Capulators First Mpb Run, And First A Documented Garage Conversion.

[Capulator]

Dizzle I just PMd you.

I got some long ass roots growing down my drains. 3-4 footers, and pretty thick. I pulled some back through and some snapped of course... and I chopped some and just pulled them out. A little root pruning.

Did you experience this in any of your MPB grows..?

 

[TrichromeFan]

That happens to all MPB & UC grows. I was always checking mine at least weekly, till they were too big to lift the lids.

-TF

 

[Capulator]

I guess if it clogs Ill just have to add another drain on the fly...

 

[Capulator]

So here is my nutrient schedule this run for the MPB only. The coco got the same nutes (brand, ppms etc), but I have been watering a little different. The coco get a 40 gal res full of food (same as the MPB). That lasts them about 2 days giving them about 3 gallon each/day on a short cycle timer. Then they get another res of food. Then they get a res full of PH 'd water. SO: FOOD x4, water x2, repeat.

For the MPB:

Weeks 1-4 :
JR peters Hydro at 2.9 grams / gal.
Epsom salt at 0.1/ gal
JR peters CaNO3 at 2.0 grams/ gal.

I sprayed at week 4 with calcium25 because that's when I found out about it, but I will be spraying my plants every week veg---> week 4 flower from now on in all of my grows.

Weeks 4,5:
Same as above, but added ROCK RESINATOR () @ 1.5 mL/gal, for a K boost and to continue adding tricontinol. The rep at the max yield convention told me that was what ROCK had in it, and gave me a bunch of free samples. Since I cant spray with Ca25 anymore, I add this.


I am not sure if I will change the formula now to get closer to a 2-1-4 to get rid of the N the last few weeks of flowering. Any input on this from someone who is familiar would be welcome!!!!


Also, I was doing add backs of pure RO, but stopped that 2 weeks ago. Now I just let the plants drink and monitor the ppms and pH. Once the pumps are about to start sucking in air, I change the whole thing out. This has been around every 4 days. I feel this is a better way of doing things, since:

1) I know how much they are drinking
2) If the ppms stay around the same I know they are eating enough
3) I do not fuck with my ratios this way at all.

My pH drifts up to 6.5 every day religiously, and I drop it down to 5.5.


Finally, and this is something I forgot to add here when I did it:

WHEN I ADDED CO2, I AM ONLY RUNNING 800 PPM. I READ THAT ANYTHING OVER 1000 is a WASTE. I AM SAVING 1 TANK FILL A WEEK THIS WAY.

 

[nMEEKS]

Cap, Everything looks awesome, like a jungle in there, must be great walking in every time! I really like the espalier plants along the wall, I consider how i could make that work in my setup every time I look at those photos. I think the 1000+ ppm being a waste may have to do with augmenting CO2 in a greenhouse setting, but don't quote me on that. From what I have read, and it makes sense when looking at the science behind photosynthesis, is that the more light you introduce to the plant, the more sugar is can generate, up to a point. That point is based on how much available H20 and CO2 it has. So if you are running 1000w bulbs in air cooled hoods and keeping your plants 12" from the glass or closer, your plants will be able to take advantage of those higher CO2 levels like 1200 or even 1500 ppm because of much higher light intensity. This is also why raising CO2 levels in a room under fluorescence is not going to increase growth dramatically, because they already have all the CO2 they need without adding any for the light intensity they are getting. I hope for all our sake that you can prove this to be wrong, because that would save quite a few people a lot of money. Keep up the good work!

-Meeks

 

[Capulator]

Cap, Everything looks awesome, like a jungle in there, must be great walking in every time! I really like the espalier plants along the wall, I consider how i could make that work in my setup every time I look at those photos. I think the 1000+ ppm being a waste may have to do with augmenting CO2 in a greenhouse setting, but don't quote me on that. From what I have read, and it makes sense when looking at the science behind photosynthesis, is that the more light you introduce to the plant, the more sugar is can generate, up to a point. That point is based on how much available H20 and CO2 it has. So if you are running 1000w bulbs in air cooled hoods and keeping your plants 12" from the glass or closer, your plants will be able to take advantage of those higher CO2 levels like 1200 or even 1500 ppm because of much higher light intensity. This is also why raising CO2 levels in a room under fluorescence is not going to increase growth dramatically, because they already have all the CO2 they need without adding any for the light intensity they are getting. I hope for all our sake that you can prove this to be wrong, because that would save quite a few people a lot of money. Keep up the good work!

-Meeks

Meeks,

Thanks. Take a look at this thread:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=191007&highlight=myth+high&page=24

scroll down to post 358. Thats where I got my info from.

The whole thread is an epic read, and inspiring in many more ways than just this little bit. I hope at some point I can be on the same level as some of the cats who lead the thread, and some who pop in and out of it as well.

