Chris' Grow Show: First DWC ISS Scrog 250w

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Chris1

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Hey guys. I swapped out the 2 8 gallon res for 1 18 gallon res today. I bumped the girls up to the "Growth" stage of the GH Simple recirculating chart, @ 1/3 strength.

So I added Grow 12.5ml/g @ 1/3, Micro 7.5ml/g @ 1/3, Bloom 2.5 ml @1/3, and Floralicious Plus 1 ml @1/3 strength. Sound good??


The plants are looking great, the growth is insane!! Pics soon...
 
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Chris1

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Hey guys here are some updates. Grabbed some DM Zone and applied it at 1.5 ml/gallon. My roots are starting to look more tan :rain I'm thinking of maybe putting the tote into another tote with ice to act as some sort of insulator...I dunno. M temps are about 74, but were 78 this morning bc the fan wasn't on...:rain:rain

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justiceman

justiceman

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Lookin good man! In my experience so far leaf fringes standing up and leaf curling usually happens from elevated nutrient levels coupled with high heat. Do you check the temps of your reservoir?

I once read an article where people kept the rez temps at 68. They then tried running the grow room at about 85-90. Heat stress was non apparent because the root temps were good.
 
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Chris1

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The room temps are low, actually the lowest of all my grow attempts! Haha it stays consistently 76-77 with light on. I once tried scrogging with a 250 in a very small cabinet...my temps were 90+ on the regular haha. Still got some dank:harvest:


So those were posted 4 days ago...wow, the plants are HUGE compared to those pics.



Pic update soon...
 
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smokestack23

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Not familiar with the GH numbers but 1/3rd strength sounds good. I NEVER have run full strength and like you say...growth is always unbelievable. Definitely not asking for more food.
You CAN get em dialed-in perfectly if you watch the TDS or EC. If you get em to the point where the EC is staying the same as the plants deplete the res...that's the concentration they prefer. I've never...NEVER seen plants "want" full strength. I'm sure there are strains that do..or some nute companies' "recipes" require it but not mine.

you say your roots are tan colored...are you using tap water? I got tan roots when I HAD to use tap water for a few days in my RDWC. No slime or anything...just truning tan from white. I went back to RO and all the roots that grew were white again. the tan ones stayed tan colored.
I don't gamble with tap water.

Oh BTW...I just did a res change and added the Zone FIRST ;).
 
DC105

DC105

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Looking good! Theys should really start taking off now that you bumped up your nutes! Temps are great!
 
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Chris1

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Uh oh


So 2 days ago I opened my res and it smelled HORRIBLE. Definitely rot, it was stankin bad. I added 5 ml of zone to my solution, and the next day the smell was still prevalent, but not as bad as the day before. Today the growth has seemed to resume, as they have now reached the screen which is 12 inches above the netpot.


My ppm was going up, went from 550 to 650 in 36 hours. So I did a res change, backed up on the solution to 1/4 strength, and bumped the zone to 2ml/g, which is .5ml/gal less than recommended for aggressive feeding.


Sound ok??? This is my first run and hydro
 
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hell9

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Nice. You mentioned earlier that you thought the clones might have come from different plants. Both plants look very alike now. What do you think yourself?

What are you using to bring air into your rez? Ive just started using DWC, and reckon I need more fizzy in the rez so Im looking into getting some extra pumps. Any advice?
 
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smokestack23

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uh oh is RIGHT!
Hopefully you grabbed that first aid kit I recommended. If so you should be OK. Brown algae doesn't usually stank. It can start with BA then get rot or pythium..which then will STANK.
With the first aid kit though you should be able to fix either root trouble (algae or rot&pythium). Stanky usually means rot/pythium. H2O2, bleach, Zone, SM90..should be able to deal with it. Strange that you got it while using Zone though. I usually give 2ml/gal of Zone as a preventative (even though my res temps are well below 70).
If it's brown algae (which shouldn't stink) then the Great White should eat it up. If not..the physan will. I'd try the GW and then clean the system with physan to combat the algae.

You HAVE to keep your res temp below 70 and keep ALL light from getting in.

I was going to do DWC. I was planning on a weekly perpetual harvest...but..that would have been too much of a pita.
I would have had to mix a bunch of different nutes for the different stages, would have to SOMEHOW lift the lids to get at the buckets, need "holding buckets"' for cleaning and adjusting nutes...didn't want the nutes just sitting in the buckets in the heat of the room...

I decided to fab-up a RDWC system or two so I could do a monthly harvey. All I did was install a pair of 3/4" drains in each bucket bottom 180deg apart then with elbows, I joined the two drains into one junction at the front of each bucket and installed a shut-off valve. I then went from the shut-off to the main 3/4" drain line that leads to the res. The reses are in the laundry room where it stays nice and cool.
In each res I have a fifteen dollar, 160gph submersible pump that feeds a 1/2" line that runs into the room and in between the buckets. from it I have 2 1/4" lines going to each bucket's netpot. No drippers, just a constant pour. Cheap and easy!

