Deficiencies under led during veg

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

I’ve been vegging under the Growers Choice ROI-200 with General Hydro nutrients. I’ve been having deficiencies again. I’ve been told to up my nutrients, but I don’t see anything different except now I have nute burn. Per gallon:
1 tsp cal mag
Micro 7.6 ml
Grow 8.5 ml
Bloom 4.7ml
Floralicious plus 2ml
Epsom salt 1 gram
Up or down
Ppm 1100
Watering once a day with 10 - 20% runoff.
My lux meter reads 18,000

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

@Aqua Man

PipeCarver · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
I’ve been vegging under the Growers Choice ROI-200 with General Hydro nutrients. I’ve been having deficiencies again. I’ve been told to up my nutrients, but I don’t see anything different except now I have nute burn. Per gallon:
1 tsp cal mag
Micro 7.6 ml
Grow 8.5 ml
Bloom 4.7ml
Floralicious plus 2ml
Epsom salt 1 gram
Up or down
Ppm 1100
Watering once a day with 10 - 20% runoff.
My lux meter reads 18,000

Hi, I use the GH trio and I feed in veg at 1 month old 5ml/5ml/5ml _+ 1 - 2 ml up. ppm 600-750 I'll only bump it up to 7.5/7.5/7.5 + 2ml up at 6 weeks. I veg for a long time. I'm in promix and I feed - water - feed - water...ect. I can keep my plants under t5 lights very close so I can get them up to 25,000 lux....I'm just learning led's and I have one under an sf1000 18" away at 20,000 lux on 100%....I had been keeping the light at 13" and 65% around the same lux but after reading their manual it says 18 - 24 in late veg so I' just adjusted it today

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
@Aqua Man

They look a little cold maybe? It appears to be an uptake issue to me.

Temp, humidity?

Media and how much are you watering each day?

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Make sure you very your pho e app to a meter for lux.

Also what is the duration of lights on period?

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

Aqua Man said:
They look a little cold maybe? It appears to be an uptake issue to me.

Temp, humidity?

Media and how much are you watering each day?

Temp around 75 degrees
Humidity 60%
coco and about 2 - 3 cups of nutrient per gallon container
Lights are in 24 hours

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
Temp around 75 degrees
Humidity 60%
coco and about 2 - 3 cups of nutrient per gallon container
Lights are in 24 hours

Cut lights back to 18/6 and you will likely see a big improvement after about 4-5 days.

Try to bring temps up a bit. Like 80F lights on and 70F lights put is a pretty good place

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Improvement in health and growth rates. I know it seems like how does less light exposure equal more growth..... but trust me on this one

In coco what's your runoff numbers?

Feed at lights on if only once but I would recommend reducing the volume and increasing the frequency.

Not sure if ya seen this thread but explains what I'm talking about without retyping it.

HOW TO WATER COCO FOR BEST RESULTS.

Ok writing this cause i see this issue often and rather have a thread to link than explain this each time. This is not my work but a collection of info from many members here and I have put into practice myself. So first off COCO is NOT soil. For best results we want to keep it saturated...

www.thcfarmer.com

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

T

Aqua Man said:
Improvement in health and growth rates. I know it seems like how does less light exposure equal more growth..... but trust me on this one

In coco what's your runoff numbers?

Feed at lights on if only once but I would recommend reducing the volume and increasing the frequency.

Not sure if ya seen this thread but explains what I'm talking about without retyping it.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/h...o-water-coco-for-best-results.122334/[/QUOTE]
Thank you!

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

My runoff is 800 ppm at 5.8ph. I rinsed the girls a couple of days ago because it was coming out at 1800.

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
My runoff is 800 ppm at 5.8ph. I rinsed the girls a couple of days ago because it was coming out at 1800.

Ok so looking at the big picture if it was my grow I would try to achieve 78-80f day and 68-70f night. Remember that's to strive for but doesn't mean your plants won't do well outside of that.

I would back the light off to 24" at 80% and 100% you should switch to 18/6. The Calvin cycle is Important under higher lighting like LED and although there will be less hours of light it will be more efficient and take advantage of the different processes performed during lights on and lights out.

Lower your input ppm to 600-800 total unless adding anything more than the trio and cal mag.

100-150ppm of calmag and the rest nutrients. Ph between 5.6-6.0 until flip.

You will need to do some defoliation on this as they are dense and that can lead to high humidity microclimates and eventually infection.

I would remove the oldest damaged fan leaves, large fans blocking new growth and large fans not getting light.

Always start with the biggest and oldest as they are less efficient than new growing tips and leaves. They key is imo to remove as much of the oldest fans it leave newer without letting light travel through the plant to the ground. You want the plant to capture as much as possible as it's the overall photosynthesis we are looking for.

You can also remove and small offshoots and fans low on the plant. Typically the bottom 1/3 bit looks like your doing some training so that may be to much. Just enough to allow a good amount of airflow through the plant.

Humidity 50-55% I'd say especially with them being dense as the humidity inside the canopy will be high. If you have a hygrometer just stick it into the densest part of the plants for like 5 min and check it. That will give you a good idea of how much you need to open up the bottom of the plants and make some fan adjustments if needed.

Last one I would do is increase the feed frequency. I say this because your ppm is rising in the media and its likely in large part due to the amount of runoff and dryback.

Hiw might are the pots and does the coco have any perlite in it?

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

Aqua Man said:
Ok so looking at the big picture if it was my grow I would try to achieve 78-80f day and 68-70f night. Remember that's to strive for but doesn't mean your plants won't do well outside of that.

I would back the light off to 24" at 80% and 100% you should switch to 18/6. The Calvin cycle is Important under higher lighting like LED and although there will be less hours of light it will be more efficient and take advantage of the different processes performed during lights on and lights out.

Lower your input ppm to 600-800 total unless adding anything more than the trio and cal mag.

100-150ppm of calmag and the rest nutrients. Ph between 5.6-6.0 until flip.

You will need to do some defoliation on this as they are dense and that can lead to high humidity microclimates and eventually infection.

I would remove the oldest damaged fan leaves, large fans blocking new growth and large fans not getting light.

Always start with the biggest and oldest as they are less efficient than new growing tips and leaves. They key is imo to remove as much of the oldest fans it leave newer without letting light travel through the plant to the ground. You want the plant to capture as much as possible as it's the overall photosynthesis we are looking for.

You can also remove and small offshoots and fans low on the plant. Typically the bottom 1/3 bit looks like your doing some training so that may be to much. Just enough to allow a good amount of airflow through the plant.

Humidity 50-55% I'd say especially with them being dense as the humidity inside the canopy will be high. If you have a hygrometer just stick it into the densest part of the plants for like 5 min and check it. That will give you a good idea of how much you need to open up the bottom of the plants and make some fan adjustments if needed.

Last one I would do is increase the feed frequency. I say this because your ppm is rising in the media and its likely in large part due to the amount of runoff and dryback.

Hiw might are the pots and does the coco have any perlite in it?

The pots are 1 gallon with 20% perlite. When I water they aren’t drying out some of them are still heavy and some of them are lighter.

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
The pots are 1 gallon with 20% perlite. When I water they aren’t drying out some of them are still heavy and some of them are lighter.

Ooof how much time per day do you have to spend on the grow?

In my 1 gal pots I was watering at peak 14x a day 250ml each time.

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Your definatly need to water atleast 3x a day at that size I would think.

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

Aqua Man said:
Your definatly need to water atleast 3x a day at that size I would think.

I’ll make time for it. Thank you! I don’t have to have runoff in each watering? Just the last one? 10 - 25%?

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
I’ll make time for it. Thank you! I don’t have to have runoff in each watering? Just the last one? 10 - 25%?

I would do each because in 1gal they are gonna dry back a fair bit between and you don't want to end up having to flush again.

It would be a good idea to grab some hygrozyme and run it through once a week to help keep the coco free of build up instead of reacting a plant issue that will impact quality and yield once your in flower.

Aperkins1972 · Oct 18, 2021

Thank you @Aqua Man!

Anthem · Oct 18, 2021

Aperkins1972 said:
I’ll make time for it. Thank you! I don’t have to have runoff in each watering? Just the last one? 10 - 25%?

You have to listen to what Aqua Man is telling you. I tried Coco for about 1 year, but I was using my basic watering regime for soil. It worked but there will be issues. If you get too much dryback you will get salt build up. If you really want to run coco consider an auto watering system. That was basically were I walked away from coco. The stuff is in my opinion is about 20 percent quicker than soil as far as growth and the plant reaching maturity. Myself I was at the hydro store putting together an auto watering system and the tech looks at me and goes why don't you just go hydro. Light bulb moment for me. Either will yield you some fine buds, the hydro just made more sense to me!

Aqua Man · Oct 18, 2021

Anthem said:
You have to listen to what Aqua Man is telling you. I tried Coco for about 1 year, but I was using my basic watering regime for soil. It worked but there will be issues. If you get too much dryback you will get salt build up. If you really want to run coco consider an auto watering system. That was basically were I walked away from coco. The stuff is in my opinion is about 20 percent quicker than soil as far as growth and the plant reaching maturity. Myself I was at the hydro store putting together an auto watering system and the tech looks at me and goes why don't you just go hydro. Light bulb moment for me. Either will yield you some fine buds, the hydro just made more sense to me!

My problem was versatility, pita running seeds, and cant move the plants to trim. But yeah hydro growth is ridiculous.... there is no doubt about that. If I had more space to work with I'd prob build a modular system that I could run SoG, trees scrog by replacing containers of various sizes and the ability to adjust the distance between.

Just thinking about it makes my wallet hurt at the cost of unions to do that

Anthem · Oct 18, 2021

Aqua Man said:
My problem was versatility, pita running seeds, and cant move the plants to trim. But yeah hydro growth is ridiculous.... there is no doubt about that. If I had more space to work with I'd prob build a modular system that I could run SoG, trees scrog by replacing containers of various sizes and the ability to adjust the distance between.

Just thinking about it makes my wallet hurt at the cost of unions to do that

Aqua Man look up this system. It might be what you are looking for at a decent price. Greentree Hydroponic systems. Super easy!!

Deficiencies under led during veg

Deficiencies under led during veg

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