 

[nMEEKS]

Very interesting! Thank you for the link, I am almost convinced to do this now myself! I will probably run it at 800-1000 now for sure, unless my plants end up so close to the light that I feel like trying out higher levels. It is tough to take data like his "Co2 saturation point for most higher C3 plants is ~1,000 ppm" completely at his word. That data was almost certainly collected in a greenhouse setting using natural sunlight conditions. There are few industries outside of ours that are profitable while growing under artificial light, and so most serious scientific testing is not done to include situations where extremely high light intensity is involved. Sometime over the weekend I will give the thread a read from the start, seems like some big time players who take their shit seriously are posting there for sure! Always down to learn something new tho, and I really got sold when he mentioned that keeping ppm at ~800 will allow for a sealed room to not be vented at the start of the night cycle. This is nice for me because I will have to manually open the air-in vent when I want to vent my room, and I don't want to have to be in the grow room every night right when the lights kick off. Thanks again for the link.

-Meeks

 

[Capulator]

The girls are really starting to develop now. Changed the water today after 4 days, to 1.7 EC at 3-1-2 ratio. Added some more rock resinator.

temps are at around 81, RH at 40.

Fired up both dehueys today for the first time. The AC keeps the RH around 50 but at night when the AC is off it creeps up to 75. Gonna run the dehueys 24/7 now til the end to keep the RH down around 40.

Everything is perfect (knock on wood). I feel like I am having a great stroke of luck with my timing on everything. The plants filled out just right, and I made the right decisions at the right times (ie the added screen for the kosher), even though I second guessed it many, many times.



As parapa the rappa would say:

"You gotta believe!"

The 3 colombian landraces I brought back are so good under the 1k. I am really looking forward to how they will turn out.

Sorry for the cell phone pics. Ill see if I can get in there with the SLR next time.

 

[singlespeed]

Dude those things are monsters! It looks like a weed cave. LOL

 

[moodster]

thats a sweet setup bro cant wait to see what they produce for ya

 

[Capulator]

Dude those things are monsters! It looks like a weed cave. LOL

thats a sweet setup bro cant wait to see what they produce for ya

Thanks guys. I am am very much looking forward to the end of this run, as long I can get there with no significant hiccups...

:sweating :sweating :sweating :sweating :sweating :sweating


THEN:



:cool0041::cool0041::cool0041::cool0041::cool0041::cool0041:

 

[Capulator]

:mad0233:

 

[Capulator]

:icon_animal26:

 

[mrdizzle]

looking good man, what were your plant centers

 

[Capulator]

48"

If I were to run the same strain again I would like to expand to 60" centers (ideal I think), but I would have to eliminate 9 plant sites (the whole coco grow).

I already determined tying branches up/back/down is worth having the 9 extra sites.

Plus, the tangerine is pretty stretchy. I think if I had gone with the cannadentials like I originally wanted, I would have been perfect.

 

[raincheck]

Great thread so far, lots of great information and links. Looking forward to seeing the turnout!

 

[Capulator]

:banana1sv6:

 

[Capulator]

anybody know what this is?

I keep thinking Cal deficiency. I added CaCl2 to the mix to boost Ca by 50ppm. Now, I am worried it just may be a toxicity of sorts, since I see leaf tips curling up...

No rhyme or reason. Some plants look better. Leaves closer to the light seem to be affected more. Seems like the smaller plants are actually showing the symptom less.

Gonna flush them for 12 hours and push the reset button on the nutes, minus about 300ppm (.7 conversion)

 

[Capulator]

Also...

does anyone know if a bigger plant takes a little longer to flower? I cant remember right now.

I could have sworn this tangerine was like 65 days, but it doesnt seem developed enough yet..I think it is gonna need more time. UNless I took cuts off the wrong pheno. that would blow, cuz that one is like 13 fuckin weeks and I dont think I coudl sweat that long with the MPB..

 

[Capulator]

100 yo-yo's = Not enough yo-yo's

Took one casualty the other day, when one big bud dropped in to a 1k.

Foliar fed Ca25 again. I really didn't run enough Ca this time. I have added CaCl2 at .14 grams per gallon to raise Ca by 50ppm.

I am going to hit the plants with ca25 every week through the 6th week of flower from here on out (not saturating buds, just a light misting of leaves)

My last res change was closer to a 2:1:4 ratio. I am dropping the N and adding a little P this week.

N:100
P: 56
K: 190
Mg:76
S: 100
Ca: 150

The buds are starting to blow up now. I was worried because I am sure the Ca deficiency stunted growth a little, but I think they will recover. I am going to let them go an extra week I think.

Ordered some diamond super fine sulfate of potash and some MKP to really hit the numbers I want next round.

The kosher kush is looking bomb on the jacks formula in coco.