Could my blurple be better than a full spectrum?

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Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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What does happen to seedlings started indoor and moved outside?
Stress from. UV spectrum. They will act like you just hit em with a blow torch for a week or so lol. A little exaggerated but if you put a seedling started indoor out on a bright sunny day in direct light they are not usually very happy about it.... at all.
 
gorillaglueaaron

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Now that I have some people here who know about lights, would this spectrum be sufficient for flower?
pro-series-spectrum-IR.png
 
beluga

beluga

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Looks like that 630 range is around what, 50% intensity? Maybe less.
It'll definitely suffice, but it won't be optimal.
Also, your stretch will probably be bonkers.

For reference, the gold standard, Samsung lm301's at 3000K...

Screen-Shot-2020-11-30-at-4-05-51-PM.png
 
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gorillaglueaaron

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The only 2 lights that I know of that have those though are the viparspectra xs series which doesn't ship here and the sf1000 which isn't bright enough for my liking. I've been considering the sf2000 and keeping it dimmed but I don't know if that would be smart.
 
beluga

beluga

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The Lm301's aren't the only contenders by any means... it's just one of the top dogs.
I would just look for something that hits a little higher on that red spectrum for better bud development and less lanky plants.
Again, whatever that chart is for Will work, but, if you're looking to buy it, I'd probably look around some more.
 
Anthem

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Look at HLG they offer some small light set ups and have excellent spectrums. Looking at a chart that was not independently certified is not what I would consider acceptable data. The stuff coming out of China is often misrepresented. You will hear a lot of people talking abut how bright their Chinese LED's are and to the human eye they really are bright but if you ever get the chance to see the spectrum of say Gavita 1700E or Fluence Syder 2I it will not look as bright as the China stuff. The spectrum is different but the best part is that the spectrum you have posted for the Versa is darn near the same as the Gavita or Fluence gear.
Also you will see posts with great stuff under some of the china lights, but dig deep and you will find long flower periods. 12 weeks is not uncommon and that is from first day of 12/12 lighting. Hence another one of the things posted in forums, when does flower start. It starts the first day of 12/12 not when you first see signs of flower. Additionally, there is not such thing as preflower. People get upset because the breeder calls the strain 63 days to harvest. This is often true under 1000 Watt DE lights or quality LED's.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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Looks like that 630 range is around what, 50% intensity? Maybe less.
It'll definitely suffice, but it won't be optimal.
Also, your stretch will probably be bonkers.

For reference, the gold standard, Samsung lm301's at 3000K...

Screen-Shot-2020-11-30-at-4-05-51-PM.png
Beluga,
That is the spectrum just for the LM301 chip, most growlight manufacturers are adding additional colored LED's to provide a spectrum near that of the sun. The LED's with Far Reds and UV's onboard are considered to provide a better spectrum closer to the that of the sun.
 
gorillaglueaaron

gorillaglueaaron

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Beluga,
That is the spectrum just for the LM301 chip, most growlight manufacturers are adding additional colored LED's to provide a spectrum near that of the sun. The LED's with Far Reds and UV's onboard are considered to provide a better spectrum closer to the that of the sun.
No that's the viparspectra p series spectrum which as far as I'm aware of doesn't use samsung diodes.
This is the xs series which does:
xs-series-spectrum.png
 
beluga

beluga

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Beluga,
That is the spectrum just for the LM301 chip, most growlight manufacturers are adding additional colored LED's to provide a spectrum near that of the sun. The LED's with Far Reds and UV's onboard are considered to provide a better spectrum closer to the that of the sun.
I understand that. My intention was to show that just a single diode can and does have a better spectrum than whatever chart was shown before.
Of course adding far/deep red is also advantageous.

My intention isn't to list the most, greatest. It's to work with what people have available to them and what they have in question.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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I understand that. My intention was to show that just a single diode can and does have a better spectrum than whatever chart was shown before.
Of course adding far/deep red is also advantageous.

My intention isn't to list the most, greatest. It's to work with what people have available to them and what they have in question.
I took you comment literally, when you stated the gold standard. So to be clear that is just the spectrum of the LM301 and the overall spectrum of the grow light should include both blue and red.
 
beluga

beluga

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I took you comment literally, when you stated the gold standard. So to be clear that is just the spectrum of the LM301 and the overall spectrum of the grow light should include both blue and red.
Correct.
But using just one type of diode that covers both of those spectrums is also quite adequate.
The addition of deep/far red (650-750nm) (and UV) is also quite beneficial, but not as necessary as having ample reds and blues in your full spectrum lights.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Basically the difference of diodes will be quality and efficacy... spectrum is not really affected. 4k more blue keeps internode spacing shorter. 3k will increase i ternode spacing.

Basically a blue leaning spectrum will produce a shorter bustier plant producing more total leaf surface area.. But root and shoot is more affected by red spectrum. Basically we want ratios within a certain range.

Best spectrum is subject to needs. But certainly in veg a more blue leaning spectrum is beneficial. During flower generally a more red leaning but from 3-4k you will be fine. 3500 is kinda considered middle ground. Using a mire blue spectrum with IR added seems to be where most led are headed.
 
beluga

beluga

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I have yet to add deep/far red here, to my Bridgelux EB Series 2 strip fixture (one type of diode), and I think they're performing quite well as is.
I'll have comparisons on my next run in which I plan to add about 60W of 700-750nm.

dsc_1906-jpg.1061892
 
mancorn

mancorn

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Personally I hate having to work around a blurple. You have to wear sunglasses, can’t see shit, and have no idea what’s actually happening with the plant. It just makes for a horrid overall experience, where I can’t wait to get out of the room. All things being equal, I would choose a full spectrum.

(The blurple can give you an earlier indication of nutrient problems, as some deficiency show up more readily. But it’s almost like using a UV light to check where the dog peed - flip it on for a minute, take a look and then turn the dang thing off.)
 
beluga

beluga

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There's just as much if not more blue in the sf and ts lights.
So, back to the point I was getting at, is that a balanced spectrum with relatively equal blue and red spikes is where the current high performance LEDs are at (and, yes, far red supplementation).
Like aqua said, blue will make them short but so too will red, come flowering... when we want to minimize stretch and also get that nicely packed bud structure.
The big issue with LEDs (except COBs) is intensity and penetration, so, generally, the shorter the plant, the better.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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I have yet to add deep/far red here, to my Bridgelux EB Series 2 strip fixture (one type of diode), and I think they're performing quite well as is.
I'll have comparisons on my next run in which I plan to add about 60W of 700-750nm.

dsc_1906-jpg.1061892
What day of 12/12 light is that plant in and can you put something next to the bud to get a size understanding?
 
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