Custom light build DIY osram

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Homesteader

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I am lacking a few lights for my room and decided I would share how I did it. Normally I make the entire enclosure out of metal but I am going to use some red oak this time and hope that it is a little easier to work with and look a bit nicer. I kind have the basic design and plan in my head but just going to go with it and see what I end up with. I am going to using three HLG-185-C700B. The heat sinks are 18" long and 4" wide. I bought a bunch from Heatsink USA but you could get them to cut just about any size you want.
The lights are boards I had made a few years ago. They have 9 white osram 3000k and 3 660nm red osram diodes in the middle. I have been really happy with how these osrams have held up the past few years considering I run these fairly hot year round. Well here it is.
I cut and shaped the oak and sanded the edges down. Going to cut a few small angle aluminum to secure the heat sinks in place for the next step and give the aluminum a quick sanding with fine grit and clean it before mounting any of the boards.
 
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PipeCarver

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Homesteader said:
I am lacking a few lights for my room and decided I would share how I did it. Normally I make the entire enclosure out of metal but I am going to use some red oak this time and hope that it is a little easier to work with and look a bit nicer. I kind have the basic design and plan in my head but just going to go with it and see what I end up with. I am going to using three HLG-185-C700B. The heat sinks are 18" long and 4" wide. I bought a bunch from Heatsink USA but you could get them to cut just about any size you want.
The lights are boards I had made a few years ago. They have 9 white osram 3000k and 3 660nm red osram diodes in the middle. I have been really happy with how these osrams have held up the past few years considering I run these fairly hot year round. Well here it is.
I cut and shaped the oak and sanded the edges down. Going to cut a few small angle aluminum to secure the heat sinks in place for the next step and give the aluminum a quick sanding with fine grit and clean it before mounting any of the boards.
Click to expand...
I 've never build one so I don't know anything about building one so bare with me. Why such large heat sinks? the fines look about the size I'd expect to use for lights, your base looks 1/4" thick at least......do those lights produce so much heat you need to wick a lot of heat away?........I was under the impression that smaller thinner heat sinks and fins would be ample but looking at yours I say WTF?..🙂🙂
 
Homesteader

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Hey @PipeCarver. LEDs have three ranges and I am assuming most of the boards sold now a days are mid range boards that are using samsung or something along those lines. anything running 1w-3w per diode is considered high powered though. I could probably get away with a bit smaller sink on these when running 700ma cause it doesn't push the diode so hot but I typically like to run my lights at around 1400ma with increases the heat quite a bit. The osrams can take a lot of heat though. IMO- Many of the people who are using HPS and switch over to LEDs would be much happier if they went with higher powered lights or high powered COBs but anyway, These do get pretty hot from time to time, especially mid summer and I need quite a bit of air movement in my room as well. Winter I get to shut my AC off though.
 
Homesteader

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Building a bracket to clamp the heat sinks together. I still need to file down the cut the angles but you I have two sizes of angle. One is 1/2 by 1/2 and the other is 1/2 by 3/4. Just need to line up the slots so that when I drill I don't go into a fin and rather end up between them. (The photo makes it look off but they are lined up).
 
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PipeCarver

PipeCarver

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Homesteader said:
Hey @PipeCarver. LEDs have three ranges and I am assuming most of the boards sold now a days are mid range boards that are using samsung or something along those lines. anything running 1w-3w per diode is considered high powered though. I could probably get away with a bit smaller sink on these when running 700ma cause it doesn't push the diode so hot but I typically like to run my lights at around 1400ma with increases the heat quite a bit. The osrams can take a lot of heat though. IMO- Many of the people who are using HPS and switch over to LEDs would be much happier if they went with higher powered lights or high powered COBs but anyway, These do get pretty hot from time to time, especially mid summer and I need quite a bit of air movement in my room as well. Winter I get to shut my AC off though.
Click to expand...
They turn them down for longevity don't they? If you are building your own and have the know how you can replace burned out parts but as a consumer I want to plug and play and last forever so they dial them down to make them last as heat kills them.....or so I've heard....I saw frankster and his hillbilly aluminum cooking pan heat sink with glue on diode bars, that looks pretty doable ( with minor upgrades)...I like your wood spacers / supports...and it will make your light look sharp....
 
