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Thank you, I'll have a look now :)The one I was using is MIA but still has charts that go by leaf/ room temp difference.VPD Calculator
Solve For: Temp RH VPD Temp (F) Temp (C) RH (%) VPD Air (kPa) Leaf Offset (F) Leaf Offset (C) VPD Leaf (kPa)pulsegrow.com
Vapor Pressure Deficit VPD Calculator - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Lights
Vapor Pressure DeficitCalculator Calculate both Room VPD and Leaf VPD automatically Just enter the value below to generate the VPD values for your room and your plants. You’ll need to know the room’s temperature, relative humidity, and the plant’s temperature. We recommend calibrating your...www.dimluxlighting.com
I stated looking at leaf temps about a year ago and stopped about few weeks later was driving me Mad lolI've thrown vpd charts and leaf temps out the window since switching to leds 4 or 5 years ago. Your RH is good,,, temps just a hair on the high side,,, just a hair. I don't like to see mine go over 80f. Seedlling to 3 weeks veg 80% RH then slowly bring it down from 3 weeks on through flower with air movement in the tent. I veg with two HLG 100 V2 between 24" and 30" off the top of the tallest plant in 3' x 3' tent. The 4000k light keeps the plants small in veg and packs the nodes tight, keeping stretch low while the root system grows like crazy. Will go to two HLG 260 Rspec with UVA-30 for late veg into flower. Keeping temps between 76/80f and slowly dropping RH from around 75% to 50% RH at the end of flower. If your getting onion skin leaves your lights are to close. Par is higher than the leaves can handle. IMHO
I need to do some reading again lol slays something new to learn, i did chance at this stuff a few months ago and been meaning to look into it I'll try the app I heared the can be out tho.I find using VPD ,PAR and LUX to be a safe and most efficient way of managing light height, strength and temp/RH .
The plant has changing demands in every aspect I mentioned through its life cycle .
I use the photone phone app for PAR and LUX [ does DLI also ] .
Only good PAR meter for real is the Apogee for $500 now IMO.
You have to able to control light, heat and RH completely to use the info to its fullest IMO.
A lot of folks swear by that light company. I'm in the USA so I'm firmly in the HLG camp and run there 100 V2's in veg and 260's that look like your light for flower. The last 4 years or so I had one of the old style 260's in my 3' x 3' tent for flower. But recently upgraded that light to Rspec boards and a new driver. Then bought another 260 Rspec kit and a UVA-30 and tied them all together with a piece of plate aluminum. I have no use for a par meter or some janky cell phone app. MIGRO and others do all the par testing I need and with the manufactures specs I'm good to go. Thanks for the testing gents.I stated looking at leaf temps about a year ago and stopped about few weeks later was driving me Mad lol
I tried many diffrent ir guns and the didn't seem accurit all guns giving slightly diffrent readings
Think ill order a par metre, what's hps lux init? I need par for led?
I have the lights below dimmed to 150w , 60cm away from plants
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Ye the look identical,A lot of folks swear by that light company. I'm in the USA so I'm firmly in the HLG camp and run there 100 V2's in veg and 260's that look like your light for flower. The last 4 years or so I had one of the old style 260's in my 3' x 3' tent for flower. But recently upgraded that light to Rspec boards and a new driver. Then bought another 260 Rspec kit and a UVA-30 and tied them all together with a piece of plate aluminum. I have no use for a par meter or some janky cell phone app. MIGRO and others do all the par testing I need and with the manufactures specs I'm good to go. Thanks for the testing gents.
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So you taking air temps in the canopy not at the plant tops like me is it ?I want my RH 40-50% for most of flower and maybe under 40% last weeks .
Depends at the end .
To help with my leaf temp besides moving light or decreasing % I have my fresh air on circulating fan come in low on floor and keep fan sensor for temp about half way between canopy and light .
I'd tied all places aswell hahaMy outside air fan[ thus room temp] is controlled by temp sensor between top of plants and light .
I think where you take room temp from can effect the whole room if it controls the room temp .
I am still experimenting to some degree but feel real comfortable on a common sense level this is where I want room temp dictated from .
I had the sensor both higher and lower and it does effect the over all room IME .
I’m running that same UVA bar for the first time this grow. I just upped it today to 12hrs. I started it at 2hrs and increased another 2hrs each week. I got to 8hrs and got tired of moving and climbing over plants. So when I watered today and moving plants around I jumped to 12hrs instead of 10. Hopefully plants won’t fry, lol.A lot of folks swear by that light company. I'm in the USA so I'm firmly in the HLG camp and run there 100 V2's in veg and 260's that look like your light for flower. The last 4 years or so I had one of the old style 260's in my 3' x 3' tent for flower. But recently upgraded that light to Rspec boards and a new driver. Then bought another 260 Rspec kit and a UVA-30 and tied them all together with a piece of plate aluminum. I have no use for a par meter or some janky cell phone app. MIGRO and others do all the par testing I need and with the manufactures specs I'm good to go. Thanks for the testing gents.
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Ye mine are the same My ballast are mounted on top of my lights .My ballast are mounted on top of my lights .
Light height definitely effects my leaf temp as does %. My lights are 100% being in flower now .
If you can feel any heat with your hand next to light then it transmits heat . The board is definitely hotter then air [use your IR gun] .
De foliating also helps with canopy leaf temps.
I blow fans just above canopy and in between lights .
On a related different note I don't see much on pot temp .
Mine are always lower then room temp by 5-7 degrees+
I have a insulation board now blocking the cold air in on one side my pots to attempt to protect them to some level .
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