W
whiskeygirl
- 35
- 6
I just put togethor some Hempys. I think I'm seeing very small bugs in the coco(not on the plant). What is the best way to treat this???
Thanks
Thanks
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
Without knowing what the bugs are, it's difficult to say. This thread was started so folks would have an idea of what emergency products they should have on hand for instances just like this.
Bud Spleefman
Premium Member
Supporter
- 587
- 63
Coco is packaged in places like Malaysia, Viet Nam, you know, places where Coco Nut Trees grow. That's a long way for the bugs to travel, and most brand claim they steam sterlize, buffer, rinse (I don't believ most claims of rinsing, there's limited fresh water where they package coco) I am very interested to know what kind of bugs, and was it compressed coco, or a bag of loose coir, what brand coco, etc... Please advise!
B
BoCo Buds
- 138
- 0
Here's a likely list to work from... springtails (hop), soil mites (oribitid), gnats... less likely aphids. Curious to know myself... from the bag?
W
whiskeygirl
- 35
- 6
These bugs definably are coming from the coco. They fly because I am catching some on my yellow bug strips. My partner believes that they are some sort of aphid. We do not see them actually on the plant.
They seem to only be effecting one of our plants. This plant is lagging behind the others. It kind of looks limp and not taking in nutes but not yellowing.
Product advise???
Thank you
WG
They seem to only be effecting one of our plants. This plant is lagging behind the others. It kind of looks limp and not taking in nutes but not yellowing.
Product advise???
Thank you
WG
Bud Spleefman
Premium Member
Supporter
- 587
- 63
Those are root aphids, they will destroy your crop if you don't deal with them. I am very skeptical that they came from the coco, where did you get the clones, the Dispensary? I know the scene in Michigan is heating up, so will the bugs!
Anyway, a cure is to treat with Bayer Tree and Shrub, comes in a blue bottle, contains 1.47% Imidcloporid (not organic) available at Home Depot, under $20.00 a bottle. Use it at 5 ml a gallon, and water it in. Thouroughly saturate the coco, I mean FLOOD IT! Treat every single plant you have, even your house plants. Then, leave em sit for a few days so the stuff can work. Good luck!
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
Product advise is to go read the thread I linked you to.
If you do have root aphids I cannot recommend using the Bayer Tree & Shrub, it has a LONG life within plant tissues (60 days, it's what has forced me to wait to harvest my own girls) and required 2x treatments and still didn't kill them. Spectracide did when used as a root drench (I flooded the tables), but you must pay attention to harvest windows.
If you do have root aphids I cannot recommend using the Bayer Tree & Shrub, it has a LONG life within plant tissues (60 days, it's what has forced me to wait to harvest my own girls) and required 2x treatments and still didn't kill them. Spectracide did when used as a root drench (I flooded the tables), but you must pay attention to harvest windows.
W
whiskeygirl
- 35
- 6
Thanks Bud and Sea,
I'm going to try the Bayer today. I also have 12 plants in a UC sitting next to my Hempys. These plants look very healthy. Should I also treat them with the Bayer and how would I do this?? I also could quarantine all coco plants from my UC plants if needed, but not sure.
All of these plants are just 1 week into veg.
Thanks again,
WG
I'm going to try the Bayer today. I also have 12 plants in a UC sitting next to my Hempys. These plants look very healthy. Should I also treat them with the Bayer and how would I do this?? I also could quarantine all coco plants from my UC plants if needed, but not sure.
All of these plants are just 1 week into veg.
Thanks again,
WG
Bud Spleefman
Premium Member
Supporter
- 587
- 63
The UC will be even worse, those roots are just hanging there, nothing to inhibit those little bastards from munching like it's an all you can eat salad bar. I run a UC, and a Coco Garden, side by side, and I treat all plants in veg for root aphids, everytime. Seamaiden is right, though, it does have a 60 day persistence, but the Bayer has always worked for me. I treat my UC plants in the flood table, again, at 5 ml, per gallon, flood it to the top, and the little fuckers float dead in the res in about 8 hours........ I usually run it in there for about a week, right before they get transplanted into the UC. You could treat in the UC by filling it all the way to the tops of the net pots, the stuff works both on contact and is systemic, once it's absorbed... I'd add it to the Epicenter, slowly, letting it mix in.... then raise the level..... run it like that for 24 hrs - 48 hrs, then dump everything and start with fresh clean nutes...
