Can anyone else comment on this?? I am curious as well...I love this article. I dug it out just to see it again. I had done this for about 5 years with great success. However, I recently read in High times magazine that it was best to completely trim and manicure the plant before hanging it to dry. Claiming buds are less harsh them ones trimmed after. I didn't really notice but stuck to it because it was nice to be done when they were dry. It does seem a little faster for me too. Of course the trim is less sticky when dry....so...I don't care really about time as much as quality. Seems like some folks disagree with this. I will try a side by side this time and see if i can tell for real. Either way I'm glad you put this up because it means a lot that you agree with it.
This is right indeed! This is what i do when i have both small buds and big buds drying in the same place. I remove fan leaves on big bud. plants but leave them and small bud plants.I trim my buds before because it's half the work. I tried DJ's method leaving the leaves on with some fat buds and got mold. I went back to screens. I think the size of the buds makes a difference. With big buds , you should have a fan moving air around. WIth tiny buds like OG or Bubba Kush the fan will dry them out really fast. Those you have to watch out to make sure they cure slowly. So I think bud density and size is a judgement call.
I tried leaving the leaves on and there was no difference in taste except it took forever to trim.
I will probably start a thread fro the experience, im harvesting pretty soon... :party0044:This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding mosture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread: