Broad Mite Control

  • Thread starter Savage Henry
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
mtntrogger

mtntrogger

45
18
I cut and pasted from another site I posted on yesterday :

well , they got the best of me ... the veg plants I had been treating and had hoped to save all fell prey to these lil beasties. So today, with a very heavy heart I threw out EVERYTHING ; all plants, all of my grow cabs and even my grow tent. I DID save the expensive stuff like lights and fans, but tossed everything else. I have spent literally hundreds of hours on the net researching these creatures on every type of site imaginable. I am planning to restart from seed , However first want to be sure that my environment is as sterilized from these things as possible. Been looking into some heavy bombs; pylon, attain ,big time exterminator, doc doom etc. I need suggestions on what will actually work. I have read about others using pylon... it says on the manufacturers site it says for green house only ie not indoors in your home. Please help out, I just dont want to waste time and money. Here is a few pics of a leaf i removed just before trashing. I believe these are broads
 
151018195653287535265
151018195735287576359
151018195749287590859
151018195832287633906
151018200056287778156
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
If I were you, I'd be poring through a few particular peoples' posts. @We Solidarity @Bulldog11
and now I'm drawing a blank on who else. I think @caregiverken ... but I think russets were his problem.
 
Bulldog11

Bulldog11

2,709
263
@mtntrogger More help from 50, lol. Another site, but I will help as I can here also.

You need a more blown up picture. I can't see the bugs under that magnification. Do the bugs look like mites, or little worms?
 
mtntrogger

mtntrogger

45
18
Thanks seamaiden, I have read every broad and russet thread on here and IC mag , several I have re read more than a few times. Also spent a few hundred hours now looking at other places, like uc davis, jorge, etc , been everywhere ! I should be able to write a book dedicated to these creatures by now !! When it comes to knowledge and research , I would rather overkill, then wonder. I have lurked around here for a while , just never post. Lots of good peeps here. Came here because of MotaRebel.
If I were you, I'd be poring through a few particular peoples' posts. @We Solidarity @Bulldog11
and now I'm drawing a blank on who else. I think @caregiverken ... but I think russets were his problem.
 
mtntrogger

mtntrogger

45
18
@mtntrogger More help from 50, lol. Another site, but I will help as I can here also.

You need a more blown up picture. I can't see the bugs under that magnification. Do the bugs look like mites, or little worms?

Ha !! Thanks doggie ! So 50 is bulldog ? tricky. :). Tossed all my plants , so a pic from a living plants sample is no longer possible. However, I do have some of the harvested nugs still hanging, a few I left needing a final manicure. So maybe I can get a closer pic from one of those ? I have heard that the mites gather at the top of the stem (opposite the top of the bud) when cut and hung, maybe thats a good place to scope in on ?
 
mtntrogger

mtntrogger

45
18
hey 3n will this mixture mess up the walls at all. Aint trying to repaint ! What about carpet ? will this mix beach stain ?
 
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

960
143
@mtntrogger glad to hear I'm not the only one compulsively researching. It takes a lot of work digging through the bickering about avid rotations on the other boards to find the pieces of good advice. Not to mention sifting through the countless research papers but it is satisfying work nonetheless.
FWIW I found that stress levels are reduced once a plan is formed and put into action, so hang in there, boss. These broads are enough to make one feel mentally ill.

@Seamaiden I've been meaning to ask if you can recommend a decent yucca surficant and what application rate you mix it at?
 
3N1GM4

3N1GM4

2,357
263
That mix will bleach or kill just about anything it comes in contact with, I learned it from roger rabbit, an old mushroom farmer from washington. The first time I tried it I didnt wear gloves and it killed all the skin on my hands and forearms, they looked like I had been to laser skin treatments.
What I do is fill a spray bottle with half white vinegar half water and another with 3 or4 inches of peroxide in a spray bottle with some water and spray small areas with both sprays, wait a second or two and wipe the spot dry and repeat over the whole area. DO NOT BREATH THE MIXED VAPORS!
 
Bulldog11

Bulldog11

2,709
263
Ha !! Thanks doggie ! So 50 is bulldog ? tricky. :). Tossed all my plants , so a pic from a living plants sample is no longer possible. However, I do have some of the harvested nugs still hanging, a few I left needing a final manicure. So maybe I can get a closer pic from one of those ? I have heard that the mites gather at the top of the stem (opposite the top of the bud) when cut and hung, maybe thats a good place to scope in on ?

For sure if you have them, they will crawl to the stems and tops of the stems on a hanging branch. Just because I hate them so much, when I see them congregating at the top of a stem, I take the liberty of torching them! Burn baby burn!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
I've been meaning to ask if you can recommend a decent yucca surficant and what application rate you mix it at?
I can make a recommendation, but I don't recall if I used a different ratio than what's labeled. ThermX. I believe it's still available at Peaceful Valley Farm Supply.
 
