Broad Mites And Links To Research Articles On How To Win The Fight!

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Nugteq

Nugteq

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Hey farmers I got broad mites from some ass clown clone dealer and wanted to share with you the steps I am taking to defeat the dreaded broad mite, or to be defeated yet to be seen. Will include pics on next post just want to put the info out there for anyone else foolish like me who did not quarantine new clones before introducing them to the grow.

What is and isn't working personal experience with them:

Is Working:
Avid once at 9ml a gallon with ro water complete coverage tops and bottoms with full suit gloves respirator and goggles!
Forbid 4f 3 days later at 2ml a gallon both applications used with Coco Wet
Results: Immediate new growth and vigor instantly returned to infected plants.
Battle far from over though
Every other day of Neem Oil with Coco wet does not seem to do much for active infestation
Perhaps this will work better as a preventative? Although still too early to tell if Neem Oil is helping or not ( it doesn't seem to hurt plants too badly so no sense in not using it repeatedly...)

Does not work against active Broad Mite infestation:
Azamax
Mighty Wash
Spinosad products

In my smaller veg 5x5 tents of juveniles and my other 5x5 of moms I am having much BETTER success fighting them with above listed steps. (Large flower room is not doing as well all plants still in veg state there)

Also after avid/forbid 4 days apart one application I have removed all the plants bleached EVERYTHING and then heat treated all the plants for around an hour at 120 plus degrees. Even after vigor and health came back to the small moms I have (I cut down the canopy to a very small amount of branches and nodes of all plants) the heat proved to be very effective at killing broad mites although unfortunately it just shows you how fucked up these pests are all the upper leaves (the parts of new growth probably infested still with freshly hatched mites) nearly died or did die from the heat treatment. (Theory is that perhaps the damage from the young alive broad mites is so intense inside the plants tissue that it was not able to survive intense heat.) I am happy to say though that the following day the plants do look back to good health yet still obviously under attack. I did not expect to win this within a few weeks, and if I have to cut down my moms and start over so be it.

I will be cutting down my entire room that has been trellised and prepped for flower for the following reasons:
1. Broad Mites move quickly by contact so the plants being trellised allowed for a faster spread of the infestation. Plants that were previously un infested (although all plants would be infested tho perhaps not visibly) were now 2 days after being trellised full blown in the shitter. Twisting of upper leaves from the toxins released by the broad mites. Death of lower leaves and branches infested across 3 4x4 tables.
2. Larger canopy means greater infestation and reducing the plant canopy in this case is not an options with such large plants trellised.
3. Cost of running co2 and electricity during summer months just to simply grow infested plants hit me hard with this months rent and utility bill with no prospect of a crop being harvested any time soon...
4. Therefore it is most likely wisest move to cut down all large plants and begin to quarantine and eradicate room for room. So enjoy and send some positive prayers my way if you got some actual experience with this bug feel free to chime in!

My plan for treatment of room with no plants:
Bleach 20% solution wipe down of every surface. Spray every surface with forbid 4f. Then bomb with pylon tr. And to repeat this process twice. Then i'll bake the fuckers in the room still savage enough to still be alive...every day for a week 120 degrees plus. Then no plants in there for a month or two fuck it just gotta take the big L and start over.

But I refuse to kill my moms these fuckers gonna lose.

So here is my plan of attack for the moms and small rooted clones 1 week in dixie cups

Already implemented and working:
Avid 1x
Forbid 4f 1x 4 days later

About to be implemented:
Magus Miticide (not sure on application rate yet)
Sanmite Miticide Insectide used once after adults killed with Coco Wet
Triact 70 Fungicide Insecticide (will be using this instead of the Neem Oil from now on every other day until get a better handle on these lil fuckers)

Then will go back to Avid one more time for two weeks
Forbid one more time for two more weeks
Triact 70
Magus
Triact 70

Then finish off with Pylon TR foggers 3x over a month and intense bleach wipedowns of alll surfaces and repeat all this once more...so a month long process.

After a hard month of chems..

Will then go to Caps Foliar Pack no brew just mix with molasses and ro water and spray plant surfaces every other day with triact 70 the following day for a few weeks and then just to make absolutely fucking sure I'm gonna implement predatory mites in large populations periodically over the following month with a solid IPM regimen. Next post will be all the links to my Broad Mite research.
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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Best Links to Actual Scientific Data for Broad Mites Compiled here:

https://www.azlca.com/uploads/documents/miticide-guide.pdf
Goes over and defines different mites and miticides. Great info on such miticides as Sanmite 75WP, Akari 5sc, Avid 0.15EC, Pylon 2SC, Judo4f / Forbid 4f, Magus / Magister 1.6SC and Kontos 2SC. All of these listed say on labels for use against BROAD OR CYCLAMEN MITES. There are others on this link that it talks were not effective against Broad mites such as Floramite and Ovation. I highly recommend reading this one!

http://www.tnstate.edu/extension/documents/Broad Mites - TSUNRC Fact Sheet-1.pdf
This is another go to link for excellent info on Broads. Has HD pictures as well as a definitive table of what oils and miticides work and what they kill eggs or adults. Here is that table !

