S
Sorn
- 1
- 0
Hello!
I've recently done some construction and added CO2 to my environment aswell as got everything sealed up. My main question is in regards to optimum CO2 levels, but I have some other things on my mind aswell!
Currently My room is about 1000 cubic feet give or take (vaulted ceilings makes my space a guestimate.). Im using a 8" can filter with 8" fan attached to a muffler, with the exaust being pushed through my 2 x 1000 hoods for cooling, with a little 6" duct coming off the end of the 2nd light so I can choose where to direct airflow. The air being taken through the can filter and through the hoods is not exausted. The room is sealed, however there appears to be a negative draw of air and im not sure where its coming from. I notice this because the doorway is thick panda plastic with velcro, so I can see a suction being drawn inward.
Im using --> thisthis <-- portable AC for my cooling, with the intake coming from the next room, and the exhaust going out of the house. Im wondering if this is the cause of the negative intake? The only other device thats moving air is the 8" fan on the can fan, but thats being cycled right back in the room. Do you think its possible that the fan is just drawing air at such a rate that regardless of current air volume that it still tries to pull air from around the doorway?
Im worried that with the negative draw the air in the room is being exhausted and that the CO2 is escaping. I currently cannot afford a sniffer or controller to check levels, im using a REG-1 CO2 with a grounded timer that has the 15 minute intervals.
My question is this:
Is it better in a unknown situation to run a constant .5 CO2 flow meter setting for my 12 hour cycle, or to fill the room up @ 5 flow meter setting(with a 15 minute inverval) every 3 hours? Im using --> this calculator to determine optimum levels.
If the .5 setting is better, should I start filling up the room early before the lights click on? I believe the calculator is also stating that it will take 180 minutes to fill up the room with 1500ppm levels of CO2 @ .5, so this leads me to believe I would want my plants to have the full 1500 ppm when they wake up.
Im also curious....since I have my can fan exausting into my hoods, will the can fan suck up the CO2 and exaust it through the hoods? Will the higher temperature rates the CO2 will experience when going through this 10 feet or so of ducting cause the CO2 to expire or become useless?
Some other questions:
My room temps are running between 79-85 during my 12hr lights on, and 74-79 lights off. Is this too hot? I've been told by several people that I trust and that have read up on cannabis and temperatures, and they have stated that while optimum CO2 levels are around 85, that the optimum levels for the buds are actually much lower, around low 70's.
In regards to humidity, my plan is to operate my portable AC in dehumidifier mode for several hours a day during lights off. Will this be sufficient to eliminate overall humidity levels? The documentation on the unit states that it dehumidifies WHILE in AC mode, but then went on to state that if humidity levels are high that the drainpan will fill up and you need to evacuate it manually through the hose. It proceeds to state that in order to do this you need to read the cleaning and storage section....which doesn't mention anything about draining the pan/hose lol The pdf is located --> here ...anyone with experience with this your input would be greatly appreciated. It says the unit automatically turns off when the pan fills so im scared to death its going to shut down on me and the rooms going to get hot and kill everything.
I have had issues with PM (mold) for several years now, but only mild. I used a spray I bought from a hydroponics store that had some sulfur variant in it and it was effective for a few weeks. Those stores charge 3-5 times more for products than what normal retail is, so im looking for a alternative I can buy at a home depot, lowe's or any other local store. I bought 'green cure' powder to mix in a spray bottle but it does not appear to work at all! I've used it in mild to very strong concentrates and I spray away but the mold is still there 2-3 days later. I just want a cheap alternative to a sulfur burner....to which I cannot afford right now =( Also need to know if it is safe to spray these mold treatments during flowering stage. Also, how safe/unsafe is it to use pyrethrin based sprays in flowering...or up until what week into flowering?
Stress-
Im trying to determine the different types of stress that my plants can have in normal environments. So far the main 3 I have difficulty with is Draught, too much heat and nutrient burn.
The draught causes plants to go 'limp' and 'flat'. However, does it also cause (especially new upper leaves) the leaves to hang down in a curvy manner? It almost reminds me of a spider with its legs hanging down limp. I've had this occur to me on several occasions and I cannot determine if its too much energy (sometimes it happens when switching from a lower wattage to a higher wattage light) or not enough water.
When the leaves start to have brown spotting is this always nutrient burn?
Im currently growing a 8 week strain. The friend who gave me the strain says that the hairs are mature by day 45 (and I've seen its so) but that he typically lets them mature for the full cycle. I want to know if there is any extra bud growth that occurs from day 45-60, and if doing environmental 'tricks' like lowering your temperatures and moving your lights up 4-6 inches will help cause the buds to mature faster. I would really like to use the 2 weeks to veg under my 1000's so that I can be on a constant 8 week flip cycle.
Thanks for reading and I really appreciate your input and experience.
