Updates are less frequent now because I'm back to working in my office full time Mon-Fri. Haven't gotten as far on the the room as I'd hoped, but that's ok. If I meet my deadline on my first project I'll be getting an 50% raise; can't argue with that.
Okay. I picked up like 7 tubes of this acoustical sealant caulking, also made by Green Glue (though others sell it as well).
Around the entire perimeter I laid a thick bead along the base plates to seal those up, and also a bead up one of the corners that had some gap.
I also plan to use the sealant in the cracks of the inner drywall layer, and also around ventilation ports, to try and make the room nearly completely sealed.
Today I hauled in a bunch of drywall. Wonder what the neighbors are thinking, I'm sure some have been watching me unload 4x8's.
This purple drywall is for the inner layer. It is high impact resistant, mold resistant, Type X (fire rated) 5/8". It is heavy as f*ck. Considerably heavier than a standard 5/8" Type X sheet.
I'm using standard Type X 5/8" as the inner layer because it won't need impact or mold resistance and it's less than half the cost of the purple stuff. Also, the two different density materials might provide better sound proofing characteristics as each density has different resonant frequencies and absorption characteristics.
At this point I am more concerned about screws holding all the weight than I am about sound leaking out. There are only a couple of more techniques that could be used - floating floor, full cover of mass loaded vinyl or lead, and maybe resilient channels (but I wasn't sure they'd handle the weight), or more double walls. All of those seemed prohibitively expensive.
But with all that mass (it's alot), and green glue and the whole room wrapped in roxul - it may be so quiet inside as to induce hallucinations!
I've been cutting lots of OSB sheets, so I thought I'd show you guys the track system and from
Eurekazone that I use.
What's so great about this track system is that if you can draw a line, or even mark two points, then you can make a perfect cut on that line. So that's the first thing I do, mark my cut. Some of the walls already in place were not square, this let's me cut on any angle and I can make panels fit unsquare corners with consistent spacing all around.
So I mark my cut.
Then here's the bottom of the track. This clamps the rail onto the board.
Everything in this system is so well designed. There's a spring on one end of the clamp so that it's under tension and resists moving and coming out the end, but still slides smoothly. The owner of Eurekazone is some Greek-American carpenter who has a lot of opinions on how to do safe, productive wood working and he designs and builds all his tools. I have the 118" track saw combo with clamp extensions you can cut pieces under an inch thick. I have a miter/square that can connect to the track, as well as repeater stops for cutting many pieces to the exact same length, and finally I have the full kit to attach a router which enables so much awesomeness. Anyone in the market for woodworking tools should check this stuff out.
On the saw I attach a base that rides the rail. The saw's a Makita 5008MGA. Nice saw, dust collection could be better, though.
Your cut is as good as your placement. It's hard to explain how safe cutting this way is. I built furniture in a prison workshop on traditional equipment (table saws, etc), and a circular saw on a good track is so much safer than a table saw and that gives you confidence to operate your equipment. It also let's me have a whole workshop in a lot less space than traditional floor equipment takes - not to mention it doesn't all weigh hundreds of pounds like big shop equip.
Finished cuts are right on the money. The table is also a Eurekazone product. They send you the tracks and mounting hardware. You provide a 2'x4' 3/4" board (it's OSB) and all the 1x slats. The two on each end swivel and it holds a full 4x8 perfectly. The banquet table legs under the board fold up for storage, too.
When you want to cut down the 8' side of a board you connect the two rails.
The rails align themselves perfectly every time due to the shape of the channels the connectors are in.
Anyways, towards the front of the room I put in a layer of pink XPS foam over the roxul to help prevent any heat signature from showing through the front wall.
The last piece I had to cut for the ceiling was this part with the duct cutouts. It has only one 90 degree corner and four different length sides - 22", 21 13/16", 19 3/4", and 20 1/16" - lol. But I just marked it off going out from the 90 and zipped each egde of with the rail - and it fit perfectly first shot!
Here's a shot of the soffit covered. I stuffed every crevice with Roxul in there too. Drilled a 9/16" hole for the AC cable, it's a pretty good seal and I've been liberal with that acoustic caulking.
There's more done, but I don't have more pictures yet. Sorry to drag it out so long on everyone but I wanted to do the thread in real time.