Homesteader

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I changed the bracket a bit to make it larger. I actually screwed up the smaller bracket but then noticed it was too small to protect the diodes very much anyways. I need to be able to set the light down from time to time flat on concrete so the extra lip on the sides is going to be needed so I don't ruin any of the diodes or tear off the domes that cover them. I also didn't have the correct screws but managed with some sheetrock screws. Tomorrow I will attach the boards and figure out what I am going to do for hooks and the driver layout.
 
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Homesteader

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Attaching some of the boards. I am going to run five boards per heatsink. This should be about 135 watts per heat sink bar so close to 400 watt all together. I attach the MCPCB (metal core printed circuit board) using a double sided heat thermal adhesive tape. You can get them in many sizes but I have 1" tape so I need to cut strips and attach for to the back. I then trim with a razor and peel and stick to alcohol cleaned aluminum.
 
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PipeCarver

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Homesteader said:
Attaching some of the boards. I am going to run five boards per heatsink. This should be about 135 watts per heat sink bar so close to 400 watt all together. I attach the MCPCB (metal core printed circuit board) using a double sided heat thermal adhesive tape. You can get them in many sizes but I have 1" tape so I need to cut strips and attach for to the back. I then trim with a razor and peel and stick to alcohol cleaned aluminum.
Click to expand...
I have an SE3000 and it came with about an 8ft extension cord off the driver to the light so I was able to remove it from the veg room to keep the temp on it and in the room down. I like the Idea of removing it from the light. Are you going that way or are you attaching the driver to the board?
 
Homesteader

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I bought a roll off of Digikey or mouser a few years ago. Osram SSLs come in 600 diode per roll. I sent them off to a company out in California. I was going to start a business selling lights a few years ago but there was too much chinese crap to compete with.

Anyhow the lights have two types of light angles. The Domes on the diodes give off 80 degree angles on the white and 120 degree angles on the reds.
 
Homesteader

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Yeah Ill attach the drivers right to the top. Three of them and two boxes to hide the connections
 
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I would like to set up a room that way. I think that is definitely the better option if you have the cable to do it or you can get into the walls and prewire it.
 
Homesteader

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Put the rest of the boards on the heat sinks and mounted the drivers and also got around to attaching the 15amp 125v power cable and junction box.
 
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PK1

PK1

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nice setup, definitely a nice way of going. it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some sort of fan on the heatsinks. I find cpu or computer fans work great.
Where you get those leds?
 
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PK1

PK1

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oh their single peace's that you sawder onto the board?
Homesteader said:
White

GW CS8PM1.PM-LRLT-XX56-1-350-R18 OSRAM Opto Semiconductors Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. GW CS8PM1.PM-LRLT-XX56-1-350-R18 – LED Lighting series White, Warm 3500K 2.85V 350mA 80° 1212 (3030 Metric) from OSRAM Opto Semiconductors Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com

Red

Click to expand...
 
Homesteader

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Yeah they are but I didn't do the soldering on these ones. I had company called Adura LED reflow them for me, I think they are out of California. They will take care of ordering the correct diodes if you prefer.

1971 - 66mm Round- OSLON SSL (SANDRA Optics) SinkPAD II Technology

1971 - 66mm Round- OSLON SSL (SANDRA Optics) SinkPAD II Technology PCB for Oslon SSL, Oslon SQUARE
www.aduraled.com www.aduraled.com
 
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Homesteader said:
Yeah they are but I didn't do the soldering on these ones. I had company called Adura LED reflow them for me, I think they are out of California. They will take care of ordering the correct diodes if you prefer.

1971 - 66mm Round- OSLON SSL (SANDRA Optics) SinkPAD II Technology

1971 - 66mm Round- OSLON SSL (SANDRA Optics) SinkPAD II Technology PCB for Oslon SSL, Oslon SQUARE
www.aduraled.com www.aduraled.com
Click to expand...
what did that with the leds cost you? trying to figure to go this route or get Cob's
 
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