[tobh]

CO2 is a waste of time if you aren't (a) fully isolated [sealed room with internal a/c, dehumidifier, heat, etc], (b) running uber high temps [80F at min] and (c) running uber high lumens + feed. Otherwise, it's a wasted effort. Gotta hit 1200+ PPM at lights out from my understanding, and that's damn near lethal for humans to even breathe.

The idea of running yeast + sugar in water is just begging for pest issue imo. Call me out on BS.

Been doing this shit for years and CO2 is like that attractive piece you see walking down the street when you go to get lunch with your girl -- sexy to look at, but if you ain't committed to pursuing it, you're setting up a fight back home.

 

[jaguarlax]

The idea of running yeast + sugar in water is just begging for pest issue imo. Call me out on BS.

No BS here, but 1200 ppm shouldnt be harmful to humans, the room I work and sleep in stays around 1000ppm and I havent noticed any effects.

 

[Aqua Man]

CO2 is a waste of time if you aren't (a) fully isolated [sealed room with internal a/c, dehumidifier, heat, etc], (b) running uber high temps [80F at min] and (c) running uber high lumens + feed. Otherwise, it's a wasted effort. Gotta hit 1200+ PPM at lights out from my understanding, and that's damn near lethal for humans to even breathe.

The idea of running yeast + sugar in water is just begging for pest issue imo. Call me out on BS.

Been doing this shit for years and CO2 is like that attractive piece you see walking down the street when you go to get lunch with your girl -- sexy to look at, but if you ain't committed to pursuing it, you're setting up a fight back home.

I run a sealed CO2 room. Even 800ppm will increase growth. At night my ppm spikes to over 2000. Even 5000ppm is not bad..thinking carbon monoxide? It's not uncommon for basements to have over 1000ppm.

You right about the lights in terms of running it efficiently though.

And about a sealed room and all the equipment to do so. It's not cheap to properly setup CO2 and you definitely can't do in your average tent.

The yeast sugar etc is in sealed containers pests can't get to it. Used it for years previously.

Higher temps are not necessarily needed with co2. It will however allow you to run higher temps and more arid conditions.

 

[jaguarlax]

Higher temps are not necessarily needed with co2. It will however allow you to run higher temps and more arid conditions.

I dont know if higher temps are necessarily better either, but I dont notice a slow down like I used to before when my veg temps get a bit too high...

 

[Aqua Man]

I dont know if higher temps are necessarily better either, but I dont notice a slow down like I used to before when my veg temps get a bit too high...

I agree can run considerably higher with co2 and likewise I haven't seen any added growth over leaf temps from 75-82f... That's leaf temps ambient is higher.

 

[One drop]

CO2 is a waste of time if you aren't (a) fully isolated [sealed room with internal a/c, dehumidifier, heat, etc], (b) running uber high temps [80F at min] and (c) running uber high lumens + feed. Otherwise, it's a wasted effort. Gotta hit 1200+ PPM at lights out from my understanding, and that's damn near lethal for humans to even breathe.

The idea of running yeast + sugar in water is just begging for pest issue imo. Call me out on BS.

Been doing this shit for years and CO2 is like that attractive piece you see walking down the street when you go to get lunch with your girl -- sexy to look at, but if you ain't committed to pursuing it, you're setting up a fight back home.

No pest issues or PM I’ve been using it for 5 odd years but I’ll keep a sharp eye out .

 

[Pisano]

@Aqua Man With running LEDs my leaf surface temp is always 3-5 degrees below ambient temp. Now running 1000w single ended HPS for the first time and Ive noticed the LST is typically at ambient temp or even a degree or so higher. Currently in flower, my ambient room temp is 77-80 throughout the day. LST is 75-82 pending time of day / different areas of the plant. Sealed room with 1400-1600 PPM of CO2. Should I increase temp or keep it where it's at?