Selected miticides labeled for use on broad mites.
Miticide MOA1* Egg Kill Adult Kill Notes
Akari 5SC 21 No Yes Chemical must contact mites.
Avid 0.15 EC 6 No Yes May be phytotoxic to ferns and Shasta Daisy.
Dormant Oil M Yes Yes Complete coverage essential.
Judo 4F 23 Yes Yes May be phytotoxic to Hydrangeas and others.
Magus 18.79 SC 21 Yes Yes Do not apply to roses.
Pylon 2L 13 No Yes May be phyototoxic to roses and others.
SanMite 75 WSB 21 No Yes Sirocco SC 6+25 Yes Yes
Summer Oil M Yes Yes Complete coverage essential.
Triact 70 M Yes Yes Active ingrediant is a neem oil extract.

1 MOA: Mode of Action. http://www.tnstate.edu/faculty/ablalock/documents/Insecticide MOA.pdf

And finally http://gpnmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/GPNJune17_Dr.Bugs_.pdf
The article is titled dealing with Broad Mites by Dr. Bugs and here is an excerpt from the article...
"First of all, immediately dispose of all plants confirmed to be infested with broad mites. In addition to discarding those plants displaying damage symptoms, be sure to remove plants adjacent to infested plants because these plants, although not exhibiting symptoms, may be infested. There are a number of miticides registered for use against broad mite including: abamectin (Avid), bifenazate + abamectin (Sirocco), chlorfenapyr (Pylon), fenpyroximate (Akari), pyridaben (Sanmite), spiromesifen (Judo) and spirotetramat (Kontos). Miticides with translaminar activity such as abamectin (Avid), bifenazate + abamectin (Sirocco), chlorfenapyr (Pylon), spiromesfen (Judo) and spirotetramat (Kontos) may be more effective because the material penetrates leaf tissues and new terminal growth, forming a reservoir of active ingredient within the leaf or new growing points. Therefore, these miticides are likely to contact broad mites feeding within the meristematic tissues. Biological control of broad mite involves preventative releases of the predatory mites, Neoseiulus cucumeris and N. californicus. It is critical to apply these predatory mites early on in the crop production cycle before broad mite populations become established."

Amblyseius andersoni here is link showing what this mite targets http://www.biolineagrosciences.com/products/anderline/

And just for good measure also implement
A. swirskii. mites here is link to data showing their effectiveness against broads http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/broad_mites_in_ornamental_crops_part_1_challenges_and_treatments

There is some difference of opinion it seems on what type of predatory mite should be used for biological control this article states Neoseiulus cucumeris and N. californicus yet other scientific articles state Amblyseius andersoni and A. swirskii..

So maybe someone can help clarify exactly which type of predator mite is most effective?

Anyways I know its a long read but I've spent countless hours doing my research I hope this info compiled for you is somewhat helpful and please follow along to see if all this stuff actually works at preventing and eliminating Broad Mites for good. Thanks.
 
420Artie

420Artie

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sorry to hear about your infestation ,back when I was growing indoor one application of forbid 4f at like 1.5ml a gallon would kill off russets and keep on killing any newly hatched ones,but that was for russets. if all these chems aren't working it's time to throw in the towel. Your going to poison your self and have resual chems in your grow room for years to come . if I was growing indoor again I would cut everything down and start over from seed. But if you must spray all these chems line your whole room with panda film sides, ceiling and floor so those nasty chems don't stay penetrated on your walls, floors and celing.
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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sorry to hear about your infestation ,back when I was growing indoor one application of forbid 4f at like 1.5ml a gallon would kill off russets and keep on killing any newly hatched ones,but that was for russets. if all these chems aren't working it's time to throw in the towel. Your going to poison your self and have resual chems in your grow room for years to come . if I was growing indoor again I would cut everything down and start over from seed. But if you must spray all these chems line your whole room with panda film sides, ceiling and floor so those nasty chems don't stay penetrated on your walls, floors and celing.
I appreciate you and hear what your saying about forbid and russets. I understand that broad mites are a different type of mite and have different miticides that are more or less effective on them. Forbid can take up to 10 days to do the job but throwing in the towel is just not necessary yet. Although I just threw away all my largest plants, an entire crop just to be on the safe side. I will now focus on attacking the broad mites in its different stages with different chemical miticides, a multi pronged attack in my mom and small veg area, then follow up with organic and biological options after the chems do their job.
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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Ladybugs are amazing lil critters
You try those yet?
Ladybugs only work as a preventative for spider mites, and youd have to actually breed them in your grow to be effective as only the new hatchlings have a large appetite. Adult ladybugs just die. This is for Broad Mites a whole different bug.
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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Here are a few different plants after one treatment of avid 5 days ago and 1 treatment of forbid 1 day ago
Can see some new green growth coming out
On first pic you can see the destructiveness of the BM damage

2nd pic that plant and tent were caught earlier in infestation you can see the distinctive leaf curl at the tips of leaves from the Broad Mites damage

3rd picture this plant was severely infested looked like taco shell leaves when infestation at worst after treatments the plant continually degrades its as if the Broads know their under attack and attack the plant even more

The last one pic is of plants in trellis and were looking very unhealthy during the infestation and now seem to be doing somewhat better. You can see new greener growth and the plants starting to stretch up again. Still there tho you can see the leaf curl...

