Clu048 1812 97cri 4000k And Add. Spectrum Qs.

[FutureGrower]

Also I dont own a par meter to test my ppfd I read others numbers eith similar setups and decided what should be best without spending the extra $2-500. That's just my choice because I'm too broke for that lol!

 

[FutureGrower]

Ah ok, besides possibly having less output which i think the difference would be negligible the spectrum is better with 80s i can see.
I did a 18 cbx1830 setup (2 6500K 70cri, 6 4000K 80cri, 10 3000K 90cri) i would have gotten 80cri s instead of 90 but it wasn’t on stock.
This works as a strip too and when in flower and 18 cobs lit up there will be a very nice distribution. I don’t like when people put 1 100w cob at the top of each plant. But strips or qbs are nice too.
View attachment 841943 View attachment 841944

That's a badass setup! Very nice brother, and thank you for the breakdown. That's the biggest reason I went to the strips is they seemed a little cheaper to get a similar spread but I damn near went with 12 of the growmau5 pucks. It would've been a way cooler setup just was more then I wanted to spend

I have alot of love for cobs even though it sometimes sounds like I don't :)

 

[stanfiem]

That's a badass setup! Very nice brother, and thank you for the breakdown. That's the biggest reason I went to the strips is they seemed a little cheaper to get a similar spread but I damn near went with 12 of the growmau5 pucks. It would've been a way cooler setup just was more then I wanted to spend

I have alot of love for cobs even though it sometimes sounds like I don't :)

Also I dont own a par meter to test my ppfd I read others numbers eith similar setups and decided what should be best without spending the extra $2-500. That's just my choice because I'm too broke for that lol!

Here is where I am at. Apogee Light par meter to test numbers of fixtures I Build.
I am thinking of Using this driver to test 2 of them in parallel.
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H-C

This should suffice correct. if I run the 2 cobs at 2100ma then that should be cool right. My question is The chips i have run from 46v minimum with a typical being 52v and max being 56v max. If I run these chips in parallel on this driver will they blow The driver is rated for 119v max but 2 chips max would be 52x2 or does the driver only provide what the chip tells it it needs. OR to put another way do the chips share the voltage in parallel or does each chip receive its own constant voltage like it would its current or does it change.
https://www.amazon.com/Apogee-Spect...ocphy=9010378&hvtargid=pla-491562880467&psc=1

 

[crimsonecho]

Here is where I am at. Apogee Light par meter to test numbers of fixtures I Build.
I am thinking of Using this driver to test 2 of them in parallel.
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H-C

This should suffice correct. if I run the 2 cobs at 2100ma then that should be cool right. My question is The chips i have run from 46v minimum with a typical being 52v and max being 56v max. If I run these chips in parallel on this driver will they blow The driver is rated for 119v max but 2 chips max would be 52x2 or does the driver only provide what the chip tells it it needs. OR to put another way do the chips share the voltage in parallel or does each chip receive its own constant voltage like it would its current or does it change.

https://www.amazon.com/Apogee-Spect...ocphy=9010378&hvtargid=pla-491562880467&psc=1

You add up voltages if you’re connecting in series. In parallel you add up currents.
In series you will need 120v 2000ma, in paralel you will need 52v 4000ma driver.

 

[stanfiem]

When you say the spectrum is better with 80 how do you mean? PPFD Lumens Better Growth same strains? Honestly If you save me the time and money by going with 80cri then tell me I am wasting my time.

Also What 80? Not all 80s are the same. Could it be possible that with 80s and 97s you could cover more of the color wavelengths and get even better results than just say just 80s against just 97s(these numbers being only what the specific cob provides with said spectrum.

So lets say we get use some 80s that cover 300-400 blue and then 97cri to add 430 to say 640 and then use some reds to add more reds above 700 to extend the peak. Or does it not work like that.

I want to state here I am in no way trying to tell you you are wrong or fight with you. I am trying to learn so when I ask you why you say it is better I am just curious and trying to learn from you. Also thanks for the pics None yet on my end.

Where did you get your holders and wires and heatsinks? Also what brand and gen are you using? I may purchase some to test

 

[stanfiem]

You add up voltages if you’re connecting in series. In parallel you add up currents.
In series you will need 120v 2000ma in paralel you will need 52v 4000ma driver.

what if i got a 102v 2100ma driver would that work as well?

 

[crimsonecho]

what if i got a 102v 2100ma driver would that work as well?

No it will not you should get a driver rated higher than the combined max voltages of those chips. 56x2. This is if you’re wiring in series.
For parallel you need a 56v driver with 4amp current output to run 2 at 2000.
I suggest connecting in series its easier.
You really have to look this shit up. This is dangerous stuff.

