Dextros Lab

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dextr0

dextr0

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What do you think is the best way to utilize a 400w CMH in a 4' x 2 1/2' x 4' space? Right now ive got it centered vert. style. Its ok but im trien get maximum yeild...anyone??

Last grow.
CAB.jpg


An old picture The bulb is now in V postion. This will be my last grow with her. Ill buy a new CMH in a few.
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Maybe three big plants LST w bamboo "Tobor" style?? I cAn get real close to the cannopy with the 400.

HOW_LOW.jpg
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Well since im not doing nothing at the moment and nothings going down on my thread, thought i might drop some knowledge and maybe get some thoughts in return.

The subject is Anthocyanins. What originally brought me to the subject was my love for BLUE weed. I dont know why but in my eyes there are very few things more beautifull then a Neon blue bud, or baby blue nugs with hot pink pistels. Purple? Oh yea, shes good too. Colors, scents, and the high. Thats what im about. So how do you guys do get the most colors from your plants?? I know the basics and have this as a reference

Purple Cannabis
The origins of purple cannabis are as much of a mystery as the origins of the plant itself. However, purpling is as natural as the changing colors on the leaves of deciduous trees in autumn, which is attributed in part to the pigment anthocyanin. Anthocyanin expression is controlled by both genetic and environmental factors. Purpling is a simple dominant Mendelian trait, with quantitative expression.

Environmental Factors
Several pigments are responsible for color in plants: chlorophyll, carotene, xanthophyll, and anthocyanins. Chlorophyll is the pigment in chloroplasts of plants that reflects green light. Plants use the energy absorbed by chlorophyll in photosynthesis to produce food for their growth and development. It is continually broken down during photosynthesis and being replenished by the plant.

Carotene and xanthophyll are pigments that reflect orange and yellow light respectively. Both are present in the chloroplasts, with chlorophyll enabling the plant to absorb a wider range of wavelengths of light and thus capture more energy. These pigments are present in such small quantities that the more dominant chlorophyll typically masks them.

During flowering, with the passing of summer, days become shorter. The phytochromes, the light-sensing mechanisms in leaves, recognize the shorter day lengths. The shorter days and lower temperatures arrest chlorophyll production. Chlorophyll breaks down faster than it is replaced, allowing the yellow and orange pigments to be unmasked.

The molecules reflecting red wavelengths, anthocyanins, are water-soluble pigments that occur in the cell sap (he made that up), creating the red, pink, and purple hues. These pigments may not be present during the summer, or vegetative cycle, but their formation is encouraged during a succession of cool nights and sunny days. During these days when photosynthesis and chlorophyll production are decreasing, an abundance of sugars accumulates in the leaf. The cool nights promote a separation layer of cells in the petiole—where the leaf attaches to the stem—that prevents sugar from flowing out of the leaf, and also arrests the flow of nutrients into the leaf. The formation of anthocyanin requires bright light, a diminishing water supply, and the accumulation of sugars trapped in the leaf.

Another factor that can cause purpling is nutrient deficiency, generally phosphorus. Although these stunted plants may bedazzle the novice, they are typically quite distinguishable from naturally occurring anthocyanin expression, due to the other visible adverse side effects of nutrient deficiency, such as leaf and bud malformation and low calyx-to-leaf ratios.

Genetics/Degrees of Purple
The discussion of Mendelian genetics, anthocyanin-expression traits and which genes at which loci influence them, mean and variance, and heritability in quantitative inheritance is beyond the scope here and will have to be left for a future article. However, there are easily observable indicators that aid in the quest for the purple kind.


I found some of the things said in there misleading and looked alot of things up. Ended up at Wikipidia alot because by far it coincided with what others were finding in things that i was looking up. As a matter of fact the Wiki article was great. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthocyanin

(This is not the whole thing this is what i copied and posted)

Anthocyanins (also anthocyans; from Greek: ἀνθός (anthos) = flower + κυανός (kyanos) = blue) are water-soluble vacuolar pigments that may appear red, purple, or blue according to pH. They belong to a parent class of molecules called flavonoids synthesized via the phenylpropanoid pathway; they are odorless and nearly flavorless, contributing to taste as a moderately astringent sensation. Anthocyanins occur in all tissues of higher plants, including leaves, stems, roots, flowers, and fruits. Anthoxanthins are their clear, white to yellow counterparts occurring in plants. Anthocyanins are derivatives of anthocyanidins which include pendant sugars.

In flowers, bright reds and purples are adaptive for attracting pollinators. In fruits, the colorful skins also attract the attention of animals, which may eat the fruits and disperse the seeds. In photosynthetic tissues (such as leaves and sometimes stems), anthocyanins have been shown to act as a "sunscreen", protecting cells from high-light damage by absorbing blue-green and UV light, thereby protecting the tissues from photoinhibition, or high-light stress. This has been shown to occur in red juvenile leaves, autumn leaves, and broad-leaved evergreen leaves that turn red during the winter. It has also been proposed that red coloration of leaves may camouflage leaves from herbivores blind to red wavelengths, or signal unpalatability, since anthocyanin synthesis often coincides with synthesis of unpalatable phenolic compounds.

In addition to their role as light-attenuators, anthocyanins also act as powerful antioxidants. However, it is not clear whether anthocyanins can significantly contribute to scavenging of free-radicals produced through metabolic processes in leaves, since they are located in the vacuole, and thus, spatially separated from metabolic reactive oxygen species. Some studies have shown that hydrogen peroxide produced in other organelles can be neutralized by vacuolar anthocyanin.

Nature, primitive agriculture, and plant breeding have produced various uncommon crops containing anthocyanins, including blue- or red-fleshed potatoes and purple or red broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots and corn. Tomatoes have been bred conventionally for high anthocyanin content by crossing wild relatives with the common tomato to transfer a gene called the anthocyanin fruit tomato ("aft") gene into a larger and more palatable fruit.

Tomatoes have also been genetically modified with transcription factors from snapdragons to produce high levels of anthocyanins in the fruits. Anthocyanins can also be found in naturally ripened olives, and are partly responsible for the red and purple colors of some olives.

Autumn leaf color

Many science textbooks incompletely state that autumn coloration (including red) is the result of breakdown of green chlorophyll, which unmasks the already-present orange, yellow, and red pigments (carotenoids, xanthophylls, and anthocyanins, respectively). While this is indeed the case for the carotenoids and xanthophylls (orange and yellow pigments), anthocyanins are not synthesized until the plant has begun breaking down the chlorophyll, presumably for photoprotection during nitrogen translocation.
Biosynthesis

Anthocyanins and carotenoids contribute distinctive pigmentation to blood oranges.Anthocyanin pigments are assembled like all other flavonoids from two different streams of chemical raw materials in the cell:
One stream involves the shikimate pathway to produce the amino acid phenylalanine. (see phenylpropanoids)
The other stream produces 3 molecules of malonyl-CoA, a C3 unit from a C2 unit (acetyl-CoA).
These streams meet and are coupled together by the enzyme chalcone synthase (CHS), which forms an intermediate chalcone via a polyketide folding mechanism that is commonly found in plants.
The chalcone is subsequently isomerized by the enzyme chalcone isomerase (CHI) to the prototype pigment naringenin.
Naringenin is subsequently oxidized by enzymes such as flavanone hydroxylase (FHT or F3H), flavonoid 3' hydroxylase and flavonoid 3' 5'-hydroxylase.
These oxidation products are further reduced by the enzyme dihydroflavonol 4-reductase (DFR) to the corresponding colorless[20] leucoanthocyanidins.
It was believed that leucoanthocyanidins are the immediate precursors of the next enzyme, a dioxygenase referred to as anthocyanidin synthase (ANS) or leucoanthocyanidin dioxygenase (LDOX). It was recently shown however that flavan-3-ols, the products of leucoanthocyanidin reductase (LAR), are the true substrates of ANS/LDOX.
The resulting, unstable anthocyanidins are further coupled to sugar molecules by enzymes like UDP-3-O-glucosyltransferase to yield the final relatively stable anthocyanins.


More than five enzymes are thus required to synthesize these pigments, each working in concert. Any even minor disruption in any of the mechanism of these enzymes by either genetic or environmental factors would halt anthocyanin production.


but if anyone else has anything to add id like to hear it. I have actually done alot of research the last couple of months on Anthocyanins and am finding that in most other plants darkness degrades anthocyanins. Even in cut plants.
 
motta-tokka

motta-tokka

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So thats all the light your working with? Since you dont have a reflector on it I would suggest doing a vertical, but those are too many plants for 1 bulb. How about just keeping it the way it is, maybe doing a diy reflector or mylar on the top for maximum reflection, and also supplement with some cfls hung in the same manner.

From the top pic I just dont see that 400 doing much justice.

On another note I like to throw money at my grow alot so keep that in mind if taking my advice ;)

Beautiful looking plants by the way. Good luck
 
dextr0

dextr0

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These are all old pix. In the first one i planted seeds so i figured half would be female. Cull the males.

Heres all my ducks in a row.
rsz_138.jpg


I swear the only thing that saved me these last grows were me reading like a muthafucker and this bulb.

reg_don.jpg
big_don.jpg



These are the same girls from above in the middle.

reg_don_bud.jpg
funk_don_bud.jpg


The top one hermied on me but i cutt off all the nanners and saved her. She was a very low yielder though.
 
dextr0

dextr0

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pup_underleaf.jpg
pup_2.jpg

Donatello one more time.
There are also 2 Bubblegum i have going...no pix yet tho.
Oh and shit im runnin cfls untill i can fix my CMH. Tha ballest humms (magnetic) on but the bulb wont??...idk. The bulb looks good too so im guessing wiring or ignitor...
 
dextr0

dextr0

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So Ive had my ballast working for awhile now, but computer got a virus. So thats fixed ill post what ive done...
I left bulb in vert position, but trained the hell out my girls because i was going to make them all mothers for a bit. That all changed and now im flowering them all because ive got root aphids and i need all this soil gone so i can clean. Im not going to throw these plants out without flowering them first tho for 2 reasons. First being i have a little time to kill, second i put to much time into these hoes and i need something back.
Ok enough rambeling, heres the pictures. From here on out (after this run, This will strictly be the veg chamber and i will have horizontal lighting. I feel that CMHs are just not strong enough to penetrate like i want when i train how i do. A reflector is on the to get soon list.

Pictures....

rsz_dsc03307.jpg

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dextr0

dextr0

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changed it this morning looks like this now. I like it 100% better.
rsz_dsc03320.jpg


what yall think??
 
M

Mr. Greenthum

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Pretty healthy girls what r u growing in? what kind of medium? have u ever tried coco tech?
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Square pots with plastic bags on inside. 10" each. Medium is Fertilome Potting mix.
The ingredience listed are canadian sphagnum peat moss, horticultural perlite, starter charge, dolomitic limestone, calcitic limestone, and wetting agent. Besides that i added about half way with EWC and about a handful of Kelp meal.<<This mix will be changing soon.
 
M

Mr. Greenthum

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Does this attract parasites? with the sphagnum peat moss and kelp or no problems at all?
 
Tobor the 8th Man

Tobor the 8th Man

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Those bulbs are supposed to be great. Why don't you think it is penetrating enough? Have you ever used a regular 400w bulb?

DIY a reflector or get one. Then get the bulb over the middle of the room and make things even. That space and bulb should grow a decent amount of weed. Especially since you have grow skills and can keep a plant nice until it is harvested.
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Whas up ya....lil music to put out tha mind frame....

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ye-jtxbkCM&feature=related[/YOUTUBE]


^^^Ohh, if it aint got that Swishahouse chop on it...it aint whats up.

Does this attract parasites? with the sphagnum peat moss and kelp or no problems at all?
I have root aphids as we speak. The reason im putting all those into flower. I do not think that the kelp was the cause i actually got a cut back from a friend and it had root aphids all over...besides that no i have had no signs of pest this run. Last time i had gnats, used Mosquito Dunks and top covering and the bastards were ghost after a month...Cant say enough about Dunks. Sphagnum peat moss is a medium just like any other soil-less mix.

Those bulbs are supposed to be great. Why don't you think it is penetrating enough? Have you ever used a regular 400w bulb?

DIY a reflector or get one. Then get the bulb over the middle of the room and make things even. That space and bulb should grow a decent amount of weed. Especially since you have grow skills and can keep a plant nice until it is harvested.
What up Tobor, Love seeing your training, excellent.
The bulb. No I have not used a regular 400 before. In fact all previous work has been done with CFLs, then the switch because i was looking for a bigger harvest. I actually love this hoe as bulb, i get so close to the cannopy its crazy. Heat has been my biggest factor and there is nothing i can do about it (right now). Maybe with the dialing in I will have a better feeling about the bulb.
A reflector is in the works, no diy on that one to much work. Next grow not this one. On a side note i looked for diy info and never found anything.
Bulb is in the center/horizontal now.

hey man, im late but just wanted to tag along+1
What up playa?? Hope i dont bore you all...you know dextr0 got the most unconventional ways...lol.
 
M

MediMary

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roflmao, my reputation precedes me:D

You ever try the griffins spin out(the uncle ben tip)?
 
dextr0

dextr0

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^^^Ha its funny that u ask that. No i really try to stay away from anything like that as i keep my medium in lower Ph levels and i find that most metals get absorbed more readily at that ph. So anyway I was actually trying to root prune with these baskets at first. They are simply pond pots from home depot. I dont even know if it would have worked but I do know i couldnt feed worth a shit with all them holes. One day i put a bag around the whole thing so water would not fall out, I was rushing so I forgot to take the bag off. Came bacc couple days later and noticed that all the other plants had bad yellowing. But the one with plastic on the bottom was green and healthy as hell. Long story short is i was looking at root pruning but now im sticking with this for awhile. I dont let my plants go any longer then 30 days in veg now anyway because of hight restrictions so by the time i finish Flowering the roots aren't that big. Have u tried spin out??

^^edit:I need to start thinking about future. I wanna be re-using my mix. How n the hell am i going to get salt build up out. How to restore soil...etc. You know im into that microbiology so imma be taking that route on this....Back to studying.
 
T

Toes

Guest
Got to love those 9 fingered sativa phenotypes.

Looks real good in there. We'll probably finish at the same time :harvest:

You might be able to bake your soil in the oven to re-use it. Or, find another way to get it to 175* to kill all life in there.
 
M

MediMary

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I bake my soil/, I first pour boiling water over it, then put it in the oven at 500 degrees. I don't use much soil, just for future moms, so I don't mind the extra work.
 
dextr0

dextr0

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^^^Why if I put money into everything? Plus the beneficial are killed. I just wonder why we kill everything we strive to build up.
 
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