M
mcpuffin
- 245
- 63
Believe the hype
Not to say the newly MI med scene isn't messing things up, but believe there are bugs (root aphids especially) in the Coco. I used to grow in mostly coco about a year and a half ago using only Canna coir, and would be plagued by those little bastards. Long story short moved to different area, started growing in only dirt, got new genetics & decided to make a few mom's with a NEW bag of Canna coir bought in the town I now reside (500+ miles from where I used to), and am now cursing because I am dealing with those little fuckers again. Bye bye coco. Bugs be lurkin...:character0110:
Not to say the newly MI med scene isn't messing things up, but believe there are bugs (root aphids especially) in the Coco. I used to grow in mostly coco about a year and a half ago using only Canna coir, and would be plagued by those little bastards. Long story short moved to different area, started growing in only dirt, got new genetics & decided to make a few mom's with a NEW bag of Canna coir bought in the town I now reside (500+ miles from where I used to), and am now cursing because I am dealing with those little fuckers again. Bye bye coco. Bugs be lurkin...:character0110:
H
hay
- 12
- 0
GH coco notorious problem with root aphids
ive read that over and over and.......ive got them
look at stem under soil level there will be small round specs-looks like chunks of fine perlite, but if you look close they will move
NO CHEMICALS will deal with them (in my opinion)
all i did is pressure cooked the coco, but you have to do it all at once.
good way to test it is put clone into soil. these bugs will go to close faster than to actual plant, so this way you can test which container is contaminated.
best option is at the end of cycle PRESSURE COOK EVERYTHING, and disinfectant everythign else w/ bleach
ive read that over and over and.......ive got them
look at stem under soil level there will be small round specs-looks like chunks of fine perlite, but if you look close they will move
NO CHEMICALS will deal with them (in my opinion)
all i did is pressure cooked the coco, but you have to do it all at once.
good way to test it is put clone into soil. these bugs will go to close faster than to actual plant, so this way you can test which container is contaminated.
best option is at the end of cycle PRESSURE COOK EVERYTHING, and disinfectant everythign else w/ bleach
COCOLOCO
- 141
- 28
Bayar Fruit and Nut Tree. Same as Tree and Shrub but doesnt have the crap fert... Kills root aphids.
F
Farmer Jon
Premium Member
Supporter
- 412
- 18
Root Aphid Info
Root aphids colonize and suck juices from roots in many mediums including rockwool, “grow rocks”, coco, and soil. If plants
appear to wilt, to have stunted growth, or have unhealthily coloured foliage and lose leaves prematurely, and the normal problems (pH,
over-watering, nutrient levels, etc.) are not responsible, then suspect root aphids. Root aphids are voracious eaters, and are known to
be persistent, so it requires some discipline to eliminate them. Some experts suggest treatment every other day, for a minimum
of six treatments.
Root Aphids are small light green or off-white oval-like creatures with or without wings, which live on the roots of plants. Just like their
counterparts above ground, they feed by sucking sap, but from roots instead of stems or leaves. There are several species of Phemphigus
(root aphids), and unfortunately, when they are feeding in the soil there are few, if any, winged adults around to warn you. Many times
root aphids will apear with or without wings, but in either case will not fly.
Once a problem has been identified with the plants, the first thing growers will notice on the infected root system is the white wax that
looks like snow-flocking covering the infected spot. The affected roots often split. Root aphids tend to build up populations at the edge
of rootballs. Female aphids give live birth to nymphs, and a clustering of aphids builds up on concentrated areas of the root system. Small
populations are not a problem; however, when populations become high, the plants are reduced in vigor.
Azatrol:
After ingesting Azatrol an insect can’t feed. They feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they can’t form a
pupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die. See other ---Info Sheet--- on Azatrol/Patrol for more information.
Azatrol Application Rates:
Start with 1-2 gallons of Reverse Osmosis (purified) water and add Azatrol (1-2 oz. for every 20 gallons in the reservoir.) Mix it well inside
the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir one would
mix 1-2 oz. of Azatrol in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix well.
Use every week in hydro or soil (1-2 oz.to 20 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative. We
recommend using with Patrol for an even more lethal combination.
In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer, so it’s not that
big of a deal if the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.
Green light Tree and Shrub Systemic:
Green Light Systemic uses a nicotine derivative to control aphids. It is called imidacloprid and it works. It should be used as a
systemic feeding to plants over time. Ideally start using before population is too Large.
GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic Application Rates:
Apply 1 - 3 tsp./ Gal. Soak the roots.
Bonide Systemic:
This is the harshest stuff that we have found. It will kill larvae, root aphids, and just about anything else in the medium. Make sure
you apply, then FLUSH 3-5 hours after application. Apply to one plant first, then apply to rest of garden.
Systemic killer Application Rates:
Mix 1oz. per 10 Gallons of solution or 1/2 oz. per 5 Gal. After application, make sure to FLUSH 4-5 hours later. Repeat as necessary.
Nematodes:
These microscopic worms are pretty awesome. They only effect soft-bellied insects like fungus gnat larvae (no animals - so don’t worry!)
Nematodes get sucked up into the guts of the larvae, and begin to colonize and multiply and multiply and multiply until they finally burst
open the stomach of the larvae (dealing it out a very nasty death) and releasing more nematode colonies into the medium in the process.
Nematode Application Rates:
Apply 1 Million (1 packet) Nematodes per each “grow light” in your grow space. Each packet of nematodes is dropped and mixed into a
1 Gallon container of water (pH as normal) then hand applied to each plant. Then remove sponge and toss into reservoir.
Taken from a radom site found with the search terms "Nematodes for control of root aphids"
FJ
Root aphids colonize and suck juices from roots in many mediums including rockwool, “grow rocks”, coco, and soil. If plants
appear to wilt, to have stunted growth, or have unhealthily coloured foliage and lose leaves prematurely, and the normal problems (pH,
over-watering, nutrient levels, etc.) are not responsible, then suspect root aphids. Root aphids are voracious eaters, and are known to
be persistent, so it requires some discipline to eliminate them. Some experts suggest treatment every other day, for a minimum
of six treatments.
Root Aphids are small light green or off-white oval-like creatures with or without wings, which live on the roots of plants. Just like their
counterparts above ground, they feed by sucking sap, but from roots instead of stems or leaves. There are several species of Phemphigus
(root aphids), and unfortunately, when they are feeding in the soil there are few, if any, winged adults around to warn you. Many times
root aphids will apear with or without wings, but in either case will not fly.
Once a problem has been identified with the plants, the first thing growers will notice on the infected root system is the white wax that
looks like snow-flocking covering the infected spot. The affected roots often split. Root aphids tend to build up populations at the edge
of rootballs. Female aphids give live birth to nymphs, and a clustering of aphids builds up on concentrated areas of the root system. Small
populations are not a problem; however, when populations become high, the plants are reduced in vigor.
Azatrol:
After ingesting Azatrol an insect can’t feed. They feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they can’t form a
pupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die. See other ---Info Sheet--- on Azatrol/Patrol for more information.
Azatrol Application Rates:
Start with 1-2 gallons of Reverse Osmosis (purified) water and add Azatrol (1-2 oz. for every 20 gallons in the reservoir.) Mix it well inside
the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir one would
mix 1-2 oz. of Azatrol in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix well.
Use every week in hydro or soil (1-2 oz.to 20 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative. We
recommend using with Patrol for an even more lethal combination.
In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer, so it’s not that
big of a deal if the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.
Green light Tree and Shrub Systemic:
Green Light Systemic uses a nicotine derivative to control aphids. It is called imidacloprid and it works. It should be used as a
systemic feeding to plants over time. Ideally start using before population is too Large.
GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic Application Rates:
Apply 1 - 3 tsp./ Gal. Soak the roots.
Bonide Systemic:
This is the harshest stuff that we have found. It will kill larvae, root aphids, and just about anything else in the medium. Make sure
you apply, then FLUSH 3-5 hours after application. Apply to one plant first, then apply to rest of garden.
Systemic killer Application Rates:
Mix 1oz. per 10 Gallons of solution or 1/2 oz. per 5 Gal. After application, make sure to FLUSH 4-5 hours later. Repeat as necessary.
Nematodes:
These microscopic worms are pretty awesome. They only effect soft-bellied insects like fungus gnat larvae (no animals - so don’t worry!)
Nematodes get sucked up into the guts of the larvae, and begin to colonize and multiply and multiply and multiply until they finally burst
open the stomach of the larvae (dealing it out a very nasty death) and releasing more nematode colonies into the medium in the process.