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

960
143
Hi all, another update. Just saw the coolest thing in recent memory. Just flipped some ladies a few days ago and scoped some broad eggs on em. Annoyed is too kind a word. Today saw some noticeable broad damage (yellowing for no good reason) so I plucked a leaf and scoped it. Saw a broad so I zoomed in to 120x to get a good look at the sumbitch and then a fallacis mite ran up, grabbed the fucker, and dragged him off! Started looking around and see the fallacis all over with the naked eye.
So, thanks @Pimp T for nudging me down the predator mite rabbit hole. Now I'm hooked, gonna scoop some more up and keep up the troop numbers. If they're eating then one has to assume they're breeding.
@mtntrogger look into the predator bugs, they took a couple weeks to get established in my room but goddamn they're awesome.
Need to get a scope with a camera for future documentation...
 
MrBelvedere

MrBelvedere

707
143
Hi all, another update. Just saw the coolest thing in recent memory. Just flipped some ladies a few days ago and scoped some broad eggs on em. Annoyed is too kind a word. Today saw some noticeable broad damage (yellowing for no good reason) so I plucked a leaf and scoped it. Saw a broad so I zoomed in to 120x to get a good look at the sumbitch and then a fallacis mite ran up, grabbed the fucker, and dragged him off! Started looking around and see the fallacis all over with the naked eye.
So, thanks @Pimp T for nudging me down the predator mite rabbit hole. Now I'm hooked, gonna scoop some more up and keep up the troop numbers. If they're eating then one has to assume they're breeding.
@mtntrogger look into the predator bugs, they took a couple weeks to get established in my room but goddamn they're awesome.
Need to get a scope with a camera for future documentation...

Right on, it is mind boggling how many people don't listen to the advice to order fresh predators on a recurring basis... ! It is so muchhhh easier than all the other crazy band-aid treatments that don't work...
 
Last edited:
mtntrogger

mtntrogger

45
18
Hi all, another update. Just saw the coolest thing in recent memory. Just flipped some ladies a few days ago and scoped some broad eggs on em. Annoyed is too kind a word. Today saw some noticeable broad damage (yellowing for no good reason) so I plucked a leaf and scoped it. Saw a broad so I zoomed in to 120x to get a good look at the sumbitch and then a fallacis mite ran up, grabbed the fucker, and dragged him off! Started looking around and see the fallacis all over with the naked eye.
So, thanks @Pimp T for nudging me down the predator mite rabbit hole. Now I'm hooked, gonna scoop some more up and keep up the troop numbers. If they're eating then one has to assume they're breeding.
@mtntrogger look into the predator bugs, they took a couple weeks to get established in my room but goddamn they're awesome.
Need to get a scope with a camera for future documentation...
Nice savage ! Good news and update. I recommend a USB scope if you don't already have one.
 
dexfarm

dexfarm

53
18
Right on, it is mind boggling how many people don't listen to the advice to order fresh predators on a recurring basis... ! It is so muchhhh easier than all the other crazy band-aid treatments that don't work...
Just wandering what happens to the predators in late flower when all their prey is gone? Has anyone come across this just before harvest?
 
MrBelvedere

MrBelvedere

707
143
Don't worry they won't start eating your buds. You should call the professional again and describe your temperature and humidity ranges so they can understand your grow and keep you stocked correctly at a maintenance level according to your environment. And hopefully he can advise you on creating an environment that keeps the predator population strong thru all phases of the grow. good luck
 
Last edited:
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

960
143
It's really defying all logic I previously held about fighting pests. The garden is a straight up warzone. Still seeing damage but where before the plants got the shit kicked out of them and growth slowed to a crawl now they're ripping and running, showing damage but recovering at the same time, I've never seen anything like it. For example, I posted a pic earlier of. G-13 had got/was getting beat the f down, barely any pistils coming out. 2 weeks after throwing some Cucumeris sachets on em I have pistils coming out the wazoo, actually have to let them go a week longer than I planned on. I'll throw up a picture soon to show a before and after.

@MrBelvedere just sent my guy an email with a list of questions. Including how these new friends will work in a clone dome, I'll see what he has to say. Tbh I only ordered about 40% of the amount he suggested, I can only imagine what would be going on if I applied 10,000 fallacis instead of 4,000...
 
pugliese63

pugliese63

297
63
http://www.syngentaflowers.com/country/us/en/seeds/PDF and Other document Storage Library/GoldsmithSeeds_PDF/WhitePapers/Mite Rotations.pdf

Okay, here's a great read regarding mites including broad mites. It is ONLY for plants in veg. Plus you must use safe practices. The key to eliminating mites, particularly broads is rotation of products.

