those look nice . I will post a couple pics of a small sytem I made for a elderly ladyif you can get that , that is amazing.
if you can get 2 lb per 600 watt that is amazing. at 1.25 lb that is 2.1 lb a 1000 watt . I was able to maintain 2.75 lb per 1000 watt by reducing th light needed to provide it but th yield per sq ft did not change just the light to get it .we maxed out at anut 35 gram per sq ft.
we used sea of green were we planted 21 day old cuttings directly on the table into 4" cubes flowersd flowers immediately that was 98 cutting per 600 per 4x4 flood table. we we were able 5o provide cutting for 10 flowering lights from 1 1000 veg for mothers and clones . because the cuttings were young they did not need full light. our tables were set up as a 4x16 ' table. used movers and only needed to use 2x600 for the 1st 2 weeks then 3x600w for th next 2 weeks. full 4x600 for 4 weeks then back to 2x 600 for 2 weeks leach with lure water. we got roughly 6 lb . we did not get more with more light but able to reduce light to get the same. 6 lb per 1760 watt mean average put us around 2.8 lb per 1000 watt with a 10 to 1 bloom to veg .
about 24 lb from 11000 watt total light including veg evey 10 weeks flower with no down time .
it's not the 3.3 lb per 1000 w you were able to do but we were happy with it
Nice and clean..... well planned and grown.those look nice . I will post a couple pics of a small sytem I made for a elderly lady
1000 and a 600 w hps
drip feed on promix hp in a bucket in a bucket gravity feed . she went from 20 hours a week work down to 3
. 10 plants under the 600 16 under the 1000 both on movers . she got 3.3 lb from them .
here is a couple pics of pages from ROCKWOOL in Horticulture .extremely good on nutrient formulation and running tanks . probably the best combination of grow info along with the actual system operationsNice and clean..... well planned and grown.
The new rockwool doesn't have those issues anymore. But yeah used to have to prevuffer them. Not done rockwool myself and probably won't. Just not something I think I would enjoy. Without experience in rockwool and limited in coco I kinda feel coco has a few what I see as advantages. If I was a sterile grower I may look at it though.here is a couple pics of pages from ROCKWOOL in Horticulture .extremely good on nutrient formulation and running tanks . probably the best combination of grow info along with the actual system operations
I highly recommend it as well as the other 2 . the only difference in feed with rockwool over any water system is the ph . it needs a slightly acid 5.5 one of the only REALLY ph susceptible systems as the rockwool naturally runs 7.5 +
it's not known much but rockwool is reusable . you can run for 8 years + until the slab completely degrades . the sleeves theh come innate designed to be hooked together and then steamed. I don't use them either but the operation of any system is the same. the book is really about system formulation and operation. thus one just happens to be with rockwool as a medium. this one ABC OF NFT Is also deep water culture. the only difference is nutrient depth .. exactly the same operation and nutrient formulations and ph operationsThe new rockwool doesn't have those issues anymore. But yeah used to have to prevuffer them. Not done rockwool myself and probably won't. Just not something I think I would enjoy. Without experience in rockwool and limited in coco I kinda feel coco has a few what I see as advantages. If I was a sterile grower I may look at it though.
Agree and I think ratios are a bit out on most bloom nutes. I believe ratios are a bit whacked. To little nitrogen and to much phosphorus. Although I like to lean towards the 1.5 to 1 K to N. 2 to 1 K to Ca and 2 to 1 Ca to Mg. For flower. P imo should be fed higher in veg and stretch and reduced in flower not boosted.... but thats just my opinion.so .lol
to our friend with the plant issue.
I was saying before I am not saying to run low or high ph I am saying if I saw a leaf issue ph would not be my first thought. important but not my first thought. it's more a trifecta approach.
-how much light ? they are small /?young
' what is the ph ec of input and out put ? if recirculating then the same
-are you feeding a complete solution at a reasonable ec? in whatever scale you use .
- if the issue is high nutrient .change it and flush system.
- if issue is DEFICIENCIES then same. flush with fresh complete solution
if you are going to add 1 or 2 nutrients such as calcium magnesium you might as well just add the other 10 . then if it is not call mag you don't have to wait a day or 2 and try another nutrient. nutrient is cheap compared to your plants and your timeh
I agree. when I go into flower I use veg for the first 2 weeks. it taken a while to go into flower and the plant will double in size or more and needs its nitrogen.Agree and I think ratios are a bit out on most bloom nutes. I believe ratios are a bit whacked. To little nitrogen and to much phosphorus. Although I like to lean towards the 1.5 to 1 K to N. 2 to 1 K to Ca and 2 to 1 Ca to Mg. For flower. P imo should be fed higher in veg and stretch and reduced in flower not boosted.... but thats just my opinion.
Couldn't agree more.I agree. when I go into flower I use veg for the first 2 weeks. it taken a while to go into flower and the plant will double in size or more and needs its nitrogen.
for the next 2 weeks I mix my bloom and veg together to make a 50/50,mix ( that is A+A and B +B ) I use this for the next 4 weeks .
I flip to full bloom at the 4th week and run with that for 4 weeks and then go to pure water for a 2 week leach. on a 10 week cycle.
I find 4his tunes the plants need to the supply better.
first 2 weeks bloom I feed veg
next 2 weeks I use 50/50
then straight bloom from then on
Yeah I used to do my own some time ago... maybe get back to it someday but for now just using a base fert and amending as I need. Gonna do one more salt based then do one organic to see how I like it. Hydro buddy ftw but I'm sure you have that or something similar.these are my formulas. there is grams per liter but also the weights to make 20 liter concentrate. after buying the base salts at 70$ cdn 25kg each. it costs 10$ to make 20 liter 100 to 1 concentrate. ( a and b )
I see 20 liter going from 200 to 700$ in the store.
I spend about 500$ and I make 400 to 500 litres 100 to 1 concentrate.
its lots but buy once and your done ...abd all your buddies are done circa long time .
what is hydro buddy ?Yeah I used to do my own some time ago... maybe get back to it someday but for now just using a base fert and amending as I need. Gonna do one more salt based then do one organic to see how I like it. Hydro buddy ftw but I'm sure you have that or something similar.
Ooh good program for making your own ferts... breaks down what the actual availability is of each nutrient. You add your available nutrients like cal nitrate etc to the list. Then you can select your ppm of each nutrient desired and will spit out how much of each. Also calculates concentrates and seperates then into A and B for stock solutions so you don't get precipitates etc.what is hydro buddy ?
that is handy!Here is a link... makes it so easy its not funny. Even calculates water source contributions if you want
Yeah when I found it I was like.... score!!! No more racking my brain.... just plug and play. Definitely the ultimate cheat that I know of.that is handy!
I do the math myself. it is relativity easy . it's just adding up the atomic numbers. I use a cheat sheet out if hydroponic food production sometimes
I may not agree with you on the ph swings but sure do enjoy the perspective and discussion.that is handy!
I do the math myself. it is relativity easy . it's just adding up the atomic numbers. I use a cheat sheet out if hydroponic food production sometimes
me tooI may not agree with you on the ph swings but sure do enjoy the perspective and discussion.
Sorry OP for the hijack.
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