Nematode Application Rates:
Apply 1 Million (1 packet) Nematodes per each “grow light” in your grow space. Each packet of nematodes is dropped and mixed into a
1 Gallon container of water (pH as normal) then hand applied to each plant. Then remove sponge and toss into reservoir.
Taken from a radom site found with the search terms "Nematodes for control of root aphids"
FJ
H
hay
- 12
- 0
QUOTE "GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic"
it did not work upon repetitive app 3-4 days apart
...sorry to say over and over..
it did not work
pressure cooker STERILIZATION AND CUTTING, in reality was much quicker than stinky baths and neighbors reaction?----are u painting anything??
the fact bugs were just buggin' w/it
I could continue with doses but it would kill the plant
neverless i see how it can impact commercial growers, or outdoors
...this is becoming vineyards worst nightmare.
those F!!@#! even look like ticks or bedbugs
it did not work upon repetitive app 3-4 days apart
...sorry to say over and over..
it did not work
pressure cooker STERILIZATION AND CUTTING, in reality was much quicker than stinky baths and neighbors reaction?----are u painting anything??
the fact bugs were just buggin' w/it
I could continue with doses but it would kill the plant
neverless i see how it can impact commercial growers, or outdoors
...this is becoming vineyards worst nightmare.
those F!!@#! even look like ticks or bedbugs
K
Kobe24
Guest
Root APhids... Mother of God ...Good and Evil...I hate those lil bastards.....in all honesty...all my friends thats have encounterd these Silent Assasins came to the conlusion ....THROW EVERYTHING AWAY! Nuke your rooms...start over...unless your just about to harvest....these things will haunt you...they are the Grimm Reeper of your garden....I know people that have moved locations due to them...its one the reason i grow from seed and Im terrified at times to get cuts..you just never know...no matter how clean you are ...
Kingboy
Genetics
Supporter
- 117
- 63
Fungus gnats,root aphids... Black Gold Coco Blend
A friend of mine recently purchased a pallet of Black Gold Coco blend and noticed a milky white residue or fungus in the soil, just at the surface between the soil blend and bag. It seemed to be in every bag. Could this be a sign of the fungus gnat or root aphid?
A friend of mine recently purchased a pallet of Black Gold Coco blend and noticed a milky white residue or fungus in the soil, just at the surface between the soil blend and bag. It seemed to be in every bag. Could this be a sign of the fungus gnat or root aphid?
I
IVIars
- 181
- 16
Check out the Root Aphid thread, its got alot of info in it
Cannanugget
- 132
- 18
Hopefull Stoner
- 230
- 43
damn i'm sorry to here what has happend for 2 reasons.
1st. is i know it's a pian in the add and 2nd. is that i just decided to grow in coco once i get started up ; which btw should be in approx. 2 mths.
i wanted to use coco for speed, of growth and equalizer to growing a strain tha would flower 10 longer then my 60 day ideal.
my other choice was pro mix , but i didn't want to get the pro mix bx and use it inside, did it before and didn't like the results of those water granules inside that mix.
if i did find the pro mix / sunshine mix i wanted locally i was gonna use diamateuous earth mixed in to kill any thing in the medium.
i have used D.E. top dressed to win against fungus gnats suprizingly quickly, the speed of results were because i caught them early imho. You can also water in D.E. on plants that are affected. when u top dress do it lightly but cover it well, anything that tries t come through will die.if u use too much top dressing i have heard it will make water go to the sides etc. ( just read that yesterday) the way i did mine didn't affect normal watering at all.
i think these are regular aphids, but i swer a thread spokeof the root ones. so forgive meif they are not the right ones. picturs are great though imho.
1st. is i know it's a pian in the add and 2nd. is that i just decided to grow in coco once i get started up ; which btw should be in approx. 2 mths.
i wanted to use coco for speed, of growth and equalizer to growing a strain tha would flower 10 longer then my 60 day ideal.
my other choice was pro mix , but i didn't want to get the pro mix bx and use it inside, did it before and didn't like the results of those water granules inside that mix.
if i did find the pro mix / sunshine mix i wanted locally i was gonna use diamateuous earth mixed in to kill any thing in the medium.
i have used D.E. top dressed to win against fungus gnats suprizingly quickly, the speed of results were because i caught them early imho. You can also water in D.E. on plants that are affected. when u top dress do it lightly but cover it well, anything that tries t come through will die.if u use too much top dressing i have heard it will make water go to the sides etc. ( just read that yesterday) the way i did mine didn't affect normal watering at all.
i think these are regular aphids, but i swer a thread spokeof the root ones. so forgive meif they are not the right ones. picturs are great though imho.
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