don't seem to have the time. Soilless just seems to easy, sort of all the benefits of hydro without the soil guesswork.
 
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Sativied

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#180
I've grown in perlite and coco mixed and separately. The thing is, I still have a bunch of nutrient 'tablets' for soil which I used before and they kind of take out the guesswork on soil. They dissolve slowly when watering, releasing nutrients over time. That and a few other organic powders I can premix as well as fertigate (fertilize+irrigate, spell check fails but that's totally a word :) ) and are hard to overdose. Good soil is a widely available commodity here in many varieties so I don't have to premix either, probably add some perlite as usual. So that just leaves watering, which I might be able to automate entirely, but at least will be able to measure with my blumat tensiometer.
 
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Replies 1,013
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Started May 30, 2014
Latest post Apr 14, 2026
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