Diagnosis? Excess Or Deficiency?

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DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

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There is a super high res deficiency chart in the link in my signature
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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Medium:
Coco + perlite 50/50 (3 plants)
AND
Coco + perlite + peat moss 30/30/30 (4 plants * THE 1 IN PIC *)

Using RO water (20ppm).. comes from tap does RO effect whether the water is hard or soft or does the filtration not change this?

I'm growing multiple strains (I know not a good idea especially for beginner). So I'm only going to be running plain PH water on the 2 showing this deficiency OR should I just do so on every plant UNLESS tip burn is not an issue? Can no explain the 1000-1600ppm general guidelines from the screenshot above?

1st. I don't follow ppm charts. It all depends on all of the factors like plant size health temp humidity etc.

The advice to lower feed strength after running a portion of fresh water to good runoff still stands.

Only thing. I am not experienced with coco and understand it requires more calcium and magnesium charged into it to prevent deficiencies. It holds on to these elements very tight. so if there is not enough of those elements available to the plant it could cause problems with cal mag or even phos and potassium. They all antagonize each other when out of balance.

Maybe a coco grower can finish helping with the proper nute regimine to restore health.
 
Ignignokt

Ignignokt

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I grow in coco indoors, my tap water is from a well - a pretty steady PH 5.4 / 250ppm TDS. That was sorta why Coco is just easier for me. You need to use a calcium supplement (I use Botanicare Cal-Mag plus, sparingly as it gooses the N just a bit). I happen to use the regular Canna line - and I use their online calculator to set light, normal and heavy feeding. I mix 4 gallons at a time since I have to tweak the formula for whatever I'm feeding depending on stage and observed needs of the strain. And different strains have different "happy" appearances. I usually check my mix with the Blue lab truncheon, just after I set the PH at 6.1. I use the root enzyme and root tonic as well. You can also use the root tonic in a power cloner.


from the photos - salt deposition on the ends is probably from missing feedings and letting the coco get too dry, or excessive transpiration (heat sources?) that pull lots of water (and nutrients) to the leaf and dump the salts there. Also a sort of clue the nutrient levels may be too much for this strain.

You need to apply nutrient until you get some runoff. If you never get runoff, then this could be salt buildup if you've been over-enthusiastic with the nutrients.

Otherwise, if the color rendition is right, appears almost like too much heat, overall. Starting to curl up ( Cupping ). If your light source is significant (1kw or more) and emitting strongly in near infrared , too close?

Usually, I see the girls curl their toes a bit after a too strong feeding ( downward tip curl ). That means chill it a bit on the nutrient concentrations. I back it off, usually preemptively by feeding again sooner with a somewhat lighter mix ( to a nice margin of runoff ) and the curl goes away in hours if I did it early in the day. Then I make a note about that strain. I usually run multiple of the same, so I can see it is indeed a strain reaction. And indeed, this is one of the hardest things to find out about, unless you just grow a strain - and watch her the whole cycle. You can find all kinds of genetics charts and associations and musing about what a strain would might expect, based on its heritage. I've found it all less useful than just growing it and figuring it out myself for the most part unless I can find local growers that know the strain I'm working with.
 
Last edited:
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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I grow in coco indoors, my tap water is from a well - a pretty steady PH 5.4 / 250ppm TDS. That was sorta why Coco is just easier for me. You need to use a calcium supplement (I use Botanicare Cal-Mag plus, sparingly as it gooses the N just a bit). I happen to use the regular Canna line - and I use their online calculator for to set light, normal and heavy feeding. I mix 4 gallons at a time since I have to tweak the formula for whatever I'm feeding depending on stage and observed needs of the strain. And different strains have different "happy" appearances. I usually check my mix with the Blue lab truncheon, just after I set the PH at 6.1. I use the root enzyme and root tonic as well. You can also use the root tonic in a power cloner.


from the photos - salt deposition on the ends is probably from missing feedings and letting the coco get too dry, or excessive transpiration (heat sources?) that pull lots of water (and nutrients) to the leaf and dump the salts there. Also a sort of clue the nutrient levels may be too much for this strain.

You need to apply nutrient until you get some runoff. If you never get runoff, then this could be salt buildup if you've been over-enthusiastic with the nutrients.

Otherwise, if the color rendition is right, appears almost like too much heat, overall. Starting to curl up ( Cupping ). If your light source is significant (1kw or more) and emitting strongly in near infrared , too close?

Usually, I see the girls curl their toes a bit after a too strong feeding ( downward tip curl ). That means chill it a bit on the nutrient concentrations.

Great post!
 
Trentski420

Trentski420

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Take a picture of the main stem also
1488289985098 972461451
1488290025541973420726


And I'm adding perlite to the pots I know roots died from exposure
 
Trentski420

Trentski420

394
43
1488313053059 2105721
I grow in coco indoors, my tap water is from a well - a pretty steady PH 5.4 / 250ppm TDS. That was sorta why Coco is just easier for me. You need to use a calcium supplement (I use Botanicare Cal-Mag plus, sparingly as it gooses the N just a bit). I happen to use the regular Canna line - and I use their online calculator to set light, normal and heavy feeding. I mix 4 gallons at a time since I have to tweak the formula for whatever I'm feeding depending on stage and observed needs of the strain. And different strains have different "happy" appearances. I usually check my mix with the Blue lab truncheon, just after I set the PH at 6.1. I use the root enzyme and root tonic as well. You can also use the root tonic in a power cloner.


from the photos - salt deposition on the ends is probably from missing feedings and letting the coco get too dry, or excessive transpiration (heat sources?) that pull lots of water (and nutrients) to the leaf and dump the salts there. Also a sort of clue the nutrient levels may be too much for this strain.

You need to apply nutrient until you get some runoff. If you never get runoff, then this could be salt buildup if you've been over-enthusiastic with the nutrients.

Otherwise, if the color rendition is right, appears almost like too much heat, overall. Starting to curl up ( Cupping ). If your light source is significant (1kw or more) and emitting strongly in near infrared , too close?

Usually, I see the girls curl their toes a bit after a too strong feeding ( downward tip curl ). That means chill it a bit on the nutrient concentrations. I back it off, usually preemptively by feeding again sooner with a somewhat lighter mix ( to a nice margin of runoff ) and the curl goes away in hours if I did it early in the day. Then I make a note about that strain. I usually run multiple of the same, so I can see it is indeed a strain reaction. And indeed, this is one of the hardest things to find out about, unless you just grow a strain - and watch her the whole cycle. You can find all kinds of genetics charts and associations and musing about what a strain would might expect, based on its heritage. I've found it all less useful than just growing it and figuring it out myself for the most part unless I can find local growers that know the strain I'm working with.
Thank you! Great info! Yes I just started charging my coco don't believe I did for that girl there can you tell me why 6.1 ph? I usually let it slide around whereever it falls between 5.8-6.2... And yes regarding the N in cal mag I was told not too use it in flower should I use very small amount say every other feeding?
The way I mix up my nutrient solutions is by following this chart for the RATIOS but dialing it back (I use 25% - 50% of these #s per feeding)
 
Ignignokt

Ignignokt

350
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If you look at the nutrient availability charts for coco, 6.1 is about as high as you should go when you are trying to maximize uptake. I do use the native well level ( ~5.5 ph ) for flush at times. I'd keep it between 5.8 and 6.1 but consistency is best unless you are seeing early symptoms that could be cured with a simple minor PH shift if it might improve a certain element availability. You will find many charts, stick with the ones built for coco.

As for cal-mag+, its only 2-0-0 and 3ml/gal is probably enough to keep the coco Calcium cations in balance ( Nice discussion on this point is here: https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...-of-mediums-and-affects-on-fertigation.63913/ ) In heavy feeders ( The White, a.k.a Triangle ) I've seen necrosis in growth tips due to lack of cal-mag in coco culture.

Calcium is not mobile (unlike some other elements where the plant can redirect a element or compound to a need elsewhere - think about the fall fade...) so if it isn't available when needed, well that shit ain't getting done. You lose your growth flow. Cannabis likes flow, as many here I think would confirm. Mistakes and nutrient shortages can cost days to a week or more. Excess enthusiasm with the chemistry looks great to the uninformed, those deep greens just seem to be the picture of health but I usually just see the curled toes and sigh.

The thing to love (IMHO) about coco is the blank substrate. The thing to know about coco is that it is not soil ( most will tell you, its hydro from most every aspect consideration ). So that means mastering PH control for growth flow and health of the roots and their microbial buddies. For ANYTHING to do with water, PH is an important discussion point. And I hope I don't have to mention, do not mix all the nutes together and add water. Water first, mixing each component in thoroughly. Look for precipitates at the bottom (tells you the mix is not staying in solution). Beware of fungus gnats from keeping the coco too wet, an inch of sand on the top side and some effort ( I've read some use pantyhose ) on the bottom to keep the bugs from getting established. Set out yellow sticky traps to monitor for their arrival.
 
Trentski420

Trentski420

394
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Thanks a lot good info. Another question if my run off is coming out 6.3ph when it went in at 5.8 do I just flush with 5.8 or do I try to correct the difference by say flushing with 5.7 or 5.6?
 
Trentski420

Trentski420

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So much contradicting info out there when it comes too coco.. I've just read that I should add 150-300ppm of cal mag to nute solution when irrigating ..
I'll take that with a grain of sand
 
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