Tbone
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Damn tbone... friggin excellent set up.
Yeah I think we are chasing the same problems. Seems like I always see mg deficiency by the end of the cycle, maybe not a bad case but it is there. On this run I think I threw a PK booster ( liquid kook bloom and maybe a touch of dry) too early. Read about it somewhere and thought I would try it early, like ten days from flip. It did kick them into budding high gear with lots of early pistil formation, but may have led to my problems later on.
That Lucas formula that I was using for eons with success was not really doing it for me in the UC , I think the cali magic and micro combo was giving me too much N. Palmeezy, I kept getting really dark green leaves and some light clawing.
One thing I will change up is to start tapering nutes back starting at what... week six or so. Something I haven't really paid enough attention to in the past.
Also, I am certain my humidity and VPD is not where it should be. My cold , arid environment keeps me at low levels of both. Rarely above 60 ( at night) and more like 35-45 during lights on. No mold issues tho... ever! Powdery mildew... never!
@Tbone - I'm impressed with your setup. It seems you had a few bucks and a mind to be organized.
I do that with booster in veg too,lol . I hand dose one treatment of my liquid booster at week 4 veg( 0-4-4) Which really isn't adding much extra p and K.
My line of nutrients chart says to start adding the liquid booster on week 3 of flower but because I use these dosers I start injecting booster about a week early . I'm guessing it takes about three days for the profile to reach the correct booster amount in the system"if that makes sense ".
I'm showing little signs of Mag deficiency now , hardly any, but since I'm going to do a water change in a few days I thought I would up the Cal Mag and see what it does.
in other mediums there's a lag/disconnect between your feeding and the plants uptake. varies by each one of course. in a healthy DWC your nutrient profile is, for the most part, entirely available to the plants as-is. running simultaneously low overall PPMs + boosters, you run the risk of skewing your profile. with a dialed environment & lots of water uptake, they're gonna show problems especially with excesses. (i feel) they do require extra P/K at the different stages in flower but i really think it's a fine line.
here's what i did. downloaded cannastats, plugged in the other stuff i was using (it comes pre-loaded with GH 3part) and started running different numbers. i don't know what the ideal profile is but 4-3-3-9 cm-m-g-b works great for most strains. start to finish. so i use that as my baseline. i went thru all of my various crusty logs of my mixes that i've kept over the years and... wow. huge numbers especially P & K. for reference, FooDoo's 2.5/2.5/7.5 mix comes out to
60-43-99-41-40-56 N-P-K-Mg-S-Ca, which in a dialed environment is gonna kill it, start to finish, with most (but not all) strains. no boosters, sugars, organics, nothing else. every shorter, leafier, indica-leaning strain i've got thrives with it. my issue is that i like to run GG4, an absolutely exceptional grower in terms of stretch, well-spaced budsites, its ability to fill out the canopy on its own, etc.. and either wants lower humidity, more stripping/fan & inferior budsite removal, or more.... P??? about ready to just run other strains because they're all turning out awesome, just less yield and more canopy work. with GG4, little work is required to get a somewhat consistent & chunky overall appearance to the pack.
last run, i had a much shorter, lower yielding mostly GG crop that i used no boosters on and was lacking in the velvet-y texture & swollen calyxes only on the very tops/most well lit portions. most of the very top buds were not as swollen as the stuff that was getting less light. my thinking was deficiency over toxicity and thought more frequent nute changeouts would help keep things in check. but this still didn't help on my latest round. last crop was tiny but still got a 70% yield. unfortunately i'm in the process of trimming another underwhelming GG4 monocrop that will have good weight and good potency by local standards, but is still lacking in density & the swollen calyx factor that i had when i had vented, mostly uncontrolled climate rooms and ran 2.0+ EC. even though i kept the canopy leaf/bud temps under 80, the whole top is covered with bleached foxtails that are actually dense, sticky and dank and have the texture that i wish all of the other top bud had. great uncured smoked! the bleaching is because of short ceilings and being 1' or less from the glass. but the real oddity is how these foxtails turn out with the proper texture, smell, swollen trichome head coverage, etc...vs. all of the buds right below. just white as can be.
my point of sharing this is..a) don't necessarily just follow tips from others, to some extent you have to, but assuming you have a baseline that is working OK, don't go too far off of that. b) maybe someone has some thoughts on my issues? i ran about 1-2 p:k except for a stretch near the end where it was evened up. the more intense the lighting, the worse affected the buds seem to be. new hoods added yield but more imperfect tops. mid-light stuff is turning out the best with these overgrown crops, but lacks the density & weight that the top stuff should have. reading points to lack of P.
tbone.. i admire & envy the system but dont envy your role as being the one who has to tune that in! what are your symptoms for too much calcium?
I ran one grow of GG#4 in one of these rooms and I didnt trellis or net it. It all ended up falling over like a wind storm hit it.
According to the premix calculator from cannastats 1 gram of epsom to one gallon of water - the volme of water that gram of salt displaces gives you 25.5ppm mg and 33.7ppm sulfur.
Tbone , what was the dose g/gallon of Epsom u added to system and how much did u foliar spray with? Does anyone have a recommendation of how often it should be used?
t-bone, on mine what i do is 1st go under the 'guaranteed analysis' tab and fill in all the stuff. then go under 'solution mix' tab and it will display it all for you so you don't have to manually add it up.
the other variable is the weight of the solution. weigh 100ml and take 1/100th of that weight to determine grams per ml. that might affect your #s some.
is that profile at their recommended full strength?
main reason i'm still using GH is availability. i order 2.5s and probably 6s now, but i can always get anything i need at my small local shops if i don't order in time.
btw, if you don't have ultrasonic foggers and have RO-on-demand, you can build very effective 10-head unit for under 200. for reference, 10 heads should be enough to keep up 2+ tons of continuous AC with the plants barely transpiring.
http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/premixppm3b.zip
i forgot there was a java version. that's a spreadsheet that lets you do up to 7 at once.
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