 

[stanfiem]

No it will not you should get a driver rated higher than the combined max voltages of those chips. 56x2. This is if you’re wiring in series.[/quote
For parallel you need a 56v driver with 4amp current output to run 2 at 2000.
I suggest connecting in series its easier.
You really have to look this shit up. This is dangerous stuff.

No it will not you should get a driver rated higher than the combined max voltages of those chips. 56x2. This is if you’re wiring in series.
For parallel you need a 56v driver with 4amp current output to run 2 at 2000.
I suggest connecting in series its easier.
You really have to look this shit up. This is dangerous stuff.

I'm Sorry man my response was not thought out I will take my time in the future i was not aware you were so fast at responding. I meant to add if ran in series. I am asking here because i know how dangerous it is I am not buying anything until i fully understand and know i am not doing anything out of spec or dangerous. I have dealt with electrical work in the past and my job deals with such matters i am just new to The led side of things.

So take this driver for example it is rated for https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H-C
If i got the c2100 model and ran them in series I would be ok. The driver has this on note two under the rating of 52v-119v

"In the constant current region, the highest voltage at the output of the driver
depends on the configuration of the end systems.
Should there be any compatibility issues, please contact meanwell"

This means that the driver is only supplying max what the system{or the 2 cobs} need?Is this correct? Because what is confusing me is if i have them in series then the voltage is constant as well right? so it would be a constant 52v and 2100ma with the only thing changing is the so the what is increasing the wattage? so [52x2.1]*2 is this the wattage required? so 218w so the driver is rated for 250 and should be ok?
EDIT:*2

 

[crimsonecho]

I'm Sorry man my response was not thought out I will take my time in the future i was not aware you were so fast at responding. I meant to add if ran in series. I am asking here because i know how dangerous it is I am not buying anything until i fully understand and know i am not doing anything out of spec or dangerous. I have dealt with electrical work in the past and my job deals with such matters i am just new to The led side of things.

So take this driver for example it is rated for https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H-C
If i got the c2100 model and ran them in series I would be ok. The driver has this on note two under the rating of 52v-119v

"In the constant current region, the highest voltage at the output of the driver
depends on the configuration of the end systems.
Should there be any compatibility issues, please contact meanwell"

This means that the driver is only supplying max what the system{or the 2 cobs} need?Is this correct? Because what is confusing me is if i have them in series then the voltage is constant as well right? so it would be a constant 52v and 2100ma with the only thing changing is the so the what is increasing the wattage? so [52x2.1]*2 is this the wattage required? so 218w so the driver is rated for 250 and should be ok?
EDIT:*2

You have to calculate 2x56=112v. Thats the voltage requirement. Current will not add up in series. So 2,1 amps.
Driver needs to be over 112v and provide 2,1 for connecting in series.
Wattage of the driver is not important. A driver could be 240 and provide 52volts and 4,6 amps. All wrong for your application.
But 119v and 2100ma will work in series.

 

[FutureGrower]

Here is where I am at. Apogee Light par meter to test numbers of fixtures I Build.
I am thinking of Using this driver to test 2 of them in parallel.
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H-C

This should suffice correct. if I run the 2 cobs at 2100ma then that should be cool right. My question is The chips i have run from 46v minimum with a typical being 52v and max being 56v max. If I run these chips in parallel on this driver will they blow The driver is rated for 119v max but 2 chips max would be 52x2 or does the driver only provide what the chip tells it it needs. OR to put another way do the chips share the voltage in parallel or does each chip receive its own constant voltage like it would its current or does it change.

https://www.amazon.com/Apogee-Spect...ocphy=9010378&hvtargid=pla-491562880467&psc=1

So I'm just being honest I'm not the best at cc I designed a few like 5 months ago but that's it. But to my knowledge it isn't common to wire parallel on a constant current driver, and I may just be missing something but I believe that driver should run 4 of your cobs in series.(based off 47 volts I think that's where they start)

I just did super basic and rounded to 50volts at 1 amp would be 200 volts used. That driver has a 238 volt limit (for the 1050) and you'll be using around 200 watts between 4 cobs (a little less or more)

In constant current drivers you pick whatever current you want then you find the voltage it needs. I do not remember if the drivers minimum voltage needs to be exceeded by your cob. I'm hoping I'm not confusing you too much.

But if you have a 1 amp driver it will be a constant current throughout all your cobs of 1 amp. Each say 36volt cob takes its 36 volts and passes the rest of the current to the next cob, and it keeps going till it loops into your drivers power. Look at it like passing a joint, better yet a pizza. Everyone gets a slice of pizza but you have to make sure that you have enough pizza to get back to your electrical driver. You want to get these numbers close though otherwise you're wasting a little money buying more drivers than you need. It shouldn't take up extra electricity just more up front money (If I'm right.)