I've recently done some construction and added CO2 to my environment aswell as got everything sealed up. My main question is in regards to optimum CO2 levels, but I have some other things on my mind aswell!
Currently My room is about 1000 cubic feet give or take (vaulted ceilings makes my space a guestimate.). Im using a 8" can filter with 8" fan attached to a muffler, with the exaust being pushed through my 2 x 1000 hoods for cooling, with a little 6" duct coming off the end of the 2nd light so I can choose where to direct airflow. The air being taken through the can filter and through the hoods is not exausted. The room is sealed, however there appears to be a negative draw of air and im not sure where its coming from. I notice this because the doorway is thick panda plastic with velcro, so I can see a suction being drawn inward.
Im using --> thisthis <-- portable AC for my cooling, with the intake coming from the next room, and the exhaust going out of the house. Im wondering if this is the cause of the negative intake? The only other device thats moving air is the 8" fan on the can fan, but thats being cycled right back in the room. Do you think its possible that the fan is just drawing air at such a rate that regardless of current air volume that it still tries to pull air from around the doorway?
Im worried that with the negative draw the air in the room is being exhausted and that the CO2 is escaping. I currently cannot afford a sniffer or controller to check levels, im using a REG-1 CO2 with a grounded timer that has the 15 minute intervals.
My question is this:
Is it better in a unknown situation to run a constant .5 CO2 flow meter setting for my 12 hour cycle, or to fill the room up @ 5 flow meter setting(with a 15 minute inverval) every 3 hours? Im using --> this calculator to determine optimum levels.
If the .5 setting is better, should I start filling up the room early before the lights click on? I believe the calculator is also stating that it will take 180 minutes to fill up the room with 1500ppm levels of CO2 @ .5, so this leads me to believe I would want my plants to have the full 1500 ppm when they wake up.
Im also curious....since I have my can fan exausting into my hoods, will the can fan suck up the CO2 and exaust it through the hoods? Will the higher temperature rates the CO2 will experience when going through this 10 feet or so of ducting cause the CO2 to expire or become useless?
Some other questions:
My room temps are running between 79-85 during my 12hr lights on, and 74-79 lights off. Is this too hot? I've been told by several people that I trust and that have read up on cannabis and temperatures, and they have stated that while optimum CO2 levels are around 85, that the optimum levels for the buds are actually much lower, around low 70's.
In regards to humidity, my plan is to operate my portable AC in dehumidifier mode for several hours a day during lights off. Will this be sufficient to eliminate overall humidity levels? The documentation on the unit states that it dehumidifies WHILE in AC mode, but then went on to state that if humidity levels are high that the drainpan will fill up and you need to evacuate it manually through the hose. It proceeds to state that in order to do this you need to read the cleaning and storage section....which doesn't mention anything about draining the pan/hose lol The pdf is located --> here ...anyone with experience with this your input would be greatly appreciated. It says the unit automatically turns off when the pan fills so im scared to death its going to shut down on me and the rooms going to get hot and kill everything.
I have had issues with PM (mold) for several years now, but only mild. I used a spray I bought from a hydroponics store that had some sulfur variant in it and it was effective for a few weeks. Those stores charge 3-5 times more for products than what normal retail is, so im looking for a alternative I can buy at a home depot, lowe's or any other local store. I bought 'green cure' powder to mix in a spray bottle but it does not appear to work at all! I've used it in mild to very strong concentrates and I spray away but the mold is still there 2-3 days later. I just want a cheap alternative to a sulfur burner....to which I cannot afford right now =( Also need to know if it is safe to spray these mold treatments during flowering stage. Also, how safe/unsafe is it to use pyrethrin based sprays in flowering...or up until what week into flowering?
Stress-
Im trying to determine the different types of stress that my plants can have in normal environments. So far the main 3 I have difficulty with is Draught, too much heat and nutrient burn.
The draught causes plants to go 'limp' and 'flat'. However, does it also cause (especially new upper leaves) the leaves to hang down in a curvy manner? It almost reminds me of a spider with its legs hanging down limp. I've had this occur to me on several occasions and I cannot determine if its too much energy (sometimes it happens when switching from a lower wattage to a higher wattage light) or not enough water.
When the leaves start to have brown spotting is this always nutrient burn?
Im currently growing a 8 week strain. The friend who gave me the strain says that the hairs are mature by day 45 (and I've seen its so) but that he typically lets them mature for the full cycle. I want to know if there is any extra bud growth that occurs from day 45-60, and if doing environmental 'tricks' like lowering your temperatures and moving your lights up 4-6 inches will help cause the buds to mature faster. I would really like to use the 2 weeks to veg under my 1000's so that I can be on a constant 8 week flip cycle.
Thanks for reading and I really appreciate your input and experience.