Here is an excerpt from Raymond A. Cloyd titled dealing with Broad Mites hes from Kansas State University
"In general, broad mites aggregate in groups, feeding primarily on leaf undersides and flowers where females lay eggs. They feed on plant cells within the leaf epidermis using their piercing-sucking mouthparts. Broad mite feeding causes leaf bronzing, leaf margins to curl downward and become brittle, and puckered and shriveled growth (Figure 2). Extensive populations of broad mites will lead to individuals migrating and feeding on the leaf upper surface, resulting in severe leaf distortion. Broad mite feeding damages the meristematic plant tissues associated with the growing tip or apical shoot, which inhibits growth; decreases leaf number, leaf size and area; and reduces plant height. In addition, leaves may appear “roughened” and darker green than normal. Your options for management include sanitation, miticides and biological control."
 
Mainemedz5

Mainemedz5

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Well wherever you found out ladybugs are just a preventative measure maybe they should recheck their information because I've always had great luck with them and if you get enough of them and you provide the house and food/water for them they don't die and they breed and produce offspring , I know countless people that have used them with great results for all different kinds of pests for years
myself included. you just have to take care of them

But then again I've never had broad mites do you have any pictures of what they look like
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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I hear you bro im not saying ladybugs arent useful against some bugs but Broad Mites ineffective thats for sure
Heres a close up of Broad Mites red arrow is an egg
Broad Mites also called Cyclamen Mites
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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This is a different tent of young plants theyve also shown signs of infection but fortunately was caught early on
They've been treatwd with avid and forbid once with neem oil two days and no heat treatment
 
Mainemedz5

Mainemedz5

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Lady bugs are worthless. If you don't solve with avid/forbid combo chop that shit and stop wasting time and money
They work just fine for all of us here in the 207 !
& they're the ones native to Cali so maybe they ain't so useless after all cause we've used them with nothing else but Castile soap and azatrol and were bug free
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

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63
This plant although looking healthy was responding well to the miticides
It was treated with avid and started looking much better
However I began treating this plant and a few others with intense heat treatment as well as daily neem oil foliar sprays
Unfortunately the daily neem sprays clogged the pores and killed this plant and a few others. You can see after 48hours of neem oil spray the change in this plant

Daily Neem oil spraying may or may not kill broad mites-yet it will definitely kill your plant not advised as a Broad Mite treatment
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

521
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From what little I know, if you use Forbid/Avid so close together the mites can develop a tolerance to both.

Ive always used the Forbid 1st, and then Avid 3 weeks later. Both have a 28 days duration, and the Mites have a 3 weeks breeding/life cycle.
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

259
63
On this plant and the entire tent the Broads were caught early.
You can see the slight curve of the leaf at the edge from the damage of the BM - perhaps its the secretions from the Broads which are causing that leaf damage?

These plants all have been treated with avid one time and forbid one time (5 days apart)
After being treated with forbid the edges of the leaves of these plants started to dry out somewhat - my assumption is that this is the forbid drying out the eggs and the most infected parts from the broads being dried out- a healthy response to forbid treatment perhaps ?

Few days later there is new growth coming out without signs of infection

Looks as tho forbid is working well
 
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Nugteq

Nugteq

259
63
From what little I know, if you use Forbid/Avid so close together the mites can develop a tolerance to both.

Ive always used the Forbid 1st, and then Avid 3 weeks later. Both have a 28 days duration, and the Mites have a 3 weeks breeding/life cycle.
My understanding from the research articles ive read state to use a miticide such as avid first to kill off the adult mites then to follow up within 5 days with a different MOA (mode of action) that targets eggs such as Forbid

I belive you are referring to most miticide instructions which state that you should not use the SAME miticide within a 3 week period in order to not create super mites
 
Nugteq

Nugteq

259
63
From what little I know, if you use Forbid/Avid so close together the mites can develop a tolerance to both.

Ive always used the Forbid 1st, and then Avid 3 weeks later. Both have a 28 days duration, and the Mites have a 3 weeks breeding/life cycle.
Also spider mites are different than Broad Mites
Spider mites may have a 3 week breeding cycle or less but Broad Mites have a 3 to 5 day breeding cycle. Check out some of the links I posted on my first post in this thread has a lot of info about Broads
 
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