S
Spuzzum
- 71
- 8
So don't advertise a 560 watt as a 1200 watt (equivalent), call it what is is so folks can make true comparisons ... simple ain't it?
Exactly :passingjoint:
I'm completely aware of the math CereaLED, and the fact about temperatures and fluctuating wavelengths.. that's what happens when a light is increased or lowered.. just like the chandelier in mom's dining room on a dimmer switch. I'm building my own panel, and have been studying this for months.. 2/3's the way there. :)
All I was saying, is that if you have 100 3W cree's, but set them at 700mA, for roughly 1.5W.. that doesn't mean you have a "300W panel".. now does it ;)
But what the specs don't show you, is how much the led's are set at.. ie: the panel's "output" wattage. It tells you 1200W "equivalent", but "only draws 580W".. pretty efficient, eh? But.. tell us what the led's are set at, then we can see how much overhead there really is. As I told you, I'm building my own, and have been studying this, trying to make mine the most efficient as possible. Well.. if things aren't designed correctly, the damn thing can use just as much power as a hid. A 250w hps uses 300w for the ballast.. if the driver being used has 90-95% efficiency, a 250w panel will actually draw 262.5 to 275w. But if the driver's only 85% efficient, as the "Meanwell's" seem to be.. well that's 287.5w. And if just using resistors.. could be as high as 300w.. just like a hid.
By the way.. if the manufacturers use proper heatsinks, then even driving at max wouldn't be too much of a problem.. as long as fans are used as well. Take a look at what the "coral reefer" community does.. they've been using 3w Cree's for quite a few years, growing coral in saltwater tanks.. 18" deep. And they're replacing 400w metal halides to do it ;).
Cheers.......... :)