But if you get a 1 amp driver all cobs will be driven at the same 1 amp, they dont share it like they do the voltage.

This link is way better then what I can teach you. I hope I'm helping and not making things more confusing for you

http://ledgardener.com/selecting-led-cobs-matching-drivers/

 

[FutureGrower]

Also to really mess with you unfortunately voltage isn't constant on COBs the lower you drive them the the less voltage they take so it's a tiny bit of a guessing game but generally you'll be in right range. It's just something to keep in mind. I can answer whatever I know and I never feel honest questions are stupid.

The only stupid questions are asking things you already know or aren't actually interested in learning.

 

[FutureGrower]

Oh one more thing. Watts might be determined by volts multiplied by current, however if you are running on a 120v circuit you'll have additional losses. You can upgrade your electrical setup to 240v to minimize losses. When I say losses you'll still have the same 200 watts coming from the lights but If you get a wattage meter it will be pulling closer to 250 watts or so just from efficiency losses. I think I overshot with 50 watts i just cannot remember the percentage of losses from a 120v plug.

Seriously tell me to leave you alone if I'm confusing you please I wont be offended I promise :).

 

[crimsonecho]

So I'm just being honest I'm not the best at cc I designed a few like 5 months ago but that's it. But to my knowledge it isn't common to wire parallel on a constant current driver, and I may just be missing something but I believe that driver should run 4 of your cobs in series.(based off 47 volts I think that's where they start)

I just did super basic and rounded to 50volts at 1 amp would be 200 volts used. That driver has a 238 volt limit (for the 1050) and you'll be using around 200 watts between 4 cobs (a little less or more)

In constant current drivers you pick whatever current you want then you find the voltage it needs. I do not remember if the drivers minimum voltage needs to be exceeded by your cob. I'm hoping I'm not confusing you too much.

But if you have a 1 amp driver it will be a constant current throughout all your cobs of 1 amp. Each say 36volt cob takes its 36 volts and passes the rest of the current to the next cob, and it keeps going till it loops into your drivers power. Look at it like passing a joint, better yet a pizza. Everyone gets a slice of pizza but you have to make sure that you have enough pizza to get back to your electrical driver. You want to get these numbers close though otherwise you're wasting a little money buying more drivers than you need. It shouldn't take up extra electricity just more up front money (If I'm right.)

But if you get a 1 amp driver all cobs will be driven at the same 1 amp, they dont share it like they do the voltage.

This link is way better then what I can teach you. I hope I'm helping and not making things more confusing for you

http://ledgardener.com/selecting-led-cobs-matching-drivers/

Gonna give you another analogy. One helped me understand better how constant current works.
Voltage is like a door and current is the people who are trying to get in.
If you have a door thats theoratically ten foot wide, its ok. You have limited amount of people coming in every second (constant current). So no overcrowding. If you have a door that cannot acomodate people coming in every second then people will get stuck, same number of people coming in (constant current). Its better the get a bigger door.
This only applies to constant current and constant voltage drivers (tho analogy should be tinkered with a bit for contant voltage).
If you didnt have constant current driver then every volt you add would require more current to run thru the chip. Voltages and current exist in relationship to each other. If this was the case then more volt would require more current and this would quickly exceed the max rated amps for the chip and burn it.
Since we have constant current, its better to aim the highest volts we can get per chip as when they get hotter or ran at high amps like 2 they will require more voltages.

 

[FutureGrower]

Gonna give you another analogy. One helped me understand better how constant current works.
Voltage is like a door and current is the people who are trying to get in.
If you have a door thats theoratically ten foot wide, its ok. You have limited amount of people coming in every second (constant current). So no overcrowding. If you have a door that cannot acomodate people coming in every second then people will get stuck, same number of people coming in (constant current). Its better the get a bigger door if the people coming in are limited.
This only applies to constant current and constant voltage drivers.
If you didnt have constant current driver then ever volt you add would require more current to run thru the chip. Voltages and current exist in relationship to each other. If this was the case then more volt would require more current and this would quickly exceed the max rated amps for the chip and burn it.
Since we have constant current, its better to aim the highest volts we can get per chip as when they get hotter or ran at high amps like 2 they will require more voltages.