At first (after deciding against straight DWC) I was just going to add a 5th bucket to each 4-bucket system to act as a "control" bucket. It would just be linked to the drains of the other 4 pails. That way I could adjust nute levels and change-out nutes from the one control pod. I decided to spend the extra $50 (for 2 systems) and go (fake) rdwc.

So...If I were you...I'd at least add a control res. But..if I were me...I'd just make it into RDWC. You'll get added DO from the water movement, you'll have better access to the nutes, you can keep a res in a cooler room...and...it's CHEAP!!!!

For the small amount of $ it'll cost you it'll improve your system by leaps and bounds.

Again...I'm a strong proponent of using pure (RO or Distilled) water. I know..a lot of people use it and some even say it's better to use tap water but...I had problems with it where I live.

I don't know if it's a scientific fact or not but when you start doing DWC or RDWC..or US or E&F....you'll soon begin to think, like me, that the roots are the most important part of the plant. Keep them happy above all.

Kinda like..if you're gonna grow indoors...EXPECT the cops to show-up one day..and be READY for it to happen. Same with roots in these types of hydro systems. EXPECT EVERYTHING that can go wrong with them to (it will) and be ready for it.
If you can keep your roots happy, everything else (nutes, additives, mold, mildew, bugs, deficiencies, toxicities..EVERYTHING) is easy. If your roots aren't working...fagedaboutit.
 
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Chris1

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I'm definitely going to run an rdwc my next go. Thanks for the input.



How do I check the res with the plants tangled in the screen? It's been a bitch to get into it ever since they've grown through...
 
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smokestack23

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I've often wondered that about SCROGers. I have cages around my bushes that sit on the floor. I guess they check roots the same way I do...they don't?

I have one plant that is uncaged and I can check that one. It aint easy though. I COULD get at the caged ones too if I had to I suppose but..it would have to be a serious emergency.

Great question.
 
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Dubsta

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hehe love the little 250w grow. I'd hop on craigslist and buy a 400w setup for like $40. I found tons of 400w ballast for $20 i use for my breeding tents. Bought a lot of 20 for $150. Just have to wire them yourself if u get the ones like i got that were from a warehouse. always use a brand new bulb never the ones they give you witch have bee n used for years most likely. I also had a bunch of sheel metal laying around and a bender and made a bunch of ballast boxes to hold them. Used some rivets and a cheap rivit gun i got from goodwill for $1.. They work like a champ now and dont look like they used to hang from a roof. ~dubz
 
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Chris1

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Nice. You mentioned earlier that you thought the clones might have come from different plants. Both plants look very alike now. What do you think yourself?

What are you using to bring air into your rez? Ive just started using DWC, and reckon I need more fizzy in the rez so Im looking into getting some extra pumps. Any advice?


Yes I would say they are the same cut now, the bigger plant has had better roots from the beginning, which is why it is larger now I'd imagine. I'm using aquarium pumps for air. I'd recommend trying to grab those air stones that are like fishing weights. They sick to the bottom and pump out mad air, and you don't have to worry about them flipping over and sucking:harvest::harvest:
 
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Chris1

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Lights off pics



Here are some pics with lights off. Obviously having leaf issues on some of the older fan leaves...

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stems are red on the infected leaves...

ph is 5.9
 
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Chris1

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Pic update


After boosting zone to 2ml/zone (and dropping the ppms back to 500), my plants have been bumpin. By far the fastest growth I've ever seen first hand haha. Screen is filling in nicely, but I'm thinking of carefully changing it out for a plastic screen, something nicer on the leaves. I bought a submersible water pump to change out the res easy.

The are still in veg. I'm thinking of flowering soon. I haven't changed my ph in 4 days, its just locked in at 5.8

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Chris1

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I flipped the switch on them today. I changed out the chicken wire for a green plastic screen that has larger holes and is much friendlier on the leaves.


I used 30% of 10 10 10/gal for 'transition'. How long should I run that? 10 days?? Thanks
 
justiceman

justiceman

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Lookin good man the plants are healthy for sure. Nice call on changing out the chicken wire.

As for the transition period I suppose 7-10 days should be fine. To be honest I'm not really experienced in hydro, but theoretically that's about how long the transition period lasts.
 
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Th3Jungl3Boy

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I recommend you to drop the PPM even more! I'd have them at 300 and slowing increase through the week.
I have some plants vegetating in the same system using DM Nutrients, bigger than yours at 300 PPM and they're doing just fine.
Good luck!!!

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