 

[Anthem]

@Aqua Man With running LEDs my leaf surface temp is always 3-5 degrees below ambient temp. Now running 1000w single ended HPS for the first time and Ive noticed the LST is typically at ambient temp or even a degree or so higher. Currently in flower, my ambient room temp is 77-80 throughout the day. LST is 75-82 pending time of day / different areas of the plant. Sealed room with 1400-1600 PPM of CO2. Should I increase temp or keep it where it's at?

I run LED's as well, but my leaf temp is always right at ambient. Running CO2 and temps around 82

 

[Aqua Man]

@Aqua Man With running LEDs my leaf surface temp is always 3-5 degrees below ambient temp. Now running 1000w single ended HPS for the first time and Ive noticed the LST is typically at ambient temp or even a degree or so higher. Currently in flower, my ambient room temp is 77-80 throughout the day. LST is 75-82 pending time of day / different areas of the plant. Sealed room with 1400-1600 PPM of CO2. Should I increase temp or keep it where it's at?

Always go by leaf temps... I would stay between 77-80 I find to be my sweet spot. Disregard ambient temps all together about the only thing they are good for is including them in a VPD calculation. Honestly I don't think you will see much difference in growth if any from 1200ppm to 1600ppm CO2 so you can probably save yourself some money there but you not doing any harm either.

Sounds like you have things setup pretty well there.

 

[Aqua Man]

I would say with HPS you should have 2-4f cooler than ambient and LED should be about 5-8f cooler than ambient if you have good air circulation. I know I said disregard it but it does also give some clue in relation to leaf temps on airflow.

Evaporative cooling happens naturally and with forced evaporation we can also control leafs temps. If we have good air circulation directly around the leaf we ensure the leaf is transpiring at optimal levels. I would say if leaf temps are equal to ambient temps you may want to look at your air circulation and make some adjustments.

 

[Anthem]

I would say with HPS you should have 2-4f cooler than ambient and LED should be about 5-8f cooler than ambient if you have good air circulation. I know I said disregard it but it does also give some clue in relation to leaf temps on airflow.

Evaporative cooling happens naturally and with forced evaporation we can also control leafs temps. If we have good air circulation directly around the leaf we ensure the leaf is transpiring at optimal levels. I would say if leaf temps are equal to ambient temps you may want to look at your air circulation and make some adjustments.

Ok I totally understand what you are staying on this one Aqua Man. The only thing is I have more circulation that I need with fans blowing air across the tops. Now I am curious about the light because I want to say the first time I heard about raising the temperature was in a Black Dog LED learning video on You Tube and they pointed out the leaf temperature does not go up like HPS because of the type of light. I just checked the numbers again a few nights ago and they are always just a half or so degree below ambient.

 

[Aqua Man]

Ok I totally understand what you are staying on this one Aqua Man. The only thing is I have more circulation that I need with fans blowing air across the tops. Now I am curious about the light because I want to say the first time I heard about raising the temperature was in a Black Dog LED learning video on You Tube and they pointed out the leaf temperature does not go up like HPS because of the type of light. I just checked the numbers again a few nights ago and they are always just a half or so degree below ambient.

So here may be your circulation issue. I have been long saying this as I see almost everyone concentrating on airflow over the top of the canopy. Leaves transpire from the underside and if you direct air over the tops of the leaves they are like a hydrofoil and not very efficient in aiding in transpiration. The most important is to concentrate airflow through the canopy and the underside of the leaves as this is where the magic happens. The photo receptors for light absorption is near the topside surface but the respiration happens on the underside.

In terms of difference between leg and HPS. They emit different amounts of infrared. It's this infrared that is the difference. Infrared warms the leaf and most LED have little to none although some are starting to incorporate a bit more.

It has been shown that both infrared and UV are beneficial spectrums and with LED we lack those so often times we supplement them. If you do supplement IR then you may find less of a temp difference than an LED without and more along the lines of HPS.

It could be if you are supplementing IR that your leaf temps are the same as ambient but at that point it may be a bit to much IR or possibly to close

 

[Pisano]

@Aqua Man Thanks for the knowledge! I'll save the money and drop the ppm down to 1200.

@frequentfleyer didn't mean to switch gears on your topic, my apologies.