I never considered that, but one other potential advantage is the heat off the driver should be lower (you may have said this I'm having a brain fart and my phone is refusing to let me scroll up lol)

My driver adds probably 1/8th of the heat as a single item as my entire system. Probably more when its cranked up that thing gets as hot to the touch as my LEDs (in the 90-95 degree range on a thermo gun)

 

[crimsonecho]

I never considered that, but one other potential advantage is the heat off the driver should be lower (you may have said this I'm having a brain fart and my phone is refusing to let me scroll up lol)

My driver adds probably 1/8th of the heat as a single item as my entire system. Probably more when its cranked up that thing gets as hot to the touch as my LEDs (in the 90-95 degree range on a thermo gun)

Yeah the drivers running at peak will cause that. There has to be like 20v margin at least imo. The hotter electronics run, the shorter the lifespan. I left about 50v unused at each driver and they run very cool. Toasty and warm only. Now 50v is too much, its not economical i did it because i had the drivers and i could possibly run 4 with each but didn’t want to ran anything at the absolute max. I had the drivers so i connected 3 to each. Now they run at 98v 700ma for each series of 3. Driver rated for 148v max. Truth is when you see the data sheet its not even that. Its more like 142v.

 

[stanfiem]

Thank you for all of the replies. I have a lot to go on Today i will be picking the drivers and hopefully the heatsinks. None of what you guys is confusing me I am understanding and learning from both. https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=ELG-240-C

ELG-240-C1750 Is what I am looking at. How does this seem to you guys Running 2 cobs Sound good? I am going with this drive with this controller Bluefish controller.


The next step is the wires what wire should i be using for these. and the cob holders and heatsinks if everything above looks good.

https://www.rapidled.com/34-canopy-rail/
3 of these rails with 4 per rail is this cool?

 

[FutureGrower]

I'll try to reply later tonight to see if all is good no time right now

 

[FutureGrower]

So I semi lied. I had time to checkout the driver if I remember right your cobs rub between 49 and 56 volts, at 1750ma you'll be closer to the 56 volt. The 1750 can only carry 13x 140? Volts for that size driver so I'm afraid that will only run between 2 and 3 cobs at peak.

Not that this cannot work! I've heard of people using 50% peak power on drivers but I would need to do research. I'll do it if you're genuinely interested

If you're looking to run 4 of your cobs off a single driver I'll see what options I can find for you later, just ask so I know you're interested in it :)

 

[stanfiem]

So I semi lied. I had time to checkout the driver if I remember right your cobs rub between 49 and 56 volts, at 1750ma you'll be closer to the 56 volt. The 1750 can only carry 13x 140? Volts for that size driver so I'm afraid that will only run between 2 and 3 cobs at peak.

Not that this cannot work! I've heard of people using 50% peak power on drivers but I would need to do research. I'll do it if you're genuinely interested

If you're looking to run 4 of your cobs off a single driver I'll see what options I can find for you later, just ask so I know you're interested in it :)

I was planing on running 2 off of that driver. Sure if you want to see what drivers. will work that would be fine. I would like to have some voltage headroom.

HLG-480H-C1750 I think this may work https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-480H-C

Do you think that is enough heatsink for these cobs... from rapid led.

These holders...
https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com...r_citizen_clu048_1212_1812_1818_cob_chip.html

 

[FutureGrower]

I was planing on running 2 off of that driver. Sure if you want to see what drivers. will work that would be fine. I would like to have some voltage headroom.

HLG-480H-C1750 I think this may work https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-480H-C

Do you think that is enough heatsink for these cobs... from rapid led.

These holders...
https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com...r_citizen_clu048_1212_1812_1818_cob_chip.html

Oops I'm sorry!

The first will work great for 2 cobs! The second one will work for 4 cobs at 1750 and 6 cobs at 1400(maybe more since lower voltage I'm doing my math based on 55volts to assume on the high side)

But just be careful the 2 different drivers will perform very differently. If it costs about the same go with the HLG I believe they have 4 percent better peak efficiency. Should save some bucks down the line but really not a big deal lol.

For the holders I would contact cobkits.com and ask them just to make sure. I'm almost positive they'll work though.

The bluefish controller is something I want down the line I'm jealous lol! Great unit and to my knowledge is completely compatible with 0-10v pwm. Whatever drivers you're looking at just ask if its compatible, places like rapidled seem to be fantastic with their customer service answering those types of questions.

The rapid led light rail should work. I cannot remember what type of space you're covering but it may be a little packed to run 4 cobs at 1750ma on 1 rail. I may be wrong but you can also dim it if it's too intense. The heatsinks I have no personal knowledge but when you look at the reviews people seem to be happy with their heatsinks. Reasonably price at $20 a piece. I always have liked active cooling for cobs, I think that's just me being over the top though and those should do good for you.

I believe you're good to go brother.

Anyone want to confirm this? @sixstring maybe?

If I didnt answer or answered too vaguely just ask man I dont want you to be confused and need to rebuy something:)