mtntrogger
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- 18
If I were you, I'd be poring through a few particular peoples' posts. @We Solidarity @Bulldog11
and now I'm drawing a blank on who else. I think @caregiverken ... but I think russets were his problem.
@mtntrogger More help from 50, lol. Another site, but I will help as I can here also.
You need a more blown up picture. I can't see the bugs under that magnification. Do the bugs look like mites, or little worms?
Ha !! Thanks doggie ! So 50 is bulldog ? tricky. :). Tossed all my plants , so a pic from a living plants sample is no longer possible. However, I do have some of the harvested nugs still hanging, a few I left needing a final manicure. So maybe I can get a closer pic from one of those ? I have heard that the mites gather at the top of the stem (opposite the top of the bud) when cut and hung, maybe thats a good place to scope in on ?
I can make a recommendation, but I don't recall if I used a different ratio than what's labeled. ThermX. I believe it's still available at Peaceful Valley Farm Supply.I've been meaning to ask if you can recommend a decent yucca surficant and what application rate you mix it at?
Hi all, another update. Just saw the coolest thing in recent memory. Just flipped some ladies a few days ago and scoped some broad eggs on em. Annoyed is too kind a word. Today saw some noticeable broad damage (yellowing for no good reason) so I plucked a leaf and scoped it. Saw a broad so I zoomed in to 120x to get a good look at the sumbitch and then a fallacis mite ran up, grabbed the fucker, and dragged him off! Started looking around and see the fallacis all over with the naked eye.
So, thanks @Pimp T for nudging me down the predator mite rabbit hole. Now I'm hooked, gonna scoop some more up and keep up the troop numbers. If they're eating then one has to assume they're breeding.
@mtntrogger look into the predator bugs, they took a couple weeks to get established in my room but goddamn they're awesome.
Need to get a scope with a camera for future documentation...
Nice savage ! Good news and update. I recommend a USB scope if you don't already have one.Hi all, another update. Just saw the coolest thing in recent memory. Just flipped some ladies a few days ago and scoped some broad eggs on em. Annoyed is too kind a word. Today saw some noticeable broad damage (yellowing for no good reason) so I plucked a leaf and scoped it. Saw a broad so I zoomed in to 120x to get a good look at the sumbitch and then a fallacis mite ran up, grabbed the fucker, and dragged him off! Started looking around and see the fallacis all over with the naked eye.
So, thanks @Pimp T for nudging me down the predator mite rabbit hole. Now I'm hooked, gonna scoop some more up and keep up the troop numbers. If they're eating then one has to assume they're breeding.
@mtntrogger look into the predator bugs, they took a couple weeks to get established in my room but goddamn they're awesome.
Need to get a scope with a camera for future documentation...
Just wandering what happens to the predators in late flower when all their prey is gone? Has anyone come across this just before harvest?Right on, it is mind boggling how many people don't listen to the advice to order fresh predators on a recurring basis... ! It is so muchhhh easier than all the other crazy band-aid treatments that don't work...
Greetings. Which s scope are you using and where did you get it.Hello all,
So I've been fighting broad mites for a little over a week now and I figured I'd share my actions, progress and research.
I had been fighting root aphids on and off for almost a year which led to me misdiagnosing broad mite damage for at least 6 months, thinking it was nitrogen burn from salt build up in the medium due to lousy uptake from RA damage.
After coming up with a system to deal with the RAs in a preventative manner I was still seeing damage specifically black pistils around week 2-3 of flower. So I took to the boards here until I found pics of similar damage, bought a scope, and sure enough there the bastards were.
I had a bottle of big time exterminator (BTE) on the shelf leftover from the RA war. Their website had instructions for broad mite control:
http://www.bigtimezyme.com/html/faq.html
So twice a day, every other day at 10ml/20oz (or roughly 64ml/gal) with a wagner 590 paint sprayer.
After 3 applications like this I began to see some new unaffected growth on some of the plant, but not all. Mind you, the plants effected are in weeks 2 and 4 of flower. They're still chugging along but the buds on the ones from week 4 look like hell.
Called the number on the BTE website and the guy said to change it up to one spray every other day with the BTE in ice water alternating with plain ice water on the off days. Do this for 10 days he said and the cold will interrupt the breeding cycle. Been doing this the past couple days and it seems fishy to me as the ice water only temporarily cools the plants and therefore broad mites.
So off to google scholar to research some other modes of action and I found this study:
http://www.pvamu.edu/include/TEXGED/Journal/Biology and control of the broad mite Polyphagotarsonemus latus (Banks, 1904) (Acari Tarsonemidae).pdf
Fascinating. Avid (abamectin) is obviously the most effective but spraying this in my house is not an option. What caught my eye were the other controls especially orange oil (d-limonene) and canola oil which at 3 days after application were 97% and 98% effective against adult broad mites.
So, off to the races it is, going to rotate these two new and one old (BTE) modes of action every 3 days and will log my results. Scoping all leaves and counting bugs on them is unrealistic so random sampling from the worst effected plants as well as observing for further damage will be the way to do it I suppose.
Also I will find a leaf with broads on it, dip it in mighty wash, and then scope it to see what effect it has. If it kills em then MW will be added to the rotation.
Any input is appreciated.
Note: with repeat application of BTE the worst effected leaves will curl up and die. The rep told me this is a result of the proteins from the product interacting with the damage already done to the leaf from the broads. But, IMO, those leaves should be removed anyway.
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