It sucks to have to stray away from organic/natural practices. But, if you have an infestation, which is what most have when they discover it, you don't have a lot of choices. Once they're eliminated you can return organic/natural preventive practices.

One thing to note about broad mites is they are very temperature sensitive. Their ideal temp is in the low seventies. When spring rolls around that's when they are most likely to appear.

I've dealt with them twice. The second time I discovered them I had it under control with new growth within 48 hours and totally eliminated by the second week.

Secondly keep in mind a good rule to follow is keeping everything outside the grow room as clean as inside. That extends to the outdoors. I read this advice here in another thread and have to say it's some of the best I've ever taken. Since implementing this type of practice I rarely have to ever treat for pest indoors. I keep pyrethrum around just in case but it may go stale before I need it again.

Outdoors, around the perimeter of the building, I recommend Cyfluthrin or Bifen with an IGR, such as Nygard, added. An insect growth regulator is the key to long term prevention. This combination is highly effective and safe. These are the same products used to treat dairies and food service establishments. Cyfluthrin and Bifen are synthetic pyrethoids and break down fairly quickly. The IGR hangs around much longer preventing any larvae from maturing. This breaks the reproductive cycle. If your a pet owner like myself you'll eliminate any flea problem as well.

This not for treating your plants just surfaces that don't come into contact with your plants. I use this combo indoors as well, strictly on floors, surfaces and walls that do not come into contact with plants.

I share this since I'm about to do my annual spring treatment. Down here in the south spring has rolled in early, temps are already touching 80, and broad mites will wake up hungry. I can tell its going to be a challenging summer as far as heat is concerned.

Again, if you have the miserable and unfortunate experience of dealing with broad mites, please use responsible and safe practices. I can't overstate this.

You can only effectively and safely treat broads in veg. If you discover them during flower you have no choice but to cut your losses.

I'm not an expert but more than happy to answer any questions I can regarding my experiences in dealing with broad mites.

I have a few other practices I use as well but I'm running out of time. My posts aren't generally this long but I'm particularly passionate about helping others avoid this disheartening experience.

Good luck and have mite free spring.
 
Last edited:
CaliRay

CaliRay

190
28
Hello all,

So I've been fighting broad mites for a little over a week now and I figured I'd share my actions, progress and research.

I had been fighting root aphids on and off for almost a year which led to me misdiagnosing broad mite damage for at least 6 months, thinking it was nitrogen burn from salt build up in the medium due to lousy uptake from RA damage.

After coming up with a system to deal with the RAs in a preventative manner I was still seeing damage specifically black pistils around week 2-3 of flower. So I took to the boards here until I found pics of similar damage, bought a scope, and sure enough there the bastards were.

I had a bottle of big time exterminator (BTE) on the shelf leftover from the RA war. Their website had instructions for broad mite control:
http://www.bigtimezyme.com/html/faq.html

So twice a day, every other day at 10ml/20oz (or roughly 64ml/gal) with a wagner 590 paint sprayer.

After 3 applications like this I began to see some new unaffected growth on some of the plant, but not all. Mind you, the plants effected are in weeks 2 and 4 of flower. They're still chugging along but the buds on the ones from week 4 look like hell.

Called the number on the BTE website and the guy said to change it up to one spray every other day with the BTE in ice water alternating with plain ice water on the off days. Do this for 10 days he said and the cold will interrupt the breeding cycle. Been doing this the past couple days and it seems fishy to me as the ice water only temporarily cools the plants and therefore broad mites.

So off to google scholar to research some other modes of action and I found this study:
http://www.pvamu.edu/include/TEXGED/Journal/Biology and control of the broad mite Polyphagotarsonemus latus (Banks, 1904) (Acari Tarsonemidae).pdf

Fascinating. Avid (abamectin) is obviously the most effective but spraying this in my house is not an option. What caught my eye were the other controls especially orange oil (d-limonene) and canola oil which at 3 days after application were 97% and 98% effective against adult broad mites.

So, off to the races it is, going to rotate these two new and one old (BTE) modes of action every 3 days and will log my results. Scoping all leaves and counting bugs on them is unrealistic so random sampling from the worst effected plants as well as observing for further damage will be the way to do it I suppose.

Also I will find a leaf with broads on it, dip it in mighty wash, and then scope it to see what effect it has. If it kills em then MW will be added to the rotation.

Any input is appreciated.

Note: with repeat application of BTE the worst effected leaves will curl up and die. The rep told me this is a result of the proteins from the product interacting with the damage already done to the leaf from the broads. But, IMO, those leaves should be removed anyway.
Greetings. Which s scope are you using and where did you get it.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom