If you have more soil than that to treat, here is a method that may be helpful:I am not sure how many gallons of soil you are dealing with. Something to ponder when dealing with hard species of bugs is if can seperate the soil from used flowering plants from veg plants.
Once current finishes flower take that soil and pasturize it like mushroom growers do. You wet the soil take handfull of medium squeeze it until 1 or 2 tiny drips of water come out of it, then put it in the oven at 160F or lowest setting and let it cook for a solid 12 hrs. Mushroomers go shorter because they use less medium, can go 24 hrs if want to.
Granted your medium will be dead no fungi, no bacteria. Just mix a act add molasses so it has fungal and bacteria in it, brew for 8 hours so still has bacteria not fungal dominate brew, use eath worm castings, fish hydroslate, and what ever you wish.
Once tea is ready apply to your pasterized soi. If you can put the pasturized soil in a tote with a seed heat pad in center of the pile, use act and let rest for atleast a week your bug issue will be gone. Be sure to use steps to prevent soil being used in the infected area.
If its coir turn hot water heater to max let it heat up for 3 hours, apply the hot water on the coir wait 45 min replace the hot water. If have a good hose not cheappie can hook it to water heater instead of buckets.
I had thrips from bag soil, i pasturized it, fed it act, gave it bit of time to do its thing and they never come back. If dont have big enough stock pot turkey bags are great to use. Iuse turkey bags fill them full leave top open stand them up and fill oven full.
It comes down to cycling the soil, cleaning the room immaculant daily for several days and keeping it seperated. Bugs have no chance against a wash cloth with alot of pressure being rinsed on every stroke from being squished. This ensures nobody is hanging around or there eggs.
Have had alot of bug issues from bags of dirt and coir. Now if its new soil its pasturized in the oven before use and rests, coir is pasturized with hot water 45m soak,drain and repeat, and do it for 8 hours. Granted once coir is pasturized its rinsed and cal mag, 1/4 strength veg nute for a day then used. This is done as a prvenative with anything i have not worked with. If i get the errant bug from somewhere in my grow i do this again.
I am not a user of the word organic, i do want to limit chems but sometimes there needed to finish a run. If you pasturize after you know theres an issue, and are anal for a week in a cleared out room wiping evey surface ceiling to floor,equipment, i mean everything, and keep the bug plants away and contained while they finish this will KILL anything in the medium, just need to make it living with what you want except for pests, those need to die. I know you need to keep using bacteria species for there preventions, not saying dont include bt, bti ect in your grow.
Just trying to help those that have or want to prevent gnats,mites,thrips ect from buying products and keep having issues.You can have eggs on clothing and get pest issues. Keep it clean,use bacterias to help they are your personal army. Nothing is not fail proof but when have a failure cook them and let mother nature use them to your advantage, not thiers.
Edit- if have a meat thermometer check the center bag or the center of the pile for temp. Once the center of the midle bag or the center of the pile is 160F then start your time.
While that might be true in an airlocked setp, mites are acarians they are so little that they can travel on the wind.Here is a thing I believe.
If you find a mite, it is not a predatory beneficial unless you introduced it.
You think they went away.I had mites in my worm bin once (different variety than ever seen in the garden).
Started feeding to lower level and they went away.
The Slimmish ones are hynoaspis miles bugs. Fyi.Ok so far i checked:
Worms bin and they are there in numbers, i mean they have been always there i just confirmed they are the same i found in the potted plant.
View attachment 668569
View attachment 668611
There seem to be the two variety (The round and the slimish one, the slim one i could not get a decent shot)
I also checked my underwater FG larva by fishing 2 of them after 8 days submerged into what was an H20H solution.
They are still alive and kicking.
Both Mites and FG Larva took about 3 minutes immersed in 90¤ Alcohol to die.View attachment 668547 View attachment 668548
I put potato on every plant and will let them for a few hours and back to the microscope to see what got into them.
I will try to harvest some more from the Worm Bin as to try my UV flashlight again as i think it killed the ones i was trying to illuminate on the first set of pictures.
Also I will try drowning them in a petri dish as I read that bulb mites wont survive.
The Mites don't move much in the worm bin but when light hits them they go crazy and move fast.
This is the only course of action that I've read will work. H. Miles in particular are soil dwelling predators. When I can actually get look at my soil and i can see them crawling all through the soil in search of prey. They aerate the top layer also. The bulb mites aren't really affected by biological IPMs that must be ingested such as neem or spinosad. I've read that nematodes can't get em. Hell from what I can see they like eating karanja cake!!! wtf. they were all over the half melted pellets.Mites from hell - unkillable! Hope you get it sorted bro. A friend has used predatory mites before, but only on a small scale with some clones. They worked for him, but unsure how you'd go on a larger scale. Worth a try at least.