Watch them. The lovely thing about coco is things happen fast, both good and bad. If they're asking for more at 800ppm then you can and should feed more heavily. If it's too much you'll need to adjust accordingly. I honestly don't like using the ppm scale, how about EC? It's so much more accurate and no conversions to worry about. 800ppm at what conversion? I know it makes a difference, but don't ask me to do the math.
I also agree with dropping as much of the extra stuff as you can, HOWEVER, I've been using
Big Bud very differently. I feed it every 10 days as the main feed beginning when they've finished stretching, so about 2-3 weeks after flip. My last dose will be no less than 3 weeks before planned harvest. Helps make the nugs harder and I see them fatten up in the days after application.
Assuming the AO G & B formulas cover everything appropriately then you should be able to do this. Did you read the Integral Hydro link? It's important to also understand and know that coco already has a very high amount of potassium/K available, and so feeds may need to be adjusted accordingly, as well as knowing and understanding that coco locks onto calcium and magnesium in a way that other media don't, and so that absolutely must be supplemented if your plants are showing deficiencies or you're using RO or RO/DI water that requires those minerals be replaced.
Worm casting teas are great, and like I think I said previously, added to the mix are also good. Dolomitic lime is something I would
not use here. Why not? Because, its action is much slower, although I've already proven, to myself at least, that in clean water prilled dolomitic lime can and will dissolve readily
and will make available its calcium and magnesium. The problem with that in coco is that it will also drive pH up far out of the acceptable range, and so you'll see deficiencies in your plants. A liquid formula is really what's called for here, assuming the AO products don't have sufficient amounts (and you're going to be needing in the range of 3%-6% Ca, I find that all plants perform better when I use the BioLink 6% Ca + MgSO4 as the source for magnesium, but that's separating out each mineral, not so easy when beginning) already.
Molasses will add a little bit of
Ca/Mg, but not enough to make up for a good
Ca/Mg supplement. I would go with whichever organic
Ca/Mg supplement you feel will work well with your regimen.